MY2003 Boxster-S Doesn't Start...

[graylens]

Hello everyone,

I have a problem that *may* be related to my ignition switch. For the past year, after starting the Boxster, in order for the radio and A/C to come on, I have to slightly click the key over to the left after starting. Then, recently, about 1 out of 40 times I'd turn the key to the start position and nothing would happen -- the engine would not turn over, although sometimes I could hear a large blower (probably the radiator fan or equivalent). I'd "fix" this by disconnecting the neg battery cable (probably resetting the ECU) and then I'd start right up.

I was willing to live with this minor inconvenience until last night...and my trick no longer worked. However, I was able to attach jumper cables and the Boxster started on the first try. When I drove it home to the garage, it again does nothing when the key goes to the start position.

I suspected a dead battery, took it out and it tests fine, although it is an original Porsche battery, 5+ years old, and I live in Arizona, and I'm dubious that Autozone can test the 580 amp rated load.

I've read lots of posts about how shoddy the ignition switch is, but since it started fine after the jump, and then didn't again, I'm thinking it's not the switch. Suggestions? Is it the alternator or voltage regulator when it doesn't turn over or even do a continuous clicking?

Thanks in advance,

Keith

[phillipj]

Sounds like the switch to me... It's a relatively easy and cheap DIY. Replace it and se if it solves your problem. Do a search here for DIY instructions.

5 year old battery should be replaced as well. Just good preventative maintenance..

Good luck

Edited September 9, 2009 by phillipj

[graylens]

Sounds like the switch to me... It's a relatively easy and cheap DIY. Replace it and se if it solves your problem. Do a search here for DIY instructions.

5 year old battery should be replaced as well. Just good preventative maintenance..

Good luck

I think I will replace the switch just on general principles (because it doesn't work perfectly like the rest of the car) and I now know I won't have to re-key, thanks to info in these excellent forums. I'm fairly certain that it is not the underlying cause, due to the consistency of what happened before/during/after the jump start, and how disconnecting the battery always fixed the problem until two nights ago.

I'll do a full search, but does anyone know right away the best ignition swtich part that is compatible with my 2003 Boxster-S? I've seen eBay, VW part numbers -- and Porsche no longer sells the right part?

I did buy a new battery as well. However, I have a feeling this will just cover up the problem for a few months. I'll install it tonight and let everyone know my results.

:renntech:

[graylens]

Well, I did lookup part numbers and such and this seems to be a good deal for the plastic part of the ignition switch:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-Box...p4506.m20.l1116

...I didn't look at Sunset Imports or Pelican yet though...

My question is, do I need to replace the entire lock assembly due to my problem? In that after starting (when it starts... :rolleyes: ) I need to click it slightly to the left for the radio to come on? I've never had a problem with the keylock "eating" my key and it getting stuck as many of you have reported...

[Cassiebox]

no you just need the electrical portion.

Cheapest place I've found them is from AutoHausAz. Here's a link to the part Might as well go ahead an order some add'l supplies (oil filter, air filter, plugs, etc.) to get their $50 free shipping.

and a link to the DIY R&R

Once you contort yourself in the driver's footwell upside down you can get this changed out in no time!

Good luck :)

[graylens]

Put the new battery in tonight, and as most of you suspected, it didn't start, so it must be the switch. I closed the front trunk after replacing the plastic shield on the battery, and for now it starts right up.

Thanks for the AutoHausAZ link. They're local to me, so I'll go try to get the switch Monday. Gawdz, this forum is awesome -- how much money would I be into the stealership before they solved this problem? If I'd listened to you guys in the first place, I'd only be out $8.95 + sales tax. Anyone want a new Porsche battery?

I'll take the bad switch out tonight and leave my favorite device for enforcing my will on my location at rest for a couple days.

Thanks again,

Keith

[graylens]

OK, I got the sucker out this morning. It was a bit of a PITA, in that I'm 6'3" so I opted to take the left air flow vent out, so I wouldn't spend as much time on my back. The final #20 Torx screw behind the light switch was deeply recessed and (of course) none of my Torx bits attached to an extender that would go in.

A trip to Home Depot procured a Husky Torx screwdriver & bit set with a thin extender, and they also had two "micro screwdrivers" which worked awesome on the screws holding in the switch. My cost out the door for the tools was just over $8. Once I had the tools, the whole process took less than 5 minutes, and I was able to do it all while sitting in the seat.

The steering wheel locked while I was down there getting the air-flow ducts out, and I couldn't unlock it when I got back up. I'm hoping this is a side-effect of the switch being broken.

I'll try to stop by AutoHausAZ tomorrow, hopefully they'll deal with drop-bys.

[graylens]

Replaced the ignition switch last weekend (AutoHausAZ does not take walk-ins, they had to mail it to me, arrived in two days). Everything went smoothly, but keep in mind that the screw holding in the air vent tunnel is different than the other three that hold in the vent, I thought I had stripped it.

Anyways, car starts up fine, and I drove it for two days with no problems. The key now returns after starting to where it should be, instead of requiring me to click it over slightly.

However, it again wouldn't start at the Subway nearby where it broke down before. A few minutes of fiddling with the fuse box and pumping the clutch in-and-out, I started up fine. When it wouldn't start, every light on the dash would stay on, and there was no "clicking" sound or equivalent. I'll do a search again, but what happens when the clutch pedal sensor is faulty?

[graylens]

OK, had the car out for a spin tonight, and it refused to start twice (the two times that I returned in less than 10 minutes). This time, the only thing I did was pump the clutch pedal 3 or 4 times and she'd start right up. With this rigorous analysis I assume it is the clutch interlock sensor that's preventing me from starting.

I'll do a full search, but is it possible it just needs adjusting? Or should I just spring for the $25 switch and pop it in?

Keith

[graylens]

It's been a couple weeks, and it has started flawlessly, so I can state with 90% confidence that it was the clutch-interlock switch. Unless anyone out there has a compelling reason otherwise, it's my intention to leave it bypassed. There's a whole Federal Government now dedicated to being my nanny, so perhaps if I'm dumb enough to grind my transmission or drive my Boxster through the garage wall, I'll qualify for a bailout. :rolleyes:

[pk2]

It's been a couple weeks, and it has started flawlessly, so I can state with 90% confidence that it was the clutch-interlock switch. Unless anyone out there has a compelling reason otherwise, it's my intention to leave it bypassed. There's a whole Federal Government now dedicated to being my nanny, so perhaps if I'm dumb enough to grind my transmission or drive my Boxster through the garage wall, I'll qualify for a bailout. :rolleyes:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

In litigious times all I can say is I bypassed as much of that stuff I could long ago. Just not worth it to be stuck. I also hacked the electrical top. Can be a pain to be wrenching on your handbrake trying to get the parking light ro come as it starts to rain.

As to the any nanny state I believe these are global feature (nanny world) In this country did you know due federal and state cutbacks (since Regan) a student driver requires something like a mere 24 hours of instruction to receive a license to drive/kill? In Germany it's something like one year of intensive regular classes at cost to you of around 15k to you. It's a wonder Porsche doesn't supply a Michelin man like airbag suit for the cars headed.

They've been successfully sued by an 100% at fault, very drunk woman, durring her first time behind the wheel of a Turbo Carrea. Almost put Porsche out of biz.

PK