Code P1124, P1126, P0446

[Car Cro]

Thanks, for your input

I talked to a friend and said you can always run a cigarette around intake and if it starts to pull smoke you have found it.

Says to start after the MAF, good thing I still know people who smoke :)

On a side note, I just found out yesterday that the rear spoiler is not working, could this be just a fuse, do you know how I can check easily?

Thanks again

[bar10dah]

Yes, *could* be a fuse. I've read up a little on this problem. I can't remember if it was a fuse or a relay, but some folks said the problem was with the fuse or relay that's in the trunk? You'll have to pull one of the carpets to get to it, just can't remember which one. Does your spoiler switch on the kickpanel work? When you click it up for 2-3 seconds, the spoiler should fully extend.

[Loren]

Thanks, for your input

I talked to a friend and said you can always run a cigarette around intake and if it starts to pull smoke you have found it.

Says to start after the MAF, good thing I still know people who smoke :)

On a side note, I just found out yesterday that the rear spoiler is not working, could this be just a fuse, do you know how I can check easily?

Thanks again

Rear spoiler fuse is D7 (15A) on the kickpanel - lower left.

[Car Cro]

Does your spoiler switch on the kickpanel work? When you click it up for 2-3 seconds, the spoiler should fully extend.

Don't know, never knew there was a switch as I could not find any on the dash as I thought if there was one, that is where it would be. I will have to go check.

Rear spoiler fuse is D7 (15A) on the kickpanel - lower left.

Thanks Loren

[1schoir]

...

On a side note, I just found out yesterday that the rear spoiler is not working, could this be just a fuse, do you know how I can check easily?

Thanks again

If that fuse (D7) is good, check the two relays in the rear trunk (i.e., on the left side of the trunk, behind the carpeted trim panel).

In the top row of relays in that location, the third relay (from the rear of the car) is for spoiler extension (relay #3). Just below it (in the bottom row), relay #9 is for spoiler retraction.

Regards, Maurice.

[Car Cro]

Funny I did not know until I posted this pic that there were numbers under the fuses :rolleyes:

I gather that the fourth bank from the top is D as I do not see letters, and the fuse is good.

I also found the little switch that manually raises and lowers the spoiler, which does work.

So I guess it is time to check the trunk to figure out the relays.

Now since there is a relay for each direction Up & Down, should I try raising my spoiler and see if it retracts?

BTW Maurice, when you say the left side do you mean the drivers side? Thanks

Sorry if I changed the subject a bit but appreciate the help and will be looking into the smoke test for the CEL P1126

[1schoir]

The left side is the driver's side (except in the UK, where the driver's side is on the right :eek: ). So, when you are standing behind the car, looking into the rear trunk, that relay tray is on the left, behind the carpeted trim.

Here is a photo where you can actually see the numbers above each row of fuses:

(Click on the photo for a better look).

Regards, Maurice.

[bar10dah]

Back to the original codes. :)

My new thought is that maybe I'm leaking air into my intake system via the rubber hose that plugs into the throttlebody, which is the outlet port for the EVAP canister, and identified by #14 in the pic below.

So, now to determine which valve could be the leak. That valve that's on the end of line #14 there, which "should" be a one way valve, flowing towards the throttle body? Or is it the valve that's actually connected to the top of the EVAP canister? Or another valve in the EVAP system? What would be your logical guess?

[logray]

Just clamp or plug off that hose and run it for a short while. I've done that before on that exact same hose to eliminate possible sources for leaks. The valve nearest the engine won't start clicking over until the engine is hot anyways, and a little excess vapour in the fuel tank is not a ticking time bomb if you are responsible about it.

Logically you can move forward depending on whether the code reappears or not.

[bar10dah]

Never thought about that, thanks Logray!

Clamping the hose won't do permanent damage? What did you use for a clamp?

Over the weekend, I did a 340 mile round trip. Not to mention the couple hundred miles I put on my car prior to my road trip. I didn't have a single code, either set or pending, when I returned. So, when I got home, I parked in my driveway and let her idle for five minutes. When I went back out and checked for codes, I had P1124 and P1126 pending. So, my air leaks must be related to when the EVAP system is doing it's pressure/leak checks during idle.

[logray]

You can clamp the hose with any standard auto hose clamp. I would only clamp it long enough to validate it is not the source of an intake leak.

Or you can also just unplug the check valve's electrical connector, it should be normally closed and hold vacuum. If it does not, then the check valve should be replaced.

[bar10dah]

Or you can also just unplug the check valve's electrical connector, it should be normally closed and hold vacuum. If it does not, then the check valve should be replaced.

Let me know if I'm off-track here. If that purge valve, #6 in the pic, is faulty and not fully closed when it should be, it might be the cause my intake air leaks. So, to test this theory, I unplug it. Next, I still get my normal DTCs. What does this tell me? Well, all it tells me is I have an intake air leak. I really didn't eliminate/validate that part or not. The leak could be from some other component in the system. So thinking the test worked, and I have a bad purge valve, I order a new one. But, since that test really didn't eliminate/validate anything, I might have replaced a good/working part. But, I wouldn't know that until after I spent the $100 on it and then still get my normal DTCs. So, since I really can't troubleshoot that component, but I want to eliminate it as a source for my leaks, might as well save myself the work of pulling the fenderliner twice and just buy/replace the part to begin with.

So, back to clamping the hose in the engine compartment, #14 in the pic on post 58. If I clamp that hose, and my codes reappear, the problem is somewhere else in the system. But if the codes are gone, then something in the EVAP system is faulty. Could be anything between the throttlebody and the EVAP canister. Heck, it could be the EVAP canister.

Sheesh... what to do next... maybe I'll just order both those parts and go from there. Another $200 and methodical guessing. Hope I have better luck this time. :)

Edited May 8, 2012 by bar10dah

[logray]

When you unplug the valve you can test it immediately to see if it is leaking. Either by smoke machine, propane, combination manifold vaccum gauge, etc.

[Car Cro]

Hi there

OK cleaned my MAF and found a hose that was not clamped, this hose actually expands and contracts when hitting the gas (I have not come across a hose like this before)

Well did not have a hose clamp so I used a ty-rap until I can get one.

Could this be the source of the P1126

Below is a pic

Edited May 13, 2012 by Car Cro

[bar10dah]

That doesn't appear to be the right hose. In fact, that looks like a radiator hose! :eek: Who owned that car before you?! If you know the person that did that, go smack them in the back of the head and tell them to stay away from your car.

The hose that should go there, the vent line for the AOS, is rigid so it will not collapse when negative pressure builds up.

Buy the correct hose here. Or, if you have a Porsche dealer locally, you can always pick it up from there. Just give them part# 996-107-146-00. And when you do get your new hose in, do NOT invite your "friend" over to help you put it in. ;)

Edited May 13, 2012 by bar10dah

[Car Cro]

:eek: Are you serious???

Three of us bought this car last year in order to flip it back here in Canada. Long story short, I never got to inspect the car, and person in charge of selling it never got a buyer. I decided to keep the car since it was not selling.

Few things I found which I did not like was the fact it had a 911 front bumper and a scrap left headlight after we were told it never was in an accident, we did have the frame checked out now, and it is ok (Just hate when people lie)

Now the CEL comes on (P1126) and I start to investigate the problems. Reading through this post I try to do a smoke test when I thought it was strange how this hose collapses and expands, now I find out it is the wrong hose :cursing: not a happy camper.

Looks like will be changing this ASAP S.O.B.

[bar10dah]

Replaced the vent line I mentioned in Post #58, the one with the valve on the end of it, underneath the driver's side intake manifold. Also replaced the purge valve in Post #62, the one on the top of the EVAP canister.

I didn't notice any difference in the purge valve between the new and old one. So appears I may have just replaced a good part. Speculation.

However, I was able to blow air both ways through the valve on the end of the old vent line. I'm guessing that's bad, as I can't blow air either way through the new vent line. Replaced that line and the next thing I noticed is where before I couldn't hear any mechanical noises when I activated "fuel evaporative valve" with Durametric, now I hear that valve on the end of that vent line clicking! So, progress. Not sure if this solves my problem, but progress.

I'll drive it for a few days and report back.

[logray]

Progress, we hope.

[bar10dah]

166 miles since replacing the tank vent valve (the one under the driver's side intake manifold) and still no CEL. Looking good!

Also, did ten 1/4 mile runs tonight. Best time was 14.867 @ 92.86. So much fun! Can't wait to get back out there again. :)

[bar10dah]

Still no CEL. But my fuel trims are a bit high. Especially the long term trims. They used to be around 1.0. But now...

I'm guessing the adaptation for the fuel trims don't happen very fast. How quickly should they come down? I've noticed a steady decrease in the short term trims the more I drive. I'm wondering if I should just disconnect the battery to reset the DME and see what happens.

Edited June 9, 2012 by bar10dah

[logray]

If you reset the battery it will go back to default, and the adaptation will start all over again so that doesn't get you anywhere unless you've made a repair and want to see if your repair affects the fuel trims.

The short term trims adjust more quickly, and if they go towards negative it shoudl pull the long term trims down over time as well.

These trims do change based on driving conditions.

You appear to be running lean - not quite to the adaption limit - but still a little high. The engine computer is having to add more fuel to compensate for the additional unmetered air coming into the system, i.e. intake air leak (or perhaps you have a warm air intake???)

[bar10dah]

Warm air intake? I have the stock intake system. Well, desnorkled.

So given your post, I may still have a leak somewhere... :(

[logray]

How many miles do you have since the last adaption reset? I've seen it can take hundreds of miles.

Warm air intake, like a fabspeed or evoX or K&N where the filter element just sits inside the engine bay.

Edited June 10, 2012 by logray

[bar10dah]

I've got about 300 miles since replacing the tank vent valve, which I think was the source of the intake air leaks that was causing my CEL codes. I guess I'll just keep driving it and see how it does.

Oh, thanks for the explanation. Nope, stock air filter element in the stock airbox. So, *ambient* air intake? ;)

[logray]

It's possible your engine just needs more fuel for whatever reason. Maybe tired fuel injectors or something. I think you might be past the problem point and are just in the hyper sensitive over analyzing stage... just drive it... check the trims again in a hundred miles or so and report back, I wouldn't worry. PM me if I'm not around since I've been really busy as of late.