spoiler not working at all ! help durametric code 9150

[gearhead]

hey guys just got my new to me 2001 black on black 996 tt with 19k miles on it. but for some reason my spoiler won't move at all. You push the button on the dash and you get the dreaded light. Tried listening for any hydraulic pump whine (like its trying to lift it) and hear nothing. It doesn't seem like its leaking or corroded. My durametric tool came up with 9150 spoiler control status: present. Not sure what that means but any help will be greatly appreciated. Also my key remote is not working, I know this is a common problem but i've tried everything (turning battery around trick, trying new battery etc.) light on remote works fine and if i lock the car with the key I can turn on the alarm system. So I am confused. I await patiently for your response.

[jpflip]

First look at fuse D7 and after start the troubleshooting as required ....

Edited July 21, 2009 by jpflip

[gearhead]

thanks for reply. the fuse is fine, looking at step 2 and i dont know what pst2 is. I assume its a porsche diagnostic tool. I just got a durametric tool but not sure how to check if it has this ability , anybody know out there. please respond soon thanks

[wross996TT]

Also my key remote is not working, I know this is a common problem but i've tried everything (turning battery around trick, trying new battery etc.) light on remote works fine and if i lock the car with the key I can turn on the alarm system. So I am confused. I await patiently for your response.

jp got you covered for the spoiler....for the remote...does the key fob flash when you push it? what does the dash light do? since you have done the typical reset, it is likely you will need the fob re-paired with the immobilizer....this requires PIWIS or PST2 (along with IPAS and 24 digit key code).

[jpflip]

Just in case you did not do this step....With the Durametric go to instrument cluster and reset the fault

[gearhead]

the remote light works perfect on the key. This is my second turbo I have owned and the key response to the buttons being pressed is the same as one my original car which had no fob issues. The alarm light on the dash can be activated by turning the key in the door and it does the usual, stays solid for a couple of seconds and then turns to a continuous flash. Again same as my original car. So I can only assume that it needs to be re-paired to the car. I am surprised to think that the car would lose the remote code for the buttons but still work for the ignition. And shouldn't the dealer have the ability to reset the code without the 24 digit code? I say this because on my original turbo I purchased a second key through ebay and had the dealer programmed it (I had the 24 digit code with new key) During the process they accidently erased my original key code and made the key useless, that I did not have the code for and within a couple of minutes of working with his computer he was able to recall the code and make both keys work again. but does anyone know the answer to my spoiler question in regards to durametric tool being able to diagnose relay/microswitch issues and troubleshoot this annoying spoiler.

[gearhead]

jpflip yes i did reset the codes but if i hit the dash button it just comes back. funny that it doesn't notice there is a problem unless you try to run it. i guess the computer doesn't check that its operable on start up like it does with airbags, abs, traction control etc. or it does and the spoiler is just stuck (from lack of use) car only has 19k on it and i am not sure even the last time it was drivin (bought at auction).

[jpflip]

jpflip yes i did reset the codes but if i hit the dash button it just comes back. funny that it doesn't notice there is a problem unless you try to run it. i guess the computer doesn't check that its operable on start up like it does with airbags, abs, traction control etc. or it does and the spoiler is just stuck (from lack of use) car only has 19k on it and i am not sure even the last time it was drivin (bought at auction).

Your right it doesn't test it . And if there is a fault it will only show the fault light when you reach 120 km/hr. If you got access to a voltmeter you should check if you got voltage going to the pump. The pump can be reach wit the removal of the panel under the engine compartment. Also check the switch on the right hand actuator under the small plastic cap to see if they are not out of position

[jpflip]

If it can help.. Here is the wiring diagram of the spoiler system...