996 Convertible issue

[orphanator]

2002 996

Guys, hope you can help. I am having a problem with my top that similar threads have addressed yet with some minor differences which seem to be pointing to a different kind of fix. (I have already topped up the hydrolic fluid by follwing the process in one of the treads...excellent instruction).

Steps:

A.) Either by the key or the rocker switch the top starts to open and and completes the close but the lid does not finish it's closing. At first I would just giggle the lid a bit, hit the button and then it would finish the cycle. It would go weeks without incident and then start up again.

B.) It is now at a point where once it is at the "Lid stuck" point it must sit for at least 15 minutes before it engages again and finishes the cycle. This is why I thought the fluid top up was the answer, thinking it needed time to "collect". (This seems to be the problem that poster "Izzy" had).

C.) If I hit the rocker switch before I give it time to sit I can hear a faint click coming from the rear that matches the rocker switch "click".

What seems strange is that it doesn't make sense that waiting the 15 minutes would aid an electrical problem...

Forgot to mention that it only occurs on the down cycle.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

Edited September 14, 2009 by orphanator

[wross996TT]

perhaps locking mechanism/sensor needs adjusting...

[orphanator]

Guys, really need your help!! Wross, thanks I checked and it did not fix the issue. I have determined that the muted click occurs on a 2 second count...It is coming from directly behind the driver's side rear seat, the area that contains the relay switchs and such. Is there a specific fuse/switch/relay that is attributable to this issue?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....

[wross996TT]

Guys, really need your help!! Wross, thanks I checked and it did not fix the issue. I have determined that the muted click occurs on a 2 second count...It is coming from directly behind the driver's side rear seat, the area that contains the relay switchs and such. Is there a specific fuse/switch/relay that is attributable to this issue?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....

What is your exact model? Do you have any aftermarket top equipment? You checked the micro switch(es)? Are the flaps operating?

have you looked at this thread?

Fuse is D3

Edited November 24, 2009 by Loren
fixed link

[DWPC]

Guys, really need your help!! Wross, thanks I checked and it did not fix the issue. I have determined that the muted click occurs on a 2 second count...It is coming from directly behind the driver's side rear seat, the area that contains the relay switchs and such. Is there a specific fuse/switch/relay that is attributable to this issue?

Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....

This is just a hunch, but it sounds like an electric motor with a built-in thermal protection that works like a slow-blow fuse. Heats up from excess current (load); shuts off, then comers back when it cools in 15 minutes. I'd guess that either something in the top mechanism is binding and causing too much load on the motor and overheating it, or the motor itself has a problem.

[orphanator]

It is an 02 C2. No new mods...The flaps are cool, thanks for all your effort on this. I have read every concievable link on this site regarding top malfunctions and what seems strange is except for the low fluid levels everyone seems to have just a slightly different issue with slightly different symptoms...DWPC's idea about the overheated motors sounds like an answer, now I just need to figure out which %^$*#(@ one it is :) Anyone have any idea before I just start replacing em' all?

On another note, I am about to replace my fourth HID headlight. I found the DIY link on this recently and decided to "DIY". After looking at the bulb I could not believe that this thing could cost $250 a pop so I googled it and found them ranging from $60-$100 each. I understand dealer markups but this seems unbelievable... They claim to be the same exact bulb. Has anyone purchased these?

One last question...I bought side skirts recently, they came unpainted in a matte black. My intention was to paint them arctic silver to match the car but after mocking them up the black looked interesting. The vast majority of those I asked really liked the black. I am really on the fence about it so I figure I should ask the experts...

Pics are attached...thoughts?

[phillipj]

I have never seen that done before... Perhaps it works with your black centered rims. I personally would paint them to match the car but it's your baby.

Beautiful car by the way!!

:cheers:

[DWPC]

Anyone have any idea before I just start replacing em' all?

You (or an automotive electric specialist) can put an ammeter on each motor circuit and find out which one is overloaded. Then you can hopefully track down the source of the increased load. I think its more likely that the problem is a mechanical bind in the top mechanism somewhere than the motor itself. I'm not familiar with the cab top system, but if it has gearboxes, that's where I'd look first.

Edited November 25, 2009 by DWPC

[JeTexas]

If I was of the mind to leave the sideskirts black, I'd put a black chin spoiler on the car and maybe do some black trim around the lower edge of the rear valence - but personally, I'd paint them silver. It reminds me of high school when we'd buy body kits for our Mustangs but couldn't afford to paint them for a year, so we'd drive around with mismatched primer parts.

[wvicary]

You need to get the codes accessed for the top. There are many reasons for the top acting up and if a limit isn't reached in a said amount of time the top will stop moving. One thing to check is that the clam shell is moving the same distance side to side. The rack mechanism that operates the clam shell can break teeth and cause it to go out of time by as little as 2mm and cause the top to time out.