Problems with central locking unit at filler flap

[Simon2]

Hy guys,

strange problem. When i try to lock the car, the small bolt at the filler flap moves forward, stays for a second and then it´s going backwards. So i´m not able to lock the car, because also the doors unlock again. Any ideas? The right front fender have been replaced, so maybe this caused the problem. But why is the little bolt at the filler flap moving backwards.

Thanks, Stefan

[ssflai]

Hy guys,

strange problem. When i try to lock the car, the small bolt at the filler flap moves forward, stays for a second and then it´s going backwards. So i´m not able to lock the car, because also the doors unlock again. Any ideas? The right front fender have been replaced, so maybe this caused the problem. But why is the little bolt at the filler flap moving backwards.

Thanks, Stefan

Hope this help.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...1&hl=SSFLAI

[Simon2]

I´ve checked the link about the replacing of the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator.

But in my case, the locking "stick" that supposed to lock the fuel tank door, did reponse when the remote is pressed and it´s extending long enought. But it´s not staying in this entended position. So could this still be a defect gas door actuator? Or is it possible, that the central locking unit needs to be programmed again, because both doors are also not locking? I got the car this way so i don´t know what happend to the central locking unit or the actuator.

I just want to be sure, if the actuator has a defect and needs to be replaced or if this looks like an issue of the central locking unit. This would mean, that i have to go to the Porsche dealer....

Stefan

[RFM]

Let the car check on fault codes, big chance that the fault is in the door locks.

[1schoir]

I´ve checked the link about the replacing of the Gas/Fuel Door Actuator.

But in my case, the locking "stick" that supposed to lock the fuel tank door, did reponse when the remote is pressed and it´s extending long enought. But it´s not staying in this entended position. So could this still be a defect gas door actuator? Or is it possible, that the central locking unit needs to be programmed again, because both doors are also not locking? I got the car this way so i don´t know what happend to the central locking unit or the actuator.

I just want to be sure, if the actuator has a defect and needs to be replaced or if this looks like an issue of the central locking unit. This would mean, that i have to go to the Porsche dealer....

Stefan

Stefan:

Check under and behind the driver's seat for any moisture or water. If you got water in there, it may have affected the central locking unit.

Regards, Maurice.

[Simon2]

I checked the Alarm system with the Durametric - failure code 46 and 60.

Checked also the floor - the carpet behind the driver seat is wet, the compartment under the seat seems more or less try. I put an electric heater behind the driver seat to make the interiour dry.

Could the central locking unit be affected, even if the gas door get the signal to lock...?

Drivers door can only be locked with the key. No reaction on the remote control. The same with the passenger door... :huh:

[Simon2]

Just a question - i have a M535. Will a 534 or 531 also fit?

[Loren]

The gas door lock solenoid will not have any affect on the alarm/immobilizer control box. It simply assumes that the latch is either forward or withdrawn.

Fault code 46 Central locking synchronization

These faults are stored in the memory if at least one safe contact does not reach the safe position after two synchronization actuations towards safe.

Fault code 60 Central locking limit position locked not reached

This fault is stored in the following cases:

Switch for central locking is faulty

Open circuit in the supply lead to plug II pin 8 (terminal 30)

Short circuit to voltage/ground or open circuit in the supply lead to plug II pin 9

Short circuit to voltage/ground or open circuit in plug I pin 5

Short circuit to voltage/ground or open circuit in plug I pin 28

Short circuit to voltage/ground or open circuit in plug I pin 29

Door lock (driver's side / passenger's side) is faulty

Edited March 6, 2009 by Loren
correct wrong fault code

[Simon2]

Loren, did you mean 46 - it says synchronisation. I can not clear alarm failures with my Durametric.

Do you think the central locking unit has a defect? Will a M534 with a the matching key fit - i might get a cheap one, just in case?

[Loren]

Loren, did you mean 46 - it says synchronisation. I can not clear alarm failures with my Durametric.

Do you think the central locking unit has a defect? Will a M534 with a the matching key fit - i might get a cheap one, just in case?

Sorry, my bad - I've corrected the post above.

You may end up needing a PST2 or PIWIS to further test the door lock servos etc.

[Simon2]

Had the car checked this morning at the Porsche dealer. They told me, the central locking unit is not working correctly. I would need a new unit and a new key to match.

I have a unit from a salvage car including the keyfob. Can i put in the used one in the car and will this work - if, maybe , programmed by Porsche. They told me, it´s not possible, because the unit can only be programmed one time and a used one will not work. But they are not 100% sure.

Is it possible to change the unit with a used one or not ???

Thanks,

Stefan

[Loren]

Yes, but either way all keys and the immobilizer will need to be programmed.

[Simon2]

Thanks Loren for the quick answer!

So - just to be sure - i can:

- install my used central locking unit

- with the matching used key fob and the immobilizer (i only have one)

now the central locking unit should work.

Drive the car to the Porsche dealer with my old key (matching the lock and the immobilizer)

and Porsche can programm the immobilizer inside the used key to match the "car". Then change the blade. This will work?

[Loren]

You will need all of your keys unique 24 digit code and your cars IPAS codes.

If you do not have the codes for the old keys and the dealer can not get that information - then you will need new key(s).

[Simon2]

I have a little Porsche card from the salvaged car, which says "key code" but it´s only 8 digits: 83157005.

Whats IPAS codes?

If i use the key fob which belongs to the used central locking unit - then, is it not only necessary to change the blade and immobilizer (or reprogramm it) to get the car started?

[Loren]

I have a little Porsche card from the salvaged car, which says "key code" but it´s only 8 digits: 83157005.

Whats IPAS codes?

If i use the key fob which belongs to the used central locking unit - then, is it not only necessary to change the blade and immobilizer (or reprogramm it) to get the car started?

Your dealer will have your IPAS security codes for your car.

The other key fob might work.

[Simon2]

i took the central locking unit out of the car. It´s a 535 - us version. The one from the salvage car is a 534 - european version. Unfortunatly, the connector on the left side has not the same layout...

I opened the unit and they look very simular. i can cut away the little plastic nose from the male connector to make it fit in the unit. Would that be a good idea or can this cause a damage to the unit or even other electronic things...?

By the way - there has been no signs of water inside the unit...

[Loren]

The RoW version won't work for you - wrong frequency.

[Simon2]

The pins of the connector are the same. and the motherboard has the same numbers: USe 07/97 Best.-Seite 70504006005

i thought if i would change the hole unit, it would be okay - just sending on another frequency. So i have to buy a new one... :huh:

[Loren]

I do not know the law in the US but I am sure there is a reason that the US uses 315 MHz and most of Europe uses 433 MHz.

If you live in the US try some other salvage yards like Oklahoma Foreign or Silver Star Recycling.

[Simon2]

Sorry, i forgot to mention - i´m from Germany. Over here, it makes no difference if you use 315 Mhz or 433 Mhz. I thought, the 415 MHz might also work with my US specs Boxster. Just plug´n play...

[Loren]

Sorry, i forgot to mention - i´m from Germany. Over here, it makes no difference if you use 315 Mhz or 433 Mhz. I thought, the 415 MHz might also work with my US specs Boxster. Just plug´n play...

You will just need to match keys and immobilizer of the same frequency.

[Simon2]

But i have the matching 433 Mhz keyfob with the immobilizer. I just need to cut the connector so that it fits inside the module. Should this work?

[Loren]

If your car is a US car then it likely does not have the tilt sensor (M536).

[Simon2]

No M536, only options are 232 396 454 490 502 535 551 582 688 692

Update: I made the connectors match and put in the used M534 unit with 433 Mhz in the car. The doors did not open or close with the keyfob; i was only able to open the trunk lid - the same like with the other old M535 unit. The only different thing that happend is that both windows went down when i pushed the keyfob.

Then i changed the keyhead with the M534 platine (see picture) and i could go to ignition, but where not able to start the car. My "old" key had the little "glass pill" (? transponder/immobilizer ?) on the side, the "new" key from the used M534 unit had it on the top (i guess - red circle?).

Then i installed the old M535 unit back again, changed the key back and the car started, but no door locking, unlocking with the fob.

The guy i bought the used unit from told me, that it worked fine bevore he remode it. So - what should i do? Does the M534 unit only needs to be programmed?

When i first went to the Porsche dealer, they took a lock at the car and said it might be the doorlock itself. Then they put it at the computer and then said, i would need a new unit.

So - what should i do next? If there´s nothing else left that i can do by myself, i guess, i would bring the car to the dealer and have a new unit installed. And it´s not only the money. I would like to solve the problem by myself (with the help on renntech, of course) :renntech:

Edited March 25, 2009 by Simon2