ATF filling procedure on my02 tiptronic

[paspar22]

The instructions I obtained show that on my02, unlike the instructions on the DIY link for the pre my02, the filling hose has a threaded connector. Does anyone who DIY'ed an my02+ tip ATF change know if this is absolutely needed? can one still use an "upside down J copper pipe" type filler? is the filler opening higher on the case then the check valve that shows proper ATF level?

Thanks

[Loren]

Yes, MY02 and newer need the threaded adapter hose or fluid will run out.

On the new Tiptronic introduced in MY02 the design has changed and you fill from the bottom hole. Sorry, I do not know of any way around it other than using the correct fill hose.

[paspar22]

thanks for that...

What is stopping the fluid from running out once the case is full and its time to disconnect the threaded connector?

[Loren]

It has a valve. So, when the tube/hose is inserted it opens - when the tube is removed it closes.

Having the transmission oil at the proper temperature is also critical to over or under filling.

[paspar22]

right. I have a durametric which I read has a tranny oil temp readout - I will need to check this out before doing anything

FYI The rest of the procedure: After filling to the the check valve level, start the car, shift through gears r-n-d-p, wait for temp to reach 30-40c top up again till fluid runs out of check valve and close everything up.

Edited January 9, 2010 by paspar22

[larez2]

I have a MY02 Tiptronic. Does anyone have a picture of the fill hole/check valve? I changed my tranny fluid a while back and I didn't need or use any special tools. The fill hole i used wasn't the bottom hole either; there was one near bottom hole but a little bit higher (on the transmission pan itself). I didn't use a special threaded adapter hose or anything like that to fill it. I used a fluid pump to pump in the new fluid through the fill hole, and like you said - I just filled it, shifted it through the gears, measured the temp, and topped it off. Some fluid spilled out while I was filling it but it wasn't bad at all.

Also, you can't drain all the tranmission fluid like in the torque converter without a PST2 or PIWIS, so i just drove around after the first drain and fill for about 100 miles and drained and filled it again.

Its been 6000 miles since I changed the fluid change and no problems.

[paspar22]

larez2 - sounds like you used the hole that tells you that the pan is full to fill the pan :)

Loren - do you happen to know the part number for this filler hose? I found this in my docs: "9507/1" but this isnt a part number and the parts department is clueless.

thanks

[Loren]

000.721.950.71 Connecting hose -- US MSRP $40.05

[paspar22]

Thanks!

[paspar22]

Well, looks like I was wrong. Durametric will not read actual values on the mkII tips (G1xx is what durametric calls them). Truthfully, Im somewhat disappointed about that.

How do others here measure the ATF temp w/o the proper computer hookup?

thanks

[Loren]

Well, looks like I was wrong. Durametric will not read actual values on the mkII tips (G1xx is what durametric calls them). Truthfully, Im somewhat disappointed about that.

How do others here measure the ATF temp w/o the proper computer hookup?

thanks

Another member here used an Oregon Scientific temperature meter with a probe.

Tiptronic Transmission Service

[paspar22]

Another member here used an Oregon Scientific temperature meter with a probe.

Tiptronic Transmission Service

pre 02's are different... you can use a probe... on the 02+ using the charge hose you told me about, I dont see how you can insert that probe.

[Loren]

Other than drawing some fluid out and measuring it I don't know of another way other than a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

[paspar22]

Read on the benz board that folk use an infrared thermometer and test the pan's temperature which sounds like a good approach to me... (What do you think?)

measuring what escapes the level bore might be another way...

Other than drawing some fluid out and measuring it I don't know of another way other than a PST2 or PIWIS tester.

[maor]

Im bumping this.

I was under the impression that with people with the MB transmission filling it was just the normal way with no need for any adapters or J joint things.

Just drain out of the red and fill at the blue at the right temp until it dribbles? Just like a normal tranny...

Edited July 14, 2013 by maor

[Loren]

See the posts above - you do need thermometer and J tube to prevent over/under filling.

[maor]

Where is the j tube being used though?

The j tube is when you have one hole for fill and drain?

Here we have 2 holes with the fill being much higher than the drain...?

[Loren]

Where is the j tube being used though?

The j tube is when you have one hole for fill and drain?

Here we have 2 holes with the fill being much higher than the drain...?

Did you look at the DIY linked above... all is explained.

[maor]

But that's a 5hp19.

Why can't you just fill the MB transmission from the upper hole until the sump is full :S

[Loren]

You DO NOT fill the whole sump like a manual transmission. You fill from the bottom up using the procedure below.

From the service manual...

Replacing ATF (from MY2002)

Filling capacity: approx. 9.0 litres

Change quantity: approx. 4.5 litres

1. Place oil collection pan under the transmission.

2. Unscrew drain screw A and drain ATF.

Note: Without ATF, the engine must not be started and the vehicle must not be towed.

3. Replace sealing ring for drain plug and tighten screw.

Tightening torque: 22 Nm (16 ftlb.)

4. Unscrew control screw B.

Note: To undo and tighten the cap nut for the charging valve, counter with an open-ended wrench.

5. Screw off cap nut for the charging valve.

6. Screw connection hose No. 9507/1 A onto charging valve. Top up with ATF via the charging valve until surplus ATF runs out at the control screw bore.

Note: All instructions and test conditions for "Checking and topping up ATF fluid" must be observed for further work steps>>> 37-1 "Checking and topping up ATF (as of model year 2002)".

7. Connect the Porsche System Tester 2 and call up the ATF temperature.

8. Move selector lever to position "P" and allow engine to idle.

9. With engine running, top up ATF again until excess ATF emerges from the bore of the ATF control screw B.

10. With the brake pedal pressed, change through all selector lever positions, remaining in each position for approx. 10 s.

Note: The ATF temperature must not be higher than 40°C at the start of the test.

11. Check the ATF level again and top up if necessary>>> 37-1 "Checking and topping up ATF (as of model year 2002)"

12. Replace sealing ring for cap nut and screw cap nut onto the charging valve.

Tightening torque: 40 Nm (30 ftlb.)

13. Screw in ATF control screw with a new sealing ring.

Tightening torque: 22 Nm (16 ftlb.)

[maor]

I'm just confused on what the difference could possible be. In my head, both leave the same end result. Fluid dribbling out of point B regardless if you fill from A or B ?

[JFP in PA]

I'm just confused on what the difference could possible be. In my head, both leave the same end result. Fluid dribbling out of point B regardless if you fill from A or B ?

You do not fill thru either A or B, on a 2002 and later car you fill it via the charging valve (looks like an AC charging port at the corner of the trans sump) using a special hose with a fitting for the charging port until the fluid comes out of port B with the car running and fluid at around 40C. If you have aces to a Bentley manual, look at page 37-12 and all will be revealed.........

[maor]

Hmm that goes against the service manual and Pelican :S

[JFP in PA]

Hmm that goes against the service manual and Pelican :S

OK, as that is the way we have been doing 2002+ 996 Tips since they first showed up, then let's start again with the basics: What year and model is the car?

[maor]

2004 996 3.6 Tip...

My sump looks exactly the same as Lorens service manual post and the pelican picture.