Series of issues related to destroyed IMMOB

[txhokie4life]

Bought a 2000 2.7L with an automatic transmission issue -- got a water logged nightmare in hiding.

The IMMOB literally disintegrated in my hands when I removed it from its housing.

I have pulled the entire interior, convertible top assembly, and all carpet, padding, liners have been gutted.

Found the source of the water leaks -- and will address.

Now on to my real issues.

I had purchased a triplate of a IMMOB/DME/FOB for an engine stand I was considering to build.

This was from OKLAHOMA Foreign so I figured it was indeed a set and that it worked.

I swapped out the DME, and put in the IMMOB. It has a FOB with no key -- so I was just using

the keys that came with the car in the ignition.

The FOB will give me 2 horn beeps, and the red light on the front dash will blink. I can also raise/lower

the windows -- so some of the IMMOB functions are working.

However when I turn the keys -- I get nothing. Engine does not even fire the starter.

So I don't know if the IMMOB and DME are happy -- I have yet to hook up the Durametric.

But it is in the plans to do so soon.

The climate control seems to be flickering -- and will not run -- seems almost like it has a short.

I can goto auto or up and down fan control -- but it is almost like it resets itself everytime the

blower runs.

I do not know if this is colateral damage or related to the car being unhappy with the IMMOB/DME setup.

I know this is a lot to digest --

I'm just struggling with what to do next.

I'd like to prove the engine will fire before I buy a complete new IMMOB/FOB and have it programmed.

Especially since I will have to flatbed it to the dealership.

thanks for any help,

Mike

[Guest]

Swap the keyfob. The ignition will "read" the chip from the keyfob. It's easy to swap, it's a small plastic piece inside that you remove first. How much did you pay for the set from OK?.

Edited October 25, 2009 by sergiu

[txhokie4life]

Swap the keyfob. The ignition will "read" the chip from the keyfob. It's easy to swap, it's a small plastic piece inside that you remove first. How much did you pay for the set from OK?.

I believe the RFID receiver is located in the steering column -- does the FOB actually have to be connected

to the key in the ignition (i.e. is there some interaction between the key and the ignition and the RFID electrically?)

or is it sufficient to just be close to the steering wheel?

Anyone know the range of the RFID?

thanks,

mike

[tholyoak]

The receiver is located on the ignition switch body immediately behind the dash opening for the switch. The key head must be adjacent to the receiver, so swap the blade (or pill) , it takes 5 seconds.

-Todd

Edited October 25, 2009 by tholyoak

[pk2]

Couple of wierd things I've experiencein part because My car sat in a rice patty overnight long ago and part in messing around with everything.

1) The imoblizer can work partiality

2) The Pill in the keyfob is not necessary to keep the motor running, only to start it (go figure)

3) You can bump start the car (put above observation together with this fact...???)

3) It's really easy to jump the starter with jumper cables from the (a) battery (even though it probably won't start). You can rule alot out doing this (bad ground for instance, the obvious, starter motor doesn't work, wherever else it takes you)

4) Convertibles leak, I've had a ton. Wet electrical contacts get corroded and stop making sufficient contact. Some time you can see it; green or white fuzz, sometimes you can't. Sometimes they'll even show a voltage but there's no current. Flickering lights is a great indicator.

Anyway, use your logic and a wiring diagram, with those fundamentals you can follow up allot of tangential "if/then's" and derive alot of information aside from the obvious.

Regards, PK

Edited October 25, 2009 by pk2

[Guest]

I would swap the whole keyfob not only the pill, so you have a working remote too.

Sergiu

Edited October 25, 2009 by sergiu