Instructions to replace the headers on a 997S

[first911]

I replaced my headers today. It was very easy. However, I did ask a lot of questions to make sure I knew what I was doing. Below you will find a step by step instructions with pictures. I apologize, the pictures are low quality. I hope it helps other 997 owners.

1. Lift your car and make sure you block the front wheels (picture 1.jpg).

2. Tools you need: 13 mm socket 6pt, flexible 13 mm socket, 6 inch extension, torque wrench, adapters for the wrench and the 13 mm socket, 6- M8-1.25mm X30 mm bolts, 6 - M8-1.25mm hex nuts, 12-M8 flat washers, 12-99907507400 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set - 997 (picture2.jpg). It helps if you spray on all bolts and nuts WD40 (o another brand) one or two days before you plan to uninstall the headers.

3. Partially remove 6-bolts from the part of the header connected to the engine (picture 3.jpg). Do not remove all bolts yet.

4. Partially remove 3-bolts and 3-nuts that connects the header and the cat. Be careful, make sure you have a strong and secure grip. I found this part a little bit difficult because the access is very limited. Flexible socket and extension make the job easier. (picture 4B.jpg)

5. Uninstall the header by completely removing all bolts and nuts (picture 5.jpg).

6. Clean all parts before installation. Use the 99907507400 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set - 997 to attach the header to the engine. Do not tight the bolts yet

7. Use the M8-1.25mm X30 mm bolts, M8-1.25mm hex nuts, M8 flat washers to connect the header to the cat. Use copper gasket or Porsche factory gasket between the engine and the header, and between the header and the cat. Do not tight the bolts yet.

8. Use 17 lb-ft of torque for the bolts that attach the header to the engine. I used discrete force for the bolts and nuts that connect the header and the cat. I couldn't find the torque specification for those bolts.

Repeat the process for the other header.

[phillipj]

Nice write up and great pics. Thanks for that I will add it to my DIY collection!

:renntech:

[Andre5]

Great write up. I used it to install my X51 headers along with AWE cats on yesterday.

While the flex socket is useful, I found that using a 9 to 12 inch extension on the diffficult to access top nuts of the cats without flex socket works just as well.

Edited May 3, 2009 by Andre5

[jvcuenca]

I replaced my headers today. It was very easy. However, I did ask a lot of questions to make sure I knew what I was doing. Below you will find a step by step instructions with pictures. I apologize, the pictures are low quality. I hope it helps other 997 owners.

1. Lift your car and make sure you block the front wheels (picture 1.jpg).

2. Tools you need: 13 mm socket 6pt, flexible 13 mm socket, 6 inch extension, torque wrench, adapters for the wrench and the 13 mm socket, 6- M8-1.25mm X30 mm bolts, 6 - M8-1.25mm hex nuts, 12-M8 flat washers, 12-99907507400 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set - 997 (picture2.jpg). It helps if you spray on all bolts and nuts WD40 (o another brand) one or two days before you plan to uninstall the headers.

3. Partially remove 6-bolts from the part of the header connected to the engine (picture 3.jpg). Do not remove all bolts yet.

4. Partially remove 3-bolts and 3-nuts that connects the header and the cat. Be careful, make sure you have a strong and secure grip. I found this part a little bit difficult because the access is very limited. Flexible socket and extension make the job easier. (picture 4B.jpg)

5. Uninstall the header by completely removing all bolts and nuts (picture 5.jpg).

6. Clean all parts before installation. Use the 99907507400 Exhaust Manifold Bolt Set - 997 to attach the header to the engine. Do not tight the bolts yet

7. Use the M8-1.25mm X30 mm bolts, M8-1.25mm hex nuts, M8 flat washers to connect the header to the cat. Use copper gasket or Porsche factory gasket between the engine and the header, and between the header and the cat. Do not tight the bolts yet.

8. Use 17 lb-ft of torque for the bolts that attach the header to the engine. I used discrete force for the bolts and nuts that connect the header and the cat. I couldn't find the torque specification for those bolts.

Repeat the process for the other header.

So, I just bought a brand new set of headers. From the write up, I don't have to remove the exhaust??? Just wondering..Thnaks

[AP 997S]

Probably not!

If the flange from the header exit to the CATS are not corroded or rusted tight you should simply remove the (3) bolts and your headers should be free. You might have to loosen the CATS up if the header-to-CAT flange is really tight.

Good Luck . . . . .

[papaskog]

Great set of instructions, question did you leave the rest of the exhaust system stock? What gains did you notice and any impact to the sound levels?

[first911]

Probably not!

If the flange from the header exit to the CATS are not corroded or rusted tight you should simply remove the (3) bolts and your headers should be free. You might have to loosen the CATS up if the header-to-CAT flange is really tight.

Good Luck . . . . .

You can replace the headers without removing anything else. It is a very simple process if you have the right tools.

Regards

[first911]

Great set of instructions, question did you leave the rest of the exhaust system stock? What gains did you notice and any impact to the sound levels?

I have AWE sport cats, AWE mufflers, and fabspeed headers. It is a quite system, the car feels really good, I don’t know about gains.

I would like to make a video…It is a weird setup, but it sounds spectacular.

[jvcuenca]

ok, I soaked the bolts with PB and left it for two days. Now, one of the bolt broke. How do I remove this? EZ out? or just take it to Midas and have them remove it after I install the headers. Any ideas? thanks!

[t32b]

Does anyone have the specifications for the header bolts (rather than the Porsche p/n)? I would like to order a stainless steel set (and washers?) to use when replacing my headers, but need the specs because Porsche does not sell SS for the 997S. I know I can pull out the old ones and measure, but then the car is down while I wait for new bolts by mail.

Thanks

[PAULSPEED]

You will need <12> hexagon-head blots M8 x 26.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[t32b]

Thank you.

You will need <12> hexagon-head blots M8 x 26.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[t32b]

Ran in to a problem and could really use some help. I've taken my time on this project, lube-ing the header and cat bolts a few times in the last week or so before I begin the procedure. Today, I went out to begin the work. The great news is that I succeeded in loosening all of the header bolts. Left them on there, but the riskiest part is done. I tried to loosen the cat-side nuts and two immediately snapped off. So, the question is whether the 'bolt' (the head being on the cat side of the connection) will just push out, or is it welded to the assembly. A couple of light taps on the end of the broken shaft did not move it, but I thought I'd ask first. Very frustrating.

Thanks

You will need <12> hexagon-head blots M8 x 26.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[PAULSPEED]

Ran in to a problem and could really use some help. I've taken my time on this project, lube-ing the header and cat bolts a few times in the last week or so before I begin the procedure. Today, I went out to begin the work. The great news is that I succeeded in loosening all of the header bolts. Left them on there, but the riskiest part is done. I tried to loosen the cat-side nuts and two immediately snapped off. So, the question is whether the 'bolt' (the head being on the cat side of the connection) will just push out, or is it welded to the assembly. A couple of light taps on the end of the broken shaft did not move it, but I thought I'd ask first. Very frustrating.

Thanks

You will need <12> hexagon-head blots M8 x 26.

Hope this helps.

Paul

I need to look at this on another computer.

You could call Sunset and order the part. They

can tell you if it is a loose clamp. I would

think it is.

Paul

[PAULSPEED]

The picture shows the bolt as a catalic part. The nuts

are listed as M8 locknut. Looks like you will have to take

the cats to a machine shop so they can install new studs.

Sorry for the bad news.

Paul

[t32b]

Well, I decided to circumvent the issue by buying a new Fabspeed x-pipe, rather than repair the broken lugs in the stock cats (I'll fix them anyway and keep them in case I want to return the car back to stock someday). The combined install took some time, but went quite smoothly. However, after a day of driving, the car through a CEL. I don't know if this is an issue with the Fabspeed pipe, my install or the headers (doubt that last one). Looks like I'm going to have to take the car in after all. Disappointing after doing all that work.

Any recommendations or ideas (re the likely culprit) would be welcomed.

Ran in to a problem and could really use some help. I've taken my time on this project, lube-ing the header and cat bolts a few times in the last week or so before I begin the procedure. Today, I went out to begin the work. The great news is that I succeeded in loosening all of the header bolts. Left them on there, but the riskiest part is done. I tried to loosen the cat-side nuts and two immediately snapped off. So, the question is whether the 'bolt' (the head being on the cat side of the connection) will just push out, or is it welded to the assembly. A couple of light taps on the end of the broken shaft did not move it, but I thought I'd ask first. Very frustrating.

Thanks

You will need <12> hexagon-head blots M8 x 26.

Hope this helps.

Paul

[acadian_dad]

Do you use any anti-sieze (optimoly, etc.) on the various fasteners ?