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Recommended Posts

Posted

Is there a special tool or a better method to remove the brake rotors ? It took me a whole day to hammer out the front two, and I don't want to spend another day for the back two.

Please help

Posted

Hammering should not be required. Do you have the XZN bit for removing the calipers? The rotors will come off with a slight amount of prying.

Posted

The calipers were totally off, btw why do I need those bit to remove the calipers, I simply used a socket to remove those screws to hold the caliper. Trust me I really used all my muscle to hammer the back of the rotor to make it comes out.

Did I do anything wrong ? Please advise

Posted

The front calipers are held on with two bolts and a 21 mm socket is required, as you found out.

The rear calipers are held on with two XZN internal wrenching bolts so, you would need a bit for that. I just finished my fronts yesterday. I had to hammer them off as well, but it took about four blows on each with a rubber mallet. The manual mentions that as well, but if they are really seized as yours were, I would advise spraying some release oil around the hub first......In my case they were fairly rusty as the vehicles been driven on salty roads in the winter.....

No you didn't do anything wrong.....and there isn't a special tool other than the release oil......

I'll be doing my rears on Monday after I pick up an XZN bit or set.....So far I always seem to have one that's either too big or too small!!

Brgds,

Bob

Posted

just a FYI, BMW released this bulletin on beating on the rotors to get them off

it seems that beating on the rotors is making the wheel bearing fail prematurely

and want this puller used instead

REMOVE_ROTOR.pdf

  • Moderators
Posted

In the old days Porsche used rotors with 2 threaded holes in (between the wheel bold holes, downwards) all you had to do was screw in two long M8 bolts, one by one, the bolt ends hits the hub and pushed off the rotor, this of course was too easy to repeat.

Posted (edited)

In the old days Porsche used rotors with 2 threaded holes in (between the wheel bold holes, downwards) all you had to do was screw in two long M8 bolts, one by one, the bolt ends hits the hub and pushed off the rotor, this of course was too easy to repeat.

clapping.gifclapping.gifclapping.gif

Edited by phillipj
  • Admin
Posted

In the old days Porsche used rotors with 2 threaded holes in (between the wheel bold holes, downwards) all you had to do was screw in two long M8 bolts, one by one, the bolt ends hits the hub and pushed off the rotor, this of course was too easy to repeat.

I remember those! :rolleyes:

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Sounds strange.

I did front pads and rotors the other day on my 03 turbo, and the rotors almost fell off by themselves after the retaining screws were removed.

Same on my 996, just pulled them off by hand..

At most they should need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet.

Cheers

DS

Posted (edited)

Sounds strange.

I did front pads and rotors the other day on my 03 turbo, and the rotors almost fell off by themselves after the retaining screws were removed.

Same on my 996, just pulled them off by hand..

At most they should need a gentle tap with a rubber mallet.

Cheers

DS

I don't know where bfong, the original poster, is located. But, in the dry land of Australia, I think the different climate and atmospheric condition would make a significant difference.

Edited by airdiesel
Posted

+1 on the climate and corrosion!! I find any of the cars I work on that are summer driven come apart very easy. On the winter driven cars it's a completely different story. However, it goes without saying' if you have to use any force you certainly don't want to do any damage. If you have to hit a rotor hard enough to damage a wheel bearing you are using too much force. A rubber mallet or a dead hit hammer shouldn't do any damage to wheel bearings....IMHO...

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