Caliper Swap DIY?

[her_986]

Will, in my option that is your answer, use NEW bolts. In my option factory work shop manuals are written to a specific audience. And therefore certain things are implied that would not be readily apparent to the DIY. Perhaps someone has NEW caliper bolts. If so, are they pre-coated?? If they are, then there would be no reason to specify a coating of any kind in the manual for the bolts. It would be part of the specifications of the bolts. Also, with new bolts you would be getting the correct type of coating, what ever it is. If they are not pre-coated then certainly just re-use them.. One of the wonderful things about this forum is getting answers about parts without buying something you may or my not need..

[Tool Pants]

Wait... wait... a video... maybe ToolPants just found a good reason to go to Las Vegas  ;)  ;)

We filmed a brake pad replacement last year and Las Vegas is too hot.

For certain fastners Porsche sells them pre coated or micro-encapsulated with something. It can be a sealant, thread lock, anti-seize, depening on the application.

I have been told new caliper bolts are coated with anti-seize. You have a steel fastner, the bolt, going into a threaded aluminum hub. Those dissimilar metals like to bond to bond with each other. If they "weld" themselves together then the aluminum threads pull out when you remove the bolt and you have an expensive repair on your hands. This is why I use anti-seize on spark plug threads, an old habit.

They are not torque to yield bolts which stretch as a means to determine how tight they are. That is typically used on head bolts. On those bolts you use a torque wrench to set them to an initial low torque specification. Then you tighten them by the required number of degrees. Then you go back and repeat, and repeat once again. There is no torque specification. The specification is the number of degrees you rotate the fastner.

I also use anti-seize on the retaining pin when I put it back in as it is also a lubricant and the pin is usually a very tight fit.

[ar38070]

Use anti-seize not loctite. If you torque the bolt correctly it will not come loose. Also I use anti-seize on all of the bolts. Another purpose of the anti-seize is to provide lubrication so that when you torque the bolt you get a good reading. When you use it do not get carried away. You only need to put a thin layer on the first 5 or so threads. Put a dab on your finger and spin the tip of the bolt in it. Right before I start reassembling I sit down and put anti-seize on all of the bolts.

New bolts are not expensive @$8 each. They come coated not in the sense of being smeared with paste but the finish is not that of an ordinary steel bolt. However it is not necessary to replace them especially if is is the first time that they have been reused IMHO. I have been told by several Dealer Porsche mechanics that it is not necessary.

I have removed my calipers numerous times (at least 4) and have not yet replaced the bolts (though I have a set in case I notice anything amiss). I have tracked my car 30+ days a year for the last 3 years and not had a failure. YMMV

[my996]

Dell, I found the article. I think this might have the answers you are looking for with great detail. All I have to do now is find a scanner so I can E-mail it as a .pdf file. hmmm - I could just zerox it and snail mail it to you (might be quicker because I don't have ready access to a scanner this week). Let me know what you want me to do.

Remember, whatever work you do, please take detailed pictures. I plan on doing the same thing over winter when the car is in the garage for the season. :D

Tony