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Hi All,

After 5 years of solid starting, my car finally decided to act up.

Got in as usual, interior lights came on. Turned the key and everything electrical came on, but the car would not turn over. Nothing, nada, no sound.

After some quick checking here, I did the following.

1. Wiggled the key in the ignition (no change)

2. Checked all fuses. (all good)

3. Bypassed the clutch switch (no change)

Any additional items I should check before scheduling a tow?

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Ideally your battery should sit somewhere around 12.3V - 12.8V without the engine running... when it's running... you want between 13.5V - 14.5V

You might be able to jump it, but I think your battery has died.

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Any update with this? If it still doesn't start, check to be sure all the pieces that connect right behind the key switch are still all connected. One time on my 986S, the connection became separated, and while I got dash lights and other electrical stuff, got nothing when I turned the key.

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Hello,

I had a similar problem in my new-to-me 2000 C2 cab. One day the car was fine, next day it was dead. In my case the battery just died. I suspect that internally is broke such that it had proper voltage (about 12.7 at rest, and not excessively charging when running) but not enough amps to turn the engine over.

I was able to start the car with a simple jump pack, or by jump-starting from another car (the jump start terminals are in the engine compartment).

A new battery solved the problem. I bought an Interstate from the local auto parts place that cost about $100 and was a perfect fit.

Good luck,

Barry

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Hi All,

After 5 years of solid starting, my car finally decided to act up.

Got in as usual, interior lights came on. Turned the key and everything electrical came on, but the car would not turn over. Nothing, nada, no sound.

After some quick checking here, I did the following.

1. Wiggled the key in the ignition (no change)

2. Checked all fuses. (all good)

3. Bypassed the clutch switch (no change)

Any additional items I should check before scheduling a tow?

Likewise - the same thing happened to my '03 C4S. Actually, it started fine after work (although a little sluggish on the cranking) and then when I stopped for gas on the way home it wouldn't re-start. Battery was the original, so a bit over 5 yrs. old. I put in a new one from Autozone for about $100 w/core charge.

Andy

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So I just tried a jump with no change. The volt meter moved to 13.5 13.7 with the other car running, but my car didn't make a sound. Could it still be the battery or is there another place I should look?

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i bought my car with an gps transmiter mounted.

one day..same simptoms,lights ,oil test come on but no sound from the starter

my baterry was 12,2 v,changed a new one,voltages goes to 12,7 and...nothing new.

finnaly it turned to be the gps reciver(it is under the fuse panel) wich was probablly malfunctioning,i remove it and car started instanntly

you should also check this out

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just as an fyi. I bypassed both sets of wires for the clutch switch (not knowing which one) using a single strand of copper wire. Would it matter?

If I recall correctly, the switch on the left side of the clutch peddal is the kill switch to start the car, the switch to the right of the clutch pedal is for the cruise controll. Corect me if I'm wrong.

After by-passing the switch/es, did the car start?

Edited by hi8ha
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So I just tried a jump with no change. The volt meter moved to 13.5 13.7 with the other car running, but my car didn't make a sound. Could it still be the battery or is there another place I should look?

Well I suppose the list just got bigger. I did have an issue with the alarm control unit that died (996-618-262-03)...car made no sound. Replaced under warranty.

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just as an fyi. I bypassed both sets of wires for the clutch switch (not knowing which one) using a single strand of copper wire. Would it matter?

If I recall correctly, the switch on the left side of the clutch peddal is the kill switch to start the car, the switch to the right of the clutch pedal is for the cruise controll. Corect me if I'm wrong.

After by-passing the switch/es, did the car start?

I have a wires on the left side and wires above the pedal. I originally bypassed the left side thinking there was only one. When I got down lower I saw the other switch. It looks more like the correct one since it seems to wire directly to button that is released when the clutch is depressed.

The car did nothing regardless of which one was bypassed.

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So I just tried a jump with no change. The volt meter moved to 13.5 13.7 with the other car running, but my car didn't make a sound. Could it still be the battery or is there another place I should look?

Well I suppose the list just got bigger. I did have an issue with the alarm control unit that died (996-618-262-03)...car made no sound. Replaced under warranty.

I just tried setting off the alarm. Rolled down the window, locked the car, stuck my hand inside, alarm went off. Car locks properly, radio works, lights come on, gauges all register.

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The only thing that's been brought up other than a faulty switch or fuse is the battery not passing the correct voltage.

Since attempting a jump pushed the volts up into the 13.5 range and nothing happened, how likely is it that the battery is the problem?

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The only thing that's been brought up other than a faulty switch or fuse is the battery not passing the correct voltage.

Since attempting a jump pushed the volts up into the 13.5 range and nothing happened, how likely is it that the battery is the problem?

Are you sure no fuses are blown? I've overlooked a blown 7.5amp fuse easily, they are hard to tell if they are blown. Your battery sounds fine.

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As Loren and JeTexas have said, start with the old battery. If you have a VOM, check the voltage after first turning on the headlights for 30 seconds. This will burn of the surface charge of the battery.

Voltage Charge Specific Gravity

12.6 100% 1.28-1.26

12.45 75% 1.25-1.23

12.30 50% 1.22-1.20

12.15 25% 1.19-1.17

As you can see, if you have less than 12.3 volts your car will not start. A sulphated battery will often indicate a good voltage but will not start a car due to high resistance caused by sulphation and the high current draw required to start a car. Your starter will draw 200+ amps to start. If you have an ammeter, check to see the draw to the starter. I have a Craftsman 73756 that works great and is more accurate than the old Snap-on inductive ammeter set I had.

I have had two problems that have caused no starts on my 996. The first was a battery with a dead cell. I had taken my car to the dealer for the gas cap recall and the tech drove the car to the customer pick-up after changing the cap. The car would not start when I tried to leave. All lights worked, but nothing from the starter. A specific gravity test (in my presence) showed a cell had packed it up. Convenient that I was at the dealer for a free gas cap, but costly since they only sold Porsche batteries. The second issue I have had is ignition switch failures (4 of them). This is a quick fix and I can do it is about 10 minutes, but the next one that goes in will be the full assembly.

Please note that a jump start my not work with a battery that has a dead cell or has an internal failure due to the high current draw. Also, check your battery terminals for oxidation when you change the battery. Poor connections (or bad grounds) will cause a no-start.

Edited by slbates
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