AOS Clarification

[shihman]

ok guys, i was finally able to nudge the middle hose off and taken the old AOS out. not i have the new AOS on but i can't get the accordion hose completely down (see pic circled in red). is that ok? i used a plastic tie to hold the hose clamp open and will cut it to close it.

also i do realize the plastic tube (part of the AOS) is not completely in as well. but it should go all the way in after i tighten the 2 - 10mm bolts correct?

[Brad Roberts]

That is fine, and it will pull into the block as you tighten the two 10mm bolts :)

Move that bracket and connector out of the way!!

B

[shihman]

move the bracket and the connector out of the way to push the accordion hose down more? so it needs to be completely flush?

[Brad Roberts]

It is fine where it is :) it is just MUCH easier to move all that out of the way :)

B

[shihman]

good to hear. i am onto finishing it now.

will report back and hopefully will be complete when i do. ;)

thank you all.

[Brad Roberts]

I need to run down to Aase bros. today for some dyno work, but I'll be back in a couple of hours. Take your time. Be careful!

B

[Glyn]

good to hear. i am onto finishing it now.

will report back and hopefully will be complete when i do. ;)

thank you all.

Well done matey, can we send all Boxster owners with suspect AOS to your place now for repair? The dealer will charge over (in GBP) £500, so you have saved a fortune.

You will now know all the difficult bits of the job in detail - wont be long before you are on this forum advising someone else how to do it

Really pleased for you mate - now forget all this talk about getting rid of the car

[1schoir]

move the bracket and the connector out of the way to push the accordion hose down more? so it needs to be completely flush?

The photo that you posted shows the bellows not completely seated, although as Brad says, it's probably sufficient.

If you want to try to get it completely seated, do as Brad says and unbolt that one bracket that is in the way and you will have enough access to pull the bellows down flush. It's only one bolt to back out, and you'll have lots of room when you move the bracket out of the way.

If you can get the two 10mm bolts started (you should start them by hand so that you minimize the risk of cross-threading them) they will pull the AOS flush onto the side of the engine when you finish them up with your tools. One good way to do this is to use just the socket (no ratchet attached) and turn the bolt with the socket on it counterclockwise, slowly, until you hear/feel a slight click. At that point, turn the bolt/socket clockwise and it should engage properly in the threads. Then you can tighten it properly with your tools.

You are almost done. Be careful with that zip tie, there is a lot of force in that clamp at the bottom of the bellow when the clamp is compressed.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited February 25, 2009 by 1schoir

[Brad Roberts]

Getting rid of the car?? :o NO WAY!! From across the pond I can walk you through 99% of anything you will ever need to do to the car. Some of it may require some special tools :) but track me down if you run across anything else!!

I have spent a lot of time out near the Elstree studio's in Herfordshire over the years :) I love the UK :)

b

[shihman]

I SWEAR AOS MUST HATES MY GUTS. the bellow just will not seat correctly. the front part will go down but the back side is still sticking up. i have taken AOS out like 15 times already to adjust the position and the hose clamp. the clamp is not even pinching down, it is very loose around the hose yet the bellow just will not go down right. i can't applying any pressure on the back side. what am i suppose to do now? i am so close...

[shihman]

ok guys, i am sorry to flood the tread with frustrations. but i just want to report back that I DID IT!!!. i finally got the bellow to seat it flush and release the plastic tie, screw on the 2 bolts and it did tighten the plastic tube into the block, connect the middle hose, connect the new Y-Tube. it has been few excruciating days with torn skin on fingers, hands and arms and few bruises. but you are all correct, the feeling is extremely satisfying, and that's an understatement. again, i could not have done this without ALL the help, patience and support from you guys. (too mushy, yeah i think so too :lol: ) anyway, i am glad i did it myself and it did saved me about $600, quote from my dealer and another independent shop.

now, next step for me is to change the middle section of the oil tube. i had a leak which gave me an error dose of P1130. after i temporarily sealed it with hose tape and the code went away. it looked simply enough. but it's never as easy as it looks. especially the end that is buried all the way inside the cavity, just outside of the oil tank. i released the hose clamp on the end by the Y-Tube but i can not disengage the end and i have no leverage to apply any force either. i thought about cutting it in half so i can twist the end to break it loose. but my concern is how do i get to the other end?

Also, while i was moving AOS around and i broke a plastic tube (see pic). inside the tube is a metal cable. is this just the trunk release cable or do i need to replace this one too?

i am getting pretty excited about doing more fixes.

[Brad Roberts]

You really should have replaced that oil fill pipe. They are not expensive and the new ones are of better quality :( Much easier when the AOS is not in the way.

B

[shihman]

i knew it. actually i have already purchased the pipe. so, what now? :(

[Brad Roberts]

Practice :) If you want it done right, remove the AOS and replace that oil pipe. The engine pulls a vacuum on itself. If that pipe leaks, it is essentially a vac leak and becomes unmetered air entering the intake. It is not a lot.. but it will also stress your new AOS if it is leaking.

You are good at it now. Just get some of those brackets out of the way!! make it as easy on yourself as possible!!

Something else I do: CLEAN that area before you start on it. I believe you have "Simple Green" over there :)

B