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Recommended Posts

Posted

Can you just mark the cam gear before pulling the cam gears out to keep the timing accurate? I want to replace all the wear pads on the timing chains but i dont wanna buy 1500 dollars worth of specialty tools....

Posted

PM me your email address and I will send you a diagram for the cam holder, some pics and some instructions of marking the cams and for setting the timing without the special tools.

Posted
PM me your email address and I will send you a diagram for the cam holder, some pics and some instructions of marking the cams and for setting the timing without the special tools.

pm sent and thanks!

I am trying to do some PM with 127k on the OD, I have heard that the rail guides get worn pretty bad on high mileage vehicles, I know i can replace the 2 pads per head on the Vario-cam thingie (sorry not sure of the technical term) but not sure if you can unbolt and replace the pads that run along the chain that go back to the IMS, from schematics it looks like one pad is held on by a bold and moved by an oil driven pressure unit, the other pad is bolted on with 2 bolts, just not sure if the bolts are accessible from the exterior of the engine and if they can be removed/replaced with the crank case assembled.

Posted
PM me your email address and I will send you a diagram for the cam holder, some pics and some instructions of marking the cams and for setting the timing without the special tools.

pm sent and thanks!

I am trying to do some PM with 127k on the OD, I have heard that the rail guides get worn pretty bad on high mileage vehicles, I know i can replace the 2 pads per head on the Vario-cam thingie (sorry not sure of the technical term) but not sure if you can unbolt and replace the pads that run along the chain that go back to the IMS, from schematics it looks like one pad is held on by a bold and moved by an oil driven pressure unit, the other pad is bolted on with 2 bolts, just not sure if the bolts are accessible from the exterior of the engine and if they can be removed/replaced with the crank case assembled.

For the IMS to exhaust cam chain guides, the adjustable one is held by 1 bolt and the fixed is held by two bolts. For head 1-3 all the bolts are easily accessible by (flywheel side). For head 4-6, you have to remove the oil pump housing to access the bolts. I had minimal wear on my chain guides at 105K on mine. I also replaced all three chain adjusters as two were scored. The vario-cam pads were worn badly. If I were to do again, I think I skip the chain guides. I posted this on rennlist about a month ago.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/7191930-post1.html

Posted

When I did my head repair I had the same basic experience with the plastic pads on the chain guides, although I only removed the one for the IMS to Cams on the 1-3 side. It showed hardly any wear at 50K. But the pads for the cam advance tensioners were all badly worn, so I replaced them on both heads, about $13 per set, left the others alone.

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