Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

Recommended Posts

Posted

Wife says she thinks she has a right rear flat tire. When ever she accelerates the car sounds like the wheel is square or running over rumble strips. She has the wheel inspected and nothing. So I bring it down to the old Vivid Racing shop and put it on the lift. Probe around, smell the air, and grab the drive shaft. BAMMO. The center carrier bearing on the driveshaft has ripped apart from its rubber housing. I then hit google and do some research. Find some threads here, on Renntech.org, and basically see that another flaw of the 03 and 04 Cayenne is this drive shaft. Bad thing is there is no rebuild kit, you have to buy the whole **** drive shaft for $700! So peoples with the 04, check your drive shaft, get an extended warranty, and this is the problem!

Here are some pics.

The lovely model

cayenneshaft3.jpg

The old drive shaft

cayenneshaft2.jpg

New Drive Shaft about to be installed

cayenneshaft1.jpg

My car has 88,000 miles and I bought it used with 50K. So far it has been good except the leaking coolant pipes on top of the engine and a torque converter seal. All has been fixed and still running well. I think at 100K I will replace it for a CTT.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Get a "new" one made by same manufacturer and plan on replacing again at 50k more mi.. $200 is $200

Why rebuild for $500 when $700 all is new, it will require less labor too...wouldn't it?

Posted (edited)

My '04 cardan shaft just failed at 62K miles (Pic shows failure) . I removed the front end of the shaft from the transfer case however the rear part of the shaft seems to be locked into the rear diff shaft and won't move. I removed six 12mm triple square bolts but the shaft just will not pull out. <_<

Please help!

I've used a hammer, pry bar and come along all at the same time and it still wont break free.

UPDATE: It finally broke free when I used a bearing puller from Harbor Freight and long 10mm bolts.

The rebuilt unit from Coloradodriveshaft.com is much more robust when compared side by side to the VW/Porsche shaft mid bearing. Shaft cost $450, bearing puller $30.

post-47842-1258857599_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1258857624_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1258857631_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1258858632_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1259208831_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1259208843_thumb.jpg

post-47842-1259208851_thumb.jpg

Edited by woeis
  • Moderators
Posted

Remove the bolts from the front transfer case. Remove the bolts from the middle bearing support. Remove the 3 bolts from the rear differential (rubber circular connecting part remains on the shaft). Lower the exhaust. Pry the rear end of shaft loose from the rear differential with a pry bar and pull out. Install in reverse order.

Posted

The rear CV joint can sometimes be a pain to remove, if all of the bolts are removed then it's just a matter of releasing the joint from the differential flange. A few blows with a heavy hammer should shift it.

Posted
Remove the bolts from the front transfer case. Remove the bolts from the middle bearing support. Remove the 3 bolts from the rear differential (rubber circular connecting part remains on the shaft). Lower the exhaust. Pry the rear end of shaft loose from the rear differential with a pry bar and pull out. Install in reverse order.

RFM, when I read the manual and TSB on replacing the cardan shaft it shows that a special "bearing centering tool" is required. Seems you have some experience with this issue. Do you have to have to centering tool or can the job be done properly without it?

My dealer looked at me oddly when I wanted to order the tool and one of their mechanics had not heard of such a tool.

Thoughts?

KR

Posted

WOW this just happened to me today after I receive my CTT 04 that have been in the mechanic for 2 weeks to change both front plates and upper motor mount. I was happy driving and then when i accelerate after 2k this strange vibration in the middle of the truck. I see a rebuilt one on vertexauto for $389 plus the old one but decide to go with a new one from suncoast for $689. Well 3k and now this ouch. :(

  • Moderators
Posted

rizzo, you can do it without the tool, if you tighten the bearing support bolts last, and make sure the support is completely free of stress and mounted straight.

Posted
rizzo, you can do it without the tool, if you tighten the bearing support bolts last, and make sure the support is completely free of stress and mounted straight.

Thanks RFM... this makes this job far more attractive since the tool, if I found a vendor for it, seems to be 245.00 US. My dealer wants 1K for parts and labor. From my dealer the shaft is 700. If I really don't need the tool then the math works out to do this myself.

Thanks again RFM!

KR

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My drive shaft went out.

I'm comparing the two vendors for the drive shaft. Coloradodriveshafts.com and VertexAuto.com

VertexAuto:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do not balance them

Price is $389.00 + tax + $500 (core they say they can reduce it to $200) + shipping (around $30.00). You have to pay for shipping the core back to them to get your $200 back (another $30.00)

so total: $449.00 plus any applicable taxes.

Coloradodriveshafts:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do a high speed balance

Price is $450.00 + tax + $50.00 (core), Shipping is included (no tax in my case I'm in CA)

so total: $450.00

I'm going with the coloradodriveshafts one, the guy I spoke with answered all my questions and other members have used their drive shafts as well.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Replaced the drive shaft, took it to a mechanic as I couldn't get to it without a lift, but now I get a vibration at 50 mph and a humming noise. could it be the new drive shaft is bad?...

the vibration goes away at higher speed but it's most noticeable at 50mph if you put a bunch of coins in the little tray by the arm rest you can hear the coins vibrating.

My drive shaft went out.

I'm comparing the two vendors for the drive shaft. Coloradodriveshafts.com and VertexAuto.com

VertexAuto:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do not balance them

Price is $389.00 + tax + $500 (core they say they can reduce it to $200) + shipping (around $30.00). You have to pay for shipping the core back to them to get your $200 back (another $30.00)

so total: $449.00 plus any applicable taxes.

Coloradodriveshafts:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do a high speed balance

Price is $450.00 + tax + $50.00 (core), Shipping is included (no tax in my case I'm in CA)

so total: $450.00

I'm going with the coloradodriveshafts one, the guy I spoke with answered all my questions and other members have used their drive shafts as well.

Posted

Bad shaft

is the frequency constant or varying ?

Replaced the drive shaft, took it to a mechanic as I couldn't get to it without a lift, but now I get a vibration at 50 mph and a humming noise. could it be the new drive shaft is bad?...

the vibration goes away at higher speed but it's most noticeable at 50mph if you put a bunch of coins in the little tray by the arm rest you can hear the coins vibrating.

My drive shaft went out.

I'm comparing the two vendors for the drive shaft. Coloradodriveshafts.com and VertexAuto.com

VertexAuto:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do not balance them

Price is $389.00 + tax + $500 (core they say they can reduce it to $200) + shipping (around $30.00). You have to pay for shipping the core back to them to get your $200 back (another $30.00)

so total: $449.00 plus any applicable taxes.

Coloradodriveshafts:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do a high speed balance

Price is $450.00 + tax + $50.00 (core), Shipping is included (no tax in my case I'm in CA)

so total: $450.00

I'm going with the coloradodriveshafts one, the guy I spoke with answered all my questions and other members have used their drive shafts as well.

Posted

Frequency is constant, between 50 and 55 mph. faster it goes away I'm having another drive sent to me, so I'll replace it and see.

Bad shaft

is the frequency constant or varying ?

Replaced the drive shaft, took it to a mechanic as I couldn't get to it without a lift, but now I get a vibration at 50 mph and a humming noise. could it be the new drive shaft is bad?...

the vibration goes away at higher speed but it's most noticeable at 50mph if you put a bunch of coins in the little tray by the arm rest you can hear the coins vibrating.

My drive shaft went out.

I'm comparing the two vendors for the drive shaft. Coloradodriveshafts.com and VertexAuto.com

VertexAuto:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do not balance them

Price is $389.00 + tax + $500 (core they say they can reduce it to $200) + shipping (around $30.00). You have to pay for shipping the core back to them to get your $200 back (another $30.00)

so total: $449.00 plus any applicable taxes.

Coloradodriveshafts:

Rebuilt drive shaft they do a high speed balance

Price is $450.00 + tax + $50.00 (core), Shipping is included (no tax in my case I'm in CA)

so total: $450.00

I'm going with the coloradodriveshafts one, the guy I spoke with answered all my questions and other members have used their drive shafts as well.

  • Upvote 1
  • 1 year later...
Posted

Anyone know the parts succession on this? In looking at my VIN# against the cardan-shaft - there are 6 different ones listed as being for my VIN. If I had to guess - Porsche/VW changed (perhaps improved?) this design quite a few times..

Posted

Anyone know the parts succession on this? In looking at my VIN# against the cardan-shaft - there are 6 different ones listed as being for my VIN. If I had to guess - Porsche/VW changed (perhaps improved?) this design quite a few times..

Latest part number for 06 Cayenne S is 955 421 020 15.

Posted

Anyone know the parts succession on this? In looking at my VIN# against the cardan-shaft - there are 6 different ones listed as being for my VIN. If I had to guess - Porsche/VW changed (perhaps improved?) this design quite a few times..

Latest part number for 06 Cayenne S is 955 421 020 15.

Found that - guess I wasn't clear. Has Porsche actually changed/improved the parts or is the newest the same old crap with a new PN?

Posted

Most people would buy the latest version, no sense in buying the old version, is there?

Indeed most people would - but it must be a language problem. We aren't communicating. The question is - is the latest version BETTER and IMPROVED over the original one(s)?

Posted (edited)

Most people would buy the latest version, no sense in buying the old version, is there?

Indeed most people would - but it must be a language problem. We aren't communicating. The question is - is the latest version BETTER and IMPROVED over the original one(s)?

Well I would hope so. That is usually what happens when a part gets replaced with a newer version. :rolleyes:

The originals last about 100,000 kms. I had mine replaced at that point with a newer version. Time will tell if it as good or better than the original shaft.

Edited by bigbuzuki
  • 10 months later...
Posted

My 2004 Cayenne drive shaft bearing just went out. Wanted to see if anyone has installed the Vertex Drive Shaft Clamping Bearing Support Mount,

(http://www.vertexaut...rt%20Mount.aspx).

It looks like a much simpler install than entire replacement of the drive shaft. At $489 its more than a rebuilt drive shaft, but would be a quicker labor job. Any thoughts?

Posted

The Vertex Bearing support mount has been discussed here before and on Rennlist. It seems that it transfers more vibration (being that the material is stiffer) into the cabin. Time will tell how the longevity of it is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.