Rear Suspension CV Boots and Drive Axel

[usaf-lt-g]

Hey guys,

I may be replacing my rear CV boots and drive axel (not sure yet if any of it needs replacing or not yet... but i always research first :) ). In any case, I'm looking at the tools, and it talks about special tool 9560 for the ball joint press. I saw a previous post about using the Harbor Freight Tools equivalent. This is ITEM 92882-1VGA on their website, which is a 5 piece kit. However, it's labeled 5 piece "FRONT END" service tool kit. Does that matter?

Also in regards to the drive axel, I understand that a new drive axel was introduced for the 2003 model and that in my case, my 00 Boxster S uses M8 bolts to secure the inner cv joint and the newer uses M10 Bolts, but that there's some "transitional style M8 bolt equipped with an M10 guide." What the heck part # is needed for that? Is there anything else special I would need if I wanted to replace both the CV boots and drive axels? I'm guessing this a prime Loren candidate question :)

[Glyn]

Why use a ball joint press.

Loosen the nut, take it off to clean the threads (or untill you can turn the nut by hand) then screw on by hand, use a wooden or metal bar to apply pressure away from the joint then a quick hit with the hammer on the arm that holds the joint - It wil snap apart without any damage.

Ive never used a ball joint press -------ever and ive not damaged threads or lubrication boots either - just a bit of care

[ericinboca]

Are you talking about releasing the ball joint on the lower control arm from the wheel carrier?

If so, I recommend a ball joint separator - available at harbor freight or auto parts stores - like this.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=99849

Be careful though. You have to move the rubber boot on the ball joint down as much as possible to get the collar of this tool in tight against the metal shank - it is barely long enough as it is - if any of the boot is in the way, the end of the hinged jaw does not sit square on the head of the threaded rod. It is easy to crush and distort the head of the threaded rod that comes up out of the ball joint. You can screw it up enough to need a replacement control arm. (At least I have :o )

I have also pulled the axle and wheel carrier with the control arm still attached to the wheel carrier. I was able to smack the control arm with a hammer several times after liberal application of PB Blaster - the vibrations can release the shank from the carrier. When reassembling, use plenty of anti seize.

[RFM]

Beating with a hammer (hard metal) on the control arm or hub (light alloy) is not a good idea :huh: use a ball joint separator, they are made for this.

[usaf-lt-g]

Beating with a hammer (hard metal) on the control arm or hub (light alloy) is not a good idea :huh: use a ball joint separator, they are made for this.

I agree... Just looking for the best "success" one out there for ease of use / future use. Wondering what everyone recommends.