Problems with central locking unit at filler flap

[RFM]

US cars use different door locks as well. The US alarm control box, keys and door locks are specific. If you want to change to EUROPE, replace all this items.

[Simon2]

The used M534 alarm box i bought is from a UK-model. I can get both door locks from this car but will they fit in - steering weel and key lock on the right side in UK!

Also this UK car had a tilt sensor installed. Will this M534 box work in my US car without having the tilt sensor installed?

This will be a "international" car when it´s done... :D

[RFM]

I don't think RHD door locks will fit on LHD vehicles, cause the key cylinder lock connection portal is on the opposite side. Exchange of parts between US and Europe vehicles are possible as long the cars are LHD. I fear that you have done a wrong purchase.

[Simon2]

Your wright. When i bought the alarm box, i thought i would only need this part. I was very cheap so no big deal. But i found some europen door locks from a LHD car. I think i will try those. Is it just plug´n play or do the doorslocks have to be programmed by the alarm unit?

[RFM]

The door locks are plug and play, they contains only a mechanism, electric solenoid and micro switch, no electronics to program. The door locks are updated several times during the production, look out for that. Older European 986 without remote, with optional remote and the first generation with remote have different connectors.

[Simon2]

I did not found new door locks, but i found another M535 unit with the code to program it (that´s what the seller told mes). For my car (98), i would need part# 996 618 260 07. Will other parts# like 996 618 260 05 or 03 or others also work? Will the Porsche dealer only need a code to program it?

[Simon2]

Just to keep you guys updated - problem is solved. I had the car checked at the Porsche dealer. They put in a new Central Looking Unit and it had to be programed with a new key. They also noticed that both door locks were not working, after they had checked some options for the problem, that the doors still won´t lock. I replaced the locks with two used ones. Everything cost me about 1100 EUR...

Edited September 19, 2009 by Simon2

[prsch1]

Just to keep you guys updated - problem is solved. I had the car checked at the Porsche dealer. They put in a new Central Looking Unit and it had to be programed with a new key. They also noticed that both door locks were not working, after they had checked some options for the problem, that the doors still won´t lock. I replaced the locks with two used ones. Everything cost me about 1100 EUR...

I have been reading up on the door lock issue and wanted to request assistance. Car is a '98 Boxster with M535 option that experienced the water under seat occurrence. Replaced alarm control unit. Main issue is that the key remote control does not lock and unlock both doors. Also, the dash central lock button is not working. The driver's door can be locked using the key but even when locking the driver's door with the key, the passenger door remains unlocked. The remote is however able to open the rear trunk and the red LED on dash blinks when the remote is pressed. So it appears that the key remote is able to send signals.

Curiously, when the key remote control is pressed, the gas cap door pin actuates to lock but almost immediately retracts (and the gas cap actuator makes a buzzing sound in the process) so gas cap door is also always unlocked (even when manually locking the driver's door with the key, you hear a buzzing sound from the gas cap door actuator, and the gas cap door remains unlocked).

The windows drop down a few inches when the outside and inside door handles are used. Even with the emergency three times manual turn of the key on the driver's door, the passenger door remains unlocked.

Durametric shows the following alarm faults:

46:

Control locking synchronization

Status: present

Occurance Counter: 1

10:

Voltage failure at terminal 30 with alarm system active

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 1

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

47:

Control locking synchronization

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 13

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

25:

W lead

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 1

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

21:

W lead (DME immobilizer)

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 1

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

33:

Interior sensor faulty

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 14

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

23:

W lead

Status: not present

Occurance Counter: 31

This fault is displayed for informational purposes, it is not an indication of a problem and no repair is needed.

Thank you so much in advance for all your help.

[prsch1]

Just as an update, I ventured on removing the door panel and replacing the passenger side Door Lock Mechanism.

Thankfully, the passenger Door Lock Mechanism I bought now enables me to lock the passenger side door when I use the manual key lock on the drivers side (unlike before). Yet, three issues remain:

1. I am still not able to close the doors with the central locking button on the dash.

2. The driver's side door can only be locked and unlocked using the manual key and does not respond to the key remote control. If I use the key remote the passenger door and fuel door actuator locks momentarily and unlocks right up again (makes me think that the driver's side lock is keeping them from locking). If I first lock the driver's side door with the manual key lock, both driver's and passenger lock with some buzzing from the fuel door actuator. But when I use the key remote to unlock the doors, the passenger's side door unlocks (without any issue) but the driver's door stay locked (and can only be unlocked by using the manual key). Does this also suggest a defective driver's side Door Lock Mechanism?

3. Also, when I use the passenger side outside door handle, the window drops only slightly (and not fully - not enough to clear the roof top seal when closing the door) so windows bangs against the roof top seal) afraid it might break the window glass. Does this suggest a defective micro switch inside Door Lock Mechanism? (the driver's side windows drops down smoothly as it should).

When I lock the doors, there is buzzing sound at the fuel door actuator. I looked into the fuel door actuator when I lock the doors - the fuel door pin actuates normally (through the hole) but then retracts back immediately (if I do not first lock the driver's door with the manual key lock). If I first lock the driver's door with the manual key, the fuel door pin actuates but immediately retracts back. Yet, in both instances, there is a buzzing sound when it actuates (it is not binding - it just looks like it is making the buzzing sound because it wants to actuate further more but is not able - does this sound like a defective fuel door actuator?). Thank you so much in advance for all your help.