Replacing the RMS

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

So after crawling around underneath the car, replacing the fuel filter, etc. I've decided I'm going to take on replacing the RMS myself. I've got the good ol' "slow leaker" lol.

The clutch and transmission were already re-placed brand new about a year ago and work just fine. But the oil drippage is annoying, and I want to fix it.

While I'm removing the rear bumper, flywheel, transmission, exhaust etc. and seeing that this is a nice bit o' work to accomplish, what should I consider checking and replacing in addition to the RMS while i've got all this stuff out? It looks like I'll be needing 8 new bolts for the flywheel. Anything else in terms of hardware I should replace? Anything else of importance I should inspect while under the belly of the beast?

Gracias

[txhokie4life]

Hey guys,

So after crawling around underneath the car, replacing the fuel filter, etc. I've decided I'm going to take on replacing the RMS myself. I've got the good ol' "slow leaker" lol.

The clutch and transmission were already re-placed brand new about a year ago and work just fine. But the oil drippage is annoying, and I want to fix it.

While I'm removing the rear bumper, flywheel, transmission, exhaust etc. and seeing that this is a nice bit o' work to accomplish, what should I consider checking and replacing in addition to the RMS while i've got all this stuff out? It looks like I'll be needing 8 new bolts for the flywheel. Anything else in terms of hardware I should replace? Anything else of importance I should inspect while under the belly of the beast?

Gracias

consider the IMS retrofit from LnEngineering.

mike

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

So after crawling around underneath the car, replacing the fuel filter, etc. I've decided I'm going to take on replacing the RMS myself. I've got the good ol' "slow leaker" lol.

The clutch and transmission were already re-placed brand new about a year ago and work just fine. But the oil drippage is annoying, and I want to fix it.

While I'm removing the rear bumper, flywheel, transmission, exhaust etc. and seeing that this is a nice bit o' work to accomplish, what should I consider checking and replacing in addition to the RMS while i've got all this stuff out? It looks like I'll be needing 8 new bolts for the flywheel. Anything else in terms of hardware I should replace? Anything else of importance I should inspect while under the belly of the beast?

Gracias

consider the IMS retrofit from LnEngineering.

mike

I'm not sure the IMS retrofit is available for my model yet? Last time I checked, it wasn't a DIY for an 00' S. Perhaps that's changed now?

[kbrandsma]

I replaced my AOS. Having the tranny out made it very accessible. While you have the tranny out you might as well change the transmission fluid. Also the bolt at 4:00 o'clock on the bell housing has a triple square head. Strip that and you are screwed. Ask me how I know!

[Jake Raby]

Yes, I have replaced the IMS bearing in 3 different 00 Boxster S Engines this month..

See the article on my site for an understanding of whats done... It takes 45 minutes to do the install while the car is apart for the RMS update.

[usaf-lt-g]

Yes, I have replaced the IMS bearing in 3 different 00 Boxster S Engines this month..

See the article on my site for an understanding of whats done... It takes 45 minutes to do the install while the car is apart for the RMS update.

Thanks Jake, so is the new re-engineered IMS bearing something I can purchase yet and do myself while I have this beast apart? Or is this still something that can only be done in your shop for now?

*EDIT* Just looked up the IMS retrofit kit, anyway of knowing if the 00' S 3.2 engine I have has the "single-row bearing" as you mention ahead of time? As in... is their a certian year or engine they stopped putting in the single-row (as opossed to the dual-row)? Or am I just going to have to remove it like you suggest and check it out?

Edited July 13, 2009 by usaf-lt-g

[usaf-lt-g]

I replaced my AOS. Having the tranny out made it very accessible. While you have the tranny out you might as well change the transmission fluid. Also the bolt at 4:00 o'clock on the bell housing has a triple square head. Strip that and you are screwed. Ask me how I know!

How do you know? ;) Just kidding... What size is the triple square head and is it a tamper-proof type or standard?

[Jake Raby]

There is no way to know for sure what bearing you have until the bearing flange is removed and inspected.. ALL the 00S engines I have done to date have had a dual row bearing.

Pull the car apart, remove the IMS bearing flange and verify the bearing you have.. we'll next day the parts to you AFTER we know exactly which bearing you have.

We have perfected the procedure for removal and replacement of the IMS bearing, and made some new tools to make it an easier process.. About 1-1/2 dozen people have installed the bearings to date themselves and done so successfully

[usaf-lt-g]

Can anyone recommend a decent transmission jack out there?

Also, are the following Porsche parts necessary, or can I use something else?

9591/1 - engine support bar

9538/1 - Flywheel lock

Clutch Alignment Tool (Pilot shaft alignment) - Not sure on the part #

9237 - RMS puller

9609/1 - RMS Seal Press

Am I forgetting anything, or can I possibly use something else (more easily accesibile)?

[Jake Raby]

With a tad of common sense and innovation you can do the job with only the clutch alignment tool..

I don't have any of the tools you mentioned in my shop.. well at least not with a Porsche part number... I built them all myself..

[kbrandsma]

I meant bolt #4 and it is at 8:00 o'clock, looking towards the front from the rear bumper. It is a 10mm Triplesquare standard. Go to AutoZone and buy the OEM brand. You will need to cut about a third of the end and use a crescent or open end wrench. Also the tranny jack I picked up at Harbor Freight for under $60 bucks.

To hold the flywheel in place check this post

I purchased a clutch alignment tool. I made my own RMS seal press. To see it click here. You are welcome to borrow both just pay shipping both ways.

I used 2x6's and supported my motor during the process, had the car on jack stands and used my hydraulic lift to support the car at the rear lifting point whenever possible. I never trust the lift or jack stands alone and always looked for redundancy whenever possible.

Edited July 14, 2009 by kbrandsma

[usaf-lt-g]

I meant bolt #4 and it is at 8:00 o'clock, looking towards the front from the rear bumper. It is a 10mm Triplesquare standard. Go to AutoZone and buy the OEM brand. You will need to cut about a third of the end and use a crescent or open end wrench. Also the tranny jack I picked up at Harbor Freight for under $60 bucks.

To hold the flywheel in place check this post

I purchased a clutch alignment tool. I made my own RMS seal press. To see it click here. You are welcome to borrow both just pay shipping both ways.

I used 2x6's and supported my motor during the process, had the car on jack stands and used my hydraulic lift to support the car at the rear lifting point whenever possible. I never trust the lift or jack stands alone and always looked for redundancy whenever possible.

Thanks kbrandsma,

I may take you up on that offer ;) I noticed you mention setting the RMS at 14mm instead of 13mm. The tool you used to set it, did you notch it or mark it at that point? It was my understanding that I likely have an "older version" RMS seal, and that there's a newer model # Porsche has which seams to be better in terms of ever having a "repeat leak."

Just curious on the rhyme or reason for setting it beyond the 13mm.

Thanks

[kbrandsma]

I had found an odd little contraption in my shop that just happened to be 14mm. I set the seal just a little past 13 and not quite 14mm. When you look at the place the seal goes carefully you will noticed that the opening is not perfect. Two moulded engine castings come together, so I found it difficult to gauge when it was square. I ended up using the scrap metal from my shop to measure the distance from the end of the crankshaft. To get the old main seal out, I drilled a hole in the old seal, inserted a screw and used a hammer bolt extractor from Harbor Frieight, the old seal popped right out. The hammer operates on the same principle as Porsche Tool 9237 at a fraction of the cost.

Edited July 14, 2009 by kbrandsma

[usaf-lt-g]

Does anyone have or know where I can can get Porsche Tool 9591/1 with the support bar and chain to support the engine? I called over to Sunset, and the guy said that 9591/1 is just the feet that attach to the sides of the engine compartment.

I ordered the RMS seal press tool 9609/1, RMS seal, replacement bolts, and the flywheel lock 9538/1.

[usaf-lt-g]

I ordered the OTC 4324 Stinger Engine Support Bar.

I was also going to get the $10 Clutch Alignment tool from Pelican unless someone can think of a better tool.

Also, I plan to do the 3mm hole drill into the RMS seal, and thread a sheet metal screw in. Does anyone know of a good tool I can use to extract the RMS fairly easily?

[kbrandsma]

slide hammer does the trick

[por911]

For the clutch alignment tool, I like the one in the pic.

The plastic ones seemingly always have the alignment off to some degree and make the trans difficult to re-install.

regards

[usaf-lt-g]

For the clutch alignment tool, I like the one in the pic.

The plastic ones seemingly always have the alignment off to some degree and make the trans difficult to re-install.

regards

Who makes this tool?

[por911]

Matra made the one I have. It also is the factory clutch alignment mandrel(Audi tool#3176) for certain Audi/VW models. You might check Samstagsales.com.

regards

[usaf-lt-g]

Matra made the one I have. It also is the factory clutch alignment mandrel(Audi tool#3176) for certain Audi/VW models. You might check Samstagsales.com.

regards

Thanks por911

You've been very helpful! I ordered the mandrel tool (I like to have "real" tools if it's within reason anyways).

One other thing I noticed pelican and a couple of others had this posted under "removal of transmission bolts"

This unique-looking tool is used to aid in the removal of the engine/transmission bolts. The V-Wrench holds the nut on the other side of the engine compartment so that you can remove the nut from the transmission. The V design holds the nut steady, unlike a normal wrench, and allows you to remove the bolt on the other side without the help of an assistant.

They call it the "Magnetic Box "V" Wrench (17mm)."

Is this really a helpful tool I should consider? Or should I just bypass it for now? I've got a pretty hefty tool collection and caddy already... just curious if it makes life a lot easier or not.

[usaf-lt-g]

I received my new engine support bar yesterday, and plan to start some work after today. Just curious, because the books I have don't mention this anywhere in the documentation. Probably a no brainer, but do I need to drain the transmission and the engine oil before I start dissassembling? Also, if I do need to drain the transmission, what's the correct procedure for re-filling it?

Thanks!

[usaf-lt-g]

One other question I thought of in addition to the draining question above. Can I remove the rear cross members and do the job with the car on ramps? Or will I still need to support the under body with jack stands?

[1schoir]

One other question I thought of in addition to the draining question above. Can I remove the rear cross members and do the job with the car on ramps? Or will I still need to support the under body with jack stands?

I don't think standard ramps would allow you to get the rear of the car high enough to clear the top of the transmission when you go to slide it out from under the car.

Regards, Maurice.

[usaf-lt-g]

One other question I thought of in addition to the draining question above. Can I remove the rear cross members and do the job with the car on ramps? Or will I still need to support the under body with jack stands?

I don't think standard ramps would allow you to get the rear of the car high enough to clear the top of the transmission when you go to slide it out from under the car.

Regards, Maurice.

I made some pretty high custom ramps, so I'm not so concerned about the clearance needed to drop the transmission, as I am having the car on ramps, removing the rear cross members, and having the thing drop from lack of suspension support. I remember reading somewhere that if you are removing the rear cross members the car needs to be supported by jack stands on the standard jack points. But maybe I'm "mis-informed" and concerning myself over nothing? I guess i'm looking for some verification here.

Also, I'm assuming that "yes" I need to drain the engine since I'm replacing the RMS and don't want oil spilling out. But i'm still not 100% on if I need to drain the trans as well.

[toxicavenger]

When all is said and done, I'd be interested to hear how it went for you. Also, not to discourage you but Porsche installed that "new" RMS on my '03 and 2 years later, I'm having signs of a leak again :(