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Recommended Posts

Posted

:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

Posted (edited)

1) i'd skip the mk1 996s and go for an mk2s. if that's outta your budget just wait.

2) yea do you think it's fair?

3) engine failure

4) yes the total PPI including compression/leakdown should cost you less than $300 at a reputable indy

5) good luck, bud. the 996 carrera is a very fun car.

Edited by Benjamin Choi
Posted
:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. depends on how it was serviced.

2. paint? accidents? suspension still good?

3. even 02 engines fail

4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern..

LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks...

... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it...

personally I would go the extra mile to do it...

but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

Posted
:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. depends on how it was serviced.

2. paint? accidents? suspension still good?

3. even 02 engines fail

4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern..

LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks...

... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it...

personally I would go the extra mile to do it...

but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

Paint excellent. NO ACCIDENTS. really an exceptionally great looking car in and out.

Suspension- good I guess. test ride was good, but haven't seen it on a lift as of yet.

MK1 or MK2- How do I know which is which?

Posted
:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. depends on how it was serviced.

2. paint? accidents? suspension still good?

3. even 02 engines fail

4. also plug into the ECU and get the # of engine running hours.... the average speed over the life of the car is approx 30 mph... so your engine hours on a car with 35,000 mile should not be more than 1166 hrs... if its significantly more than that you know somebody has ROLLED BACK the mileage... on a 99 with low mileage like that this would be my main concern..

LEAKDOWN DEFINITELY !!! and if you are super paranoid you can do a BOROSCOPE analysis (2 hour charge) to have the tech look inside each cylinder and check for liner cracks...

... also drop the oil pan and see if there is any metallic debri in the pan.... if there is... forget it...

personally I would go the extra mile to do it...

but leakdown and engine hours first before other tests...

Paint excellent. NO ACCIDENTS. really an exceptionally great looking car in and out.

Suspension- good I guess. test ride was good, but haven't seen it on a lift as of yet.

MK1 or MK2- How do I know which is which?

MK2 has rounder headlights and 3.6 motor... also has different rear bumper and color keyed rear bumper extensions where as 99-01 are black

Posted (edited)

I have a 99 996 and I love it. I track it, rally it, take the kids to school in it, even show it at some local shows. To mention engine failure on a MKI 996 is pretty irresponsible. It is true that engine failure happens to MKII 996's as well, so I really don't know what that was all about. Engine failure is inevitable if you hot rod the car constantly and don't keep up with maintenance, regardless of alleged design flaws. The thing is that when you get stung by engine failure, you usually make sure everyone in the world knows about it and feels your pain, so it is overblown in my opinion.

You are going to get a lot of opinionated responses in here, from don't buy it because of engine failure, to, buy it because it is the best one ever. I think a PPI will tell you a lot, make sure the records are verifiable, check the spacing between the exhaust tips and the rear bumper cover. 23k is pretty doggone cheap, and if the seller has a verifiable and good reason for selling it then why not?

Edited by deanslist.us
Posted

Thats kinda my opinion too. :rolleyes:

I spoke to the mech who did the clutch recently and he said the rear main seal was dry then. He also said this was a "good" car.

The owners been trying to sell it for a few months so I guess he softening on his price a bit, I think its worth more than the trade in value of 17,500, but not more than 23,000 as per recent sales on evilbay.

Auction cars are cheaper I know but theres a risk with thoise that I think is higher than w/a two owner car. This car is prolly nicer than I'm decsribing it...............

Posted
:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

1. Absolutely without question. I don't know how anyone could own a car with this character and capability that is more easy to live with than this one, and that certainly includes other Porsches, too. I use mine as if it was a Honda, every day, all weather. It just works. I don't have to check for puddles every day, or keep a crate of spare parts in the garage, or chant incantations before I turn the key. It's a brilliant first Porsche.

2. I can't comment helpfully on your market. Where I am, that would be a wonderful price.

3. To me, seals are just annoying, nothing more. A great number of the cars with chronic RMS problems eventually ended up with new motors. Most you'll find now that still have leaks really just need the latest version of the seal. In my opinion, there is only one issue worth worrying about, and that's the possibility of IMS failure. This possibility exists to varying degrees in every M96 engine from the original Boxster up to the last year's 997. It is a very expensive problem to have, if it happens. If you can't sleep knowing that, move on. If you can, this is a stupendous car.

4. Yes, sure. Again in my opinion only, I believe that service records are all-important in a used 996, more important than mileage and even more important than which version of the engine your car has. I'd buy a 100,000 mile car with frequent oil changes and a disciplined pattern of preventative maintenance over a pretty, low-mileage garage queen with an uncertain past. Wear isn't going to be your problem with a 996, care is. This is even true of managing your risk of IMS failure, where oiling has been shown to be a potential contributing factor.

I'm a huge fan of the 996, and I think the mechanical-throttled '99s have their own great personality, so there's my bias. Good luck!

Posted

My '99 C2 Tip is fantastic. Bought it with 60 k miles and now has 70k. 10k trouble free miles, daily driver and serviced twice in year. Enjoy the car if you buy it.

Posted
:) First post here gents. Been lookin' for a P-car for about 2 years. Started w/the 964, then to the 3.2, then to the 993, then to a turbo 3.2 and now I'm keen on a 996.

I think I've come across a good car at a fair price........Here's the deal- 1999 911 under 35,000 miles. Pristine cond in and out. New clutch. Solid maint history w/receipts. Bone stock. 18" turbo twists. 2nd owner since 2001.

Price $23,000 American

Questions: 1. Is this a good first Porsche?

2. Is it a fair price?

3. Besides the rear main seal what are any issues that could potentially cost me $$$?

4. Should I have a leakdown test done on it during the PPI?

Any and all responses welcome......................Thanks :)

Get a full PPI (w/ leakdown) and if it is good get after it! These cars are fun!

Last year I bought a non CPO, no 3rd party warranty, '02 C2 with 28k miles and I've been enjoying the hell out of it everyday. I've put about 10k miles on it and have had no issues, just the normal maintenance; oil changes (2), transmission fluid, brake fluid and I just did the spark plugs at 36k miles.

My car is not perfect on paper, but it is a great car. It had 3 previous owners and a fender bender on the CarFax. The Carfax and number of previous owners will make the car hader to re-sell but my main cocern was getting a nice car not a nice Carfax!

Here's what I did before I bought it:

1. Looked closely at the Carfax and Vin records and used them to find additional information; clean title, service locations ect.

2. Found the latest service records at the local Porsche shop in the town where the car was located. The service department gave me the records and blocked out the previous owners name and address, very cool and lucky. The car had a few warranty items done in June 2006 at 23k miles which included RMS, and IMS. So, I knew that the seals and IMS flange were up to date with the latest part numbers. No leaks in 3 years and 15k miles.

3. Got a hold of the Police report from the state where the accident occured. It turned out to be a non moving accident that happend in a parking lot and only involved the front bumper.

4. Gave the car my once over and found it looked great, drove great and had nice options.

5. Most important, I had a critical experienced mechanic do a PPI. The report was very in-depth and it got a go stamp; no seal leaks, no damage to the car, good brake life etc. He even noticed a screw in one the rear tires that wound up getting me a new set of rears in my deal.

6. Used the Carfax and information from the PPI to negotiate a fair exchange with the seller.

7. Made sure I kept a little reserve in the case the thing came unscrewed. Haven't had to tap it yet at 10k + miles.

Good luck,

Bruce

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