Clunking Noise From the back of the car

[0Bosxter0]

Hey all,

I know this topic has been covered a few times but im getting a little confused on what part is what...

I have a 2000 Boxster with about 62K miles.

Driving between 5-30mph I get a hollow "clunking" sound coming from the rear (sounds like drivers side) of the car. It seems to more audible with the top up but that may just be due to a quieter cabin. Ive seen reference throughout this site and the internet that its likely either the rear sway bar or the rear control arm. I currently have the car on jack stands and I've been feeling around to see if anything is noticeably loose and I cant find anything. I also cant get the bolts on the rear swaybar to budge so I don't think thats the culprit.

Ive included a graphic to note my issue. The item circled in blue (labeled with a 1) is referenced here as the "suspension arm". I've seen the same piece referenced elsewhere as the rear control arm?

Is it this piece circled in blue that is the likely causing my clunk or is is the piece circles in red (labeled with a 2) that is more likely the problem? My initial thought was that it was piece circled in blue, however looking at the diagram the piece circled in red seems more "mechanically" likely as it moves up and down.

Thoughts or suggestions?

-Ben C.

ps. The image came from piperboxster.com

[ericinboca]

Hey all,

I know this topic has been covered a few times but im getting a little confused on what part is what...

I have a 2000 Boxster with about 62K miles.

Driving between 5-30mph I get a hollow "clunking" sound coming from the rear (sounds like drivers side) of the car. It seems to more audible with the top up but that may just be due to a quieter cabin. Ive seen reference throughout this site and the internet that its likely either the rear sway bar or the rear control arm. I currently have the car on jack stands and I've been feeling around to see if anything is noticeably loose and I cant find anything. I also cant get the bolts on the rear swaybar to budge so I don't think thats the culprit.

Ive included a graphic to note my issue. The item circled in blue (labeled with a 1) is referenced here as the "suspension arm". I've seen the same piece referenced elsewhere as the rear control arm?

Is it this piece circled in blue that is the likely causing my clunk or is is the piece circles in red (labeled with a 2) that is more likely the problem? My initial thought was that it was piece circled in blue, however looking at the diagram the piece circled in red seems more "mechanically" likely as it moves up and down.

Thoughts or suggestions?

-Ben C.

ps. The image came from piperboxster.com

The one circled in red is the lower control arm. It attaches on one end to the suspension subframe and then with the ball joint to the wheel carrier on the other end. In the rear, it adjusts camber via a bolt with a cam shaped face on both ends - as you rotate it, the control arm moves in and out. This adjusting bolt passes through a bushing pressed into the arm.

The one circled in blue is called all sorts of things - track arm and thrust arm seem to be common names. It attaches on one end with a simple bolt through a bushing on the control arm, and the other end attached to the chassis up behind the forward plastic fender liner. You really have to remove the fender liner to see where it attaches and to inspect and determine if it is tightly attached up in there.

The last one on the rear not in the picture is the toe adjusting arm. It attachs to the subframe and to the wheel carrier and uses a similar cam like bolt to adjust toe in and toe out in the rear.

All of these suspension pieces have bushings or spherical bearings that need to be checked; all the nuts and bolts need to checked for tightness. You need to do your best to try and move the assembly up and down to see if you can repeat and isolate the noise.

I would lean to the sway bar like you mention. Even if the bolts are rusty and tight, are the sway bar bushings still in good shape? You should be able to see the edges of them squeezing out of the U shaped pice that attaches to the frame. Are the drop links tight and not hitting the control arm when moving up and down?

And don't forget to check the strut mounts at the top of the coil overs - they to can wear out and allow movement up top.

Hope that helps.

BTW - the image is of the front suspension. The subframe in the rear is quite different.

Edited October 15, 2009 by ericinboca

[0Bosxter0]

Hey all,

I know this topic has been covered a few times but im getting a little confused on what part is what...

I have a 2000 Boxster with about 62K miles.

Driving between 5-30mph I get a hollow "clunking" sound coming from the rear (sounds like drivers side) of the car. It seems to more audible with the top up but that may just be due to a quieter cabin. Ive seen reference throughout this site and the internet that its likely either the rear sway bar or the rear control arm. I currently have the car on jack stands and I've been feeling around to see if anything is noticeably loose and I cant find anything. I also cant get the bolts on the rear swaybar to budge so I don't think thats the culprit.

Ive included a graphic to note my issue. The item circled in blue (labeled with a 1) is referenced here as the "suspension arm". I've seen the same piece referenced elsewhere as the rear control arm?

Is it this piece circled in blue that is the likely causing my clunk or is is the piece circles in red (labeled with a 2) that is more likely the problem? My initial thought was that it was piece circled in blue, however looking at the diagram the piece circled in red seems more "mechanically" likely as it moves up and down.

Thoughts or suggestions?

-Ben C.

ps. The image came from piperboxster.com

The one circled in red is the lower control arm. It attaches on one end to the suspension subframe and then with the ball joint to the wheel carrier on the other end. In the rear, it adjusts camber via a bolt with a cam shaped face on both ends - as you rotate it, the control arm moves in and out. This adjusting bolt passes through a bushing pressed into the arm.

The one circled in blue is called all sorts of things - track arm and thrust arm seem to be common names. It attaches on one end with a simple bolt through a bushing on the control arm, and the other end attached to the chassis up behind the forward plastic fender liner. You really have to remove the fender liner to see where it attaches and to inspect and determine if it is tightly attached up in there.

The last one on the rear not in the picture is the toe adjusting arm. It attachs to the subframe and to the wheel carrier and uses a similar cam like bolt to adjust toe in and toe out in the rear.

All of these suspension pieces have bushings or spherical bearings that need to be checked; all the nuts and bolts need to checked for tightness. You need to do your best to try and move the assembly up and down to see if you can repeat and isolate the noise.

I would lean to the sway bar like you mention. Even if the bolts are rusty and tight, are the sway bar bushings still in good shape? You should be able to see the edges of them squeezing out of the U shaped pice that attaches to the frame. Are the drop links tight and not hitting the control arm when moving up and down?

And don't forget to check the strut mounts at the top of the coil overs - they to can wear out and allow movement up top.

Hope that helps.

BTW - the image is of the front suspension. The subframe in the rear is quite different.

That info does help. So I suppose the point of failure can be in several areas . I think im going to wait till I get three tires/wheels back on the vehicle and on the ground before I start tugging to hard on things.

Is it possible to replace just the bushings in any of these pieces or does it require an entire new assembly?

All of these seem fairly easy to get to and work on so I think ill try and attack this "clunk" myself. If it were the swaybar would it be pretty loud? The clunk is pretty audible.

Im not sure I really understand why this noise is only present at low-mid speeds (5-30mph), can you shed some light on that? Specifically with the swaybar would cause this noise only at these speeds??

Thanks again!

-Ben

[ericinboca]

Hey all,

I know this topic has been covered a few times but im getting a little confused on what part is what...

I have a 2000 Boxster with about 62K miles.

Driving between 5-30mph I get a hollow "clunking" sound coming from the rear (sounds like drivers side) of the car. It seems to more audible with the top up but that may just be due to a quieter cabin. Ive seen reference throughout this site and the internet that its likely either the rear sway bar or the rear control arm. I currently have the car on jack stands and I've been feeling around to see if anything is noticeably loose and I cant find anything. I also cant get the bolts on the rear swaybar to budge so I don't think thats the culprit.

Ive included a graphic to note my issue. The item circled in blue (labeled with a 1) is referenced here as the "suspension arm". I've seen the same piece referenced elsewhere as the rear control arm?

Is it this piece circled in blue that is the likely causing my clunk or is is the piece circles in red (labeled with a 2) that is more likely the problem? My initial thought was that it was piece circled in blue, however looking at the diagram the piece circled in red seems more "mechanically" likely as it moves up and down.

Thoughts or suggestions?

-Ben C.

ps. The image came from piperboxster.com

The one circled in red is the lower control arm. It attaches on one end to the suspension subframe and then with the ball joint to the wheel carrier on the other end. In the rear, it adjusts camber via a bolt with a cam shaped face on both ends - as you rotate it, the control arm moves in and out. This adjusting bolt passes through a bushing pressed into the arm.

The one circled in blue is called all sorts of things - track arm and thrust arm seem to be common names. It attaches on one end with a simple bolt through a bushing on the control arm, and the other end attached to the chassis up behind the forward plastic fender liner. You really have to remove the fender liner to see where it attaches and to inspect and determine if it is tightly attached up in there.

The last one on the rear not in the picture is the toe adjusting arm. It attachs to the subframe and to the wheel carrier and uses a similar cam like bolt to adjust toe in and toe out in the rear.

All of these suspension pieces have bushings or spherical bearings that need to be checked; all the nuts and bolts need to checked for tightness. You need to do your best to try and move the assembly up and down to see if you can repeat and isolate the noise.

I would lean to the sway bar like you mention. Even if the bolts are rusty and tight, are the sway bar bushings still in good shape? You should be able to see the edges of them squeezing out of the U shaped pice that attaches to the frame. Are the drop links tight and not hitting the control arm when moving up and down?

And don't forget to check the strut mounts at the top of the coil overs - they to can wear out and allow movement up top.

Hope that helps.

BTW - the image is of the front suspension. The subframe in the rear is quite different.

That info does help. So I suppose the point of failure can be in several areas . I think im going to wait till I get three tires/wheels back on the vehicle and on the ground before I start tugging to hard on things.

Is it possible to replace just the bushings in any of these pieces or does it require an entire new assembly?

All of these seem fairly easy to get to and work on so I think ill try and attack this "clunk" myself. If it were the swaybar would it be pretty loud? The clunk is pretty audible.

Im not sure I really understand why this noise is only present at low-mid speeds (5-30mph), can you shed some light on that? Specifically with the swaybar would cause this noise only at these speeds??

Thanks again!

-Ben

You can press out old bushings and press in new ones - sometimes they are hard to find, but it is quite a bit cheaper than buying a whole new control arm. It is easy with a 20-ton shop press - and if you network with your friends enough, you will find someone that has one.

A swaybar noise would be a clunk, I think. I can see it hitting clunking against the U shaped brakcet for example.

Why you only get it as slow speeds? No clue. Would theorize that under higher speeds the load is too great to allow movement or maybe wind noise is keeping you from hearing it.

Finding noises in the suspension can be hard. Take your time, especially if you are not having any whacky tire wear or out of alignment problems.

You are looking at suspension pieces, but don't forget the e-brake is house in the rear brake hat. SOmetimes the shoes get a little hung up and can make noise, or if your e brake tension was adjusted recently, it might have been adjusted too tight and is causing the shoes to knocked around a little.

Other thing back there that can make noise is a wheel bearing. When I have lost wheel bearings on my 986S, it has never been a clunking sound, rather a roring sound under load - BUT, the guy next to me at a track event recently in his M3 had a bad rear wheel bearing, and it clunked intermittently.

[0Bosxter0]

Hey all,

I know this topic has been covered a few times but im getting a little confused on what part is what...

I have a 2000 Boxster with about 62K miles.

Driving between 5-30mph I get a hollow "clunking" sound coming from the rear (sounds like drivers side) of the car. It seems to more audible with the top up but that may just be due to a quieter cabin. Ive seen reference throughout this site and the internet that its likely either the rear sway bar or the rear control arm. I currently have the car on jack stands and I've been feeling around to see if anything is noticeably loose and I cant find anything. I also cant get the bolts on the rear swaybar to budge so I don't think thats the culprit.

Ive included a graphic to note my issue. The item circled in blue (labeled with a 1) is referenced here as the "suspension arm". I've seen the same piece referenced elsewhere as the rear control arm?

Is it this piece circled in blue that is the likely causing my clunk or is is the piece circles in red (labeled with a 2) that is more likely the problem? My initial thought was that it was piece circled in blue, however looking at the diagram the piece circled in red seems more "mechanically" likely as it moves up and down.

Thoughts or suggestions?

-Ben C.

ps. The image came from piperboxster.com

The one circled in red is the lower control arm. It attaches on one end to the suspension subframe and then with the ball joint to the wheel carrier on the other end. In the rear, it adjusts camber via a bolt with a cam shaped face on both ends - as you rotate it, the control arm moves in and out. This adjusting bolt passes through a bushing pressed into the arm.

The one circled in blue is called all sorts of things - track arm and thrust arm seem to be common names. It attaches on one end with a simple bolt through a bushing on the control arm, and the other end attached to the chassis up behind the forward plastic fender liner. You really have to remove the fender liner to see where it attaches and to inspect and determine if it is tightly attached up in there.

The last one on the rear not in the picture is the toe adjusting arm. It attachs to the subframe and to the wheel carrier and uses a similar cam like bolt to adjust toe in and toe out in the rear.

All of these suspension pieces have bushings or spherical bearings that need to be checked; all the nuts and bolts need to checked for tightness. You need to do your best to try and move the assembly up and down to see if you can repeat and isolate the noise.

I would lean to the sway bar like you mention. Even if the bolts are rusty and tight, are the sway bar bushings still in good shape? You should be able to see the edges of them squeezing out of the U shaped pice that attaches to the frame. Are the drop links tight and not hitting the control arm when moving up and down?

And don't forget to check the strut mounts at the top of the coil overs - they to can wear out and allow movement up top.

Hope that helps.

BTW - the image is of the front suspension. The subframe in the rear is quite different.

That info does help. So I suppose the point of failure can be in several areas . I think im going to wait till I get three tires/wheels back on the vehicle and on the ground before I start tugging to hard on things.

Is it possible to replace just the bushings in any of these pieces or does it require an entire new assembly?

All of these seem fairly easy to get to and work on so I think ill try and attack this "clunk" myself. If it were the swaybar would it be pretty loud? The clunk is pretty audible.

Im not sure I really understand why this noise is only present at low-mid speeds (5-30mph), can you shed some light on that? Specifically with the swaybar would cause this noise only at these speeds??

Thanks again!

-Ben

You can press out old bushings and press in new ones - sometimes they are hard to find, but it is quite a bit cheaper than buying a whole new control arm. It is easy with a 20-ton shop press - and if you network with your friends enough, you will find someone that has one.

A swaybar noise would be a clunk, I think. I can see it hitting clunking against the U shaped brakcet for example.

Why you only get it as slow speeds? No clue. Would theorize that under higher speeds the load is too great to allow movement or maybe wind noise is keeping you from hearing it.

Finding noises in the suspension can be hard. Take your time, especially if you are not having any whacky tire wear or out of alignment problems.

You are looking at suspension pieces, but don't forget the e-brake is house in the rear brake hat. SOmetimes the shoes get a little hung up and can make noise, or if your e brake tension was adjusted recently, it might have been adjusted too tight and is causing the shoes to knocked around a little.

Other thing back there that can make noise is a wheel bearing. When I have lost wheel bearings on my 986S, it has never been a clunking sound, rather a roring sound under load - BUT, the guy next to me at a track event recently in his M3 had a bad rear wheel bearing, and it clunked intermittently.

I did a quick once-over last night and the bushings all looked OK. They were all pretty consistent from what I could tell. Im going to try and get a closer look tonight after work.

You mentioned tire wear... I did have extremely bad tire wear. The insides of the tires where worn to the wire, the outsides still looked new! It was almost impossible to see the wear without taking the wheel/tire off the car! The tires dont have many miles on them, a little over 20K and I never drive the car hard. My initial thought was the previous owner just had them set aggressively...

Is there possibly a loose/broken part that would cause this kind of wear?

Respectfully,

-Ben

[ericinboca]

Hoping some others have some thoughts on this...but I am willing to pontificate! ;)

Two Qs...

Does the other rear tire show the same sort of wear?

Does the car track straight?

Does the car track straight all the time or just before or after the clunk sound?

Without seeing the tire, it is hard to know what is causing the wear, but assuming the car tracks straight, I would guess excessive negative camber. If the car crabs, then I would think toe out.

Unfortunately, I don't think it narrows down the problem for us, because a problem with any of the arms or even the strut mount could give you funky camber or toe, giving you ugly wear.

Most alignment shops will to set rear camber the same on both sides unless the customer wants different, so take a look at the other tire and see if it has the same wear. If so, and the car tracks straight, then you porbably have too much neg camber. But it doesn't explain the noise.

I don't want you to forget the possibility of the e-brake in the rotor hat or the possibility of a wheel bearing.

Here's one way to attack it...

1. Lift the suspect corner with a floor jack. Get a buddy and try to move the tire and assembly around. See what moves, if anything. See if the strut moves in the upper mount up and down or side to side - it shouldn't. See if there is any play in the three arms. The control arm should allow up and down movement around the spherical bearing at the base, but there shouldn't be any other movement. Remember that about 25 percent of the car rests on each corner, so these suspension pieces and their bushings take a lot of load before they move.

2. Thinking of the possibility of toe out causing the weird wear, look closely at the toe adjusting arm. If there is something amiss in the arm, maybe it is right sometimes, then clunks and gets out of whack and causes the strange wear or vice versa.

3. Take the tire off, and the caliper off, and grab the brake rotor at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions - try to rock it - do same at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If it rocks, then you have a bearing problem.

4. Spin the rotor listening for noise in the hat - and in the wheel bearing.

5. I still like the sway bar possibility - be sure the bushings are still surrounding the bar in that U shaped bracket.

[0Bosxter0]

Hoping some others have some thoughts on this...but I am willing to pontificate! ;)

Two Qs...

Does the other rear tire show the same sort of wear?

Does the car track straight?

Does the car track straight all the time or just before or after the clunk sound?

Without seeing the tire, it is hard to know what is causing the wear, but assuming the car tracks straight, I would guess excessive negative camber. If the car crabs, then I would think toe out.

Unfortunately, I don't think it narrows down the problem for us, because a problem with any of the arms or even the strut mount could give you funky camber or toe, giving you ugly wear.

Most alignment shops will to set rear camber the same on both sides unless the customer wants different, so take a look at the other tire and see if it has the same wear. If so, and the car tracks straight, then you porbably have too much neg camber. But it doesn't explain the noise.

I don't want you to forget the possibility of the e-brake in the rotor hat or the possibility of a wheel bearing.

Here's one way to attack it...

1. Lift the suspect corner with a floor jack. Get a buddy and try to move the tire and assembly around. See what moves, if anything. See if the strut moves in the upper mount up and down or side to side - it shouldn't. See if there is any play in the three arms. The control arm should allow up and down movement around the spherical bearing at the base, but there shouldn't be any other movement. Remember that about 25 percent of the car rests on each corner, so these suspension pieces and their bushings take a lot of load before they move.

2. Thinking of the possibility of toe out causing the weird wear, look closely at the toe adjusting arm. If there is something amiss in the arm, maybe it is right sometimes, then clunks and gets out of whack and causes the strange wear or vice versa.

3. Take the tire off, and the caliper off, and grab the brake rotor at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions - try to rock it - do same at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If it rocks, then you have a bearing problem.

4. Spin the rotor listening for noise in the hat - and in the wheel bearing.

5. I still like the sway bar possibility - be sure the bushings are still surrounding the bar in that U shaped bracket.

Yes, both tires were showing wear on the inside, it was pretty significant, great tread on the outside wire on the inside. (see Picture)

The car tracks straight for the most part, it had a slight drift to the left (drivers side) which is also the side I believe the noise is coming from but im not sure if this is because I sit on the drivers side. Im sure the noise is coming from the rear as well.

The handling doesn't change before after or during the sound. I only notice it over small bumps like tar sealed cracks or cobblestone/brick roads not over large bumps and not at speed.

I will try and check for noise in the bearing and hat tonight provided I don't get stuck at work late again... argghhh...

I'm also going to try and inspect more closely for rubber bushing wear this evening. Would a bad bushing be visible?

Ive put my hands on most of the parts in the rear wheel well and given them a good shake and not heard anything, the car is currently on 4 jack stands so I don't want to jerk it around too much. I also need to grab a few more tools, my set doesn't have the larger metric wrenches needed for some of the bolts on the suspension.

Thanks again for the assistance, you seem to be the resident expert here on this and im just a soldier trying to play mechanic! haha

[ericinboca]

I am an expert if expertise is obtained by screwing it up a dozen times!

That tire wear looks like a rub to me, not something that would happen from being out of alignment - or could be, but the camber would be ridiculous and hard to miss.

Not sure what coilovers you have or where the ride height was set. But check clearance on the spring perches, springs, coilovers under there. Maybe he had a problem and fixed it but left the tires, but it deserves a look when you get it back on the ground.

Bad bushings are usually dried out and cracked. You can tell by looking at them. Sometimes they are even split.

Try to lift the assembly straight up and down to see if the coilover moves in the upper strut mount. While I wouldn't take this to the bank, a bad strut mount - which likely means the bushing in the mount is shot or it is no longer mounted tightly - would make noise and could provide slight alignment issues.

It is frustrating because there is a lot back there that can make noise.

Edited October 16, 2009 by ericinboca

[Boxsterfahrer]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

[0Bosxter0]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

[ericinboca]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

[0Bosxter0]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

[suburban99]

Make sure you check the sway bar links. I had a similar noise in mine and it was the sway bar links.

Front and rear are the same link. It is easier to tell if they are shot when they are removed...They are easy to remove.

[Boxsterfahrer]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

Yes, it is item #8 and I can almost guaranty that replacing these will get rid of your noise. I fixed mine temporarily by peening the bushing ( described in a previous thread ) but it lasted for only 6 month and then reared it's ugly head again.

[0Bosxter0]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

Yes, it is item #8 and I can almost guaranty that replacing these will get rid of your noise. I fixed mine temporarily by peening the bushing ( described in a previous thread ) but it lasted for only 6 month and then reared it's ugly head again.

I did read that thread, I considered trying that myself but I really don't want to have take that sucker off more times than I actually need to! I have found a few local junkyards that are selling the rear control arm for around $150... But i'm a little wary of buying this piece used...

[ericinboca]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

Yes, it is item #8 and I can almost guaranty that replacing these will get rid of your noise. I fixed mine temporarily by peening the bushing ( described in a previous thread ) but it lasted for only 6 month and then reared it's ugly head again.

I did read that thread, I considered trying that myself but I really don't want to have take that sucker off more times than I actually need to! I have found a few local junkyards that are selling the rear control arm for around $150... But i'm a little wary of buying this piece used...

Check out vertex automotive (google them) - they often have new and rebuilt parts - would be a littl e more than salvage, but rebuilt will be better than salvage and cheaper than new. I have no affiliation with vertex - probably others that can provide too, but I know of this one.

[Boxsterfahrer]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

Yes, it is item #8 and I can almost guaranty that replacing these will get rid of your noise. I fixed mine temporarily by peening the bushing ( described in a previous thread ) but it lasted for only 6 month and then reared it's ugly head again.

I did read that thread, I considered trying that myself but I really don't want to have take that sucker off more times than I actually need to! I have found a few local junkyards that are selling the rear control arm for around $150... But i'm a little wary of buying this piece used...

Check out vertex automotive (google them) - they often have new and rebuilt parts - would be a littl e more than salvage, but rebuilt will be better than salvage and cheaper than new. I have no affiliation with vertex - probably others that can provide too, but I know of this one.

I would be creful regarding any used control arms since you can NOT check the bushings without actually installing them in the car and test driving the vehicle. There is no perceptiple play even in the control arms that are making the noice. That is why I purchased new from Sunset Imports.

[0Bosxter0]

My money is on the rear control arm that attaches to the body behind the driver and passenger seat. I had the same clunking noise when traveling at low speed up to 30 MPH from the rear, sounding like something was loose in the trunk. Replaced both control arms and the noise is gone. Not a cheap item about $ 628.00 for both of them. You wont be able to feel any play in the bushing but it is sill bad. BTW my car had only 40K miles on it. Hope this helps.

Boxsterfahrer,

Can you ID the part that you replaced, ive heard "control arm" used interchangeably with a few different parts of the rear suspension... In the attached picture is it the one circled in blue (labeled 1) or the one circled in red (labeled 2)??

I think you are referring to the blue circled part, thats actually the piece that I originally thought was the culprit.

It seems like its a fairly straightforward part to replace, did you change this out yourself or have the dealership do it?

-Ben

Picture you have is of the front suspension. Here is the rear.

I believe Boxsterfahrer is referring to number 8. It is the one where you have to remove the plastic fender cover to see where it attaches. Tight squeeze up in there.

ericinboca,

Thats the item I originally thought was the trouble maker. Like you mentioned ill look a little closer into the swaybar and double check all the bushings for cracks/splits. If none of that works then thats the first part ill replace!

Thanks again gentlemen!

-Ben

Yes, it is item #8 and I can almost guaranty that replacing these will get rid of your noise. I fixed mine temporarily by peening the bushing ( described in a previous thread ) but it lasted for only 6 month and then reared it's ugly head again.

I did read that thread, I considered trying that myself but I really don't want to have take that sucker off more times than I actually need to! I have found a few local junkyards that are selling the rear control arm for around $150... But i'm a little wary of buying this piece used...

Check out vertex automotive (google them) - they often have new and rebuilt parts - would be a littl e more than salvage, but rebuilt will be better than salvage and cheaper than new. I have no affiliation with vertex - probably others that can provide too, but I know of this one.

I would be creful regarding any used control arms since you can NOT check the bushings without actually installing them in the car and test driving the vehicle. There is no perceptiple play even in the control arms that are making the noice. That is why I purchased new from Sunset Imports.

Ya, thats my fear... I did so the Vertex Auto arms, they are $189 after a core exchange.

Has anyone used these, or know anyone that has??

[jjanari]

I'm getting the clunking/rattling noise from the rear (not endlinks, which I checked recently). I've ordered the aftermarket adjustable control arms made by hardrace (approx $260 for the pair), so I will try and post results.

[0Bosxter0]

I'm getting the clunking/rattling noise from the rear (not endlinks, which I checked recently). I've ordered the aftermarket adjustable control arms made by hardrace (approx $260 for the pair), so I will try and post results.

Please let me know what you think, do you have them yet or did you just order them?

[jjanari]

I don't have them yet; I should hopefully have them w/in a week or so. I learned about them from a thread off another forum and he reported good results. However, i think he sold his boxster, so no telling how they held up.

I was also considering going the vertex route, which seems like a really good bet, but thought I would give these hardrace arms a try.

[0Bosxter0]

Well I broke down and bought number eight, the rear track arm. Should be here by the end of the week. I snap her on and see what happens from there!

[theitalianflip]

Hey guys, I’m having the same exact problem. My car is a 2000 Boxster with 92K on it. My dad took a look at it and saw that the top of the rear strut mount has to much flex and may be hitting the tower. We haven’t replaced the bushing yet, but we will try to this weekend. I just wanted to throw this out there as another culprit.

BTW, my dad also took a look at all mounts, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc and all seem to be checking out well.

I will keep everyone updated as well. That noise needs to be gone, its annoying.

[0Bosxter0]

Hey guys, I’m having the same exact problem. My car is a 2000 Boxster with 92K on it. My dad took a look at it and saw that the top of the rear strut mount has to much flex and may be hitting the tower. We haven’t replaced the bushing yet, but we will try to this weekend. I just wanted to throw this out there as another culprit.

BTW, my dad also took a look at all mounts, sway bar bushings, control arm bushings, etc and all seem to be checking out well.

I will keep everyone updated as well. That noise needs to be gone, its annoying.

Ive been reading alot on this problem. I havent heard many people talking about the strut mount but its worth a look. Be sure and check your sway bar for looseness.

From what Ive been told from others that have had this problem and it 'has' been the rear track arm, because of the very small tolerances you cant tell what the problem is without replacing, or at the very least removing the part.

I ended up ordering an OEM part from pelican. I hope to have it on the car within a week. Ill update then as to whether or not it solved the issue.

[theitalianflip]

Ok, let us know how it goes. Does your sound come from the top, under the convertible cover when you go over bumps at slower speeds, and sometimes when you shift out of 1st?