Vario Cam solenoid swap in Car

[suburban99]

I am curently swapping my Bank 1 Vario Cam solenoid in car. I expect the parts to be here in a week or so.

I am also changing the front engine mount at the same time, so I left it out to allow engine movement up and down for ease of cam cover removal.

I built myself a cam holding tool as the porsche one is quite expensive. At the end of the job I will post dimensions of the tool for others to use.

Solenoid can be changed with engine in car. It took me about 3 hours to removed cam cover with tool installed. Engine needs to be dropped

an inch or 2 to allow access to top bolts. I had to swing the rear transmission support piece out of the way to allow cam cover to be pulled down and off.

I could not acces the 4th bolt as my jackstand was in the way. I could not get the spark plug tubes, but had to remove them before cam cover would come off.

I broke 2 of the 3 tubes...as engine was cold. Exhaust system was not removed at all. Rear tire removed.

[suburban99]

A couple more pictures

[1schoir]

A couple more pictures

Excellent photos with great tips on one of those jobs that dealers would really soak you! :clapping:

Looking forward to seeing details of the cam holding tool.

Regards, Maurice.

[suburban99]

A couple more pictures

Excellent photos with great tips on one of those jobs that dealers would really soak you! :clapping:

Looking forward to seeing details of the cam holding tool.

Regards, Maurice.

Received my parts from Sunset Imports today..Great price and service...Installed new Variocam Solenoid and tested old one. Re-installed cam cover and will finish up tomorow.

Very difficult to get the oil pump back on. Had to use grease to hold o-ring in place but difficult to line up oil pump drive to slot in camshaft. Not much room to work.

Will change out front engine mount tomorrow and get engine bolted back in car. Hopefully error codes gone. Bench tested old solenoid and it functions but not under pressure.

I held it down on my workbench with my thumb and applied 12v to the leads, and it would barely click. I tried the same thing with the new solenoid and could not hold it too the bench.

Lets hope problem solved.

[suburban99]

Here's a pictures of the tool I used to hold cams in place. Approx 4.5" center to center. But I cut a slot in the steel and slid them in until they fit the cams and then welded in place.

All done from inside car through engine access hole.

[Paul Fraser]

I think I am going to have to do mine. How much was the cam holding tool?

Also, in the last but one photo where is your tool holding the camshaft? Thanks.

[suburban99]

I think I am going to have to do mine. How much was the cam holding tool?

Also, in the last but one photo where is your tool holding the camshaft? Thanks.

Tool is attached to head and the pins go inside the indents in the ends of the camshaft. I made up my own tool...

They run about $150.00 here in Canada last time I checked. I ended up removing both camshafts and resetting timing (skipped a tooth)

as well I replaced the entire varia cam assembly the second time with a good used one. Changing just the solenoid is no biggie...Just make sure

you don't pinch the coil power supply wires as I did...(had to remove cover and start over)..good luck!

[Paul Fraser]

I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?

[suburban99]

I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?

I did not notice the timing was out when I first dug into the engine. After I changed the solenoid the same error codes kept coming back. Before changing the solenoid I tested the wires from the solenoid to the DME...and the wires for the camshaft position sensor to the DME. I also swapped the camshaft sensor from right side to left side and still had same error codes on right side.

The second time I took it apart I put the engine to TDC #1 and check the timing marks. The chain between the camshafts had skipped 1 tooth. I pulled the camshafts and the Varia Cam unit and the camshaft guides on the bottom of the Varia Cam unit were broken and you could see where chain was getting caught. A new varia cam unit is about $600-800 and the used one I got was $100 (excellent shape)

The only way to get them in or out is together. Not very easy when the engine is in car but possible...

[markdav]

For the holder, how much pressure does this need to bear. Seems like you could make it out of hardwood and dowels. Am I dreaming?

Do the two dowels fit into slots in the cam shaft or just press against the ends?

Thanks for your help - looks like I have a solenoid replacement job this w/e. Getting P1341 (DME 7.2).

[suburban99]

For the holder, how much pressure does this need to bear. Seems like you could make it out of hardwood and dowels. Am I dreaming?

Do the two dowels fit into slots in the cam shaft or just press against the ends?

Thanks for your help - looks like I have a solenoid replacement job this w/e. Getting P1341 (DME 7.2).

Cams have quite a bit of pressure as after the cover is removed they are only held in 1 place each, at the varia cam end of the camshaft.

This tends to get the cams to lift out of their respective "bearings" at the opposite end. The tool holds the cams down while cover is removed and re-installed.

The 2 pins fit into the ends of the camshaft as they have a recessed area..and the tool is bolted to a tapped hole in the head.

Make sure you checked the wiring for the Camshaft sensor and the solenoid bank 1 before you right off the solenoid.

[markdav]

Thanks - I checked the wiring last night.

I got 13 ohms across the solenoid.

Took a while to get a reading on the +12V on the solenoid connector but eventually got battery voltage (11.87V)

Put it all back together and the light disappeared this morning. May have nudged something or maybe just takes a while to re-register the fault. All said, the replacement work is postponed until I see the light come back on.

Thanks for advice about the clamp. I was thinking an alternative simple build would be a peice of L shaped aluminuim from teh local store and use short steel bolts at 4.5" spacing through self tapped holes in the aluminuim. Cut away the parts of the L bracket that interfere with the cam housing. That way avoiding welding equipment (which I don't have). Easier to work Aluminuim with saw and files.. What do you think?

M

[suburban99]

I see that you are in Washington..If you need to borrow the hold down tool I can lend it to you. I live in BC but work in BC and Tacoma. It could be picked up in Tacoma if needed.

[markdav]

Thank you! - have sent you 1:1 email via the board....

[Paul Fraser]

I have a P1531 and have found these camshaft holding tools on Ebay, $89.99: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...RK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

Don't think they ship to the UK though although am awaiting a reply to a email sent on Sunday (which I suspect won't be coming...) Also contacted Sir Tools who also haven't replied, nor seem to have any European distribution.

[Paul Fraser]

Listing has changed due to an error: only available as a pair: $175.

Got a reply from Samstag Sales, who do export, $179.99 from them and $40 or so post/insurance from USA to UK. May buy the pair and sell one on.

Edited August 12, 2009 by Paul Fraser

[lib]

I think if I get into this I may ask you another dozen questions if that is ok... :) For the moment though, how did you skip a tooth and why did you replace the entire assembly second time aroung (was that when you skipped a tooth)?

I did not notice the timing was out when I first dug into the engine. After I changed the solenoid the same error codes kept coming back. Before changing the solenoid I tested the wires from the solenoid to the DME...and the wires for the camshaft position sensor to the DME. I also swapped the camshaft sensor from right side to left side and still had same error codes on right side.

The second time I took it apart I put the engine to TDC #1 and check the timing marks. The chain between the camshafts had skipped 1 tooth. I pulled the camshafts and the Varia Cam unit and the camshaft guides on the bottom of the Varia Cam unit were broken and you could see where chain was getting caught. A new varia cam unit is about $600-800 and the used one I got was $100 (excellent shape)

The only way to get them in or out is together. Not very easy when the engine is in car but possible...

[lib]

Hi excellent stuff. I am in the process of doing the same job, I can see the timing marks for the crankshaft and the exhaust cam but I cannot see how to align the inlet cam. I should be grateful for your help with this. Thanks Lionel

[suburban99]

Have you seen this series on you tube? Have a look.

Edited September 27, 2009 by Loren
made video show

[lib]

Thank you suberban99

The video was superb, I certainly would not have been able to sort it out without this info. and the other info. on this subject.

Thanks again and to Renntech great site. :renntech:

I will write again and let you know how I get on.

arctic silver my97 2.5 man. gbox. RoW

[lib]

Hi, me again

I am in the process of putting it back together again. I have refitted the camshafts and the variocam mechanism, which by the way I didn't find anything suspect. Every thing appeared fine So most proberly I can expect the misfire and fault code to return.

Anyway, the reason for writing is, there are 4 bolts holding the gear and oil pump drive plate on the end of the exhaust cam. These 4 bolts pass through 4 elongated slots in the chain gear into the end of the exhaust cam.

Do you know what this adjustment is for, bearing in mind the slot at the opposite end of the exhaust cam sets the timing.

Thanks Lionel

Boxster 2.5 my97. 5 speed box. RoW. :renntech:

[txhokie4life]

These bolts hold the timing.

The timing is set with special pins from Porsche (I don't remember the part/tool #).

when the screws of these special pins are flush (if you have the tool you'll know what I mean)

then the timing is set --- you then tighten these bolts to 14 ft lbs of torque.

I just did this a couple days ago.

I'm surprised that these bolts along with the slotted nature of the cross are able to hold the timing,

but that is how it is designed.

Mike

[lib]

These bolts hold the timing.

The timing is set with special pins from Porsche (I don't remember the part/tool #).

when the screws of these special pins are flush (if you have the tool you'll know what I mean)

then the timing is set --- you then tighten these bolts to 14 ft lbs of torque.

I just did this a couple days ago.

I'm surprised that these bolts along with the slotted nature of the cross are able to hold the timing,

but that is how it is designed.

Mike

Thanks Mike

I shall have a look on eBay, hope I can find it. Sounds quite tricky.

Thanks again Lionel ;)

[vza]

Hi All, 99 Boxster 130k ...Going to investigate P1359 CEL code. Although the CEL disappeared after a battery disconnect and hasn't come back on at idle. Was reading about checking voltage and resistance at connector and applying voltage to solenoid to activate with engine off to listen for click or activate with engine running to listen for change in idle. My question is ...is it safe to use a jumper wire direct from battery as the 12v source and which side of connector is hot and ground(or wire color).Thanks 

[Ahsai]

You can just unplug the solenoid and connect a 9v battery to it to activate it. The polarity does not matter.