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Posted
So if the key gets pushed more than 256 times, it loses sync, and more than 1024 times (as could easily happen in a pocket), it will never ever ever work again? Isn't there some way to reset them both back without having to pay $300 for a new key?

So, I know I've seen websites out there where you can purchase the "head" (metal cut part of the key) and the black porsche cover (not sure if it comes with a chip or not) for pretty cheap. That being said, let's say you purchase that for $25. What's the cheapest route to either get a new key and have it programmed, or have the one that's not working programmed. There has to be a cheaper route than $300. Yes I realize with a PIWIS or OBDII you could do this yourself... but I don't have one :) Only the Durametric kit, and that doesn't allow you to program your own keys :)

Would be curious what the cheapest route is. I know i've seen some places recently (hardware stores) that will cut fancy cars keys and have the capability to program the chips. Not sure if that applies though.

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  • Admin
Posted
So if the key gets pushed more than 256 times, it loses sync, and more than 1024 times (as could easily happen in a pocket), it will never ever ever work again? Isn't there some way to reset them both back without having to pay $300 for a new key?

So, I know I've seen websites out there where you can purchase the "head" (metal cut part of the key) and the black porsche cover (not sure if it comes with a chip or not) for pretty cheap. That being said, let's say you purchase that for $25. What's the cheapest route to either get a new key and have it programmed, or have the one that's not working programmed. There has to be a cheaper route than $300. Yes I realize with a PIWIS or OBDII you could do this yourself... but I don't have one :) Only the Durametric kit, and that doesn't allow you to program your own keys :)

Would be curious what the cheapest route is. I know i've seen some places recently (hardware stores) that will cut fancy cars keys and have the capability to program the chips. Not sure if that applies though.

You can buy your keys from Sunset Imports and they will come with a security code tag. To program them you will need someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester as well as your cars (IPAS) security codes (obtainable from your dealer if you ask for them).

To program the keys the shop will need:

your car

any existing keys

your (IPAS) security codes

any new keys

Expect to pay for 1 hour labor to do this.

Posted
You can buy your keys from Sunset Imports and they will come with a security code tag. To program them you will need someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester as well as your cars (IPAS) security codes (obtainable from your dealer if you ask for them).

To program the keys the shop will need:

your car

any existing keys

your (IPAS) security codes

any new keys

Expect to pay for 1 hour labor to do this.

Hmm, would the IPAS Security Codes be written anywhere on the car per chance? What do they look like typically? If I don't have them already does the dealership charge "extra" for the security codes because I don't have a clue what mine are, i only got 1 key with the car. I take it the dealership will "cut" the blank(s) in that service time charge?

Advance Thanks for the help Loren.

  • Admin
Posted
You can buy your keys from Sunset Imports and they will come with a security code tag. To program them you will need someone with a PST2 or PIWIS tester as well as your cars (IPAS) security codes (obtainable from your dealer if you ask for them).

To program the keys the shop will need:

your car

any existing keys

your (IPAS) security codes

any new keys

Expect to pay for 1 hour labor to do this.

Hmm, would the IPAS Security Codes be written anywhere on the car per chance? What do they look like typically? If I don't have them already does the dealership charge "extra" for the security codes because I don't have a clue what mine are, i only got 1 key with the car. I take it the dealership will "cut" the blank(s) in that service time charge?

Advance Thanks for the help Loren.

No.

IPAS codes could allow someone to reprogram systems on your car and steal it.

If you get them from your dealer lock them away in a safe or safe deposit box.

Posted

It was stated earlier in the thread that maybe the 1024 could be fixed with inverting the battery in the key. There is a timing sequence to follow.

The above site has a link with a story about getting a cheap key creation. Cheap being relative.

http://www.ppbb.com/boards/ppbbphp/showfla...;o=&fpart=1

Well, I tested my keys and they both are transmitting in the wireless world - emitting when the buttons are pressed. Which means, for whatever reason my car, the receiver, is no longer happy with the key's transmission. The keys are working for me. Since I have done all the steps to try to re-synchronize the keys to the car and the keys work fine manually, I guess it is off the the dealer to try to reprogram the keys to the immobilizer as Loren has stated. I will let everyone know what this ends up costing me to get two keys working again.

Posted (edited)

What a royal PITA these keys are... and the lengths that we will go to in order to avoid paying $250 for a new, functional key. Its a ripoff, for sure.

I have one functional key and one dead one. The dead one has a dead battery. I have always assumed that since it has been dead for over 3 years that it will have to be reprogrammed whenever I get around to replacing the battery. Right? After reading all of your posts, now Im not even sure if it will ever work!

FYI, I recently bought a new key from Sunset.

996-637-243-01 "Handsender" $108.70

996-538-531-00 Blank Key 16.25

The handsender definitely has the "guts" in it and a battery. When you press it, the red light blinks.

I probably could re-use one of my old keys (the metal part) in the new handsender to save the $16 (and whatever I end up paying to have it CUT... dont tell me, let me guess: $996?).

Of course now I still have to get that handsender programmed (1 hour labor = $90-$125)

This is just a silly amount of money for a frikkin key. Only reason I'm doing it is because I thought it would be nice to have a nice, shiny new key for when I am ready to sell the car.

If anybody actually gets their old keys with new batteries to work without paying for a re-programming please post the info.

Edited by vette67
Posted

I too have two keys with one dead, both worked when i bought the car, i locked one in the safe at home, when put away it worked - battery did not die, however some months later the remote locking did not respond to the key.

I know about the 256 and 1024 presses thing - can anyone clarify - If i have unlocked the car with one key over 1024 times does that automatically mean the spare key will now be out of sync and therefore not work.

Dont mind getting a replacement as a spare but if i simply put it away for 12 months and then when needed its out of sync then what is the point in having a spare remote?

Posted

For what its worth... I evidently just had $300 dollars worth of success... One of my keys for my 2000 986 suddenly began to emit a constant red light from the transmitter and no longer would open/lock/enable the central locking system. Tried a new battery, disconnecting the vehicle's battery (works fro the MAF sensor - though it might work for this), and then tried the "voodoo" instructions previously provided of reversing battery in the key, rotating it within the battery clip while chanting "eff the dealer" 3 times, replaced it with correct polarity and abra-freekin'-kadabra... I'm back in business.

This site has now saved me about $1200.00 bucks total in what should have been dealer-performed "repairs" (MAF sensor replacement, secondary cat removal/bypass, and now the mysterious possessed key fix) that can be completed by a well-trained monkey... a well-trained highly compensated German monkey, of course.

Thanks all who contribute to these forums!! :lol:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
....

can anyone clarify - If i have unlocked the car with one key over 1024 times does that automatically mean the spare key will now be out of sync and therefore not work.

...

Based on this excerpt from the manual

The lock-in range has now been reset to zero (
as is the case with every recognized transmitter operation
)

I am guessing that there is an internal counter in the key which is reset upon each successful communication with the car. So, normally, both keys should have this counter to zero and there is no question of the spare ever getting out of sync.

This is my understanding (not authoritative :)

Posted

The only old wifes tale I've heard that may work because it works on a lot of Audis and is in the Porche service stuff is Unlock door - turn on ignition - turn off and within 6 seconds press the remotes button. The rest is optimistic rubbish (in my opinion)

Fact is if your remotes dont work they probably need to go to Porsche - the amount of Boxsters I looked at where the seller said - ohhh the keys just need resyncing - its dead easy - yeah whatever - prepare to part with cash

  • Admin
Posted

Let's put a lot of this to rest.

Here is what Porsche says in TSB 4/97 9662 Vehicle Key with Remote Sender

"The following problems may occur when activating the remote sender on cars with option M535:

- No function of the remote sender

- control lights do not flash

- central locking system does not work

Possible causes for the above listed failures are:

1. Discharged battery.

The cause could be a discharged battery in the vehicle or in the remote sender. A discharged battery will not flash the LED in the key head when the remote is activated. If necessary replace the battery in the key head.

2. The remote sender is out of range of the receiver.

If unclear about the operating range of the remote sender, stand next to the vehicle and operate the sender. Note that a reduced range indicates a weak battery in the remote sender. If the remote sender has been activated more than 256 times and less than 1024 times with the receiver out of range or while the vehicle battery is disconnected the unit must be resynchronized as follows:

- Switch on the ignition (ignition key must have the correct transponder).

- Switch off the ignition.

- Remove the key and press the remote sender button within 6 seconds after the ignition key has been removed

The activation counter will then be reset to zero.

3. The “Energy Saving” mode is activated.

To reduce the current draw on the vehicle battery, the receiver is automatically switched off if the vehicle is not used for 5 days (120 hours) since the last time the ignition was switched on and off. At this

point the vehicle can only be opened mechanically with the key. The remote sender function is restored once the ignition is switched on again.

4. Atmospheric interference from other transmitters.

Intermittent interference is possible due to the many users of this frequency in the automotive industry.

5. Defective remote sender or receiver.

If the remote button is depressed and the LED on the remote does not illuminate, either the battery in the remote sender is discharged or the remote sender is defective. If the control light in the center of the dash does not blink after depressing the button on a functioning remote sender, either the vehicle battery is discharged or the alarm/immobilizer control unit is faulty. Before replacing the control unit, ensure that the 15 A fuse on the alarm/immobilizer control unit is functional. The fuse is replaceable and externally accessible. A damaged fuse is a indication of a short in a monitored alarm system component, for example, the alarm horn."

Of course all of our Contributing Members have access to all the Porsche TSBs.

Posted

Correct!

....

can anyone clarify - If i have unlocked the car with one key over 1024 times does that automatically mean the spare key will now be out of sync and therefore not work.

...

Based on this excerpt from the manual

The lock-in range has now been reset to zero (
as is the case with every recognized transmitter operation
)

I am guessing that there is an internal counter in the key which is reset upon each successful communication with the car. So, normally, both keys should have this counter to zero and there is no question of the spare ever getting out of sync.

This is my understanding (not authoritative :)

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!

Posted
I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!
Same here, my key is working fine, but my wife's key still isn't working, even going through the steps above. The LED blinks, but it doesn't unlock.
Posted (edited)
I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!

Wow!! That is exactly what I have experienced!! I will try to go back and try the various reset / voodoo methods. This seems common among Boxster / 996 owners. Must be the keys...... But how do we rectify this? I recently purchased my car and amazing enough it had the alarm module replaced and reprogramed....and still I am having similar issues to others.

rlt

Edited by rob76turbo
  • Admin
Posted
I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!

Wow!! That is exactly what I have experienced!! I will try to go back and try the various reset / voodoo methods. This seems common among Boxster / 996 owners. Must be the keys...... But how do we rectify this? I recently purchased my car and amazing enough it had the alarm module replaced and reprogramed....and still I am having similar issues to others.

rlt

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.
Posted

Starnge, as both keys seemed to stop working at the same time....

I tried several fixes: change polarity of battery, put the key in to the ignition switch / turned it on and off and tried the button. On one of the keys (which is actually in pretty bad condition {one of the micro switches is missing for instance and all the rubber on the buttons are broken)}, I can at least pop the front truck. This tells me the key is transmitting. But since the other rubber cover for the alarm function is completely gone, it is not surprising that it broke...

The other key is a mystery. I should have guessed that it was failing as I had to press the buttons several times for it to work. Changing the battery and the key not working was probably coincendital.

I will call around and see if someone has a used on in decent condition (on the cheap...) B)

Posted

Loren,

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.

Just to make sure...I just need to buy a new 3-button fob / transmitter and then I can use my key blade and transponder pill. Do I still have to take it to the dealer for programming? OR does the key work with the transponder pill from my original key?

Thanks in advance!!!!

  • Admin
Posted
Loren,

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.

Just to make sure...I just need to buy a new 3-button fob / transmitter and then I can use my key blade and transponder pill. Do I still have to take it to the dealer for programming? OR does the key work with the transponder pill from my original key?

Thanks in advance!!!!

If you transfer the transponder pill and key blade you should be fine.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
I've the same problem too with my 986 Boxster S Tiptronic RHD 2004! Tried most of the tips from this forum but still keys won't work! Central lock works if I depress the button on the dash. Remote LED blinks. Alarm goes off after a while from manually opened door( when key is not quickly inserted into the ignition). When door is unlocked manually, passenger side door is still locked. I need to close driver side door to unlock passenger door. Bought car from non-Porsche used car dealer 3 months ago No IPAS! Getting really frustrated now as this is my 1st ever Porsche & the remotes are not working! Any real success stories other than going to Porsche as they'll not entertain me as car was not bought from them!

Wow!! That is exactly what I have experienced!! I will try to go back and try the various reset / voodoo methods. This seems common among Boxster / 996 owners. Must be the keys...... But how do we rectify this? I recently purchased my car and amazing enough it had the alarm module replaced and reprogramed....and still I am having similar issues to others.

rlt

Sometimes the key button (little metal dome) on the circuit board just plain wears out. You can either buy a new key or an old key and just transfer your transponder pill to the new key (with the working circuit board). Be sure and get a new key with the same number of buttons.

i'm having the exact same problems (2002 S). so, once the key button wears down, that causes the alarm to go off when opening manually (and not inserting key into ignition right away)?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

hi all. i have a 2000 996 that i purchased in january. it came with one key. the transmitter on my key looks like it's in good condition, manually locks - unlocks the doors and starts the car. the remote on the head flashes when i push the lock/unlock button, but the doors on the car will not unlock or lock. i just ordered a new key blank and transmitter ($250.80 wholesale) and have an appointment on friday at my local porsche dealer to have it programmed and hopefully my old key made fully operational. I'll let you know what they say and how much it costs to fix the problem.

  • 2 years later...
Posted

Bump from the dead. Any fixes on this common problem? I have the same issues with my 00 S where the buttons do not work, but I can manually lock the doors.

  • Admin
Posted

Bump from the dead. Any fixes on this common problem? I have the same issues with my 00 S where the buttons do not work, but I can manually lock the doors.

I think they have already answered here. There is no "magic bullet".

1. Change the battery.

2. Try the reset procedure.

3. Try reprogramming the key to the immobilizer.

4. Replace the key and program it to the immobilizer.

Posted

Ok I know this sounds far fetched but I've heard of someone solving this same problem by inserting the key in the door lock and locking and unlocking the door three times. Supposedly resets the communication between the key and the control module. Haven't had to try it so I don't know if it works but it could be worth a shot.

  • 8 years later...
Posted
On 1/26/2009 at 6:28 PM, Loren said:

I think they have already answered here. There is no "magic bullet".

1. Change the battery.

2. Try the reset procedure.

3. Try reprogramming the key to the immobilizer.

4. Replace the key and program it to the immobilizer.

Hi Loren,

 

what is the rest procedure? I have two keys that is no longer working after key fob battery change. Do I need to reprogram them? If so, how?

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