Tips on installing new top frame?

[Alex Walker]

I have a top assembly out of a 2002 which is in perfect condition that I'd like to swap my 97's top with. I've seen a few pages with info on replacing the canvas but not the frame assembly. Any tips?

Also, there was a popping sound and my top will no longer raise or lower. The clam shell part that swings up still works. Anyone know what's broken? Push rods?

[1schoir]

I have a top assembly out of a 2002 which is in perfect condition that I'd like to swap my 97's top with. I've seen a few pages with info on replacing the canvas but not the frame assembly. Any tips?

Also, there was a popping sound and my top will no longer raise or lower. The clam shell part that swings up still works. Anyone know what's broken? Push rods?

Alex:

If your clamshell still swings up and down and is working, and the canvas top no longer raises or lowers, one or both of your plastic ball cups (on the ends of the pushrods) have broken apart or popped off the steel balls at the base of the B-Pillars.

Here is a link to a DIY on removing and replacing the top and frame assembly: http://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/thetop-itsmaintaince%26replacement

BTW, replacing the complete top and frame assembly is MUCH easier than replacing just the canvas.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited March 1, 2010 by 1schoir

[Alex Walker]

Anyone have a part # on the plastic ball cups that have broken?

Thanks for the link, the pictures don't seem to be loading

[1schoir]

Anyone have a part # on the plastic ball cups that have broken?

Thanks for the link, the pictures don't seem to be loading

Alex:

The part number for the push rods is 986.561.279.02. Porsche does not sell the plastic ball cups separately.

If you buy the push rods for the 987, you can save a few dollars as the plastic ball cups on the end of those are identical to those on the 986. Part number for the 987 pushrod is 987.561.279.00.

There is a guy in the Netherlands who has had the plastic ball cups manufactured, and can get them to you in about 5 to 7 days. If you want his info, send me a PM.

Here is the text of a DIY on removing the complete top and frame assembly:

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables. Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later.

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a Phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The 8mm bolt at the top is located near the forward driver’s side corner of the carpet/foam engine compartment cover. The Phillips screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel. This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch about 2 inches down from the knuckle of the B-Pillar along the driver’s side door jamb, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.

4. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed, just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up.

Regards, Maurice.

[Alex Walker]

Thanks for the help! I believe it was mentioned las time I had the car in the shop that the push rods were brittle. Might as well replace them while I'm in there.

Edited March 1, 2010 by Alex Walker

[1schoir]

Thanks for the help! I believe it was mentioned las time I had the car in the shop that the push rods were brittle. Might as well replace them while I'm in there.

The only parts that get brittle are the plastic ball cups. This is especially true if you have the older style, red plastic ball cups. The rest of the assembly is composed of two metal parts, one 10 mm bolt, one fat washer, and a rubber bushing at the lever end. The metal parts don't have to be replaced unless they get mangled.

Regards, Maurice.

[Alex Walker]

Sent you a PM on the plastic ball cups