Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2002 Carrera 4 that came with the "hardtop delete". It still had the receiver hardware under the caps. Last week I purchased a hardtop from a local seller that came from a 2001 C4.

I got it installed okay, but there is a pretty wide gap around the back of the top, easily enough to fit my fingers under. It is mostly quiet, but there is a rattle when going over rough spots in the road.

I read the TSBs on here related to this issue, but didn't see any that addressed height adjustment on the twist pin latches. All it says it to replace them with the new screw in variant.

It looks like there are bolts on top and below the twist pin that can be loosened to raise and lower it. Can someone confirm this and/or tell me what the ideal height is?

I am hoping that proper adjustment will result in diminished rattle.

Thanks,

Bobby

post-52364-1264611777_thumb.jpg

Posted (edited)

This is normal.

The rear of the hard top hang's over the body a little like a lip, enough to fit your fingers.

I think it's to allow for better water drainage? When you tighten the top with the (red handle) alan key

make sure (with a bit of force) you turn it until you hear and feel a click.

As far as I know it's not possible to adjust the height.

Oh and hard tops creek and rattle lots :rolleyes:

I'll try and post pictures of mine.

Edited by JamesD
Posted

The gap is normal, but you do want to make sure you have matching hardware on the top and the car. The older style hardware had little prongs on the side of the hardware on the top, the new style has screw like threads. You need matching hardware in the car or it won't tighten properly.

Posted (edited)

I have the older style hardware, but the same on the car and the top.

I attached a photo of the hardware I have. (Photo credit to Orient Express from a thread on Rennlist!)

If you look at the male portion of the twist pin, there is a hex bolt above and below the plate that looks to me like it can be loosened/tightened to let the shaft rise and fall. Mine looks like the passenger side has already been adjusted, ergo, the passenger side looks to sit 2-3 mm lower than the drivers side.

I've looked high and low and can't find any documentation regarding this topic. I appreciate any feedback.

post-52364-1264684140_thumb.jpg

Edited by bobbybailey
Posted

I had the HT delete as well-but had to install all new hardware to accept the top and pins-I used the two hex bolts to lower (or raise) the pin height until I could crank on the allen wrench and lock the pin in place in the car (as tight as posible)-in the cold (below zero) it creaks more-but in the 20's+ its been pretty good-I also lubed and siliconed as much of the contact area as I could prior to setting it on the car (both top and car rubber).

Posted
I had the HT delete as well-but had to install all new hardware to accept the top and pins-I used the two hex bolts to lower (or raise) the pin height until I could crank on the allen wrench and lock the pin in place in the car (as tight as posible)-in the cold (below zero) it creaks more-but in the 20's+ its been pretty good-I also lubed and siliconed as much of the contact area as I could prior to setting it on the car (both top and car rubber).

I think my problem is that I have:

The old locks (top is from a 2001):

996 563 403 01

996 563 404 01

and

the new inserts (on my 2002):

996 561 657 01

996 561 658 01

Should I buy the new screw in hardware?

Part numbers:

996.563.403.04

996.563.404.04

900.378.030.09

996.561.653.04

996.561.654.04

900.378.173.09

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I realized after I installed that I too have the old bayonet style lock-and I guess I dont mind too much-I'm coming from turbo cars with loud exhaust-the bump from the top and a couple rattles over the MN roads are not enough to bother me (personally).

I hear good things about the new set up-but I'm happy with the HT installed for the winter only here-the roads are already in rough rough shape.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.