Need help Identifying Coolant Leak Source Under 986

[rprieto]

2002 986S w/Tiptronic

For a couple of days I noticed a few tablespoons of coolant fluid on the garage floor when I take off for the day. I gave the car a rest so as not to damage anything till I found time to take a look. Now there are barley a few drops after very long weekend. I looked underneath this evening and found the following shown in the photo. I don't have a floor jack so I could not get a real good view from beneath the pump. I tightened the hose clamp as well as the lower bolt shown with a drop on it. After a brief spin around the neighborhood I don't see any more leaks....yet. I took a photo to review later. Are those lower 2 bolts part of the water pump?

Also, there is no unusual noises to indicate a water pump bearing failure, but I am no expert. What else can I do to check the pump to verify I need to replace it?

One thing I noticed is that there is sometimes, once a week, white smoke upon start-up like that of an AOS type problem. But I replaced the AOS it a few months ago. Don't know if this leak is related and just mentioning it as an FYI. No oil in the coolant tank, and no unusual fluid on the oil dipstick.

Please let me know what you see from the photo.

Thanks!

[systech]

2002 986S w/Tiptronic

For a couple of days I noticed a few tablespoons of coolant fluid on the garage floor when I take off for the day. I gave the car a rest so as not to damage anything till I found time to take a look. Now there are barley a few drops after very long weekend. I looked underneath this evening and found the following shown in the photo. I don't have a floor jack so I could not get a real good view from beneath the pump. I tightened the hose clamp as well as the lower bolt shown with a drop on it. After a brief spin around the neighborhood I don't see any more leaks....yet. I took a photo to review later. Are those lower 2 bolts part of the water pump?

Also, there is no unusual noises to indicate a water pump bearing failure, but I am no expert. What else can I do to check the pump to verify I need to replace it?

One thing I noticed is that there is sometimes, once a week, white smoke upon start-up like that of an AOS type problem. But I replaced the AOS it a few months ago. Don't know if this leak is related and just mentioning it as an FYI. No oil in the coolant tank, and no unusual fluid on the oil dipstick.

Please let me know what you see from the photo.

Thanks!

The normal spots for coolant leaks are the coolant tank (it develops small cracks, check under the carpet in the boot..sorry trunk), the coolant cap itself (it sometimes lets go) and the radiators in the front bumper (corrosion due to leaves etc). However in your case it looks like you're got a leak around the water pump connections. That elbow connected to the rubber hose in your photo looks very corroded and may be worth removing for a check and/or replacing.

[pk2]

A lot of corrosion indeed.Take it off clean all the corrossion off an out of the hose. Chances are fare that you'll find the end of that hose showing some age. When you remove the hose, have a fair sized tub to catch the coolant. You can also bend the hose up, clamp if you can to minimize the drainage.

Puff of white smoke after a few idle days is normal.

Regards, PK

[goldenwarrior1]

A lot of corrosion indeed.Take it off clean all the corrossion off an out of the hose. Chances are fare that you'll find the end of that hose showing some age. When you remove the hose, have a fair sized tub to catch the coolant. You can also bend the hose up, clamp if you can to minimize the drainage.

Puff of white smoke after a few idle days is normal.

Regards, PK

If you follow the source of the leak pattern it leads up under the pulley above it which should be the water pump. Most water pumps have a weep hole that will begin to seep fluid when the shaft seal begins to go. Judging by the amount of build up around the hose clamp, you need to replace the pump immediately as it could give way any time. Not a hard job and can be done by most DIY if you have a jack and a few tools. The small investment would be much less than what a shop would charge you.

R/GW

Edited October 29, 2009 by goldenwarrior1

[JeTexas]

I concur that it's the waterpump weeping. If it was just the hose leaking there wouldn't be coolant stains and corrosion above the gooseneck, but you can see white residue all the way up to to the pulley.

By the way, there's a guy on ebay who sells the pumps with metal impellers instead of plastic.

[Tool Pants]

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

[txhokie4life]

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now!

Mike

'00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

[rprieto]

Appreciate all your input. After looking at photos & figures of other water pumps and taking a closer look at the photo I took (thanks for noticing the upper level detail), I will contact Sunset to buy a replacement pump.

I was unaware that the elbow is part of the water or “coolant pump.”

Any time estimate to R&R the pump? I am expecting 2-4 hours. My local dealer quoted me $670 for labor plus $330 for parts. Funny how the dealers seem to charge fairly simple repairs of this type to ~$1000 or so. These guys are experts and I figured the labor should be much less than the value they quoted me.

So I will be replacing the water pump and gasket as well as the serpentine belt while I am at it. Anything else I should look at doing while I am there?

Thanks, R.

[rprieto]

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now!

Mike

'00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

Thanks, I am convinced. Thank God I stopped driving it after I figured it was coolant fluid. I originally thought it was oil, dirty at first, till I saw that the color was green. Yes, the original coolant is still in there.

So, how does a bad water pump ruin the engine? Overtemp?

Got to call Jeff at Sunset so why am I typing this message

R.

Edited October 29, 2009 by rprieto

[Jinster]

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now!

Mike

'00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

Thanks, I am convinced. Thank God I stopped driving it after I figured it was coolant fluid. I originally thought it was oil, dirty at first, till I saw that the color was green. Yes, the original coolant is still in there.

So, how does a bad water pump ruin the engine? Overtemp?

Got to call Jeff at Sunset so why am I typing this message

R.

I might as well chime in and say it's the water pump.

Actually I had very similar symptoms to yours a year ago. Within about 2 weeks, it deteriorated to needing a top up of 5L a day to get home from work. I carried a few bottles of water in my car just to be safe, while this was happening.

You should be able to get a water pump on Ebay, brand new for less than $150. Mine cost exactly that, including shipping to Australia.

It's a 4hour DIY. One of the bolts at the back is hard to get to. That took me about 1hr alone. Everything else was straight forward.

It's probably the seal that went bad, not the impeller.

High temps kill the engine, or permanently damage its parts. Remember the coolant temperature gauge only measures the temperature at that particular point where the sensor is mounted. You could be getting hot spots inside the engine once the coolant level runs low, without this ever registering on the coolant temp gauge.

Good luck with the replacement. Easily DIYable.

[txhokie4life]

Here are 2 pumps that were replaced because they were leaking. I also think that is what is going on. These pumps seem to go out after 65K miles. The picture was taken at an independent shop owned by Marvin. I think Marvin has been trying a non Porsche branded pump made by Laso with a plastic impeller because so many of the factory pumps go bad.

You don't want that water pump to take your engine with it -- replace it now!

Mike

'00S rebuild due to water pump @ 33.5K miles.

Thanks, I am convinced. Thank God I stopped driving it after I figured it was coolant fluid. I originally thought it was oil, dirty at first, till I saw that the color was green. Yes, the original coolant is still in there.

So, how does a bad water pump ruin the engine? Overtemp?

Got to call Jeff at Sunset so why am I typing this message

R.

See my picture story here

My '00S with Water Pump Failure and the engine rebuild

[Sboxin]

You might want to replace the thermostat while you are in that area.

There are some good pics and instructions out there somewhere -- I just did mine at 75K.

You can also drain the coolant into clean tubs and reuse if it is still clear/not contaminated.

Note: there is a LOT of coolant - but by clamping the big hose to the thermostat you can keep

a lot in the car.

I'll go look for the instructions/pics...

Edit: found this for 996 -- very similar to 986 and this is what I used

http://p-car.com/996/diy/waterpump/

Pay attention to the bolt lengths as you remove them - there are two longer ones that need to go back in the same holes.

Take care, :cheers:

Roy T

Phoenix

Edited October 30, 2009 by Sboxin

[Tool Pants]

That is Robin Sun's site. I think that is his name. 993 guy converted to 996. If I remember correctly he was on Rennlist a few years ago because the factory pump he used started to leak.

I spoke to Marvin yesterday and he is no longer using Lasco, because he has had cars come back weeping coolant. He has also seen a dealership installed Laso pump in his shop that was weeping.

So the factory and Lasco pumps leak. Might be time to give that ebay pump with a metal impeller a try.

[wvicary]

So I will be replacing the water pump and gasket as well as the serpentine belt while I am at it. Anything else I should look at doing while I am there?

Thanks, R.

Inspect all the serpentine belt idlers/rollers when changing the belt.

[rprieto]

Finally received the parts from Sunset, belt included.

After looking over instructions to R&R the pump, I found that the bolts need to be torqued to 7 foot-pounds. The smallest torque wrench I can find (Auto-zone) only goes down to 120 "inch pounds" which is equivalent to 10 foot pounds. Is 7 for real? That is barely snug I figure.

I see others have had problems removing the bolt to the far right. Was a universal joint used as is called out for in the instructions?

Edited November 4, 2009 by rprieto

[whall]

R.

Both the factory service manual and Bentley's call for a tightening torque of 7 ft-lbs. It does seem "finger tight", but......

BTW, both manuals call out 7 ft-lbs for the tightening torque of the nuts and bolts that hold the engine access panel as well.

Bill

[JFP in PA]

Finally received the parts from Sunset, belt included.

After looking over instructions to R&R the pump, I found that the bolts need to be torqued to 7 foot-pounds. The smallest torque wrench I can find (Auto-zone) only goes down to 120 "inch pounds" which is equivalent to 10 foot pounds. Is 7 for real? That is barely snug I figure.

I see others have had problems removing the bolt to the far right. Was a universal joint used as is called out for in the instructions?

That is the correct torque; best way to do it is with an inch pound torque wrench, 7 foot pounds = 84 inch pounds, which is about mid scale on most inch pound wrenches..................