Is mobil 1 10W40 HighMilage OK for my 2001 Box?

[mptoledo]

I am sure the Oil debate has been beaten to death but I am still not sure of what to put in my box. I was all ready to go get some synthetic oil and do my change, then I got stupid and googled the subject. Good frickin God, I found it harder the chooese the oil than to change it.

In my extensive research I have discovered a few things. Never, Ever use xxW30. Most stores don't carry xxW40, which is the oil of choice for experts.

My box is a 2001 "S" with 60k miles. I have it narrowed down between 2 oils that are available in my limited area. Mobil 1 10w40 high milage, and Catrol syntec xxW40.

Any quick thoughts on the Highmilage mobile?

[Rob in CO]

I am sure the Oil debate has been beaten to death but I am still not sure of what to put in my box. I was all ready to go get some synthetic oil and do my change, then I got stupid and googled the subject. Good frickin God, I found it harder the chooese the oil than to change it.

In my extensive research I have discovered a few things. Never, Ever use xxW30. Most stores don't carry xxW40, which is the oil of choice for experts.

My box is a 2001 "S" with 60k miles. I have it narrowed down between 2 oils that are available in my limited area. Mobil 1 10w40 high milage, and Catrol syntec xxW40.

Any quick thoughts on the Highmilage mobile?

I have a 2001 S with about 55K miles and I did the same research before my last oil change a few months ago. I went with the Mobil 1 10/40 High Mileage and like it so far. No real noticeable difference except maybe a bit quieter, especially on start up. I think the oil discussion is a bit overdone and any that meet the standards are fine for a street car. My opinion and I know that MANY others disagree. Given the age of my car, the additional additives in the HM formula seemed like a good idea. I also like that you can buy it easily at Wal Mart in the 5 quart jugs.

[mptoledo]

Hey I appreciate the reply, I am thinking along the same lines as you with the additives. Mobil states the additives won't effect your engine if they aren't needed.

Jake Raby(guru/expert on the subject) chimed in on the 986 forum, but couldn't/wouldn't give me a difinitive answer. I am sure it is due to legal reasons, but it kind of sucks when someone knows something that could really help a fellow Porsche owner and won't/can't help me. I am looking to keep this car for quite awhile and would rather not put in crap oil that could hurt my engine.

[Rob in CO]

Hey I appreciate the reply, I am thinking along the same lines as you with the additives. Mobil states the additives won't effect your engine if they aren't needed.

Jake Raby(guru/expert on the subject) chimed in on the 986 forum, but couldn't/wouldn't give me a difinitive answer. I am sure it is due to legal reasons, but it kind of sucks when someone knows something that could really help a fellow Porsche owner and won't/can't help me. I am looking to keep this car for quite awhile and would rather not put in crap oil that could hurt my engine.

I'm sure you looked at Jake's site and the information they have. I can see how he wouldn't endorse/not endorse one brand over another. I have heard a few things about the additives potentially fouling catalytic converters but I have used similar products in other cars for many years and never had a problem, nor have I known anyone personally who has had anything like that happen.

I will probably keep running this stuff. I might do a used oil analysis at the next change but other than that, I am not going to worry about it. Good luck.

[mptoledo]

yep I read just about everything in the past week. I even had to read charles navarro's stuff twice(very technical). http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html#Z2 In one breath he says Mobil is crap, in the next paragraph he says "We do not recommend high-mileage oils or high-mileage/stop leak/stop smoke additives because of the questionable formulation of some of these lubricants. Although not always the case, some high-mileage oils share the same improved HTHS viscosities and higher levels of anti-wear additives, such as with Mobil 1 10w40 High Mileage formulation"

So "frick" it, I just picked up 2 big*(5q each) Mobil 1 HM 10w40 at walmart for $22 each.

I refuse to do any research on oil filters, as it would probably kill me!! I am going with K&N Gold. I have never heard anything bad about K&N.

what I came away with is:

1.) stay away from xxW30 weights.

2.) oil companies are caving to epa's pressure and oil today isn't as good as oil yesterday(most cases)

3.) Nobody wants to go out on a limb and promote one of the oils(unless they are selling it).

4.) For an educated person, who is "anal" about researching stuff before doing it, this really sucks!!!

Edited July 27, 2009 by mptoledo

[GoodVibeGroove]

I use Mirox SynLube in my 99" and it works great. I put it in over 5 years ago, when I bought my car used with 29,500 miles. The car now has 113,800 miles on it, and I have NEVER changed the oil. Mirox says it is good for 150k, car runs perfect on it, and it saves me so much time in not having to change the oil any more.

[mptoledo]

Wow, thats insane. I have never heard of it. No offense but it sound crazy to wait that long. But if it works then kudos to you !!

[usaf-lt-g]

Wow, thats insane. I have never heard of it. No offense but it sound crazy to wait that long. But if it works then kudos to you !!

Just an FYI. But if you can wait a few days to have the oil shipped to your house. You can get 9 qts of Mobil 1 0W/40 Synthetic from Sunset Imports for $44 total. I paid $4 a qt from them.

[mptoledo]

Does sunset run those specials a lot? I already picked up two 4.? liter jugs(5 quarts)from wallyworld for $22 each. Now they are the Mobile 1 10w40 high mileage. I plan on putting them in this week as soon as I get my filters(oil/gas/fuel). I used autopartswarehouse.com They were the cheapest by far and gave free shippping. I just need to get the washer clamp thingy that helps seal the new oil plug.

I might even clean the throttle body if i have time. I have been using pedros site. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/DIY%20Projects.html

i find it easy with his step by step help. I did the serpentine belt last week. Only took about 15 minutes and was quite easy. I like doing that kind of stuff myslef as I get to know the car more so than paying somebody a lot of stupid money to do the same thing.

[Rob in CO]

Does sunset run those specials a lot? I already picked up two 4.? liter jugs(5 quarts)from wallyworld for $22 each. Now they are the Mobile 1 10w40 high mileage. I plan on putting them in this week as soon as I get my filters(oil/gas/fuel). I used autopartswarehouse.com They were the cheapest by far and gave free shippping. I just need to get the washer clamp thingy that helps seal the new oil plug.

I might even clean the throttle body if i have time. I have been using pedros site. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/DIY%20Projects.html

i find it easy with his step by step help. I did the serpentine belt last week. Only took about 15 minutes and was quite easy. I like doing that kind of stuff myslef as I get to know the car more so than paying somebody a lot of stupid money to do the same thing.

DIY is the way to go for alot of stuff and Pedro's site (and others) have been a great help to me. Since last fall I have done a coolant tank replacement, serp belt, removed and cleaned throttle body, replaced motor mount, CV boots, AOS and removed the front bumper to thoroughly clean the radiators. Some are time consuming but not difficult if you take it slow and follow the steps.

I went with another Mahle (stock) oil filter. Is the K&N an insert or a full can setup? I kind of like the 2 piece stock setup since it allows for a very thorough inspection of the element for foreign matter. Mine was clean.

Good luck with your projects.

[usaf-lt-g]

Does sunset run those specials a lot? I already picked up two 4.? liter jugs(5 quarts)from wallyworld for $22 each. Now they are the Mobile 1 10w40 high mileage. I plan on putting them in this week as soon as I get my filters(oil/gas/fuel). I used autopartswarehouse.com They were the cheapest by far and gave free shippping. I just need to get the washer clamp thingy that helps seal the new oil plug.

I might even clean the throttle body if i have time. I have been using pedros site. http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site/DIY%20Projects.html

i find it easy with his step by step help. I did the serpentine belt last week. Only took about 15 minutes and was quite easy. I like doing that kind of stuff myslef as I get to know the car more so than paying somebody a lot of stupid money to do the same thing.

As far as I know, that price hasn't changed. I just did an oil change 2 weeks ago, and that was the price. Sunset has always been my #1 place for parts including oil. In my opinion, it's MUCH better to get the 0W40 over the 10W40, especially when you can get it for this cheap. Give them a call, it's worth it.

:sunset:

[mptoledo]

Parts Ordered

1997-2009 Porsche Boxster K&N Oil Filter Oil Filter Price: $11.85 Qty: 1 Part #: K33HP7011

Its the insert piece with gasket thingy. I plan to change my oil every 7k miles or at least once a year.

I need to do my plugs. Have you ever done plugs? If so what sight did you use to help? Looks pretty easy but who knows. I did finally pick up a torque wrench finally. I am going with the iridium plugs.

Edited July 27, 2009 by mptoledo

[usaf-lt-g]

Parts Ordered

1997-2009 Porsche Boxster K&N Oil Filter Oil Filter Price: $11.85 Qty: 1 Part #: K33HP7011

Its the insert piece with gasket thingy. I plan to change my oil every 7k miles or at least once a year.

I need to do my plugs. Have you ever done plugs? If so what sight did you use to help? Looks pretty easy but who knows. I did finally pick up a torque wrench finally.

I can't remember if the 2001 is the one with the redesigned plug tubes or not. Someone else can verify. On my 2000 Boxster S, I changed the spark plugs, Splug Plug tubes, and Spark Plug Tube O-Rings all at once. I can't remember what year Porsche redesigned this, but after a certain year, they did away with the spark plug tubes and o-rings. The tubes and o-rings are cheap, and If you're model uses them, I suggest you replace ALL of them when you do your spark plugs. Again, Sunset Imports has the best prices on these replacements. They're really quite easy to change out.

Jack up the car on one side

Remove the rear tire (you may also want to remove the inner tire shield shroud for better access... up to you)

Remove the spark plug pack / coil

Insert a spark plug removal socket with long extension

Wratchet out the old spark plug

Take the butt end of an old screw driver and stuff it the spark plug tube until it's snug

Grab hold of the shaft end of the screw driver with a pair of lock-jaw pliers and pull it out at an angle

The Plastic spark plug tube with old o-rings should pop out with it.

Lightly lubricate the new o-rings and put them on the new plastic spark plug tube

insert the new plug tube assembly using your fingers, press it in until it's flush (you'll know when it's flush)

insert the new spark plug

wratchet in the new spark plug

re-connect the spark plug pack / coil (UNTIL YOU HEAR IT CLICK! If you don't hear it click, you haven't pressed it all the way on, and you'll throw some misfires on the engine)

Repeat for the rest of the spark plugs on this side.

Lower the car, and repeat steps above on the opposite side.

Congratulations... you're done. :)

Edited July 27, 2009 by usaf-lt-g

[mptoledo]

Yeah right. You make it sound so easy. I might go without the tubes this time. I want to get the plugs in asap.

[Rob in CO]

Yeah right. You make it sound so easy. I might go without the tubes this time. I want to get the plugs in asap.

I looked at all of the tubes when I did plugs and did not see any cracks or leaks. I decided to leave them and just went with new plugs all around. If I end up with a leak, so be it but I didn't want to bother with them if they seemed OK and they did. Getting the forward coil packs off is a pain but otherwise it is not a bad job. Doing plugs is when I discovered a split CV boot....and on it goes.

[dtownmil]

I wish I had known I could get oil from Sunset. I believe I paid over $6.50 per quart from Wal Mart for Mobil 1 0W40. (which I was skeptical about but works fine. No leaks and no smoke at startup.)

2000 2.7L

[mptoledo]

I just finished replacing my spark plugs and it went pretty easy. I would say it was a 4.5 out 10. 1=putting air in your tire, 10=engine rebuild. Actually it was pretty simple except 1 spark plug cover(closest to passenger seat). I would have given it a 3.5 or 4 but I penalized it for the time it took me to clean myself up. :eek: good God you get dirty. Oh plan to cut your nails after wards.

Total time about 1 1/2 to 2 hours. 1 1/2 if it wasnt for the darned one spark plug.

Tools needed:

1.) 6 spark plugs( I used NGK iridium $6.99 each)

2.) jack/ jack stands

3.) 2 allen wrenches, short and regular

4.) Socket for plugs

5.) a lot of Frickin degrease soap

6.) and of course Pedro's how to!! **** that guy is cool!! :cheers: http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Chang...26%20Tubes.html

Here is How I did it: 3 plugs on each side

1.) Unloosen the lug nuts on passenger rear tire.

2.) Jack one side up( I started on passenger(it is the hardest) and placed support jack under it between the tire and the seat on the round piece right before the tire.( I left the jack up just for safety)

3.) Take tire off.

4.) Take off two "plastic" bolts holding wheel well guard(towards seat). this is a must.

5.) You need two allen wrenches a short(2"-3") and a long(4"-?). this will save you time. Doesn't matter what one you start with(I started with 1st one towards rear). two allen screws need to be removed(hardest part of the job).

6.) Gently pull off coil pack(no need to unhook wires. use socket to take out old and put in new.

7.) Replace coil pack and allen screws and repeat for the rest.

8.) The one closest to the pass seat was a pain. The wire harness unhooked on me(didn't break, just unhooked). but it one end crept up the rubber guard. I spent 20 minutes trying to fish it out but I finally took scissors and cut a slit on the rubber. Peeled back the rubber and rehooked it up.

9.) put tire back on (inspect tire first, I found some glass and a small nail). The correct pattern to put the nuts back on( :D I said nuts) is the star of David pattern or pentagram. top-bottom-top right-bottom left-.....

10.) repeat steps 1 through 9 on the other side. The driver’s side only took about 10 or 15 minutes, it was a breeze.

Over all I was impressed at how easy it was, if it wasn't for the 1 spark plug coil coming off and the frickin mess, I would have given this a 3 out of 10. The old plugs looked pretty worn down and I definately noticed better idling and it seemed to purr a little better. I only started it for a few seconds as I am waiting on the oil change to test drive it to see how much of an improvement there real is.

Projects completed:

1.) Serpentine belt

2.) Sparkplugs

3.) Radio replaced

Projects to do:

Oil change,air filter, fuel filter (tomorrow depending on UPS :D )

Speaker change(rear, and fronts)

Tires (soon maybe spring)

Battery (spring).

Edited July 28, 2009 by mptoledo