Re Instructions For Shifter Adjustment Tool?

[SPR]

Hey Loren you wouldn't happen to have the instructions that tell you how to use the shifter linkage adjustment tool? I am getting on next week to adjust my cables perfectly as they are still not right and I am sure that is the only thing that will suffice, btw it was 3 bucks!

[Tool Pants]

If you have a B&M then the tool will not fit.

[drpeter]

I think I am in the same situation, I did not mark the cables when I put in the B&M shifter. Could I simply replace the original shifter and simply use this tool to correctly place the cables, then MARK them this time and then swap in the B&M?

If so, I would like to know how to use the tool and where do I get one?

[tomdeg]

I am interested in this as well. I recently purchased a B&M shifter an would like to adjust the cables perfectly before installing it. How does the dealer adjust the cables on a car that came with the SSK?

[Tool Pants]

This is the tool, for when the shift cables are replaced. The transmission is put in neutral, then this tool is snaped on the shift tower to lock the shift lever in the neutral position. Then the cables at the shift lever end fall into their proper location. Before I put in a B&M I make sure the cables are adjusted properly with the tool, because if they are not then the cables will also be off when I put the B&M in. Once the B&M is in I cannot use the tool.

This is the tool on the oem shift.

This is a B&M. The B&M unit sits up higher and the shift lever is too large for the tool. It is not possible to use the tool on the B&M or Porsche short shift. Since the Porsche short shift is identical to B&M and Porsche sells it as an option, I asked Peter if Porsche has come out with a new tool. Peter has not seen it, if it exists.

The front shift is the oem shift with the B&M bushings. The tool will fit this set up. If you did not mark the cables before installing a B&M and you cannot get the cables located properly by trial and error, then you put the oem shift back in with the B&M bushings. Then use the tool to set the cables and mark them. Then put the B&M back in.

[tomdeg]

How do you adjust the cable?

[SPR]

so there is no way to modify the tool other than to take out the aftermarket shifter install the oem then adjust then remove and reinstall eh? well I guess it's a project for the weekend-

[Loren]

Folks... the key here is that if your stock shifter is shifting correctly then the B&M will also - as long as you mark the cable positions (or count the threads) before the change over. I have probably done 2 or 3 dozen of these and I have never had to use the alignment tool on a car that was already shifting correctly.

[SPR]

Hey so I removed the b&M and then installed the oem with the adjustment tool

It wanted more adjustment than the tabs at the bottom of the plastic would allow!!! I am rather perturbed needless to say. I have yet to drive the car but hopefully it will be better. I was having problems getting it into R and 6th

[dj996]

The cables should drop right into the plastic connectors when the tool is used. FWIW when I used the tool to check my factory setup, after marking the cables, it was off by a few threads. I wouldn't install a B&M without the tool as a guide , unless I used the Porsche method of removing the cables off the shifter.

[SPR]

Well where the cables wanted to go was not feasable because it was at the end where the gussets are that don't allow them past. Is it possible that the opposite ends were adjusted? In any event I drove the car with the cables all the way maxed out closest to where they wanted to be and it is soooo much better. I actually enjoy the car again. It was so bad it wouldn't go into R most of the time or it would hop out

[Jenno]

TP - is that (000 721 961 90) the part number for the tool ??.

Cheers,

Mike.

[Tool Pants]

That is the part number. When you see 721 in a part number you know it is a tool.

The tool itself has 996 424 395 02 on it.

[C4S Surgeon]

I put my B-M in by just disconnecting the cables at the shift tower and then just snapping them back on(Porsche Method) and not messing with adjusting the cables at all. It was a breeze, works perfectly. Thanks Tool Pants.

BTW I've seen a lot of discussion re billet shift ends, worth it, needed?

Edited October 26, 2004 by C4S Surgeon

[tomdeg]

Just put mine in the other night. OMG what a difference! It makes the car feel so much tighter. I installed mine the same way, left the cables in place, flipped the tower on it's side, pulled off the coupling, new shifter in, snappped the coupling back on...viola.

[SPR]

Ok Ok I figured out what my problem is. Loren, like my 3rd radiator it only took me what 7 times to get it perfect????? I had the adjustment stop in the rear, consequently even though I had the tool and swaped out the factory shifter and all it still didn't have enough threads to get to where perfect would be. After I swapped it out to the front, having broken both race tabs no less and fiddling with the perfect lash over and over lo and behold there is plenty of slack now!!! They were 4 from the tabs on each basically. Swapped in the oem porsche ssk and it liked it just fine. Now it's perfect. I haven't driven it yet, although will do in a couple of hours for my night class. The answer- follow the directions. Even though it seemed like a great idea for adjusting the stop as I didn't ahve a right angled allen, it didn't allow enough slack on the cables to avhe the stop in the rear!!!!

Sometimes I really have to laugh at myself.

:)

[SPR]

Ok went for the drive. WOW it has never been this good even with the factory adjustment when I got the car! I highly advise adjusting the shifter before the install or for that matter doing so even afterward if there is some doubt-

[Tool Pants]

BTW I've seen a lot of discussion re billet shift ends, worth it, needed?

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...t=0entry11426

[redduck996]

wow.. Is it that critical to have the cables aligned perfectly? What will happen if I dont have the tool and align the cables? I didn't remove the left cable end and it appears to have no threads showing.. Is that the way its set from the factory? My right side has about 4 threads showing

[Tool Pants]

Depends on what you mean critical. This is a car, not a brain.

Each grove is just a hair from the next one. So if you are a few groves off the transmission does not know. If you are too many groves off then you can pop out of gear or have a problem getting into gear.

I was at my dealer last week talking to the mechanics I know. There is a new tool catalog that just came out. There still is no locking bridge for the 996 Porsche/B&M short shift. I doubt if there will ever be one since the 997/987 is out.

A mechanic told me that when they replace the cables on a car with a short shift he puts the transmission in neutral - holds the shift lever in the neutral position - and snaps the cables into the cable connectors. Take it for a test drive and if it shifts properly then it is out the door.

If he can see the wear marks on the connectors then he uses that as a reference to snap in the new cables.

[redduck996]

gotcha! eyeing it should be suffice.. even if I have to use 2 hands to get that sucker in gear I think i'm good.. <_<

Depends on what you mean critical.  This is a car, not a brain.

Each grove is just a hair from the next one.  So if you are a few groves off the transmission does not know.  If you are too many groves off then you can pop out of gear or have a problem getting into gear.

I was at my dealer last week talking to the mechanics I know.  There is a new tool catalog that just came out.  There still is no locking bridge for the 996 Porsche/B&M short shift.  I doubt if there will ever be one since the 997/987 is out.

A mechanic told me that when they replace the cables on a car with a short shift he puts the transmission in neutral - holds the shift lever in the neutral position - and snaps the cables into the cable connectors.  Take it for a test drive and if it shifts properly then it is out the door.

If he can see the wear marks on the connectors then he uses that as a reference to snap in the new cables.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

[gandrade1]

I put my B-M in by just disconnecting the cables at the shift tower and then just snapping them back on(Porsche Method) and not messing with adjusting the cables at all. It was a breeze, works perfectly. Thanks Tool Pants.

BTW I've seen a lot of discussion re billet shift ends, worth it, needed?

I am doing the B&M install tomorrow night and would not like to mess with cable adjustments...

Do you have any pictures or additional instructions on how the 'Porsche Method' works?

Is there any TSB that will cover that

Thanks,

Gus

Edited April 1, 2008 by gandrade1

[Loren]

The only difference in the "Porsche method" is that they leave the cable ends on the cables. They pry the ball joint off the main shifter and detach the reverse cable connector.

Either way will work.

[gandrade1]

I put my B-M in by just disconnecting the cables at the shift tower and then just snapping them back on(Porsche Method) and not messing with adjusting the cables at all. It was a breeze, works perfectly. Thanks Tool Pants.

BTW I've seen a lot of discussion re billet shift ends, worth it, needed?

Does anyone have any pictures that show where to disconnect the cables on the Porsche Method?

I don't want to mess with the alignment...

Thanks,

Gus

Edited May 2, 2008 by gandrade1

[Loren]

Tool Pants likely posted a pic a while back - try searching.

At the bottom of the shifter rod is a black ball socket - pry that off. That is the main shifter cable for gears 1 to 6.

Then disconnect the blue shifter rod (pin). This is the for the reverse cable.