Door Closed Sensor

[jporter]

I have a 01 turbo and I think I have a problem with the sensor that indicates when the driver side door is closed. It started with the window not staying slightly down when the door was open - the result was that the door would not close. Now the window does not make the small move up when the door is closed. Also the door lights stay on as if the door is not closed. And I can't lock the door with the remote and I get the single horn beep as if something is not closed.

I would appreciate any ideas or an indication of where the sensor is that indicates when the door is closed.

[Richard Hamilton]

It is one of the microswitches inside the door lock assembly.  

[jpflip]

I have a 01 turbo and I think I have a problem with the sensor that indicates when the driver side door is closed. It started with the window not staying slightly down when the door was open - the result was that the door would not close. Now the window does not make the small move up when the door is closed. Also the door lights stay on as if the door is not closed. And I can't lock the door with the remote and I get the single horn beep as if something is not closed.

I would appreciate any ideas or an indication of where the sensor is that indicates when the door is closed.

Yes Richard it can be a switch but:

Did you drain the battery lately?

First you should try to reprogram the window. Manually close each power window as far as it will go, then press the rocker switch for closing the window again(10 seconds). The limit position of the respective power window is now stored in the control module again.

[jpflip]

If the reprogramming is not working it can be a switch (like Richard is saying) in the door handle that is u/s (unserviceable) item # 14 on the picture...

Also look here Switch... and here: Window...

Edited March 27, 2010 by jpflip

[jpflip]

But there is also another possibility. The window regulator is known to fail and need to be replace if all the other option are not fixing your problem. Item #1 on this picture. 996 542 075 04. (I saw one on Ebay for around $140.00)

see this link:Regulator...

Edited March 27, 2010 by jpflip

[Richard Hamilton]

It won't be one of the switches in the door handle (which are replaceable).  The symptoms all point to the switch which detects that the door is closed.  This switch is inside the door lock assembly, and operates on a cam on the door latch.  It is possible to strip down the door lock and replace the microswitch.  Porsche only sell the complete assembly.  I have never done it myself, but I know two people who have.  I am told the switches are a standard size.

[jpflip]

It won't be one of the switches in the door handle (which are replaceable). The symptoms all point to the switch which detects that the door is closed. This switch is inside the door lock assembly, and operates on a cam on the door latch. It is possible to strip down the door lock and replace the microswitch. Porsche only sell the complete assembly. I have never done it myself, but I know two people who have. I am told the switches are a standard size.

May be your wright Richard but look at the beginning of his problem "It started with the window not staying slightly down when the door was open - the result was that the door would not close".... I have replaced my regulator on the passenger side and it fix the problem of the window not going down on opening of the door and of course I was not able to close the door because the window was too far up!

[jporter]

Thanks everyone for all of the replies. I have several areas to look at and I will try to resolve the issue.

I also have a problem with the gas gage showing full when the car is running and yes you can run out of gas. I disconnected and reconnected the battery hoping this would help solve the problem, but no luck. I did try to reprogram the window with the switch after I reconnected the battery without any luck.

I will let you know what I find.

[1schoir]

It won't be one of the switches in the door handle (which are replaceable).  The symptoms all point to the switch which detects that the door is closed.  This switch is inside the door lock assembly, and operates on a cam on the door latch.  It is possible to strip down the door lock and replace the microswitch.  Porsche only sell the complete assembly.  I have never done it myself, but I know two people who have.  I am told the switches are a standard size.

Richard:

Could you ask those two people exactly where they obtained the replacement microswitch, and maybe also get a part number from whatever supplier carries them?

This is a fairly regular problem that keeps popping up and it would be nice if the expensive assembly from Porsche could be avoided.

Regards, Maurice.

[RFM]

A recalibration should be done with a PIWIS diagnostic tool and a specific amount of fuel in the tank, Turbo and C4 Porsche's are sensitive to this issue by their specific tank/sender construction. The best way to prevent this issue is, after recalibration, always fill, the almost empty, tank up with a large amount of fuel. If for example the tank still contains only 10 liter of fuel, top up till full, never fill a small number of liters (5 or 10 liter) the sensor and the calculator will go wrong. Fill the tank with the engine and the ignition off.

[Richard Hamilton]

Richard:

Could you ask those two people exactly where they obtained the replacement microswitch, and maybe also get a part number from whatever supplier carries them?

This is a fairly regular problem that keeps popping up and it would be nice if the expensive assembly from Porsche could be avoided.

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice - I have previously asked both for a part number, but haven't had a reply.  One is a member on this forum, so hopefully they will see this and post.  They both got them from Maplins in the UK, which is something like Radio Shack in the US.

Jpflip - The same microswitch senses if the door is open or closed, so if it is sticking then it would cause all the problems described.  Whilst the erratic window movement might be the regulator, this wouldn't cause the interior lights to stay on, or prevent the car from locking.

[jporter]

Thanks again for your replies.

The following observation could help resolve what is causing the issue. When I initially notice the problem (window up when closing door), I found that while the door was open the widow would drop when I pulled the handle and rise when I released the handle as if the door was closed.

RFM, Thanks for the comments on the gas gage.

[gpt817]

I have a 01 turbo and I think I have a problem with the sensor that indicates when the driver side door is closed. It started with the window not staying slightly down when the door was open - the result was that the door would not close. Now the window does not make the small move up when the door is closed. Also the door lights stay on as if the door is not closed. And I can't lock the door with the remote and I get the single horn beep as if something is not closed.

I would appreciate any ideas or an indication of where the sensor is that indicates when the door is closed.

I had the same problem today on the driver side door. The source of the problem came from the connector of the door sensor inside the door panels behind the door lock/opener assembly.If it's loose, the windows wont go up and you cant lock the doors with the key and the door light will stay on.

All you got to do is remove the door panel, checked if the door sensor connector is tightly connected and that's it. I taped the connectors so that it wont move anymore. Constant opening and slamming the door over a period of time caused the loosening of the connectors. After that, I could lock and unlock the car with the remote and the windows would go all the way up when Im driving.

Edited March 28, 2010 by gpt817

[jpflip]

Jpflip - The same microswitch senses if the door is open or closed, so if it is sticking then it would cause all the problems described. Whilst the erratic window movement might be the regulator, this wouldn't cause the interior lights to stay on, or prevent the car from locking.

Good! I am learning something new here. I didn't know about the existence of weak switch in the lock assembly. I will keep and eye on this thread and also I will note the part# if you can get it. Thanks.

Edited March 28, 2010 by jpflip

[jporter]

I had some time to take the lock out of the door and I did confirm that the problem is the microswitch. The plunger had broken and the missing piece was inside the switch. I don't see a reliable way to fix the switch and it looks very unique. I will probably have to buy a new lock. I'll take some pictures of the switch and post them.

[jporter]

This is a photo of the door lock switch and a close-up of the broken plunger. The switch is made by Burgess, but I could not find it on their site.

Edited April 7, 2010 by jporter

[jpflip]

Wow! It is in fact a very unique switch.... Thanks for posting. Let's hope Richard will get an alternate number... This switch is within the door lock #14 on the picture, I guess. I was looking at the part# 8N1 837 015 C(the first one doesn't work) and it says genuine vw/Audi part. May be you can get this switch at a Volkswagen dealer.... Funny with the part# I just found a thread on Rennlist with a cheap sollution to your problem... Look here Switch

[jpflip]

Just to add the solution to this thread. Here's the fix from Garrett360: (hope I am allowed to do that, if not please remove this post)

"A quick update that might be helpful - I bought a $5 microswitch from Digi-key.com and successfully repaired the locking mechanism by dissecting a new switch, using the new plunger and seal. Fortunately the Porsche switch can be disassembled without breaking it apart - I broke apart the new switch and everything fit together perfectly. All is well, saving from having to buy the entire lock for this small switch!

I bought three switches since I was not sure which would work best. The first image below was the easiest to cut open and had the same plunger type as the original switch, and I used the blue seal, too. Its part number is:SW719-ND

The other switch I bought, could work as a replacement by epoxying it into place if an entire switch is required. Its part number is: SW291-ND"

Many thanks to Garrett360 for this job well done!!!

Edited April 7, 2010 by jpflip

[jporter]

This could help in finding the parts for the switch. The image on the left of the Burgess V4NC switch has a top section that looks like the top section of the door lock switch. I did not measure the door lock switch so I'm not sure they are the same. There was not a part number on the other side of the door lock switch as there is on the Burgess switch.

I called Audi yesterday to get a price on the door lock when I found out it was an Audi part and they were actually 50% more expensive than the Porsche dealer.

Edited April 7, 2010 by jporter

[jporter]

I replaced the door lock and the problem has been solved. I got a good price from Sunset (about 50% of local Audi dealer quote), but this is significantly higher than the fix that jpflip found. I looked for the Burgess switches that have the same top section as the door lock without any success. I'm guessing these would cost about $5 and you could just replace the top section of the door lock switch. I'll continue to look for the proper Burgess switch and will pass this on if I can find them.

Thanks again to everyone that made suggestions for the solution to my window/door problem.

[markdenham]

I had some time to take the lock out of the door and I did confirm that the problem is the microswitch. The plunger had broken and the missing piece was inside the switch. I don't see a reliable way to fix the switch and it looks very unique. I will probably have to buy a new lock. I'll take some pictures of the switch and post them.

Can someone tell me exactly how to take this lock out of the door please?

[jporter]

I just noticed this as I have been busy at work. I will post some notes over the weekend, but I have the following comment until I have time for a more detailed post.

You have to remove the inside door panel and this involve several bolts/screws that are and are not visible. The ones under the handle are the least obvious. There is also a sound/vapor liner that you will have to move to the side. You will then have to find someone with hand as small as a 3 year old, as nimble as a pianist and as strong as a 200 lb man to remove the handle and lock mechanism and then get it back in place.

As I said I'll post some details over the weekend.

[jporter]

The following are some details on replacing the door lock. I did not take any pictures of the removal and installation so I'll do my best to recall what I did.

There are 2 DIYs that will be very helpful (I know they would have helped me if I had looked at them before I did the work). Loren has posted a DIY on removing and installing the door panel and Richard Hamilton has posted a DIY on the door microswitches.

Verify the problem using Richard's DIY and remove the panel using Loren's DIY. I disconnected the battery as I was worried about the window moving when my hand was in the door – this is probably also prudent do to the location on the airbag. I found I could save the adhesive for the sound/vapor barrier by slowly peeling it back to gain access to the door lock/handle part of the door. This resulted in the adhesive staying attached to the sound/vapor barrier. You will see a small diagonal brace that might (depends on size of your hands) make it difficult to reach inside the door. I loosened the bottom bolt to make it easier to reach in the door. The edges are somewhat sharp so you will need to be careful – my wrist looked like I tried to commit suicide with a butter knife when I was done.

I decided to remove the outside door handle as I didn't want to disturb the widow support - don't know if this can be done without removing the handle. There are 2 nuts that hold the outside handle in place. There is a metal cup-like part that you will also have to remove from the inner side of the door.

The door handle is connected to the lock by a flat piece from the key lock part of the handle and a threaded part. The flat part slides out when you remove the handle. The threaded part is attached to the lock with a plastic part that flips up (I believe) to disengage from the threaded part. You will see that a section of the plastic piece is removed so that it can be engaged and disengaged from the threaded part. You will need this part so take your time.

There are some wires attached to the microswitch in the handle. I left this attached to the handle and disconnected the clip from the sheet metal under the handle. I recall that once the handle is free to remove you have to lift it slightly and remove it from the bottom. When done right it will not take any force to remove the handle.

The lock is attached with the two torx bolts that you can see on the outside frame of the door. There is an electrical connector and a mechanical connector. I disconnected these after I removed the bolts. I removed the lock through the door handle hole.

[BLUE EYEZ]

I have just come across this and wondered if anyone has taken the door lock and has any pictures. Did anyone find where you could buy the doner micro switches in the uk?

[987_RDC]

I will try and take some pics when I do the passanger side of my 996. The window down function (upon exit) has been intermittent and I want a perfect functioning ride.

Edit: The pics I tried to take of the switch didn't come out clear. The switch is quite tiny but can be removed and cleaned after getting the lock mechanism out.

Edited February 26, 2013 by 987_RDC