engine won't start

[Dharn55]

Finally got the engine back in my car after reparing the cracked head and now it won't start. Engine cranks over fine, but I don't seem to have any fuel pressure. As i remember, when the ignition is switched on you normally here the fuel pump run to pressurize the system. My fuel pump is not coming on. I disconnected a fuel line and found no gas. Then I jumpered the connections for the fuel pump at the tank and the pump runs. Used this to pressureize the system, but it still is not coming on when the ignition is switched on or the egnine is cranked. No power at the pump connections.

any suggestions?

Edited June 7, 2009 by Dharn55

[Loren]

Fuse C4 (25A)?

Fuel pump relay? (position 13 - 996.615.101.00)

[Dharn55]

Checked the fuse, it is OK. Don't have a replacement relay, may need to do that. It was all working before I took out the engine. I am going to try to purge the air out of the fuel lines by disconnecting the return line at the fuel pump, see it that helps. Do you know if the fuel pump does come on whenever the ignition is switched on?

[Dharn55]

Seem to have fuel in the lines although I can’t hear the pump running. I did purge the air out of the system.

Ran my Durametric and came up with some fault codes as follows:

1. Motronic

a. PO336 Porsche fault code 10 Engine Speed Sensor

Open

2. Alarm

a. 48 Airbag signal acknowledged

Status not Present

Frequency counter 11

b. 60 Central Locking limit position

Locks not reached

Status not Present

Frequency counter 9

c. 33 Interior Sensor Faulty

Status not Present

Frequency counter 2

d. 21 W Lead (DME Immobilizer)

Status not present

Frequency counter 1

e. 49 K Lead

Status not Present

Frequency counter 5

f. 18 Power Windows

Status Present

Frequency counter 127

I am wondering if either the Motronic fault or the Alarm fault for the 21 W Lead (DME Immobilizer could be keeping the engine from starting. Any Ideas?

[Loren]

"Actuation

To ensure that the required fuel pressure and the necessary amount of fuel are provided, the DME control unit actuates! the fuel pump for approx. 1 second whenever the ignition is, switched on (pump priming). To trigger another pump priming operation, the running engine must be switched off and the ignition then switched on again. In addition, the fuel pump is activated by the DME control unit whenever the engine speed exceeds 15 rpm."

The last sentence is important since you have a P0336 Engine Speed Sensor Signal – Open Circuit.

Is the engine speed sensor plugged in? or is the magnet missing from the flywheel?

[Dharn55]

I will check the sensor connection. I know it was connected, but may have come disconnected when the engine was being jacked up. As for the magnet on the flywheel, there was a series of "teeth" (not the starter ring) behind the flywheel that pass the sensor. I did not really see a magnet, just these "teeth" which I thought were the interface with the sensor. Am I wrong?

[Loren]

I will check the sensor connection. I know it was connected, but may have come disconnected when the engine was being jacked up. As for the magnet on the flywheel, there was a series of "teeth" (not the starter ring) behind the flywheel that pass the sensor. I did not really see a magnet, just these "teeth" which I thought were the interface with the sensor. Am I wrong?

Sorry, you are right no magnet (I was thinking of a different car).

Make sure the teeth or the flywheel ring was not damaged during installation.

[Dharn55]

The speed sensor fault is showing up whether the sped sensor is connected or not, so I am thinking that either the sensor or the connector/wiring is faulty. Hopefully the sensor as the wiring is hard to access. Do you know of a way to test either the sensor or the wiring?

[Loren]

[Dharn55]

Loren - Thanks so much, I am going to try this now.

[Dharn55]

Tested the sensor, seemed to be defective, so I began the "removal." Remember this is a 9 year old car that has been through alot of winters. First the bolt that holds the sensor was frozen. It is a 5mm hex drive bolt (indented). So tight that the hex driver twisted and stripped the head. fianlly got it out with a screw extractor. Then tried to get the sensor out. No way!! It was so crroded in that the head of it (plastic) snapped off when I tried to pry it off. Then i tried to drill it for a screw extractor. No luck, that metal/magnet is really hard. Could not get it out anyway. So, out come the engine again! Decided that this was easier for me than trying to get the bolts out of the bell housing and dropping the trans by itself (though I know this can be done as I had my clutch changed 2 years ago). The good news is that I started to drop the engine at 5:00 this eveing and had it out and the trans off before 9:00. Not bad for working in my driveway on jackstands. the firt time i worked on it for several days. Now that I know how everything comes off it went really quickly.

Now for the stupid part. It is hard to get at the slave cylinder bolts when the engine/trans is up, so I decided to wait till I lowered it a few inches for better access. But I was working quickly to be sunset, and I forgot. My son and I were sliding the engine/trans out from under the car when I felt resistance. Looked and there was the coil of tubing leading to the slave cylinder stretched tight and kinked. SUTPID, STUPID STUPID!!! Guess that is what I get for trying to work so quickly. Alot of frustration in trying to get my car running again.

Now back to the sensor. To get it out I had to separate the trans from the engine, then remove the pressure plate and flywheel (another set of bolts to be replaced). Then I had access to the sensor from the inside. I actually had to bat on the thing with a hammer from both sides. Man the mother was stuck in there. Basically it finally came apart into pieces, i was able to get the magnet core out, then the plastic sleeve came out. I don't know how tight they are supposed to fit, but I don't know how you would remove one with the engine in it they are meant to fit this tight. Guees I will see tomorrow when the sendor arrives. I had it overnighted from Vertex, which had the lowest price i could find for the sensor ($109 vx $195 at the local dealer and 1 week away), but the overnight shipping was $45.00. Thought i would go for it, now I need the tube/hose that I stretched. Maybe one fo the dealers in the area will have one in stock, probably not though, then maybe Sunset or Suncoast

The Saga Continues.