Is the oil extraction pump supposed to be hard to turn?

[ninsei]

Hi. On my 2000 C2, I have a minor oil leak at the 4-5-6 cyl oil extraction pump. So I removed the 4 M6 screws. After removing the pump, when I try to turn it by hand, it turns easily but every 1/2 turn or so, it hits a point where it gets hard to turn, then easy again? Is that normal? I ask cause this is the second time I've removed/replaced (with new oring) this thing and it still leaks.

[ninsei]

Bump.

[txhokie4life]

Bump.

Not sure about the turning, but if the oring is not sufficient --

Is there any surface blemishes?

Maybe using a "backup" gasket where you use the same material they

put on for the oil sump cover.

I'll be out at the shop tonite -- and look to see if that is even possible.

m

[ninsei]

Bump.

Not sure about the turning, but if the oring is not sufficient --

Is there any surface blemishes?

Maybe using a "backup" gasket where you use the same material they

put on for the oil sump cover.

I'll be out at the shop tonite -- and look to see if that is even possible.

m

Thanks. both surfaces *look* smooth. I was thinking the same thing about using and oring *and* sealant (i will try that this weekend). i ask about the hard to turn thing cause, i was thinking, if it's not supposed to do that (i.e. if my pump is bad), and it did do that, it may cause undo vibration that could cause the oil to get thru.

[wvicary]

Could be hard to turn if there is still oil that is being compressed internally. I can recommend loctite 518 sealant and be sure to torque the pump correctly.

[ninsei]

Could be hard to turn if there is still oil that is being compressed internally. I can recommend loctite 518 sealant and be sure to torque the pump correctly.

ok, thx. I have a similar gasket maker sealant on hand. I plan to use both the stock oring *and* sealant. That should be ok, right?

[wvicary]

I'm not sure what sealer you plan on using but follow the old rule of less is more. No need to apply loads of sealer to the area and be sure to clean everything off with something like brake clean as most sealer will not adhere to an oily surface. You might also coat the retaining threads with sealant to stop oil migrating up the threads.

[ninsei]

I'm not sure what sealer you plan on using but follow the old rule of less is more. No need to apply loads of sealer to the area and be sure to clean everything off with something like brake clean as most sealer will not adhere to an oily surface. You might also coat the retaining threads with sealant to stop oil migrating up the threads.

Hi. I tried *again*. ;-) This time I used a little sealant next to the new Oring. I used a non-setting sealant called Hylomar Universal Blue. New bolts, torqued to ~12 nm. Stayed dry for a couple of days, now it leaks again (though only very little so far). 'didn't know what else to do so I ordered a new pump, I'll try again with that. Even minor oil leaks annoy the heck out of me.

[txhokie4life]

I'm not sure what sealer you plan on using but follow the old rule of less is more. No need to apply loads of sealer to the area and be sure to clean everything off with something like brake clean as most sealer will not adhere to an oily surface. You might also coat the retaining threads with sealant to stop oil migrating up the threads.

Hi. I tried *again*. ;-) This time I used a little sealant next to the new Oring. I used a non-setting sealant called Hylomar Universal Blue. New bolts, torqued to ~12 nm. Stayed dry for a couple of days, now it leaks again (though only very little so far). 'didn't know what else to do so I ordered a new pump, I'll try again with that. Even minor oil leaks annoy the heck out of me.

where exactly is the leak coming from?

I just installed two pumps back in an engine I am working on yesterday (let hope they don't leak), The pump itself was a really tight fit.

Is it leaking around the outside -- or from the micro encapsulated bolts (the torx head ones). Manual says

to replace them each time you redo the oil pump.

mike

[ninsei]

difficult to tell. it's either the bolts or the bottom half of the circular pump. I used regular bolts and put some sealant on them. regarding the bolts, I don't see how oil can leak by the bolts. the oring (and sealant in my case) is positioned before the oil from the cylinder head could get to the bolt holes. But I did put sealant around the bolts anyway.

[txhokie4life]

difficult to tell. it's either the bolts or the bottom half of the circular pump. I used regular bolts and put some sealant on them. regarding the bolts, I don't see how oil can leak by the bolts. the oring (and sealant in my case) is positioned before the oil from the cylinder head could get to the bolt holes. But I did put sealant around the bolts anyway.

I think the ones that they were referring to in the manual are torx head bolts that connect the cover to the pump itself. So there are 8 bolts,

4 outside (10mm) and 4 inside (T25?). The T25s have mini washers, and what looks to be a mini-oring or something.

These would be exposed directly to the oil on the business side of the pump oring.

Mike

[ninsei]

yep I saw those bolts too when i removed the pump and that makes sense that those really need to be sealed. I guess I'll try again with a new pump, hoping the old one was somehow defective causing it to leak.