Swapping an Ignition switch

[mbbnyc]

Hi, I need to swap out my Ignition switch. Has anyone on here done this ? Do I have to remove the steering wheel ? is there a book out there that describes the process in detail ?

in a related topic since I will be getting new keys is it possible to get new cylinders for the door locks that match the new ignition key ?

Any help would be appreciated Thanks

[70Sixter]

First :welcome: :welcome:

Second, what year? Early switches are hard to find and out of production. So make sure you have a replacement before tearing out.

[mbbnyc]

whooppsss good point, It is a 1984 911 Carrera

[IXXI]

Hello

the ignition switch has two parts on front is the mechanical device and on the rear ist the electric switch.

Both parts can make problems but changing the electric switch is quite easy if you have small fingers and like to work overhead without direct sight.

The electric units are repairable and can be bought new for a fair price.

Renweing the electrik unit need a small screwdeiver or a 1/4 bitdrive an Bit. Up to 1985 the switch was attached with 3 Normal Blade screws on the rear and since 1985 they used easier to handle Philips head (Kreuzschlitz).

If the electric unit is "loose" then mostly fixing that solves some electric problems. Sometimes you have to take it apart and clean burned contacts.

The ignition key lock unit is very expensive and hard to repair bur mostly some TLC/Mainenance can bring back resonable further service life. Reneweing the unit needs some expirence and can be done with the right tools under 30 Minutes if the key still works and there is no underdash AC on the car.Without a working key or without key it will take a bit longer.

Grüsse

[mbbnyc]

Thanks Grüsse, I am sure it is the mechanical or (expensive) part of teh switch. I have already put in a new electric part of the switch and am still having the problems. I have found a really good price $472 (Ouch) for a new one. SO I am going to replace it. I was trying to find out how hard it is as I might try to do it myself and save some money, Or at least make sure this was NOT a moment when I should check my ego and just let professionals handle it. I am pretty handy around the car and like to learn by doing.

I am curious about what you mean by "renewing" the unit ? I believe I have a short inside of the unit and that is causing my problems. I have seen these outside of teh car not sure how I could even get inside to fix a short. The key works and there is no underdash AC.

Do you think you could elaborate a bit ?

Thanks

Michael

[IXXI]

Hello

well doing it is much simpler then writing it down ;)

Removing the ignition unit:

1.) Remove Knee bolster

2.) Remove Electric Connector on the Backside from the switch, US versions have a small separate contact for the key buzzer

3.) unscrew 8mm Allen insert bolt on the steering coloum

4.) unscrew Key Rosette part shown #33 just turn left if it wound budge there are holes in the circum to insert a 3mm thick drill to give additonal leverage

5.) remove shear bolt heads by chisseleing them away or drilling the head off, then remove the 2 Rivets and the reinforcment shield, on pre 77 cars you have to remove the faceplate to have acces to the 2 rivets. On pre 70 Keysystems the units is slim enough to be pushed trough the reinforcment plate hole.

6.) Insert key and unlock the steering then hold/turn the steering wheel oppesite and remove key again

7.) push the unit slight inwards then reach from the backside and when the look is behind the faceplate pull it out from the steering coulum (It was clamped there by the allen bolt with the 13mm nut). If key is missung or Lock defunct use brute force.

8.) Rebuilding Lock needs major knowledge and tools from a Locksmith, the manufactorer from the unit did not thought about rebuilding and sealed the units by "hotshrinkig" the accesplate, however it is douable and much simpler as on Ferarri Locks ;)

9.) If Lock is replaced write down the new key number and then either send your other locks to a locksmith to have them convertet to the new key or if you have time and acces to old parts you can do it yourself.

86_911_ignition_switch.pdf

Porsche DOM/HUF Locks do work very well over years as long the key hasn´t to much preload bey a fat key fob and whenever the key is "sticking" someone has to relube the Lock with DOM Lock Fluid wich is a spezial Graphite Solution made for DOM iX Lock systems. Öoils do not work for a long period and wash the grease in the Steering lock tumbler away however WD40 or any Lock oil are better then "grinding down" the unit.

When DOM/HUF Developd the System for Porsche/Mercedes the typical estimatet Lifecycle from the cars where 10-15 Years and Both Companys feelt they neede something that will be state of the art. However the cars are now very long in service and based on the expirience from Mercedes they wil withstand some 500000kms on a daily used car wicht gets starte twice daily. But on commercial used Benz (Taxis) some 300000km seemed to be the regurlar service time and then some relubing could bring an other 300000km untill the locks went out.

First signs fpr the lock needing major service is wehn the starter lock out isn´t working anymore and/or the key tendes to stick and needs fumbeling to be turned over.

Before inserting the elecrtik unit look inside the Lock if the elektric switch tumbler is a spade (Early up to the 80´s) or a cross. The early switch will not work with the late Lock but vice versa.

Grüsse

Edited February 23, 2010 by Loren
Updated PET diagram to a newer version