brake upgrades for daily driver use at DE events

[Singe]

Have 2006 C4S Cab w/Ruf Kompressor. Go is good, whoa needs help. If I string together some really good laps I lose braking until the final inch of travel and then it's not at full stopping capability. Searched for brake related upgrades on this forum and would like to see if I can solicit feedback on experience with:

FLUID - MUST DO COMPLETE FLUSH AND REFILL

GS610

Castrol SRF

Any real difference?

DUCTS larger brake ducts

Will either Turbo brake ducts or GT3 brake duct spoilers fit a 997 S? One of them needs to be replaced, ok refitted, due to some unscheduled under body work from taking a previously uncharted path on & off the track so I'm doing this anyway.

"I just found a story that 997 GT-3 brake ducts fit on 997S cars with no modifications. They cost $30 from Suncoast. They also do not hang as low as other racing ducts."

Rubbing problems on street/driveways?

This is in Texas so the ducts are really moving already hot ambient air off the track surface over really hot brakes.

PADS

upgrade street to track? I will never do race.

Blue race pads allegedly half street/half track.

Who makes these?

Any recommendations on pads that still work well in daily use however bring the car's speed down faster would be great.

LINES

Stainless braided brake lines have been mentioned. Seems like overkill with new fluid, ducts, and pads.

Thanks in advance.

[ericinboca]

Have 2006 C4S Cab w/Ruf Kompressor. Go is good, whoa needs help. If I string together some really good laps I lose braking until the final inch of travel and then it's not at full stopping capability. Searched for brake related upgrades on this forum and would like to see if I can solicit feedback on experience with:

FLUID - MUST DO COMPLETE FLUSH AND REFILL

GS610

Castrol SRF

Any real difference?

DUCTS larger brake ducts

Will either Turbo brake ducts or GT3 brake duct spoilers fit a 997 S? One of them needs to be replaced, ok refitted, due to some unscheduled under body work from taking a previously uncharted path on & off the track so I'm doing this anyway.

"I just found a story that 997 GT-3 brake ducts fit on 997S cars with no modifications. They cost $30 from Suncoast. They also do not hang as low as other racing ducts."

Rubbing problems on street/driveways?

This is in Texas so the ducts are really moving already hot ambient air off the track surface over really hot brakes.

PADS

upgrade street to track? I will never do race.

Blue race pads allegedly half street/half track.

Who makes these?

Any recommendations on pads that still work well in daily use however bring the car's speed down faster would be great.

LINES

Stainless braided brake lines have been mentioned. Seems like overkill with new fluid, ducts, and pads.

Thanks in advance.

A couple of these I can address.

Pads: Once you get a bunch of experience under your belt, you will not find a single pad that will work for both street and track. MO, you will need a dedicated pad for the track. I trailer my track car, but I see many experienced guys drive to the track with a street pad, and change out at the beginning of the weekend and back at the end. Take a look at Pagid pads. I like Pagid Black and Pagid Yellow. If you are using street tires at the track, then you might want to try Orange too. Be sure you bed them properly or race pads will chunk. (I can explain, if needed, why street pads will never cut it on the track.)

Fluid: Definately flush your fluid. Not sure if there are any differences between SRF and GS. I use Ate - cheaper, but I do flush it twice a year, and bleed before every event. A couple of guys I know that use SRF flush at much longer intervals - year or more.

Ducts: I use GT3RS front ducts with no modifications on my 986S. My car is lowered, and I do not scrape. If I go agricultural while at the track, I have not lost them on the curbing. The ducts are much bigger than the stock ones. Clearly they push much more air through the wheel - the amount of dust collecting on the front wheels after installing these have been dramtically less. Can these go on a C4S?? Don't know - sorry. On my car, they simply attach to the leading transverse arm. Also, I live in SoFla - lots of hot air here too. Ducting will help, even in TX. You are heating the rotor to, in some cases, 900 or even a 1000 degrees. At those temps, 95 degrees is a cool breeze.

Stainless steel lines: I am still using my stock rubber lines. MO, the improvement is minimal unless your rubber lines are getting old and compliant.

I would recommend you flush the fluid and get a set of race pads (I recommend you call Craig at rennstore.com; he is very knowledgeable about pads). I think you will find the proper pad and new fluid will make a world of difference.

[PAULSPEED]

I would flush and put some high end fluid in (Ate).

The pads bed in real fast. I would do the rears at home and drive to the track.

I would then do the fronts at the track. The fronts always wear quicker

then the rears.

Get your GT-3 ducts here.

porscheatcost@sunsetimports.com

I bet there only $20.

Paul

[Singe]

Ruf Auto Centre put in Motul brake fluid, the GT3 brake air ducts, and Pagid Blues. Motul is less expensive than Castrol SRF and thought to be close in performance. Ducts had to be replaced anyway. Porsche Sport Pads are not available for the 997S.

Little squeaky at the end of a slow stop in traffic - nothing that really bothers me. Next DE is end of April at Motorsports Ranch. Will add to the thread with my observations after then. Thanks to all of you for your comments and suggestions.

BTW I don't plan on thrashing this car on a monthly basis at the track which is why I've gone with a compromised solution. If I really get the bug it's likely another Porsche will have to join the family.

[PAULSPEED]

I use the stock brakes during the winter and

try to put the fronts on at the track. I use

a product called Copaslip on the pads and

this works great at brake noise. It comes

out of the east coast.

Paul