00+ transmission w/microswitches

[atta]

I changed my entire top w/frame on my 99 to one from a 03 with the glass window. This new setup does not work with the B-pilar microswitch. Everything work when I manually push the MS when it should have been triggered.

So I bought a set of the new type transmissions on eBay and a Type B SmartTOP-relay. The other weekend I installed the left side transmission with the microswitch and ran the wires up to relay carrier. The microswitches in the transmission (two) replace the one in the B-pillar (top closed) and the one on top of the motor (top open). To do the switchover I need to replace these to signals and relocate the "top unlocked" signal that has changed its location on the B type relay (probably so that they can not operate if put in a wrong year vehicle).

If took me a while to change out the transmission, so I only did the left side and left the old type tranismission on the right side.

After getting everything back to where I where, everything working using the old microswitches but the new transmission, I hooked up a multimeter to test the new microswitches before I swap over the relay. It looks like the relays now break the connection, and it is broken exactly at the cutout time of the motor. So no longer any delay circuit in the relay.

When I run the top from closed to open "top open" signal goes from closed to open at the same time as the engine stops when I fully open the top. - But I can't get the "top closed" signal to change its state. I have tried pushing in the B-pillar microswitch late (since I now operate it manually) to try to run the transmission further but no luck so far. I'm nervous that I will break something if I try to let the motor/gears run longer than what I have tried so far.

Since I bought the transmissions on eBay I'm nervous that there could be something wrong with the microswitch. Has anyone else had any experience here? Maurice - you are doing this swap as well? What will happen if I run the motor too long when closing the top? Perhaps I could disconnect the v-levers and try to run it further?

Atle

[1schoir]

I changed my entire top w/frame on my 99 to one from a 03 with the glass window. This new setup does not work with the B-pilar microswitch. Everything work when I manually push the MS when it should have been triggered.

So I bought a set of the new type transmissions on eBay and a Type B SmartTOP-relay. The other weekend I installed the left side transmission with the microswitch and ran the wires up to relay carrier. The microswitches in the transmission (two) replace the one in the B-pillar (top closed) and the one on top of the motor (top open). To do the switchover I need to replace these to signals and relocate the "top unlocked" signal that has changed its location on the B type relay (probably so that they can not operate if put in a wrong year vehicle).

If took me a while to change out the transmission, so I only did the left side and left the old type tranismission on the right side.

After getting everything back to where I where, everything working using the old microswitches but the new transmission, I hooked up a multimeter to test the new microswitches before I swap over the relay. It looks like the relays now break the connection, and it is broken exactly at the cutout time of the motor. So no longer any delay circuit in the relay.

When I run the top from closed to open "top open" signal goes from closed to open at the same time as the engine stops when I fully open the top. - But I can't get the "top closed" signal to change its state. I have tried pushing in the B-pillar microswitch late (since I now operate it manually) to try to run the transmission further but no luck so far. I'm nervous that I will break something if I try to let the motor/gears run longer than what I have tried so far.

Since I bought the transmissions on eBay I'm nervous that there could be something wrong with the microswitch. Has anyone else had any experience here? Maurice - you are doing this swap as well? What will happen if I run the motor too long when closing the top? Perhaps I could disconnect the v-levers and try to run it further?

Atle

Atle:

I expect to be doing this swap as soon as I can get my hands on the connector and wires that are supposed to replace the B-pillar microswith and that will now plug into the front edge of the driver's side transmission. That is the only part I am missing. AFAIK, there is no microswitch in the Version B (new style, non half-moon gear) passenger's side transmission, even though the factory manual says that is where it is located. Maybe I misunderstood your statement about "the microswitches" and you can clarify this.

The newer top double relay (MY 00 and later) is indispensable if you are doing away with the original "B-Pillar" microswitch and the lever/microswitch that is on top of the electric motor in the older 986's. I believe that the "after-running time" is taken care of in the new relay, instead of depending on the earlier set up of the two aforementioned microswitches.

I would strongly recommend that you not introduce the SmarTop relay into the equation until you get everything sorted out properly. After that time it shouldn't be a problem.

Could you also explain in detail how and what kind of wires you ran "up to the relay carrier". Did you use the factory connector to plug into the edge of the driver's side transmission or did you make up a harness? Maybe some photos of what you did might be easier to help figure it out.

If you run the motor too long when closing the top, you run the risk of exploding/shattering one or both of the plastic ball cups, and/or possibly bending one of the arms of the V-levers. Disconnecting all of the pushrods is a good idea to help sort it out, but don't make the mistake of letting the front pushrods (with the plastic ball cups) dangle from the V-levers when you are operating the top. If you do, you will rip or tear the foam drain pan and end up later with a flooded central alarm control unit, so be careful with that.

If you clarify some of the points here, we can figure it out.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited April 24, 2009 by 1schoir

[atta]

I changed my entire top w/frame on my 99 to one from a 03 with the glass window. This new setup does not work with the B-pilar microswitch. Everything work when I manually push the MS when it should have been triggered.

So I bought a set of the new type transmissions on eBay and a Type B SmartTOP-relay. The other weekend I installed the left side transmission with the microswitch and ran the wires up to relay carrier. The microswitches in the transmission (two) replace the one in the B-pillar (top closed) and the one on top of the motor (top open). To do the switchover I need to replace these to signals and relocate the "top unlocked" signal that has changed its location on the B type relay (probably so that they can not operate if put in a wrong year vehicle).

If took me a while to change out the transmission, so I only did the left side and left the old type tranismission on the right side.

After getting everything back to where I where, everything working using the old microswitches but the new transmission, I hooked up a multimeter to test the new microswitches before I swap over the relay. It looks like the relays now break the connection, and it is broken exactly at the cutout time of the motor. So no longer any delay circuit in the relay.

When I run the top from closed to open "top open" signal goes from closed to open at the same time as the engine stops when I fully open the top. - But I can't get the "top closed" signal to change its state. I have tried pushing in the B-pillar microswitch late (since I now operate it manually) to try to run the transmission further but no luck so far. I'm nervous that I will break something if I try to let the motor/gears run longer than what I have tried so far.

Since I bought the transmissions on eBay I'm nervous that there could be something wrong with the microswitch. Has anyone else had any experience here? Maurice - you are doing this swap as well? What will happen if I run the motor too long when closing the top? Perhaps I could disconnect the v-levers and try to run it further?

Atle

Atle:

I expect to be doing this swap as soon as I can get my hands on the connector and wires that are supposed to replace the B-pillar microswith and that will now plug into the front edge of the driver's side transmission. That is the only part I am missing. AFAIK, there is no microswitch in the Version B (new style, non half-moon gear) passenger's side transmission, even though the factory manual says that is where it is located. Maybe I misunderstood your statement about "the microswitches" and you can clarify this.

The newer top double relay (MY 00 and later) is indispensable if you are doing away with the original "B-Pillar" microswitch and the lever/microswitch that is on top of the electric motor in the older 986's. I believe that the "after-running time" is taken care of in the new relay, instead of depending on the earlier set up of the two aforementioned microswitches.

I would strongly recommend that you not introduce the SmarTop relay into the equation until you get everything sorted out properly. After that time it shouldn't be a problem.

Could you also explain in detail how and what kind of wires you ran "up to the relay carrier". Did you use the factory connector to plug into the edge of the driver's side transmission or did you make up a harness? Maybe some photos of what you did might be easier to help figure it out.

If you run the motor too long when closing the top, you run the risk of exploding/shattering one or both of the plastic ball cups, and/or possibly bending one of the arms of the V-levers. Disconnecting all of the pushrods is a good idea to help sort it out, but don't make the mistake of letting the front pushrods (with the plastic ball cups) dangle from the V-levers when you are operating the top. If you do, you will rip or tear the foam drain pan and end up later with a flooded central alarm control unit, so be careful with that.

If you clarify some of the points here, we can figure it out.

Regards, Maurice.

Microswitches = the left transmission houses two relays, one that triggers when the transmission is at is rearmost position and one at its foremost posisition. These relays replace the b-pilar microswitch and the one on top of the top motor that is pushed down by the clamshell.

Relay = Yes, you definitly will need a new type relay. And I agree that I don't think the new style relays have any "after running time". It looks like the microswitches in the new transmission cut out at the exact time when the engine is to stop.

Wiring-harness = I made one. I found a plug from a BMW wire harness that I had lying around. I think the type of connector is pretty common. Running the wires to the front was easy. One can probably splice into the existing wires at the B-pilar, but then you would have to open up the bundle of wires.

Atle

[1schoir]

Microswitches = the left transmission houses two relays, one that triggers when the transmission is at is rearmost position and one at its foremost posisition. These relays replace the b-pilar microswitch and the one on top of the top motor that is pushed down by the clamshell.

Relay = Yes, you definitly will need a new type relay. And I agree that I don't think the new style relays have any "after running time". It looks like the microswitches in the new transmission cut out at the exact time when the engine is to stop.

Wiring-harness = I made one. I found a plug from a BMW wire harness that I had lying around. I think the type of connector is pretty common. Running the wires to the front was easy. One can probably splice into the existing wires at the B-pilar, but then you would have to open up the bundle of wires.

Atle

Atle:

Okay, I misunderstood. I thought at first that you were saying that there were microswitches in both of the Version B transmissions.

I'm going to try to splice into the existing wires, but I think it's going to involve splicing into the small harness that comes from the electric motor and the small harness that leads from the old B-Pillar microswitch.

Let me know if you connected your new "custom" harness wires to which specific terminals on the receptacle part of the double relay. I'd like to ohm out my wires (the ones I just mentioned above) to insure that I've got the right ones.

Regards, Maurice.

[atta]

Atle:

Okay, I misunderstood. I thought at first that you were saying that there were microswitches in both of the Version B transmissions.

I'm going to try to splice into the existing wires, but I think it's going to involve splicing into the small harness that comes from the electric motor and the small harness that leads from the old B-Pillar microswitch.

Let me know if you connected your new "custom" harness wires to which specific terminals on the receptacle part of the double relay. I'd like to ohm out my wires (the ones I just mentioned above) to insure that I've got the right ones.

Regards, Maurice.

I disconnected the pushrods and ran the motor a little further than what I have dared to do earlier, and the microswitch works!

Actually, there seems to be no risk of damaging the top by running it too far (the top, probably a different story with the clamshell). The pushrods actually went to the most extended positin and then back a little bit (because of the V-shape it starts to go retract even though the drive moves in the same direction).

Long story short, I spliced in the new wires replacing the old microswitches and moved "top unlock"-signal to the new posisition, inserted the SmartTOP type B relay and everything now works perfect! :)

Here are some notes:

- I think it is a good idea to splice into the wires in the back.

- The plug you need to connect to the transmission is actually the same connector that is used on the wire from the b-pillar microswitch. You just need to add one pin as it only uses two out of the three available. Great news, huh? :)

- When you move the "top unlock"-signal it has a different type of plug. The relay has small pins and large ones. The new possition needs the large type, so it is not just a simple "extract pin and insert in new hole" procedure.

Pins/wires:

- Relay position 1/3 brown with small black stripe goes to pin 1 of new transmission plug (replaces swith on top of the motor)

- Relay position 2/9 brown with small red stripe goes to pin 3 of new transmission plug (replaces B-pillar microswitch)

- Pin 2 of new transmission plug is ground

- "top unlocked"-signal has to be moved from relay position 1/9 to 2/4. It is brown with a grey stripe, and there are two identical wires going into the same pin.

Good luck. :)

Atle

[1schoir]

I disconnected the pushrods and ran the motor a little further than what I have dared to do earlier, and the microswitch works!

Actually, there seems to be no risk of damaging the top by running it too far (the top, probably a different story with the clamshell). The pushrods actually went to the most extended positin and then back a little bit (because of the V-shape it starts to go retract even though the drive moves in the same direction).

Long story short, I spliced in the new wires replacing the old microswitches and moved "top unlock"-signal to the new posisition, inserted the SmartTOP type B relay and everything now works perfect! :)

Here are some notes:

- I think it is a good idea to splice into the wires in the back.

- The plug you need to connect to the transmission is actually the same connector that is used on the wire from the b-pillar microswitch. You just need to add one pin as it only uses two out of the three available. Great news, huh? :)

- When you move the "top unlock"-signal it has a different type of plug. The relay has small pins and large ones. The new possition needs the large type, so it is not just a simple "extract pin and insert in new hole" procedure.

Pins/wires:

- Relay position 1/3 brown with small black stripe goes to pin 1 of new transmission plug (replaces swith on top of the motor)

- Relay position 2/9 brown with small red stripe goes to pin 3 of new transmission plug (replaces B-pillar microswitch)

- Pin 2 of new transmission plug is ground

- "top unlocked"-signal has to be moved from relay position 1/9 to 2/4. It is brown with a grey stripe, and there are two identical wires going into the same pin.

Good luck. :)

Atle

Atle:

Excellent work! :clapping: And thanks for the wire color information.

I have a "spare" B-pillar microswitch and I will look into adapting that one if the source I am supposed to be getting the connector from does not materialize.

I don't understand why the "top unlocked" signal wire has to be moved from pin 1/9 to pin 2/4 if you are using the later version top relay. Is that related to the fact that you are using a SmarTop relay?

It's going to be a pleasure to not have to worry about doing the "chop" or cracking the vinyl window if it's too cold out!

Regards, Maurice.

[atta]

Atle:

Excellent work! :clapping: And thanks for the wire color information.

I have a "spare" B-pillar microswitch and I will look into adapting that one if the source I am supposed to be getting the connector from does not materialize.

I don't understand why the "top unlocked" signal wire has to be moved from pin 1/9 to pin 2/4 if you are using the later version top relay. Is that related to the fact that you are using a SmarTop relay?

It's going to be a pleasure to not have to worry about doing the "chop" or cracking the vinyl window if it's too cold out!

Regards, Maurice.

Actually, you need the plug that the wire from the B-pillar microswitch mates with. It's behind the b-pillar cover down by the floor.

The "top unlocked" signal (from the top latch microswitch) has probably been relocated so that a type A relay would not be put in a car that requires a type B relay. The after run timer would certainly break something! The way it is set up now, putting an type A relay in a type B vehicle (or the other way around) would not cause any damage - just disable the relay as the "top unlocked" signal is needed for it to operate.

(By the way, the type A relay has a triangle on it and the type B has a square)

Yes - glass window is nice! No more chop. "No more chop" + the comfort features of the SmartTOP relay makes this a nice combination. :)

If I knew how involving this was I would probably have bought an aftermarket glass roof, though. Wish I had researched this site before I bought my box. I would have bought a 00 or later car. A lot of changes from 99 to 00, not to mention the move from 2,5 to 2,7l engine. :(

Atle

99 Boxster with 03 frame and glass roof w/SmartTOP relay. :)

[atta]

Quick update. Everything works perfectly. And one touch operation is very nice. :)

I did have one issue left to resolve. When the top was closed and I latched/locked it with the handle, the convertible top light came back on.

The only thing I could see that would cause this, is that the type A relay had two signals comming from the latch microswitch, top locked and top unlocked, while the new relay only use the top unlocked signal. The pin for this signal is not used on the type B relay. The SmartTOP relay I use did not like this signal however, as cutting the wire solved the issue. :)

So: Brown wire with blue stripe on in, pin 1/4 on the relay, needs to be cut (or the pin bendt on the relay) - at least with a SmartTOP relay.

Atle

[Gary b]

Can anyone help please I have a 1999 Boxster with plastic rear widow.I have hold of a near perfect top off a 2003 Boxster with glass screen have changed the gear boxes but need to know how to wire in the new type b relay 

[mikefocke]

I presume you have solved this by now. In case you haven't, email me and I'll send you a 10 year old write up that may help.  mike dot focke at gmail