TT Rear Brake Pads/Clutch Accumulator

[911mike]

I bought new rear brake pads and went to install them yesterday but thought I'd check with TT owner's experience before tackling. I notice on the pads there are what appear to be weights or bearings of some kind sticking through the caliper. Are these supposed to be removed and re-installed on the new pads? The new pads don't have them but do have a flange and hole for them. Any other tips for changing these pads would be appreciated.

Also, how easy is it to replace the clutch accumulator? My pedal is stiff when cold, but as soon as the engine fires the pedal is good. Any ideas?

Edited March 22, 2010 by 911mike

[Loren]

Little if any differences from a standard 996 - the pics in the DIY Tutorial are from a 996TT.

Brake Pad Change Instructions

Clutch slave cylinder and accumulator replacement

or

Clutch Accumulator Replacement

[911mike]

Thank you very much. I have a warranty on the car and will see if the accumulator is covered.

[911mike]

Do these accumulators loosen up over time, or do they just go bad internally?

[RFM]

The build in membrane will leak internally after a few years.

[911mike]

Anyone want to 'loan' out their custom 27mm wrench? I will pay to rent it and ship it back.

[Loren]

Anyone want to 'loan' out their custom 27mm wrench? I will pay to rent it and ship it back.

[911mike]

Thanks, but doesn't this need to be ground down to fit?

[XLR82XS]

If planning to change your accumulator upgrade to the GT2 slave conversion kit that deletes it. EVO and SpeedTech both sell kits.

[deckman]

Who else has done this? Replacing the slave cylinder looks like a tough job. I have the replacement parts but am considering paying some else to do the swap.

[Mikelly]

I have done so many of them on my lift, that I can do them in about 30-45 minutes normally... The key to making sure NOT to ruin the water lines is in my DIY elswhere here... Use a LARGE freezer baggie with the zip closure and make sure as you unscrew the unit that you keep the bag up over the whole of the unit and slave cylinder. I've done these for a number of members from sixspeeds and rennlist. Deckman, doing the accumilator is cake. Doing the slave cylincer is the painfull part of the job. Expect 4-5 hours at an indy. If you tackle this one yourself, the key is to lower the front trans mount a little (I loosened the front bolts until they only had about 1/4 inch left holting the trans in place) to give you access to the bolts that hold the slave in place. When you go to install the new unit, make sure the rod sits properly in the cup as you seat th unit and start the bolts into their threads on the case of the transmission.

And to the other member above recommending the GT2 upgrade... This is not an "Easy" upgrade and is far more costly than just replacing the accumilator... Upgrading the GT2 bits alone is gonna run $1000, not to include labor, and I don't think you're gonna do this one on jackstands. The time to consider the GT2 hydraulic upgrade is when doing a clutch replacement while you have access to everything at the time. I've got the GT2 clutch hydraulic upgrade done on mine, and love it, but it is not simple to do and not something I'd recommend over the accumilator unless you have an upgraded clutch kit, normally required for upgraded horsepower.

Mike

Edited January 9, 2011 by Mikelly