Power window mechanism broken

[DRCHRIS1]

Hi Guys

My first post so be gentle! Firstly I'd like to say thanks to all who post on here as it has been very helpful, I have done all sorts with the help from you guys, including speaker upgrades, MAF cleaning, throttle body cleaning - mainly the easy stuff, but I couldn't have done it without this site!

Onto my problem - I wound down the driver's side window a couple of days ago, heard some crunching and then it stopped working. It stopped about 5cm down from the top. I did the door speaker install about 6 months ago with a new wooden baffle (again thanks for the info!) so I am familiar with taking the door apart. Yesterday I took it apart again and had a look to see if I can fix it myself - it seems a bit tougher than I had hoped! After removing the speaker baffle, which incidentally was wet and falling to bits, I discovered that there was a cable which had snapped - this clearly seems to be the problem, but I have no idea what to do next. It seems that you can't take the door apart any more so its impossible to get to the window mechanism to look at it or replace the relevant bits. I think the motor itself is fine as I heard it whirring away when I pressed the up/down button. One other annoying problem is that my windows squeak when they go up and down. Its not so bad in the winter but in the summer it is soooo embarrassing.

I have actually just read all the rules etc of posting and came across this before posting:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

It looks quite helpful, it shows how to replace the whole mechanism, but I think my only problem is that the cable has snapped - is it available on its own? Has anyone had any experience of fixing just the cable? I would also appreciate thoughts on the wet baffle and the squeaky windows.

Oh...Boxster 2001 2.7 manual RHD

Thanks guys

Chris

[RFM]

Power window mechanism is only available as unit WITHOUT the motor, the squeak is caused by the mechanism which gave hot the best part of his live.

[1schoir]

Hi Guys

My first post so be gentle! Firstly I'd like to say thanks to all who post on here as it has been very helpful, I have done all sorts with the help from you guys, including speaker upgrades, MAF cleaning, throttle body cleaning - mainly the easy stuff, but I couldn't have done it without this site!

Onto my problem - I wound down the driver's side window a couple of days ago, heard some crunching and then it stopped working. It stopped about 5cm down from the top. I did the door speaker install about 6 months ago with a new wooden baffle (again thanks for the info!) so I am familiar with taking the door apart. Yesterday I took it apart again and had a look to see if I can fix it myself - it seems a bit tougher than I had hoped! After removing the speaker baffle, which incidentally was wet and falling to bits, I discovered that there was a cable which had snapped - this clearly seems to be the problem, but I have no idea what to do next. It seems that you can't take the door apart any more so its impossible to get to the window mechanism to look at it or replace the relevant bits. I think the motor itself is fine as I heard it whirring away when I pressed the up/down button. One other annoying problem is that my windows squeak when they go up and down. Its not so bad in the winter but in the summer it is soooo embarrassing.

I have actually just read all the rules etc of posting and came across this before posting:

http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/window/

It looks quite helpful, it shows how to replace the whole mechanism, but I think my only problem is that the cable has snapped - is it available on its own? Has anyone had any experience of fixing just the cable? I would also appreciate thoughts on the wet baffle and the squeaky windows.

Oh...Boxster 2001 2.7 manual RHD

Thanks guys

Chris

Chris:

As RFM says, the cable itself is not available as a separate part. You can only buy the entire window regulator mechanism as a unit. Once you have your new window regulator, you just remove the electric motor from the old unit and then install the electric motor onto the new window regulator.

One shortcut to avoid having to measure the distances from the front edge of the window glass etc., is to NOT wipe clean the bottom edge of the window and use the "dirt marks" to locate the glass onto the two window clamping jaws.

One other note. If you haven't yet removed your old regulator assembly, be sure to mark the location of the base of each of the two window regulator legs on the inside surface of the bottom (horizontal) face of the door. You can then use those marks when you install the new regulator legs (10mm bolts) without having to be concerned with the inboard/outboard angle of the window glass.

Also, to avoid having to immediately have to open up the door panel again, make sure you follow the caution about where the "block" insert is located at the base of the forward leg of the regulator. There are two possibilities with respect to how your regulator came pre-set, one for Boxster height, and the other for 996 height.

Your wetness problem may just be the result of not having carefully re-adhered the inner foam liner to the inside metal surface of the door. That also usually results in having some moisture migrating to the bottom (carpet covered) section of the door panel.

Since you have already opened the door panel up a few times, I'm assuming that you are aware of not having the ignition on while the door is apart. Otherwise you will set off the airbag light. Just thought that I would mention it to be safe.

Regards, Maurice.

[DRCHRIS1]

Thanks guys, I'll buy the regulator and try my best. Thanks for the tips Maurice, I'm sure it will all make sense once take it apart again. With regards to the ignition, I usually unplug the battery, but its really annoying as it sets off the alarm for about 3 mins - is it sufficient just to not have the keys in the ignition?

You are right about the moisture, in fact there is no foam on the drivers door - thats how I found it when I did the speakers. I'll have a look if I can get one from somewhere - do I just glue it back on?

So the squeaking comes from the mechanism? It sounded more like the window rubbing on the rubber seals.

Anyway, that takes care of my Saturday

[1schoir]

Thanks guys, I'll buy the regulator and try my best. Thanks for the tips Maurice, I'm sure it will all make sense once take it apart again. With regards to the ignition, I usually unplug the battery, but its really annoying as it sets off the alarm for about 3 mins - is it sufficient just to not have the keys in the ignition?

You are right about the moisture, in fact there is no foam on the drivers door - thats how I found it when I did the speakers. I'll have a look if I can get one from somewhere - do I just glue it back on?

So the squeaking comes from the mechanism? It sounded more like the window rubbing on the rubber seals.

Anyway, that takes care of my Saturday

I am not 100% sure if just taking the keys out of the ignition is sufficient, but logically it should be. If you don't want to take a chance (I wouldn't unless I had a Durametric, PST2 or PIWIS at my disposal), why not just unplug the alarm horn before disconnecting the battery? The alarm horn is the one located next to the battery, below the base of the windshield, near the brake booster. If your alarm is sounding when you disconnect the battery, you must have an overseas car.

Definitely replace the foam/vinyl liner. Some have reported that if the liner is not installed, or not installed properly, water can actually intrude into the cabin from the bottom of the door panel, and possibly find its way to the central alarm computer. The computer is located under the driver's side seat (left side) in U.S. cars, not sure if it's under the other seat in overseas cars.

You can adhere the liner to the door with a flexible adhesive silicone sealant or possibly revive the old sealant with a heat gun or hair dryer if it remained on the metal door skin (as opposed to having remained with the old missing liner).

Hard to tell where the squeaking comes from, but replacing the regulator which you must do anyway will help narrow it down, or possibly eliminate it.

On the topic of the airbag light, you may have to move the window up on the regulator mechanism to line up the two bolts that hold the tops of the legs in place. Don't be tempted to turn the car on and operate the switch. You can move the window up manually before you re-install the electric motor.

Have a great Saturday!

Regards, Maurice.

[BlueBox]

To stop the alarm going off on my 2003, just switch on the ignition and then remove the battery.

Don't forget to remove the key before reconnecting the battery !

I replaced my window mechanism because the cable had broken, it goes rusty on the bottom left hand side, I going to spray the other side when I get chance, there are two rubber things at each side of the bottom of the door that can be removed, without having to remove the door membrane.

It took me most of the day to change the window mechanism and swap over the motor, most of the time I spent carefully removing the door membrane as this is not cheap to buy!

Tip: if your window mechanism squeaks your mechanism is just about to fail!

I think the squeak is cause by not having any grease on the cable / window runners.

I used masking tape on the outside of the window (fully up) to mark its position so it only took a few seconds to reline the glass with the outside of the door.

Regards,

Chris.

Edited February 25, 2009 by BlueBox

[1schoir]

Chris:

One more thing I forgot to mention.

The window regulator is the same part for 986 and 996, but you have to make sure that the "bump stop" at the base of the front leg of the regulator is set at the right position for your particular model. If you don't the window will not go down to clear the top of the door on a 986.

I think "Tool Pants" has some photos in one of his posts showing what the bump stop looks like and what position it should be in.

Also, in the diagram that Chris posted, you can see the two nuts at the tops of the legs (both labeled #3) that I was referring to regarding not operating the electrical switch to line up with the holes in the door skin that allow you to tighten them.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited February 25, 2009 by 1schoir

[BlueBox]

Maurice,

Your right the 986 and 996 have different setups, I just cheated (see tech note 57 51 37 for the hard way) if you place the glass in the same position and just adjust the glass holder clamp to hold the glass at the bottom and adjust the screw holder up and down.

Items 3 screws at the bottom were also marked using tape and a black pen to ensure the angle was the same.

I just checked my minimum window height and it fine.

note. after reconnecting the battery the windown regualtor controller needs to "learn" the max and min travel values, just hold the window switch down for 5 seconds and its reaches its limits and the ECU will store these values, so when you pull on the door handle the window will drop by a set amount to clear the seal before the door is fully opened.

Here is the real Porsche POSES tech note 57 51 37 - Adjustment instructions for assembly of the door, details to setup. (without picutures)

Standardising the power windows

The system must be re-standardised after an interruption in the power supply to the power window electronics in the door. The position values for the short-stroke lowering function, position-controlled lowering function in the case of convertible top actuation and enabling for "automatic start-up of window closing" (one-touch function) are redefined. The standardisation process is initiated by continuous actuation of the operating button Raise window .

Hold down the button Raise window until the window is closed and is switched off by the blockage detection function of the power windows.

Precondition for operation of the power windows

Ignition switched on.

Ignition key should not be removed from the steering lock with the ignition switched off.

The door is opened for the first time after switching off the ignition.

Door opened.

Fitting the door window in the clamping jaws

1. Insert the door window through the door channel into the clamping jaws of the front and rear drivers.

2. Position the door window corner flush with the driver at front.

Note

The bottom edge of the window must rest on the screw during adjustment.

3. Tighten the clamping jaws after completing the adjustment.

Tightening torque: 8.5 Nm (6.5 ftlb.)

Adjusting the door window angle in the vehicle's longitudinal direction

Driver

1. Adjust to equalise the angle of the door window on the clamping jaws of the driver (upwards or downwards).

Adjustment range 10 mm

2. Tighten the clamping jaw after completing the adjustment

Adjusting the door window height

1. Adjust the upper limit stops of the drivers by screwing the Torx screw T30 in or out with socket E6 in or against the direction of travel.

Adjustment range approx. 15 mm

2. Adjust the drivers so that they meet the upper limit stops at the same time.

Note

The adjusting screws of the drivers for the upper limit stops for the door window height are accessible through 2 holes at the bottom of the door.

Adjustment procedure:

1. Open the doors

2. Lock door lock with a screwdriver.

3. Move the power window regulator into its upper position.

4. Adjust door window height at the drivers so that the door window evenly projects approx. 2 mm above the roof strip.

Checking the adjustment

1. Close the doors.

2. Use a wax marker to mark the door window along the roof strip.

3. Actuate the door handle until the window lowering function is activated.

Adjustment valve for window lowering function approx. 13 mm

Note

The wax marking along the door window should be uniformly approx. 4 mm.

Adjustment of the door window pressing force on the door seal at the top and sides

1. Move the power window unit rails by approx. 10 mm outwards or inwards.

Note

The adjusting nuts of the power window unit rails for the pressing force of the door window upper edge against the convertible top are accessible through two holes at the bottom of the door.

Adjustment procedure:

1. Open the doors.

2. Move the power window regulator into its upper position and undo the combination nuts M 6 of the power window rails.

3. Adjust the power window unit so that the upper edge of the door window is sufficiently pressed against the door seal at the side

Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7.5 ftlb.)

Checking the adjustment:

Clamp a sheet of paper between the door window and door seal.

Note

It must not be possible to pull out the sheet of paper.

Adjusting the lower stop of the power window unit

Note

When replacing the power window unit, make sure that the correct position of the lower limit stop is selected for the respective model.

There are two bores lying one above the other with the screwed-on limit stops in the front power window unit rail.

A limit stop for the model 986, 986S must not be removed.

Regards,

Chris.

Edited February 25, 2009 by BlueBox

[1schoir]

Chris:

Looks like you've got everything covered! :cheers:

Regards, Maurice.

[DRCHRIS1]

Thanks guys, I suppose I better get started!

For info the door membrane cost me £38 and is self adhesive.

I'll report back tonight...not too late I hope!

[BlueBox]

Drchris1,

Do you know the part number for the door membrane ?

I thought it was over £90...

[DRCHRIS1]

Thanks Maurice and Chris, it all went well, it was actually far easier than I expected. The window works perfectly....however....whilst i was in there i made myself a new speaker bafffle (the other was wet and falling apart) and installed it, the problem I have now is that there is horrible distortion noise on bass heavy music when I turn up the stereo. I suspect that is must be the membrane behind the speaker that is being made to vibrate by the speaker. I'm not sure why this doesn't happen on the passenger side so I guess I will have to take both doors apart again and compare the two.

One point to note on adding a new membrane is that you have to remove the airbag as the membrane needs to go behind it - its no big job, just undo the 4 bolts holding it in and unclip the connection. The unclipping of the connection was the hardest bit, a small screwdriver or very small blade will help.

I unplugged the alarm siren....why i never thought of that myself i don't know!! thanks Maurice, the neighbours appreciated that tip!

I bought the membrane from my local Porsche specialist (luckily i have one 2 miles away). I don't have the part number with me as i did the work at my parents place (a bit more space there and more tools) and all the packaging is there. As I am going back today to investigate the noise I'll get the part no. later.

The unplugging of the battery - is this so that the airbag doesn't go off in my face? Its just that ideally i need power so that i can turn the stereo on to see what is making the new unwelcome noise.

regards

Chris

[BlueBox]

You don't need to unplugged the alarm siren to stop the alarm going off, just switch "ON" the ignition and then remove the battery power, this disables siren. Don't forget to remove the key before reconnecting the battery !

Did you get chance to find what the membrane part number is ?

Regards,

Chris.

[1schoir]

...

The unplugging of the battery - is this so that the airbag doesn't go off in my face? Its just that ideally i need power so that i can turn the stereo on to see what is making the new unwelcome noise.

regards

Chris

Chris:

You have to be VERY careful when you are dealing with or handling the airbag. It is literally explosive. The recommendation is to disconnect the battery and wait 5 minutes before messing with the airbag. Also, when you remove it and put it down, place it in an out of the way place with the hard side away from you.

Regards, Maurice.

[gto3000]

Wonderful write up, thks guys ... :renntech:

Just some question need to clarify, from Suncoast Porsche, the window regulator is not in cross position as attach picture shown,

Will it fix with the power window motors ?

Thank you for the help & feedback ....

[1schoir]

Wonderful write up, thks guys ... :renntech:

Just some question need to clarify, from Suncoast Porsche, the window regulator is not in cross position as attach picture shown,

Will it fix with the power window motors ?

Thank you for the help & feedback ....

Install the new one exactly as the old one was installed and you can't go wrong. Pay attention to the two little slots near the base of the forward leg and choose the right one for your model.

Again, if you duplicate the old setup with your new one you won't have a problem there either.

Regards, Maurice.

[gto3000]

When I open the door handle, both side window do not drop few inch, so I have to push it down a little manually & closed the door, it will raise up automatically ok.

Any problem & any adjustment need to do on the window regulator ?

TQ

Edited May 12, 2009 by gto3000