*HELP* BoxterS 98, roof will not open

[adriano]

Recently I have tried to open my Boxster S soft top (roof) after the gelid winter down here in Amsterdam, to my surprise it did not work.

1.- I have the hand break and the hand break light on the d-board is lit

2.- When I open the latch to release the top (latch just above the rear mirror), the windows go down as they should.

3.- BUT... When I push the button on the dashboard to open the top. .. not a single movement or sound occur

I have been trying to find a fix to my problem in many forums, I have not found it.

I have checked the fuses, all are fine. The top used to function wonderfully till now.

I'd appreciate any help/advise (other than bringing the car to the dealer ;))

Adrian.

Edited March 10, 2010 by adriano

[Karl Davis]

Since your parking brake light is on, the most likely suspect is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess is that the latter switch is faulty, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s).

Believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established.

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened.

Also double check the two fuses (even if you have already visually checked them) by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay.

[peleke12]

Since your parking brake light is on, the most likely suspect is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess is that the latter switch is faulty, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s).

Believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established.

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened.

Also double check the two fuses (even if you have already visually checked them) by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay.

I have the same problem with a 2004 Boxster S - which are the two fuses? Only one is listed on the 'fuse map'. Thanks!

-Fred

[1schoir]

Since your parking brake light is on, the most likely suspect is one of the two microswitches that are located in the latch receptacle in the windshield frame.

There are two microswitches in the latch receptacle assembly. There is one on the left side of the assembly (has a large plunger that juts out when the latch is open). That one controls the 4" window drop that occurs immediately when you pull down the latch to open the top. There is another one on the right side of the assembly, and that is the one that activates the convertible top double relay.

My guess is that the latter switch is faulty, even though it may appear to be intact when you visually inspect it, and sometimes even when you test it with a multimeter. Specifically, take a close look at the solder joints where the leads attach to the plug. This can be hard to detect, so check it with a magnifying glass for hairline cracks in the solder joint and for corrosion. If necessary, heat up the connections with a soldering iron and flow a tiny bit of solder onto the suspect joint(s).

Believe it or not, the temperature (sun light, A/C blowing on it, etc...) can affect it to the point where the connection is broken and then re-established.

To gain access to the microswitch you have to remove the latch plate at the center of the windshield frame. Pop out the two little black plastic "eyes" by carefully prying them off with a very small flat blade screwdriver or borrow one of those "orange sticks" that women use on their fingernails to pry them out. Remove the small torx bolt that you will find under each one of the two eyes. Remove them and then pull down the latch plate carefully until you can see and access the wires for the switch and for the light. Unplug the wires and the latch plate will come off. You will find two fragile retaining clips that attach the switch to the underside of the latch plate. These are easy to break, so use a pair of small needle nose pliers to pull them off, very gently. You can reuse these if you are careful by squeezing the cross sections that are located at the center of the clips until they are flattened.

Also double check the two fuses (even if you have already visually checked them) by using a multimeter there as well, as one of them also provides power to the double relay.

I have the same problem with a 2004 Boxster S - which are the two fuses? Only one is listed on the 'fuse map'. Thanks!

-Fred

Fred:

The two fuses are B6 (allows power to the convertible top double relay)

and D3 (allows power to the electric drive motor).

Regards, Maurice.

[jimyboyle]

I have a similar problem with my 97 boxster, getting my hard top painted, went to pick it up and the roof will not go down. handbrake light is on, windows drop and when I press the switch there is a clunk from where the motor is. Let go the switch, another clunk, not a relay type noise, like hitting your knuckles on a desk. Ideas for the problem would be appreciated as I need to get the hardtop from the painters.

A suggestion for the best way to drop the top and repair it later, after I get the hardtop, would help.

jim

[chris4ski]

:help: trouble opening my top checked through diagram with meter and get stuck on 8 which says convertible top compartment lid micro switch is not working so simple its fixed to drive motor only its not where is it <_< can anyone help its a 1998 model :clapping:

[1schoir]

:help: trouble opening my top checked through diagram with meter and get stuck on 8 which says convertible top compartment lid micro switch is not working so simple its fixed to drive motor only its not where is it <_< can anyone help its a 1998 model :clapping:

Chris:

The 1997 to 1999 Boxsters had two microswitches which were later moved to INSIDE the driver's side (i.e., left side on U.S. cars) transmission (even though the factory manual says passenger side).

One of those two microswitches was the black lever microswitch, which is mounted on top of a bracket that surrounds the electric motor. The bracket is also covered by a black plastic cover with a slot on top of it where the black lever pops up. The electric drive motor for the convertible top is located directly in front of the third brake light, on the rear wall of the convertible top well.

Here is a photo of what it looks like:

If yours is a '98 and you don't see this lever, then there are two possibilities:

1. Either it's missing and someone has removed it before you got the car or,2. Someone converted the convertible top mechanism to the newer "B Version" and that location for the black lever microswitch is no longer needed (having been replaced by one of the two microswitches now inside the left transmission.

Take a photo of that are for us and let's see what's going on.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited July 1, 2010 by 1schoir

[pzinszer]

My 1998 Boxster top will not open - I have been following the earlier advise and I am now lookinjg for further guidance.

I have been following a list Maurice gave: check 2 fuses,handbrake shows and windows lower, check lights on dash and I got to the stage of checking the motor - so using a drill I raised the clamshell to the service position, then reinserted the cables and using the dash switch the conv. roof lowered (I also tried to reverse it while in mid course and it would not reopen) - so the motor closed the top. The dash convertible top light is still on (my thought is that it doesn't know it is closed) and I put a shim under the lever on the motor at the clamshell). So, I then removed the micro switch on the top of the windshield - it looks good - Any advice would be appreciated, can I test the switch?

Thanks.

Paul

[1schoir]

My 1998 Boxster top will not open - I have been following the earlier advise and I am now lookinjg for further guidance.

I have been following a list Maurice gave: check 2 fuses,handbrake shows and windows lower, check lights on dash and I got to the stage of checking the motor - so using a drill I raised the clamshell to the service position, then reinserted the cables and using the dash switch the conv. roof lowered (I also tried to reverse it while in mid course and it would not reopen) - so the motor closed the top. The dash convertible top light is still on (my thought is that it doesn't know it is closed) and I put a shim under the lever on the motor at the clamshell). So, I then removed the micro switch on the top of the windshield - it looks good - Any advice would be appreciated, can I test the switch?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul:

On '97's to '99's, what happens sometimes (because of the design of the V-levers and the half-moon gear inside the transmissions and/or the location of the B-Pillar microswitch) is that the V-levers "over-rotate" and the system jams and won't start to operate.

To determine if you are in this category, check to see if the dashboard lights (or any other lights) dim when you press the "top open" switch. If so, that is what is going on.

This may also be what is causing your "top open" idiot light to remain on.

With the shim under the clamshell lid, did that result in the "top open" light going out at the end of the open cycle only (i.e., not the same result at the end of the closed cycle)?

If your lights don't dim when you press the button, you could try to manually pull/push the little silver lever on the B-Pillar microswitch as that should reverse the rotation of the V-levers (if they are not over-rotated).

Also, you mention "the" microswitch in latch assembly. Note that there are two microswitches inside that assembly and that it is sometimes difficult to see whether the one with the parallel strips has a hairline crack. A magnifying glass can help or you can test it with a multimeter. I don't think that your problem is being caused by either of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly. One lowers the windows and the other allows power to be supplied to the electric motor.

(Sorry for the late reply, but my computer crashed and was out of action for a few days).

Regards, Maurice.

Edited July 14, 2010 by 1schoir

[alanfdawson]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

[1schoir]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

The juddering took place when the front edge of the soft top was vertical (sticking up in the air ) . i stopped depressing the switch . got out of the car and lift the clam shell manually upwards. I was surprised it could be lifted like that . Then started the switch operation again and the soft top fully retracted down . During that action there was two load expensive sounding clunks but the top still went down . The motor then did not operate from the dash board switch . On inspection after manually lifting the clam up I noticed that both struts were detached at the ball socket end and no sign of the protruding balls. I suspect they have sheared off. but there is no sign of debris.

Your advice would be very much appreciated , because booking this into a main dealer (knowing them) could prove expensive .

Thanks

Alan

[1schoir]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

The juddering took place when the front edge of the soft top was vertical (sticking up in the air ) . i stopped depressing the switch . got out of the car and lift the clam shell manually upwards. I was surprised it could be lifted like that . Then started the switch operation again and the soft top fully retracted down . During that action there was two load expensive sounding clunks but the top still went down . The motor then did not operate from the dash board switch . On inspection after manually lifting the clam up I noticed that both struts were detached at the ball socket end and no sign of the protruding balls. I suspect they have sheared off. but there is no sign of debris.

Your advice would be very much appreciated , because booking this into a main dealer (knowing them) could prove expensive .

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

Was the top fully operational before this event, i.e., did it go up and down through its entire cycle normally, including the clamshell going up and back and then coming forward and down?

How long have you had the car?

Again, the only reason you were able to pick up the clamshell was because the black "hydraulic" pushrods were either disconnected or broken apart.

The juddering your top experienced may have been caused by one of the front pushrods being disconnected or broken off. The canvas and frame part of the top will still work with only one of the front pushrods connected, but one side of the top will lag behind or lurch forward during operation.

Check to make sure that your front pushrods are intact, that they are still attached to the front end of the V-levers and the plastic ball cups at the end of the front pushrods are not cracked apart or exploded. The plastic ball cups will be red in color if they are original, or white if they have been replaced.

What is a little puzzling is why you heard two loud clunks if the black pushrods were already disconnected from the V-Lever, unless they were dangling and got jammed against another part as the V-lever was rotating and they then let go suddenly.

Here is a photo of what the V-lever and black "hydraulic" pushrod is supposed to look like when the clamshell is in the rearmost (45 degree) position:

The only place that any broken pieces may end up would be in the foam drain tray, or if the pieces are small enough, they may end up in the drain hole almost directly below the V-lever on the horizontal surface of the drain tray. If your clamshell was operating normally before this event, you should be able to find the steel balls in those areas or, they might still be pressed in to the black hydraulic pushrods.

Here is a photo of the front pushrod with the red plastic ball cup at the end. That red plastic ball cup is supposed to be pressed onto a steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar:

Also, after you have determined what pieces may be broken or missing, you will have to establish whether your electric motor is spinning when you depress the switch on the dashboard and then determine whether your inner cables (inside the black vinyl sheaths) are still intact and turning the worm gear at the rear of each transmission.

I'll try to help you along the way. If you can post some photos of your V-levers, black hydraulic pushrods, front pushrods, and black vinyl sheathed cables, they may answer some questions.

Regards, Maurice.

[pzinszer]

My 1998 Boxster top will not open - I have been following the earlier advise and I am now lookinjg for further guidance.

I have been following a list Maurice gave: check 2 fuses,handbrake shows and windows lower, check lights on dash and I got to the stage of checking the motor - so using a drill I raised the clamshell to the service position, then reinserted the cables and using the dash switch the conv. roof lowered (I also tried to reverse it while in mid course and it would not reopen) - so the motor closed the top. The dash convertible top light is still on (my thought is that it doesn't know it is closed) and I put a shim under the lever on the motor at the clamshell). So, I then removed the micro switch on the top of the windshield - it looks good - Any advice would be appreciated, can I test the switch?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul:

On '97's to '99's, what happens sometimes (because of the design of the V-levers and the half-moon gear inside the transmissions and/or the location of the B-Pillar microswitch) is that the V-levers "over-rotate" and the system jams and won't start to operate.

To determine if you are in this category, check to see if the dashboard lights (or any other lights) dim when you press the "top open" switch. If so, that is what is going on.

This may also be what is causing your "top open" idiot light to remain on.

With the shim under the clamshell lid, did that result in the "top open" light going out at the end of the open cycle only (i.e., not the same result at the end of the closed cycle)?

If your lights don't dim when you press the button, you could try to manually pull/push the little silver lever on the B-Pillar microswitch as that should reverse the rotation of the V-levers (if they are not over-rotated).

Also, you mention "the" microswitch in latch assembly. Note that there are two microswitches inside that assembly and that it is sometimes difficult to see whether the one with the parallel strips has a hairline crack. A magnifying glass can help or you can test it with a multimeter. I don't think that your problem is being caused by either of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly. One lowers the windows and the other allows power to be supplied to the electric motor.

(Sorry for the late reply, but my computer crashed and was out of action for a few days).

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice

Thanks for the advise and encouragement.

- the lights do not dim when the 'top open' switch is pushed.

- using a shim had no affect that I noticed, the top open light remained on.

- please assist with directions to the B-Pillar microswitch(s) I am not familiar with them - I will try to reverse the process.

Two other events have presented themselves - I was successful 2 times opening the clamshell to the service position (and then closed it using the motor)on the 3rd attempt there was resistance when up about 1" and I did not force it, continuing to use the drill I returned it to the closed position. You mention possible over rotation with the V levers and I wonder if this might be a symptom.

Also, reexamining the latch assembly micro switches, it appeared that one end of the column of the switch that rotates was backed out of it's position (due to inadequate material on the bottom to keep it in - a little ridge) - I took it apart and put a slight twist in the metal band/spring that holds it in place and put it back.I believe that it is physically functioning as intended - I have not tested the circuit.

Any ideas from here?

(sorry for the long delay in responding - my computer has been down)

Paul

[1schoir]

My 1998 Boxster top will not open - I have been following the earlier advise and I am now lookinjg for further guidance.

I have been following a list Maurice gave: check 2 fuses,handbrake shows and windows lower, check lights on dash and I got to the stage of checking the motor - so using a drill I raised the clamshell to the service position, then reinserted the cables and using the dash switch the conv. roof lowered (I also tried to reverse it while in mid course and it would not reopen) - so the motor closed the top. The dash convertible top light is still on (my thought is that it doesn't know it is closed) and I put a shim under the lever on the motor at the clamshell). So, I then removed the micro switch on the top of the windshield - it looks good - Any advice would be appreciated, can I test the switch?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul:

On '97's to '99's, what happens sometimes (because of the design of the V-levers and the half-moon gear inside the transmissions and/or the location of the B-Pillar microswitch) is that the V-levers "over-rotate" and the system jams and won't start to operate.

To determine if you are in this category, check to see if the dashboard lights (or any other lights) dim when you press the "top open" switch. If so, that is what is going on.

This may also be what is causing your "top open" idiot light to remain on.

With the shim under the clamshell lid, did that result in the "top open" light going out at the end of the open cycle only (i.e., not the same result at the end of the closed cycle)?

If your lights don't dim when you press the button, you could try to manually pull/push the little silver lever on the B-Pillar microswitch as that should reverse the rotation of the V-levers (if they are not over-rotated).

Also, you mention "the" microswitch in latch assembly. Note that there are two microswitches inside that assembly and that it is sometimes difficult to see whether the one with the parallel strips has a hairline crack. A magnifying glass can help or you can test it with a multimeter. I don't think that your problem is being caused by either of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly. One lowers the windows and the other allows power to be supplied to the electric motor.

(Sorry for the late reply, but my computer crashed and was out of action for a few days).

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice

Thanks for the advise and encouragement.

- the lights do not dim when the 'top open' switch is pushed.

- using a shim had no affect that I noticed, the top open light remained on.

- please assist with directions to the B-Pillar microswitch(s) I am not familiar with them - I will try to reverse the process.

Two other events have presented themselves - I was successful 2 times opening the clamshell to the service position (and then closed it using the motor)on the 3rd attempt there was resistance when up about 1" and I did not force it, continuing to use the drill I returned it to the closed position. You mention possible over rotation with the V levers and I wonder if this might be a symptom.

Also, reexamining the latch assembly micro switches, it appeared that one end of the column of the switch that rotates was backed out of it's position (due to inadequate material on the bottom to keep it in - a little ridge) - I took it apart and put a slight twist in the metal band/spring that holds it in place and put it back.I believe that it is physically functioning as intended - I have not tested the circuit.

Any ideas from here?

(sorry for the long delay in responding - my computer has been down)

Paul

Paul:

Try progressively adding shims that are 1/4 inch thick, one at a time, until you get the light to go out.

The B-pillar microswitch is located inside of the half-cylindrical carpeted plastic panel that is behind your left shoulder as you sit in the driver's seat.

You have to remove the panel to get a good look at it.

From the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a Phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The 8mm bolt at the top is located near the forward driver's side corner of the carpet/foam engine compartment cover. The Phillips screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. To completely remove the panel, disconnect the defroster hook up near the base of the panel, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch about 2 inches down from the knuckle of the B-Pillar along the driver's side door jamb.

Here is a photo of the B-Pillar microswitch behind the panel, with the panel just pushed aside after being unbolted:

In this photo, the red arrow points to the little silver lever that makes contact with the base of the B-Pillar frame...The yellow arrow points to the one little torx screw that is holding it in place...The white circle shows the approximate location of the 8mm bolt that must be loosened.

From the description you gave of the repair you have made to one of the microswitches inside the latch assembly, it sounds as though you may have resolved the problem with that switch (which allows power to flow to the electric motor).

Also, inspect the guide channels in which the lowest part of one of the arms (on each side) supporting the clamshell to make sure that they are properly lubricated. If those channels are completely dry, the movement of the clamshell will be impeded.

Here is a photo of one guide channel (located above the V-lever):

Note that the steel ball at the base of the arm supporting the clamshell has been pulled out and you can now see the black plastic slider that the steel ball rides on. White lithium grease or Krytox is a good lube here).

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

The juddering took place when the front edge of the soft top was vertical (sticking up in the air ) . i stopped depressing the switch . got out of the car and lift the clam shell manually upwards. I was surprised it could be lifted like that . Then started the switch operation again and the soft top fully retracted down . During that action there was two load expensive sounding clunks but the top still went down . The motor then did not operate from the dash board switch . On inspection after manually lifting the clam up I noticed that both struts were detached at the ball socket end and no sign of the protruding balls. I suspect they have sheared off. but there is no sign of debris.

Your advice would be very much appreciated , because booking this into a main dealer (knowing them) could prove expensive .

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

Was the top fully operational before this event, i.e., did it go up and down through its entire cycle normally, including the clamshell going up and back and then coming forward and down?

How long have you had the car?

Again, the only reason you were able to pick up the clamshell was because the black "hydraulic" pushrods were either disconnected or broken apart.

The juddering your top experienced may have been caused by one of the front pushrods being disconnected or broken off. The canvas and frame part of the top will still work with only one of the front pushrods connected, but one side of the top will lag behind or lurch forward during operation.

Check to make sure that your front pushrods are intact, that they are still attached to the front end of the V-levers and the plastic ball cups at the end of the front pushrods are not cracked apart or exploded. The plastic ball cups will be red in color if they are original, or white if they have been replaced.

What is a little puzzling is why you heard two loud clunks if the black pushrods were already disconnected from the V-Lever, unless they were dangling and got jammed against another part as the V-lever was rotating and they then let go suddenly.

Here is a photo of what the V-lever and black "hydraulic" pushrod is supposed to look like when the clamshell is in the rearmost (45 degree) position:

The only place that any broken pieces may end up would be in the foam drain tray, or if the pieces are small enough, they may end up in the drain hole almost directly below the V-lever on the horizontal surface of the drain tray. If your clamshell was operating normally before this event, you should be able to find the steel balls in those areas or, they might still be pressed in to the black hydraulic pushrods.

Here is a photo of the front pushrod with the red plastic ball cup at the end. That red plastic ball cup is supposed to be pressed onto a steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar:

Also, after you have determined what pieces may be broken or missing, you will have to establish whether your electric motor is spinning when you depress the switch on the dashboard and then determine whether your inner cables (inside the black vinyl sheaths) are still intact and turning the worm gear at the rear of each transmission.

I'll try to help you along the way. If you can post some photos of your V-levers, black hydraulic pushrods, front pushrods, and black vinyl sheathed cables, they may answer some questions.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice

Really appreciate your help

I'll take some photos today and attach them with more comments on my further invetigation

Regards

Alan

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice

Really appreciate your help

I'll take some photos today and attach them with more comments on my further invetigation

Regards

Alan

Alan:

Sounds good.

When you take the photos of the black vinyl sheathed drive cables (coming out of each side of the electric motor), make sure they are close-ups so that we can determine which version of the cables you have.

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

The juddering took place when the front edge of the soft top was vertical (sticking up in the air ) . i stopped depressing the switch . got out of the car and lift the clam shell manually upwards. I was surprised it could be lifted like that . Then started the switch operation again and the soft top fully retracted down . During that action there was two load expensive sounding clunks but the top still went down . The motor then did not operate from the dash board switch . On inspection after manually lifting the clam up I noticed that both struts were detached at the ball socket end and no sign of the protruding balls. I suspect they have sheared off. but there is no sign of debris.

Your advice would be very much appreciated , because booking this into a main dealer (knowing them) could prove expensive .

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

Was the top fully operational before this event, i.e., did it go up and down through its entire cycle normally, including the clamshell going up and back and then coming forward and down?

How long have you had the car?

Again, the only reason you were able to pick up the clamshell was because the black "hydraulic" pushrods were either disconnected or broken apart.

The juddering your top experienced may have been caused by one of the front pushrods being disconnected or broken off. The canvas and frame part of the top will still work with only one of the front pushrods connected, but one side of the top will lag behind or lurch forward during operation.

Check to make sure that your front pushrods are intact, that they are still attached to the front end of the V-levers and the plastic ball cups at the end of the front pushrods are not cracked apart or exploded. The plastic ball cups will be red in color if they are original, or white if they have been replaced.

What is a little puzzling is why you heard two loud clunks if the black pushrods were already disconnected from the V-Lever, unless they were dangling and got jammed against another part as the V-lever was rotating and they then let go suddenly.

Here is a photo of what the V-lever and black "hydraulic" pushrod is supposed to look like when the clamshell is in the rearmost (45 degree) position:

The only place that any broken pieces may end up would be in the foam drain tray, or if the pieces are small enough, they may end up in the drain hole almost directly below the V-lever on the horizontal surface of the drain tray. If your clamshell was operating normally before this event, you should be able to find the steel balls in those areas or, they might still be pressed in to the black hydraulic pushrods.

Here is a photo of the front pushrod with the red plastic ball cup at the end. That red plastic ball cup is supposed to be pressed onto a steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar:

Also, after you have determined what pieces may be broken or missing, you will have to establish whether your electric motor is spinning when you depress the switch on the dashboard and then determine whether your inner cables (inside the black vinyl sheaths) are still intact and turning the worm gear at the rear of each transmission.

I'll try to help you along the way. If you can post some photos of your V-levers, black hydraulic pushrods, front pushrods, and black vinyl sheathed cables, they may answer some questions.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice

Really appreciate your help

I'll take some photos today and attach them with more comments on my further invetigation

Regards

Alan

Hi Maurice

I took these photos - it shows the spring struts have clearly parted company with the v lever where I guess it is supposed to connect to the ball which screws into the v lever. There is a threaded bolt hole in one end of the v lever where the ball screws in - is that right ? The balls are nowhere to be seen (yet)

Haven't been able to take photos of cables yet cause I cant find them , the canvas of the hood seems to restrict the camera positions

Thanks

Alan

Alan

[pzinszer]

My 1998 Boxster top will not open - I have been following the earlier advise and I am now lookinjg for further guidance.

I have been following a list Maurice gave: check 2 fuses,handbrake shows and windows lower, check lights on dash and I got to the stage of checking the motor - so using a drill I raised the clamshell to the service position, then reinserted the cables and using the dash switch the conv. roof lowered (I also tried to reverse it while in mid course and it would not reopen) - so the motor closed the top. The dash convertible top light is still on (my thought is that it doesn't know it is closed) and I put a shim under the lever on the motor at the clamshell). So, I then removed the micro switch on the top of the windshield - it looks good - Any advice would be appreciated, can I test the switch?

Thanks.

Paul

Paul:

On '97's to '99's, what happens sometimes (because of the design of the V-levers and the half-moon gear inside the transmissions and/or the location of the B-Pillar microswitch) is that the V-levers "over-rotate" and the system jams and won't start to operate.

To determine if you are in this category, check to see if the dashboard lights (or any other lights) dim when you press the "top open" switch. If so, that is what is going on.

This may also be what is causing your "top open" idiot light to remain on.

With the shim under the clamshell lid, did that result in the "top open" light going out at the end of the open cycle only (i.e., not the same result at the end of the closed cycle)?

If your lights don't dim when you press the button, you could try to manually pull/push the little silver lever on the B-Pillar microswitch as that should reverse the rotation of the V-levers (if they are not over-rotated).

Also, you mention "the" microswitch in latch assembly. Note that there are two microswitches inside that assembly and that it is sometimes difficult to see whether the one with the parallel strips has a hairline crack. A magnifying glass can help or you can test it with a multimeter. I don't think that your problem is being caused by either of the two microswitches inside the latch assembly. One lowers the windows and the other allows power to be supplied to the electric motor.

(Sorry for the late reply, but my computer crashed and was out of action for a few days).

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice

Thanks for the advise and encouragement.

- the lights do not dim when the 'top open' switch is pushed.

- using a shim had no affect that I noticed, the top open light remained on.

- please assist with directions to the B-Pillar microswitch(s) I am not familiar with them - I will try to reverse the process.

Two other events have presented themselves - I was successful 2 times opening the clamshell to the service position (and then closed it using the motor)on the 3rd attempt there was resistance when up about 1" and I did not force it, continuing to use the drill I returned it to the closed position. You mention possible over rotation with the V levers and I wonder if this might be a symptom.

Also, reexamining the latch assembly micro switches, it appeared that one end of the column of the switch that rotates was backed out of it's position (due to inadequate material on the bottom to keep it in - a little ridge) - I took it apart and put a slight twist in the metal band/spring that holds it in place and put it back.I believe that it is physically functioning as intended - I have not tested the circuit.

Any ideas from here?

(sorry for the long delay in responding - my computer has been down)

Paul

Paul:

Try progressively adding shims that are 1/4 inch thick, one at a time, until you get the light to go out.

The B-pillar microswitch is located inside of the half-cylindrical carpeted plastic panel that is behind your left shoulder as you sit in the driver's seat.

You have to remove the panel to get a good look at it.

From the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a Phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The 8mm bolt at the top is located near the forward driver's side corner of the carpet/foam engine compartment cover. The Phillips screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. To completely remove the panel, disconnect the defroster hook up near the base of the panel, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch about 2 inches down from the knuckle of the B-Pillar along the driver's side door jamb.

Here is a photo of the B-Pillar microswitch behind the panel, with the panel just pushed aside after being unbolted:

In this photo, the red arrow points to the little silver lever that makes contact with the base of the B-Pillar frame...The yellow arrow points to the one little torx screw that is holding it in place...The white circle shows the approximate location of the 8mm bolt that must be loosened.

From the description you gave of the repair you have made to one of the microswitches inside the latch assembly, it sounds as though you may have resolved the problem with that switch (which allows power to flow to the electric motor).

Also, inspect the guide channels in which the lowest part of one of the arms (on each side) supporting the clamshell to make sure that they are properly lubricated. If those channels are completely dry, the movement of the clamshell will be impeded.

Here is a photo of one guide channel (located above the V-lever):

Note that the steel ball at the base of the arm supporting the clamshell has been pulled out and you can now see the black plastic slider that the steel ball rides on. White lithium grease or Krytox is a good lube here).

Regards, Maurice.

Maurice

Following your instructions, I:

- inserted shims, one at a time, got up to 3 (together they measured +5/8") this had no effect on 'top down' dash light - using my finger, I could push the lever into the case as far as it would go, again with no effect.

- I found the B-Pillar microswitch, probed it some, but did not remove or adjust it (it wasn't apparent how it got set/adjusted, so I was concerned about changing it's present 'setting'. (however, the metal probe does hit the top of the plastic case, so I doubt that it could be adjusted any more in that direction).

- I greased the both guides - they were absolutely dry.

Two items

- earlier you ask me if the 'top down' light dimmed when the switch was pushed (it didn't) - I did this without the cables inserted into the motor - I did not hear the motor (I did listen) - should I try this again with the cables attached to the motor(did I say that I had to cut the metal ferrils off the end of both cables, due to the plastic coating expanding and covering the end of the cables).

- while greasing the slides I noticed differences between the sides of the clamshell.

Passenger side: external metal work meets well, inside the hydraulic strut shows about +1/2" of bright metal in addition to the black painted metal, and the black cable is slack.

Drivers side: externally the clamshell is about 1/4" above other metal, internally, the hydraulic strut shows no bright metal, the black cable is tight.

Again thank you.

Regards, Paul

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice

I took these photos - it shows the spring struts have clearly parted company with the v lever where I guess it is supposed to connect to the ball which screws into the v lever. There is a threaded bolt hole in one end of the v lever where the ball screws in - is that right ? The balls are nowhere to be seen (yet)

Haven't been able to take photos of cables yet cause I cant find them , the canvas of the hood seems to restrict the camera positions

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The photos did not post. Perhaps you could post them again.

You can get a good photo of the cables where they first exit the sides of the electric motor. With the top in the service position, it gives you good access to the convertible top well and good access to the V-levers, etc...

Regards, Maurice.

[1schoir]

Maurice

Following your instructions, I:

- inserted shims, one at a time, got up to 3 (together they measured +5/8") this had no effect on 'top down' dash light - using my finger, I could push the lever into the case as far as it would go, again with no effect.

- I found the B-Pillar microswitch, probed it some, but did not remove or adjust it (it wasn't apparent how it got set/adjusted, so I was concerned about changing it's present 'setting'. (however, the metal probe does hit the top of the plastic case, so I doubt that it could be adjusted any more in that direction).

- I greased the both guides - they were absolutely dry.

Two items

- earlier you ask me if the 'top down' light dimmed when the switch was pushed (it didn't) - I did this without the cables inserted into the motor - I did not hear the motor (I did listen) - should I try this again with the cables attached to the motor(did I say that I had to cut the metal ferrils off the end of both cables, due to the plastic coating expanding and covering the end of the cables).

- while greasing the slides I noticed differences between the sides of the clamshell.

Passenger side: external metal work meets well, inside the hydraulic strut shows about +1/2" of bright metal in addition to the black painted metal, and the black cable is slack.

Drivers side: externally the clamshell is about 1/4" above other metal, internally, the hydraulic strut shows no bright metal, the black cable is tight.

Again thank you.

Regards, Paul

Paul:

Try adding two or three more shims to see if you can get the light to go out. Pressing on the black lever microswitch does not give you the same effect because there is an "after-running time" (which is what you are trying to trigger earlier) and because it's interconnected wit the position of the lever on the B-pillar microswitch and, indirectly, the V-levers.

The only adjustment possible at the B-Pillar microswitch is by altering the bend of the small silver arm that contacts the frame of the B-Pillar so that it contacts it sooner or delays the contact until the top frame is further along its arc of travel. It can sometimes be used to reverse the direction of travel of the top when necessary because of a malfunction.

Greasing the channels will make the operation smoother.

What you noticed regarding the alignment of the top of the clamshell ends with the surrounding bodywork (if I understood you correctly) is most likely due to the two V-levers being out of synch. The clue there is that the piston on the driver's side if fully retracted and not showing any bright metal. That shows that the clamshell is not being pulled down as tightly as on the other side because the V-lever on that side is not at the same degree in its rotation. Compare the two positions of the V-levers to confirm that.

If you can use a voltmeter, I will dig up a step-by-step troubleshooting diagram that I obtained from the factory manual and post it here.

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi Maurice

I took these photos - it shows the spring struts have clearly parted company with the v lever where I guess it is supposed to connect to the ball which screws into the v lever. There is a threaded bolt hole in one end of the v lever where the ball screws in - is that right ? The balls are nowhere to be seen (yet)

Haven't been able to take photos of cables yet cause I cant find them , the canvas of the hood seems to restrict the camera positions

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The photos did not post. Perhaps you could post them again.

You can get a good photo of the cables where they first exit the sides of the electric motor. With the top in the service position, it gives you good access to the convertible top well and good access to the V-levers, etc...

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi

I'm a poor english guy with a 986 boxster (1999 ) 2.5

My hood went down half way and stopped . The motor was stopping and starting and the hood was juddering back and forth but stuck. I manually lifted the clam cover and the hood lowered by revisiting the dashboard switch-, there was a nasty clunk just as the hood settled into the down position. Now the hood won't open and the motor is dead. I can still lift the the clam which exposes the mechanism and I noticed that some type of strut (on either side) has become detached from the mechanism .These look like small gas struts but I don't think they are. They look as if they should connect like a ball and socket to the mechanism.

Any ideas ??

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

The parts that look like "small gas struts" are commonly referred to as black hydraulic struts, but they actually just have a very large spring inside of them.

One end of those struts is supposed to be connected to the body-colored support arm coming from the underside of the clamshell and the other end has a metal ball cup which is supposed to be pressed onto the steel ball at one end of the V-levers. The "hydraulic" pushrods are the parts that act on the clamshell and move it up and back and down and forward as the V-lever goes through its rotation.

If the front edge of your convertible top was cycling back and forth as it was in a position near the horizontal top part of the windshield frame, it's possible that your B-pillar microswitch has to be adjusted. If the lever on that microswitch contacts the base of the B-pillar frame at the wrong time (as measured by the cycle of the top travel) then it will go back and forth in very small movements.

At what point in the cycle did you get that "juddering back and forth"?

Are both black "hydraulic" pushrods disconnected from the V-levers?

Are your V-levers still intact (i.e., not broken apart and the steel balls still firmly bolted in)?

Regards, Maurice.

Hi Maurice

The juddering took place when the front edge of the soft top was vertical (sticking up in the air ) . i stopped depressing the switch . got out of the car and lift the clam shell manually upwards. I was surprised it could be lifted like that . Then started the switch operation again and the soft top fully retracted down . During that action there was two load expensive sounding clunks but the top still went down . The motor then did not operate from the dash board switch . On inspection after manually lifting the clam up I noticed that both struts were detached at the ball socket end and no sign of the protruding balls. I suspect they have sheared off. but there is no sign of debris.

Your advice would be very much appreciated , because booking this into a main dealer (knowing them) could prove expensive .

Thanks

Alan

Alan:

Was the top fully operational before this event, i.e., did it go up and down through its entire cycle normally, including the clamshell going up and back and then coming forward and down?

How long have you had the car?

Again, the only reason you were able to pick up the clamshell was because the black "hydraulic" pushrods were either disconnected or broken apart.

The juddering your top experienced may have been caused by one of the front pushrods being disconnected or broken off. The canvas and frame part of the top will still work with only one of the front pushrods connected, but one side of the top will lag behind or lurch forward during operation.

Check to make sure that your front pushrods are intact, that they are still attached to the front end of the V-levers and the plastic ball cups at the end of the front pushrods are not cracked apart or exploded. The plastic ball cups will be red in color if they are original, or white if they have been replaced.

What is a little puzzling is why you heard two loud clunks if the black pushrods were already disconnected from the V-Lever, unless they were dangling and got jammed against another part as the V-lever was rotating and they then let go suddenly.

Here is a photo of what the V-lever and black "hydraulic" pushrod is supposed to look like when the clamshell is in the rearmost (45 degree) position:

The only place that any broken pieces may end up would be in the foam drain tray, or if the pieces are small enough, they may end up in the drain hole almost directly below the V-lever on the horizontal surface of the drain tray. If your clamshell was operating normally before this event, you should be able to find the steel balls in those areas or, they might still be pressed in to the black hydraulic pushrods.

Here is a photo of the front pushrod with the red plastic ball cup at the end. That red plastic ball cup is supposed to be pressed onto a steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar:

Also, after you have determined what pieces may be broken or missing, you will have to establish whether your electric motor is spinning when you depress the switch on the dashboard and then determine whether your inner cables (inside the black vinyl sheaths) are still intact and turning the worm gear at the rear of each transmission.

I'll try to help you along the way. If you can post some photos of your V-levers, black hydraulic pushrods, front pushrods, and black vinyl sheathed cables, they may answer some questions.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks Maurice

Really appreciate your help

I'll take some photos today and attach them with more comments on my further invetigation

Regards

Alan

Hi Maurice

I tried the dashboard switch and the motor is spinning both ways but there is no movement under the clam which is as previously stated able to be lifed into the service position manually. so does that mean the cables have broken or become detached ?

The cable and sheaths externally appear normal

Regards

Alan

[1schoir]

Hi Maurice

I tried the dashboard switch and the motor is spinning both ways but there is no movement under the clam which is as previously stated able to be lifed into the service position manually. so does that mean the cables have broken or become detached ?

The cable and sheaths externally appear normal

Regards

Alan

Alan:

The fact that the motor is spinning both ways but there is no movement under the clamshell can have two sets of causes: one involves the drive cables, the other involves the V-levers.

1. a. The inner speedometer-type drive cables have either frayed or broken apart inside their outer black vinyl sheaths.

b. The inner speedometer-type drive cables have either become disengaged from the worm gear at the rear of the transmissions.

c. The worm gear at the rear of the transmissions are no longer being held down firmly by the outer housing (black plastic cover).

2. The connection between the rear of the V-Lever (as viewed when in the service position) and the black "hydraulic" pushrod is broken.

Remember that it's the black hydraulic pushrod that acts on the clamshell, just as it is the front pushrod and plastic ball cup that acts on the frame of the canvas top (the latter through the steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar).

In your case, since your V-levers have broken, you must repair or replace the V-lever or whichever parts have failed at the connection to the V-lever so as to cause the black "hydraulic" pushrod to no longer be driven by the V-lever.

If you take a look at your V-levers (even while they are broken) while you spin each inner cable with your drill (at the LOWEST torque setting), you should still be able to see that V-lever rotating slowly. If either of the V-levers are not rotating, see the causes enumerated in #1 above.

Let us know if you are making any progress.

Regards, Maurice.

[alanfdawson]

Hi Maurice

I tried the dashboard switch and the motor is spinning both ways but there is no movement under the clam which is as previously stated able to be lifed into the service position manually. so does that mean the cables have broken or become detached ?

The cable and sheaths externally appear normal

Regards

Alan

Thanks Maurice

Worst case scenario

Is this a "big" job to rectify ?

Regards

Alan

Alan:

The fact that the motor is spinning both ways but there is no movement under the clamshell can have two sets of causes: one involves the drive cables, the other involves the V-levers.

1. a. The inner speedometer-type drive cables have either frayed or broken apart inside their outer black vinyl sheaths.

b. The inner speedometer-type drive cables have either become disengaged from the worm gear at the rear of the transmissions.

c. The worm gear at the rear of the transmissions are no longer being held down firmly by the outer housing (black plastic cover).

2. The connection between the rear of the V-Lever (as viewed when in the service position) and the black "hydraulic" pushrod is broken.

Remember that it's the black hydraulic pushrod that acts on the clamshell, just as it is the front pushrod and plastic ball cup that acts on the frame of the canvas top (the latter through the steel ball under the base of the B-Pillar).

In your case, since your V-levers have broken, you must repair or replace the V-lever or whichever parts have failed at the connection to the V-lever so as to cause the black "hydraulic" pushrod to no longer be driven by the V-lever.

If you take a look at your V-levers (even while they are broken) while you spin each inner cable with your drill (at the LOWEST torque setting), you should still be able to see that V-lever rotating slowly. If either of the V-levers are not rotating, see the causes enumerated in #1 above.

Let us know if you are making any progress.

Regards, Maurice.