Cabin Trunk Release Switch Broken

[Ajayabb]

Does anyone know how difficult it is to replace the Cabin trunk release switch assembly along the door sill.? I priced the parts at Suncoast but I wanted to know in advance how involved it is. It looks like the panel is held in by two screws but was unable to visualize them to determine if they are a torx screw or not. Any advice is appreciated

[Loren]

Model and year of your car please?

[Ajayabb]

2005 997 C2

[Loren]

1. Carefully press fastening ribs of scuff plate -arrows- outward with a small screwdriver and unclip switch for lid release.

Install is the reverse.

1. Clip in switch for lid release with the locking tabs in the fastening ribs of the scuff plate -arrows- so that they are felt to engage.

997.613.105.01.A05 is the new switch assembly -- US MSRP $78.14

Try Sunset Imports (Porsche Parts at Dealer Cost) for much better pricing.

[Ajayabb]

Thanks for the help

[PAULSPEED]

Just replaced this switch and I got it from Sunset

for $55.

You need to remove two plugs. Then loosen two Allen screws.

I think they were size ten.

Removing the switch from the trim takes some time but

just keep working it from all angles.

Fastens back together real quick.

Paul

[Ajayabb]

Just replaced this switch and I got it from Sunset

for $55.

You need to remove two plugs. Then loosen two Allen screws.

I think they were size ten.

Removing the switch from the trim takes some time but

just keep working it from all angles.

Fastens back together real quick.

Paul

Thanks Paul. What made you replace yours? For me, the plastic hood release switch became loosened and wouldnt actuate the release mechanism reliably

[PAULSPEED]

I was in a hurry and I lifted the switch to fast and broke it. I

could put it back in and make it work but I wanted to

fix it.

Paul

[355bhp]

Just replaced this switch and I got it from Sunset

for $55.

You need to remove two plugs. Then loosen two Allen screws.

I think they were size ten.

Removing the switch from the trim takes some time but

just keep working it from all angles.

Fastens back together real quick.

Paul

In the diagram, the switch looks upside down. And where are the two Allen screws and plugs? Thanks. Oh, and I broke the switch lever exactly as you did!

Edited September 5, 2009 by 355bhp

[PAULSPEED]

The picture is weird. You can find the two plugs

real easy with your hand. They are down

next to the seat. You will need to move the seat

forward or back to get at the #10 screws.

Paul

[355bhp]

The picture is weird. You can find the two plugs

real easy with your hand. They are down

next to the seat. You will need to move the seat

forward or back to get at the #10 screws.

Paul

Thanks! I'll order the switch from Sunset as soon as I can scrape the lousy $55 together! The switch still works as you said, if you fiddle with it.

[355bhp]

The picture is weird. You can find the two plugs

real easy with your hand. They are down

next to the seat. You will need to move the seat

forward or back to get at the #10 screws.

Paul

Thanks! I'll order the switch from Sunset as soon as I can scrape the lousy $55 together! The switch still works as you said, if you fiddle with it.

DONE! And it was so EASY! No allen screws; no seat fiddling; no nuthin'! It helps to eyeball the new switch to see where the little clip tabs are located, and once they pop loose, they stay stay loose. Just shove the plug back in (it can only go in one way, and no force is required) till the little locking tabs click into place, test the switches (GENTLY!) and push the assembly back into the door sill till it snaps into place.

[S2Andy]

I just bought my C2S and on day two I broke my trunk switch, (pulled it too hard) but when I got it out, found it had been broken and glued once before, and wasn't making good pressure on the switch button. Mine was repairable but I got a new switch rather than risk repeating the job.  A lot more expensive for that switch here in NZ but Continental Cars in Auckland gave me the best price.  the part no is now 997-613-105-02-A05 (the 01 has been superseded.)

 

Thanks for the guidance ref the Allen screws (metric 5mm) under the little black covers. They are a long way out towards the door so it helps to have a shortened Allen Key to fit between the seat and bulkhead.  Cut the long shaft of the allen key down to about 50mm and poke it around til you engage the Allen screws and turn about three turns out to loosen the clamping washers  These screws clamp on two vertical tangs that help retain the long cover plate on the door sill.  It is also held by push in clips (the ones that look like miniature bottle brushes) so lifting it by one end and gently working the cover out of the holes will save you breaking the plate.

Also quite tricky opening the clips to release the switch from the door cover plate.  I took the electrical part off first and then the concave retainer out of the door cover plate.  Installation was easy and the new switch works instantly.  Yahoo!  Next job is reinstalling the solenoid for the locking fuel cover!

Edited May 26, 2016 by S2Andy

[Pavelpu27]

I have just done the trunk release exchange. Taking the door sill out was easy thanks to the hints described here. But removing the switch module from the sill was real challenge. Forget the picture posted by Loren. I have tried everything and at the end I found the trick. Lay the sill on the table bottom up. Then you need a very narrow screwdriver 2 mm and you need to push it between the hold tabs of the module. There is s little space there. Just push it straight down and it unclips. There are four of tabs, two on each side. Instalation is very easy, just push the new module to the place until it clicks.

[Captain Lockheed]

On 12/03/2017 at 6:09 AM, Pavelpu27 said:

I have just done the trunk release exchange. Taking the door sill out was easy thanks to the hints described here. But removing the switch module from the sill was real challenge. Forget the picture posted by Loren. I have tried everything and at the end I found the trick. Lay the sill on the table bottom up. Then you need a very narrow screwdriver 2 mm and you need to push it between the hold tabs of the module. There is s little space there. Just push it straight down and it unclips. There are four of tabs, two on each side. Instalation is very easy, just push the new module to the place until it clicks.

I used a wide thin trim tool, tricky but it works.

[LarryHughes]

The two screws that need to be removed are 5mm allen wrenches, not "ten".

Do remove the switches and look at the failure. You will be shocked at how fragile the switches are but they are consistent with Porsche's fromage-interior approach.

I was able to repair my failed switch by using a heated finish nail to create new holes with the nail becoming a robust axle for the switch to pivot upon. I shimmed up the white plastic button that activates the electrical switch to match. When installed, it looks and feels like stock.

I find the lack of interior quality on a $60,000+ car hard to believe. SMH

[SpawnyWhippet]

My 2009 997.2 trunk switch trim is held in with 5mm allen bolts. The rear screw cannot be accessed at all without removing the drivers seat.

 

You only need to loosen them a couple of turns then pop the trim piece upwards with a plastic pry tool to release the clips.

 

It could be possible without seat removal, but you would need a L shaped allen wrench with a shank of 50 - 70mm. 

Edited May 8, 2018 by SpawnyWhippet

[LarryHughes]

I've removed and reinstalled mine twice and have never had to remove the seat. A standard 'L' shaped Allen wrench works nicely.

[SpawnyWhippet]

4 hours ago, LarryHughes said:

I've removed and reinstalled mine twice and have never had to remove the seat. A standard 'L' shaped Allen wrench works nicely.

 

Perhaps you have a different seat base, but in my car, no matter where the seat was positioned, there was a maximum of only 50mm of space between the seat and the side panel of the car, so any tool I tried to fit in would not make it with the angle of attack.

[petza914]

A small 90 degree driver bit ratchet with a short driver bit works perfectly, and those 2 screws font need to be fully removed if I remember correctly, just loosened to remove their grip on the flat part they tighten against so the inner door sill can slide up and out, unplug it with the switch mechanism still installed in the sill and then you can work on it somewhere easier. 

[ScottishGordon]

Thanks, good guides.

I've just done mine after also breaking the front release after pulling too hard.
I agree - the diagram at the top is completely wrong! Or at least it was for me.

Once you have removed the entire unit from the door sill, there are FOUR retaining clips needed to take the switch from the plastic sill. Two double clips along each long edge. I found them quite tricky to get out and snapped a small part of plastic trim from the sill trying to get it out.

I also snapped the entire sill from off the car, as I couldn't get the allen bolts out. The push in clips are so strong that it has clipped back into place perfectly and seems totally solid anyway.