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Recommended Posts

Posted

I've decided to get a pair of GT3 stabilizer bars. My question is regarding the drop links. My understanding is that the stock links will not work at all in the front and will reach only two of the four adjustment holes on the rear bar. Is this correct? I checked with Gert and he can provide a spare set of stock links that he says need to be shortened, but I don't know by how much. Also, if the links are shortened to a fixed length, will they be able to reach all of the adjustment holes in each bar? Do the links need to be adjustable too?

While I'm on the subject, does anyone know how the GT3 bars compare to the ROW M030 bars for stiffness? I know the dimensions of the bars, but as a starting point I'd like to know how the settings on the GT3 bars compare to the M030 bars. For example, is the "softest" setting on the GT3 bar less, more, or equal to the fixed stiffness of the M030 bar. Knowing this could simplify setup. Anyone have any experience with this?

Posted

Mike,

When I installed the GT3 bars on my 99 C2, I used the TRG drop links. I didn't do the install myself but was told that the stock links wouldn't work. There may be other source now (this was 3 years ago) but the TRG drop links are very nice quality and fully adjustable with spherical bearings.

I've never actually seen any specs on the bars but assume the GT3 bar is stiffer even in the softest setting. I would recommend starting with the front bar full soft and the rear bar full stiff. Then make one position adjustments front or rear (only one at a time) until you have the car the way you want it. On my car I ended up with the front bar one position from full soft and the rear one or two from full stiff depending on the track. It was very neutral but that was with very stiff springs and ProTrac double adjustable shocks. YMMV

Karl

Posted
When I installed the GT3 bars on my 99 C2, I used the TRG drop links. I didn't do the install myself but was told that the stock links wouldn't work. There may be other source now (this was 3 years ago) but the TRG drop links are very nice quality and fully adjustable with spherical bearings.

Part of what's confusing is that I've spoken with different vendors and everyone agrees that new front links are required, but have gotten conflicting information on whether different rear links are required. I've also heard that the links need to be adjustable, and conversely, that it doesn't matter if they are adjustable. I'm trying to get it all sorted out, particularly because I want to install the bars myself.

BTW, thanks for the setup advice. :cheers:

Posted
I think Gert has a set of drop link mounts too. Try emailing him at Gert@Carnewal.com

Loren,

I wrote to Gert and he said he had stock links that would then have to be modified. He said it was something any mechanic could do, but I'd rather go a different route and get pre-fabricated links to avoid that hassel.

Posted

Mike,

Schatz Motorsports sells the GT3 bars with only a new front link, so I assume the rear link will work. You might want to give Michael a call to confirm. You may also want to talk to TRG, if you haven't. They can fill you in on the advantages of their adjustable links. As I said, I had the TRG's on my car and they are much more substantial than the factory drop links on the GT3.

I will also ask Mike Levitas at TPC about the drop links but he is off tire testing at the Glen, so I won't see him until Saturday.

Karl

Posted

I run TRG links with my GT3 bars. A few thing to be aware of....

1. TRG drop links currently only work with 2wd cars in the front. They are working on a curved droplink for the AWD but don't have one yet.

2. The current TRG links will bind and break if placed under load in a tight radius turn situation on the stiffest two positions. This applies primarily to autocross, you will never get tight enough on a track. They are working on a fix, but for now, if you autocross, stay out of the first two holes on the front bar.

Posted
I run TRG links with my GT3 bars.  A few thing to be aware of....

1. TRG drop links currently only work with 2wd cars in the front.  They are working on a curved droplink for the AWD but don't have one yet.

2. The current TRG links will bind and break if placed under load in a tight radius turn situation on the stiffest two positions.  This applies primarily to autocross, you will never get tight enough on a track.  They are working on a fix, but for now, if you autocross, stay out of the first two holes on the front bar.

My car is 2 wheel drive so point one is moot, however point two is very interesting. I spoke with TRG this morning and I will check back with them on this as I do autocross. I probably won't be going that stiff on the front bar but still that's very good info to have. Thanks. :thumbup:

Out of curiousity, are you using TRG or stock links at the rear? What is the rest of your suspension setup?

Posted

Currently I have TRG links all around on GT3 bars. The shocks and springs are X74. This is a great street/track suspension, but I am looking to make the move to a full blown track only race suspension. I've been looking at Sachs, JRZ and Moton. The X74 handles amazingly compared to the US or even ROW 030 suspensions but it is still too soft for racing. The ride height is manageable for most driveways, a few you have to go sideways on.

  • 2 months later...
Posted
I run TRG links with my GT3 bars.  A few thing to be aware of....

1. TRG drop links currently only work with 2wd cars in the front.  They are working on a curved droplink for the AWD but don't have one yet.

2. The current TRG links will bind and break if placed under load in a tight radius turn situation on the stiffest two positions.  This applies primarily to autocross, you will never get tight enough on a track.  They are working on a fix, but for now, if you autocross, stay out of the first two holes on the front bar.

Mine (TRG) broke in turn 1 (not tight at all and about 90mph uphill) at road Atlanta!

Not a nice noise and a funky wobbly feeling in the steering after the LOUD sound.

They both severed at exactly the same place. I replaced them with Gert's modified standard ones and had no problems since

JM

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