Radiator Flush

[JFP in PA]

Maurice-

Jeff at Sunset can set you up with everything you need (there are a fair number of bits (brackets, hoses, etc.), but they apparently have done it so often they can pull up all the part from memory). We have done several of these, all using the OEM bits for later service reasons. Only thing different is what bumper cover you chose; some just use an "S" bumper from the boneyard, others use the GT2 or 3 cover, which is a lot more stylish in my opinion, and makes it easier to clean out the side radiators as well.

[kbrandsma]

K:

Nice work, and nice way to freshen up your Boxster!

Did you use all new parts for the center radiator install?

If so, do you have a complete parts list?

Did you use Pedro's copper Y tube solution or use stock parts? Again, part numbers and source would be appreciated.

Regards, Maurice.

I looked at Pedro's site but decided on purchasing the entire KIT with hoses and speed nuts etc.

I purchased this 3rd radiator KIT from Sunset.

Part no:

000-044-100-14

List Price - $516.61

Sunset price - $406.96

This KIT was for a GT3 Bumper. Depending on the bumper, a KIT might be different. The good folks at Sunset will help.

The installation was quite simple and straight forward. I used Loren's post for that.

Loren's DIY Link is HERE

I also added the Italian Air horns as mentioned on other posts by Loren and installed them above the center radiator. Here is a photo of the Airhorns after installation.

I used the PET diagram for parts and ordered all new attachment hardware from Sunset. Here is a Link to a previous thread that tells more. Loren as usual was extremely helpful.

Thanks Loren!

Edited April 9, 2010 by kbrandsma

[Loren]

kbrandsma - you are welcome.

BTW, that is a great price from Sunset. I paid more than that in 2001 :eek:

[1schoir]

Maurice-

Jeff at Sunset can set you up with everything you need (there are a fair number of bits (brackets, hoses, etc.), but they apparently have done it so often they can pull up all the part from memory). We have done several of these, all using the OEM bits for later service reasons. Only thing different is what bumper cover you chose; some just use an "S" bumper from the boneyard, others use the GT2 or 3 cover, which is a lot more stylish in my opinion, and makes it easier to clean out the side radiators as well.

Thanks for the lead. I have a RUF bumper that already has the cut-out, so I will probably use that bumper if I do this conversion.

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

I looked at Pedro's site but decided on purchasing the entire KIT with hoses and speed nuts etc.

I purchased this 3rd radiator KIT from Sunset.

Part no:

000-044-100-14

List Price - $516.61

Sunset price - $406.96

This KIT was for a GT3 Bumper. Depending on the bumper, a KIT might be different. The good folks at Sunset will help.

The installation was quite simple and straight forward. I used Loren's post for that.

Loren's DIY Link is HERE

I also added the Italian Air horns as mentioned on other posts by Loren and installed them above the center radiator. Here is a photo of the Airhorns after installation.

I used the PET diagram for parts and ordered all new attachment hardware from Sunset. Here is a Link to a previous thread that tells more. Loren as usual was extremely helpful.

Thanks Loren!

Thanks for the detailed info. It looks like I'll be ordering the kit from Sunset, as that is definitely a decent price.

Also appreciate the links and the info about the air horns. :thankyou: The Boxster horns are a little wimpy.

Regards, Maurice.

[Loren]

The Boxster horns are a little wimpy.

Even when they work! :lol:

[kbrandsma]

Are you going to leave your front license plate off now as it looks like it restricts air flow?

I haven't decided yet as to re-install the front plate or not. It is illegal in the State of Washington not to have one. Some keep their front plate in the passenger footwell and supposedly move it to the dash/windshield should they get stopped. I'm not sure how that is going to work?

[Sumflow]

I installed the oil heat exchanger today. It took four O rings.

To install you have to:

Drain water from engine block

I drained my oil and changed the oil filter

Place top in service position

Open engine compartment

Remove air tube from throttle body and air box

Remove J tube

Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)

Take care in removing vacuum tubes one on each side

Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 torx screws

Replace O rings

Install new 986S oil heat exchanger (tighten to 7lbs torque)

Installation is the reverse of removal

fill radiator

fill oil

Finished installation

On the 1997 (986) to install the oil heat exchanger:

You do not have to: "Drain water from engine block."

You do not have to: "Drain oil and changed the oil filter."

You do not have to: "Remove J tube."

You do not have to: "Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)."

You do not have to: "Remove "vacuum tubes one on each side."

1. "Place top in service position."

2. "Open engine compartment."

3. "Remove air tube from throttle body and air intake box on the left side."

4. "Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 hex screws."

5. "Replace O rings."

6. "Install new oil heat exchanger."

Installation is the reverse of removal.

The seals for the coolant break loose before the oil seals are free. Gently rock the heat exchanger before lifting it up and off and the coolant drains out of the heat exchanger without going into the oil. There is no need to mess with the oil, coolant drains, throttle body, J-tube and vacum lines, if you are just changing the heat exchanger . The "S," cooler looks different and will not fit.

[logray]

Also take care to keep the cooler in a level position when removing it. If you tilt it too much, you'll start pouring oil and coolant all over the place. Don't ask me how I know this. :-)

[JFP in PA]

I installed the oil heat exchanger today. It took four O rings.

To install you have to:

Drain water from engine block

I drained my oil and changed the oil filter

Place top in service position

Open engine compartment

Remove air tube from throttle body and air box

Remove J tube

Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)

Take care in removing vacuum tubes one on each side

Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 torx screws

Replace O rings

Install new 986S oil heat exchanger (tighten to 7lbs torque)

Installation is the reverse of removal

fill radiator

fill oil

Finished installation

On the 1997 (986) to install the oil heat exchanger:

You do not have to: "Drain water from engine block."

You do not have to: "Drain oil and changed the oil filter."

You do not have to: "Remove J tube."

You do not have to: "Detach throttle body and place aside (good time to clean it)."

You do not have to: "Remove "vacuum tubes one on each side."

1. "Place top in service position."

2. "Open engine compartment."

3. "Remove air tube from throttle body and air intake box on the left side."

4. "Remove oil heat exchanger - 4 hex screws."

5. "Replace O rings."

6. "Install new oil heat exchanger."

Installation is the reverse of removal.

The seals for the coolant break loose before the oil seals are free. Gently rock the heat exchanger before lifting it up and off and the coolant drains out of the heat exchanger without going into the oil. There is no need to mess with the oil, coolant drains, throttle body, J-tube and vacum lines, if you are just changing the heat exchanger . The "S," cooler looks different and will not fit.

As we currently have several dozen customers running the "S" cooler upgrade on base cars, I'm not sure why you posted this, but it is wrong on a couple of critical points:

1. Not draining the coolant will lead to a complete mess, and will most will likely get coolant into the oil passages. Even when the engine is off, the cooler if full of coolant (it is the highest point of the cooling system), containing a couple of liters of coolant, as well as a fair amount of residual oil. Pulling the cooler without draining the system first will dump the retained coolant out all over the area where the cooler bolts to the block and coolant will get into the oil passages, with residual oil getting all over the top of the area as well. Draining the system and using a plastic bag slid under the unit before removing it totally prevents any mess, or intermixing.

2. As mentioned, we have a lot of customers running the "S" cooler on base cars, they fit without any additional modifications, and are hands down one of the best upgrades you can do for the money. It is a very common update, even with engine rebuilders.

3. Several of the other "steps" the poster listed where of his choice (e.g.: changing the oil, pulling the throttle body, etc.) to do other maintenance while in there. While not required to swap out the cooler, they were being done in parallel with the swap.

[kbrandsma]

Thanks JFP

[JFP in PA]

Anytime.............................

[Sumflow]

2. As mentioned, we have a lot of customers running the "S" cooler on base cars, they fit without any additional modifications, and are hands down one of the best upgrades you can do for the money. It is a very common update, even with engine rebuilders.

It is not the same part.

[JFP in PA]

So what? The part number designates it was for the "S" Boxster or the Carrera's, but it still fits as the mount on the engine case is exactly the same on all three cars. It is taller than the base unit, but that is why you want to use it: It has more than twice the heat transfer capacity. It fits, without any other modifications, and it works.......

[Sumflow]

So what? The part number designates it was for the "S" Boxster or the Carrera's, but it still fits as the mount on the engine case is exactly the same on all three cars.......

Do these mounts look the same to anyone else?

[Sumflow]

..they fit without any additional modifications..

No modifications?

How do you seal the oil passages without modifications?

What do you do with that tube that does not stick out of the top of the 1997 (986) heat exchanger?

[kbrandsma]

Here is a photo of both of them side by side. The "S" oil cooler will fit and is just taller with more oil cooling capactity.

[JFP in PA]

..they fit without any additional modifications..

No modifications?

How do you seal the oil passages without modifications?

What do you do with that tube that does not stick out of the top of the 1997 (986) heat exchanger?

Very simple: That is the very early 2.5L oil cooler, that uses an adaptor plate (attached to the cooler in the photo) can be removed and moved over to the newer cooler, which is flat on the bottom, with openings for the oil and coolant. These adaptor plates were only used on the very earliest 2.5L motors. The later cooler will still fit, and this is exactly why most dealers seem to sell you more o-rings than you need to put it on most M96/97 cases; the extras are incase you have this adaptor plate and need to transfer it over, otherwise you only need four o-ring, two each in two sizes. The “how to” section on replacing the oil cooler on a M96 with an adaptor plate is even covered in the Bentley manual, shows the adaptor, and where the extra o-rings go..............

The very early 2.5L cars did not have a ventline running from the top of the oil cooler to the rear boot surge tanks (added early to mid 97 after problems with air becoming trapped in the cooler, which is the highest point of the cooling system, reducing its effectiveness). All replacement tanks have a fitting for this line, as do many cars built in 97. On a very early car, without the connection on the tank (which would be very rare as the tank without the fitting only exsisted for a very short time), you can simply plug the line on the cooler; but a far better move would be to update the surge tank to the new design, if one is not already in the car, to prevent air entrainment. To my knowledge, the tanks without the line for the oil cooler are no longer available.

And just a by-the-by, I've only ever seen two Boxsters with the adaptor plate, both 2.5L 97’s, which is still listed in the PET, but unnecessary on 99.9% of the Boxsters ever built......

I la maika'i nou.....................:)

Edited August 24, 2011 by JFP in PA

[Loren]

According to PET the "S" style oil cooler is a direct replacement and the only one currently sold.

BTW this "S" style cooler is the same cooler that is used on all 996 and 997-1 engines.

[coleta]

JFP, dumb question. By surge tanks you mean the coolant reservoir, right?

[JFP in PA]

JFP, dumb question. By surge tanks you mean the coolant reservoir, right?

Yes.

[coleta]

JFP, were the original oil coolers, the ones without the vent line, fitted with that bleeder valve assembly on top of the surge tank?

[JFP in PA]

Going on a population of two (the ones I have personally seen) yes, but with a caveat: I did not have access to the car's records prior to them coming into my shop, and both were multiple owner cars; so I cannot say if the car was factory original, or if they had been "updated" at some point.

Interestingly, the engine oil cooler on the very early cars (without a vent line), is almost a dead ringer for the trans oil cooler still used on the Tiptronic transmission; both mount via an adaptor plate, neither has the vent line. I have often wondered if they were the same unit, but have never had both in the shop at the same time to compare…………..

[Sumflow]

..they fit without any additional modifications..

No modifications?

How do you seal the oil passages without modifications?

What do you do with that tube that does not stick out of the top of the 1997 (986) heat exchanger?

Very simple: That is the very early 2.5L oil cooler, that uses an adaptor plate

This is the very early 2.5L oil cooler #996.107.025.05, that does not have an adaptor plate.

You can see in this picture the allen wrench removing one of the screws holding the heat exchanger onto the engine.

Here you can see the four short bolts removed just before the part is lifted from the block.

Here is the original heat exchanger removed. No plate, no vent. It bolts right to the block. This heat exchanger is much bigger than the new part and weighs a good deal more. I do not think it is made out of the same material. This one has probably provided good service for 14 years before leaking. These male oil risers is why you can remove the heat exchanger, and let the coolant run out without getting it in the oil. You can probably do the same thing with the new cooler if you unhook the vent, and let the coolant run down before cracking the exchanger.

This is what the engine looks like when the oil cooler is removed. Two seals in the block and two seals on the cooler. You can see how the part fits, held by four allen screws.

This is the view preferred by the previous poster.

This is the view posted by the previous poster of the revised block. His block has four seals, and his oil cooler has none. The new part does not fit on the early block.

Edited September 1, 2011 by Sumflow

[logray]

Which is why when using the newer cooler one will need the adapter plate, #35 and P/N 99610712900 MSRP $157.28 in the picture below.