Possible Motor Mount Replacement?

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

So i noticed sometimes when I'm at idle, i can feel a slight vibration every now and again from the engine. Feels like a motor mount might need replacing. Having never even looked at where the motor mounts are on the car, on a scale of 1-10, how difficult is it to replace a motor mount with no access to a lift? Estimates on time to complete? Etc? I was looking in my bentley manual, but couldn't really find a great deal on the subject (unless I missed it). Just curious what everyone elses' experience is. Thanks!

[por911]

Replacing the motor and trans mounts can get rid of alot of vibrations/rattles. I had replaced the motor mount(porsche speak-motor console) at about 42k. Then realizing a few K-miles down the line, the trans mounts should have been replaced as well(collapsed about .5-.75). They were not leaking, but had fallen quite a bit. With a set of rhino ramps and a decent floor jack, you should be able to tackle the task of mount replacem,ent without a hitch. The passenger side trans mount takes a bit of wrestling out, but is feasible to remove. Having said that, afterwards the shifting was vastly improved in every dimension. I had also replaced the gear oil and flushed the clutch hydralic fluid. The mounts really improved that first morning shift from 1st to 2nd. There is less shifting of the driveline under and off of power, more solid and connected. Hope this clarifies some of the issues.

regards

[Rob in CO]

I just did the motor mount on my '01S a few weeks ago. Tranny mounts looked OK so I left them alone for now. As long as you can get the car high enough on stands to lie comfortably underneath it, it isn't that bad.

[usaf-lt-g]

I just did the motor mount on my '01S a few weeks ago. Tranny mounts looked OK so I left them alone for now. As long as you can get the car high enough on stands to lie comfortably underneath it, it isn't that bad.

I take it you need to place the hydraulic jack underneath part of the engine to support it, while you remove one of the mounts? Same procedure with tranny if doing the tranny?

[Rob in CO]

I just did the motor mount on my '01S a few weeks ago. Tranny mounts looked OK so I left them alone for now. As long as you can get the car high enough on stands to lie comfortably underneath it, it isn't that bad.

You need to have a jack available for the engine. You need to move it up and down a bit to access the bolts and maneuver the mounts in and out. Only a couple inches of movement but it is critical. Pedrosgarage.com has excellent instructions with photos and he also sells an aftermarket mount, which is what I installed and I like it. A bit more noise and vibration but the shifter feel is WAY better.

The job is probably a 3 or 4 out of 10 on difficulty. Really not awful if you can slide in and out under the car easily. Go for it and good luck.

[soopster]

Here are two links that describe the front motor mount process in detail. Sounds like it's straight forward but a pain in the rear.

PPBB web site

http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...rue#Post1106222

Pedro's garage

http://www.pedrosgarage.com/Site%203/Insta...ne%20Mount.html

There are also lots of posts on this board if you search. There were some comments about replacing the mount on wheel ramps could through off your alignment and you are supposed to use a lift or car jacks instead. Not sure if this is true.

After researching it a little, I decided to get the dealer or an independent to do it. That's my next "investment" later this summer.

[usaf-lt-g]

Thanks for the info guys,

I'm going to tackle the issue myself. My next question was going to be "how are the aftermarket" mounts, since the factory ones are prone to failure between 30 - 45k. I was thinking, I may go the route and replace the bushings with some aftermarket ones I saw. I know Cheetah sells one:

http://www.cheetahonline.com/products/c8036.html

So does this site:

http://www.bradrobertsag.com/product/CHAS-...gine_Mount.html

and he also carries a trans mount:

http://www.bradrobertsag.com/product/CHAS-...ans_Mounts.html

I'm curious about how much "extra" vibration we're talking about. Like if I'm going to be getting a massage the whole time like running over a waterboard road ;)

[geoff]

One of the Jake Raby posts somewhere (not sure if it was on this forum or elsewhere) alluded to the more solid front mounts being one source contributing to engine failure. I can't remember where I saw it, and never saw any follow-up after that. Maybe if Jake sees this he will chime in and elaborate on his latest findings. My Boxster has just a hair under 60K miles, so the original front motor mount is probably history based on what everyone says, even though I don't notice the telltale 3K RPM vibration or problems shifting. I've avoided looking at my motor mount until hearing what Jake discovered.

[usaf-lt-g]

One of the Jake Raby posts somewhere (not sure if it was on this forum or elsewhere) alluded to the more solid front mounts being one source contributing to engine failure. I can't remember where I saw it, and never saw any follow-up after that. Maybe if Jake sees this he will chime in and elaborate on his latest findings. My Boxster has just a hair under 60K miles, so the original front motor mount is probably history based on what everyone says, even though I don't notice the telltale 3K RPM vibration or problems shifting. I've avoided looking at my motor mount until hearing what Jake discovered.

Interesting... yes I'd be curious to find out what the findings are on these, or if I should just stick to the OEM mount and replace.

[CarreraLicious]

One of the Jake Raby posts somewhere (not sure if it was on this forum or elsewhere) alluded to the more solid front mounts being one source contributing to engine failure. I can't remember where I saw it, and never saw any follow-up after that. Maybe if Jake sees this he will chime in and elaborate on his latest findings. My Boxster has just a hair under 60K miles, so the original front motor mount is probably history based on what everyone says, even though I don't notice the telltale 3K RPM vibration or problems shifting. I've avoided looking at my motor mount until hearing what Jake discovered.

Interesting... yes I'd be curious to find out what the findings are on these, or if I should just stick to the OEM mount and replace.

I had a really annoying shudder on hard right turns under power, and traced it to a worn out motor mount. Replaced with an OEM mount (which by the way, is now updated to the 987 part number, as they no longer sell the 986 piece), and the shudder went away. Apparently, the worn motor mount was so deteriorated, it allowed my driveline geometry to be off enough to cause grinding issues. The new mount also got rid of the annoying 3k rpms vibration I used to get when decelerating in that range. My original mount went out at 58k miles.

[wvicary]

I have never heard of an engine mount causing the engine to fail. The front engine mount has a high failure rate and has been updated. I think the mount is very easy to change out but I have access to a lift. On a scale of 1-10 I would rate it a 3.

[petee c]

I brought my 'new' 2001 Boxster S home this weekend from Chicago.

Noticed a few things, which I believe to be related to a motor mount failing.

- hard to shift into 3rd during spirited driving, it only goes into 3rd about 1/3 times, double clutching helps. During grandma style driving, shifting into 3rd isn't much of an issue. usually snicks in 9/10 times.

- I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel, when neutral throttle or decelerating at about the 3,000rpm mark. The vibration pretty much stops when I am below 2500rpm engine speed, and accelerating past the 3000rpm mark.

Would a failing motor mount be an accurate diagnosis?

P

[usaf-lt-g]

I brought my 'new' 2001 Boxster S home this weekend from Chicago.

Noticed a few things, which I believe to be related to a motor mount failing.

- hard to shift into 3rd during spirited driving, it only goes into 3rd about 1/3 times, double clutching helps. During grandma style driving, shifting into 3rd isn't much of an issue. usually snicks in 9/10 times.

- I noticed a vibration in the steering wheel, when neutral throttle or decelerating at about the 3,000rpm mark. The vibration pretty much stops when I am below 2500rpm engine speed, and accelerating past the 3000rpm mark.

Would a failing motor mount be an accurate diagnosis?

P

Hi Petee c!

Good to hear you were able to get that Box S! Sorry I couldn't help ya out with that out before. Actually, I had a similar problem when I bought my S, although the issue was in 2nd as compared to 3rd. The issue I had was actually related to the 2nd gear "Fork" in the transmission, which needed to be replaced and fixed. Rather than spend a HUGE deal of money on the issue, I ended up dropping the transmission myself in my garage, and then contacted vertex automotive (www.vertexauto.com). They confirmed that the issue was probably a fork. Vertex then used a freight company which came directly to my house, packaged the trans on a palatte, and shipped it for free to their office in Florida. In addition I asked and requested they send me a new clutch and seal ring. They ended up replacing all the forks, and I received my trans back in about 2 weeks. All-in-all I spent about $1200, but it was well worth it. Drives just like it was brand new, and no more issues. That was about the only thing I've had to do on my boxster that was a little pricy... but again... well worth it.

If it were your motor mounts, you'd have some deffinate vibration and clunking feeling at idle, and at low RPMs. It "might" be a motor mount.... but i'm leaning towards a fork problem. Could be a combination of both though. Just my 2 cents.

[kamran66]

What ever you do don't buy the motor mount from Cheetahonline.com, I installed one of his 11 months ago and 2 weeks ago my car developed this strange noise from the suspension that cost me 1500.00 worth of unneccessary parts and labor, finally after a saga I found out that the mount had failed. It seems the rubber bushing in the cheetahonline mount is too soft and slips out of the mount, this created metal to metal contact and rumbling sounds on turns and bumps. I replaced my rear struts and control arms thinking it was the problem, thanks to curious mechanic friend we were able to pinpoint it sound to the replaced mount. I emailed cheetahonline twice never got any answer. I picked up an OEM mount for $175.00 and had it installed for another $100.00. I took some pictures as they were removing the part....long story short buy the OEM part.

Regards,

kamran

[petee c]

i've ordered a remanufactured 'enthusiast' mount from Pedro.... going to R&R my Front Mount and see if that gets rid of some of the vibration, and improves the shifting...

- get a bit of vibration while car warms up at idle too.... I'm thinking it's a failing mount.

- it's a low frequency, medium amplitude rock of the engine.....

- very hard to tell, 1st boxster, and nothing really to compare it to.

Regards,

Peter

[seafeye]

i've ordered a remanufactured 'enthusiast' mount from Pedro.... going to R&R my Front Mount and see if that gets rid of some of the vibration, and improves the shifting...

- get a bit of vibration while car warms up at idle too.... I'm thinking it's a failing mount.

- it's a low frequency, medium amplitude rock of the engine.....

- very hard to tell, 1st boxster, and nothing really to compare it to.

Regards,

Peter

Just bought the motor mount from the sponsor of this site. $158 plus $12 shipping. http://sunsetimports.com/renntech.php

DIY article coming soon...

Thanks Jeff