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Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Wanted to upgrade my il from the typical Mobil 1 0W-40 to a 5W-40. However the only one I find is for "Turbo Diesel Trucks" and does not have the CL rating. Anyone familiar with this issue?

Edited by Dharn55
Posted

Not to start a war here, but for the summer months I am using 15W-50. It's been in for 500 miles or so, and everything seems fine.

Posted (edited)

Many of the oil formulations have replaced or reduced the zinc and phosphorus antiwear componds. This will do more damage to your engine than the industry is admitting to. However, there are many oils, including some Mobil 1 oils, that have higher antiwear agents and should be used when possible. Diesel oil is a good choice as is select "high mileage" oils. At minimum, if you use an oil with low antiwear compounds, add 3+ quarts fo either diesel or other oil having high levels of zinc and phosphorus.

Edited by 1999Porsche911
Posted

Castrol Syntec 5w40 and Pennzoil Platnum 5w40 European Formula are both Porsche approved. My preferred choice for "factory approved" is Motul 8100 5w40 (it's still SL rated).

Being that Porsche approval is not what it once was, there are TONS of excellent oils in a 5w40. Redline, Motul 300V, etc.

Posted

After talking to Charles Navarro I went with 5W-40 Motul 300V. I was gonna post my old research notes that I found yesterday. But I seem to have re-lost them. Or worse recycled them. I am fried and will post if I re-find them. You really have to do a lot of crosschecking to be knowledgeable about ratings, additives and viscosity.

Most were from LN Engineering's site and concerned minimum ratings. Maybe Charles can recap. SJ or better as minimum? The min required Euro rating escapes me entirely. There were two approved Motul 8100s, I thought one was SJ.

All I know for now is that there is less clatter from the engine at start up. We'll see how the oil analysis goes next year.

I think all car makers are pushed into politically correct "approvals." Longer maintenance intervals, enviro-friendly as opposed to car-protective fluids, etc.

Posted

Okay, found notes and my memory is verifiably difficient.

ACEA rating of A3/B3 required.

API SL is minimum as Charles said. SH or SJ are better. API calls SH obsolete. SJ and SL are current.

Motul 8100 X-cess is SL/CF and Porsche approved.

Motul 8100 Clean and Max are SM/CF and (sadly) Porsche approved.

The TSB for approved oils is available to Contributing Members as well as a host of other useful TSBs and other docs. Recommend signing up if not already in.

Posted
Many of the oil formulations have replaced or reduced the zinc and phosphorus antiwear componds. This will do more damage to your engine than the industry is admitting to. However, there are many oils, including some Mobil 1 oils, that have higher antiwear agents and should be used when possible. Diesel oil is a good choice as is select "high mileage" oils. At minimum, if you use an oil with low antiwear compounds, add 3+ quarts fo either diesel or other oil having high levels of zinc and phosphorus.

my indy told me that mobil 1 reduced the zinc and whatever compounds like u said.

so he uses lubrimoly (sp?) 0w-40 on my car. he says it's much better quality given the recent change in formula at mobil 1.

again, what i am saying above has just as much conjecture contained within as whatever statements you have made in the past, present and future. lol

Posted
Many of the oil formulations have replaced or reduced the zinc and phosphorus antiwear componds. This will do more damage to your engine than the industry is admitting to. However, there are many oils, including some Mobil 1 oils, that have higher antiwear agents and should be used when possible. Diesel oil is a good choice as is select "high mileage" oils. At minimum, if you use an oil with low antiwear compounds, add 3+ quarts fo either diesel or other oil having high levels of zinc and phosphorus.

my indy told me that mobil 1 reduced the zinc and whatever compounds like u said.

so he uses lubrimoly (sp?) 0w-40 on my car. he says it's much better quality given the recent change in formula at mobil 1.

again, what i am saying above has just as much conjecture contained within as whatever statements you have made in the past, present and future. lol

There are many things you can do to increase the antiwear additives. Many use a can of cam/lifter pre lube with every oil change. You can use a good diesel oil or racing oil and many manufacturers sell high mileage oils. All these oils can be mixed with other oils. The coating of metals in the engine with the zinc is as important, if not more, than the viscosity of the oil.

Posted (edited)

I have several questions regarding oils. One, I was searching the benzworld forum yesterday and came across a very detailed discussion about how synthetics actually start protecting the engine in the sweet spot after 3k miles up to 10k miles. Apparently backed up by analysis. More antiwear compounds present and develope from heat/pressure and thus changing your oil every 3k miles is actually detrimental to your engine life. Those are not my words, no flames. Also, i've been hearing a lot more on people claiming it's better to use dyno oil in the tranny. Also is there a agreed apon additive to use with your mobil 15 50 oil changes to boost zinc etc or is that oil good to go as is.

Edited by bmohr
Posted (edited)
I have several questions regarding oils. One, I was searching the benzworld forum yesterday and came across a very detailed discussion about how synthetics actually start protecting the engine in the sweet spot after 3k miles up to 10k miles. Apparently backed up by analysis. More antiwear compounds present and develope from heat/pressure and thus changing your oil every 3k miles is actually detrimental to your engine life. Those are not my words, no flames. Also, i've been hearing a lot more on people claiming it's better to use dyno oil in the tranny. Also is there a agreed apon additive to use with your mobil 15 50 oil changes to boost zinc etc or is that oil good to go as is.

The reduction in phosphorous in motor oil will hasten the death of engines going forward. Most people are not aware of the importance of zinc/phosphorus in protecting their engine. Its purpose is to produce a chemical reaction with metal surfaces to form a film and prevents metal to metal contact. An example of components that are better protected is the cams and tappets. The pressure between the cam and tappet can reach more than 150,000 psi. Without a film with less shear strength than the component’s metal, it does not take long to wear the components out.

The reason they are reducing the phosphorus level in oil is to prevent damage to the catalytic converters and sensors. If you don’t burn any oil like any good engine, phosphorus is not a concern. If you burn oil, then it can affect you cats. So, you can use oil with the proper levels of ZDDP and possibly shorted the life of your cats or use the new formulation and definitely shorten the life of your engine. Not a difficult choice for most people.

The ZDDP in your oil begins working by coating the metal at pressure points immediately upon engine start. Other than a newly built engine (which should use a cam/tappet lube anyway), there is always a film between components and changing your oil frequently will not change this fact. Your oil also gets thicker over time as it suspends the dirt and acids from you engine and becomes less efficient at lubricating and cooling. Whether it is better to change your oil every 3,000 miles or 10,000 miles is debatable, but keeping your oil longer does not improve the benefits of anti-wear compounds.

For those who feared that Mobil 0W40 was not protecting their engines properly to begin with, the new formulation is even more reason to avoid it like the plague.

Edited by 1999Porsche911
Posted

great reply, thank you! Many guys(i'm one) who drive old vanagon's also use ZDDP in their oil. Didn't know we could get away with it in our 911's. I don't burn oil so I'll play around with adding some.

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