986 Boxster Drain Tray

[lebow71]

Hi All,

I have been trying to locate the cause of water leaking into the passenger side of my 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic. I have read the other posts and found a cut/tear in the rear right side foam drain tray.

I purchased a replacement drain tray but wound up patching the original in place with similar foam and waterproof glue/rubber cement. (I did not want to fool too much with removing the top assembly) Patchwork was completed almost 2 weeks ago and checked the underside of the frain tray and it seems to have a very good seal where the tear was.

I had a substantial amount of water inside the car which I soaked up with towels, but did not have a chance to remove the seat and lift carpet and dry out completely. After continuing to soak up minor amounts of water on a daily basis between the seam of the floor carpet and the lower carpet section behind the seats it continues to get wet. (could this just be the dense foam underlay continuing to drain?)

I am going to remove the seat and carpeting tomorrow to dry thoroghly and would like any suggestions of any and all additional areas to look for possible water ingress.

The car is a daily driver and I live in the Paciofic NW and we are in the rainy season now so any and all suggestions are appreciated!!!

David

[1schoir]

Hi All,

I have been trying to locate the cause of water leaking into the passenger side of my 2001 Boxster 2.7 Tiptronic. I have read the other posts and found a cut/tear in the rear right side foam drain tray.

I purchased a replacement drain tray but wound up patching the original in place with similar foam and waterproof glue/rubber cement. (I did not want to fool too much with removing the top assembly) Patchwork was completed almost 2 weeks ago and checked the underside of the frain tray and it seems to have a very good seal where the tear was.

I had a substantial amount of water inside the car which I soaked up with towels, but did not have a chance to remove the seat and lift carpet and dry out completely. After continuing to soak up minor amounts of water on a daily basis between the seam of the floor carpet and the lower carpet section behind the seats it continues to get wet. (could this just be the dense foam underlay continuing to drain?)

I am going to remove the seat and carpeting tomorrow to dry thoroghly and would like any suggestions of any and all additional areas to look for possible water ingress.

The car is a daily driver and I live in the Paciofic NW and we are in the rainy season now so any and all suggestions are appreciated!!!

David

David:

The dense foam could still be causing residual water to drain out if it really got soaked. You could put some dry towels under there while you step on the carpeting, and repeat that procedure a few times.

The best way to quickly determine whether you have more work to do in stopping leaks (so that you don't waste your time and towels) is to do a leak test where you place a catch basin below and directly in front of the rear wheel on the side where you suspect the water is coming in. Then pour a carefully measured gallon of water in from above the clamshell and see if you get a full gallon at the bottom. If you get significantly less, you will know right away whether there is another leak source somewhere else.

Another common (and hard to find source of leaks) is directly beneath the footprint of the frame assembly, to the outboard side of and also immediately forward of the rearmost left to right base. Here is a photo of the driver's side showing the possible areas to double check:

The most common place is the place I am assuming you have already repaired with your patch. That is the area directly beneath the V-lever, and it's almost always caused by operating the top (sometimes unknowingly) after one of the plastic ball cups has broken apart and the pushrod just dangles and digs into the foam liner tray.

If you decide not use the new foam liner tray, I would be happy to buy it from you if the price is right.

Good Luck!

Regards, Maurice.

[Beelzy]

Only use a quart of water for the test, as you already suspect a decent leak.

No sense adding a whole gallon to the issue. ;)

[pk2]

I don’t think it’s unreasonable to still have water. That foam backing on the carpet can hold quarts of water. It’s a really good sponge

Your lucky it’s on you passenger side. Mine wasn’t, and soaked my “black box” down there under the driver side. Caught it in time to dry it out effectively twice. One time I did not, $$$.

I figured out the leaks and did much the same as you, however, since I have no idea when it will spring another leak consider this (or cringe):

First, I didn’t’ feel like taking the whole da__ carpet out, especial when wet, weighs a ton. I took out the seat & simply sliced the carpet under the seat from the back firewall to about a foot and a half forward and pealed it back.

Second, figuring this was not the first leak and unlikely the last, I drilled a couple holes through the floor, gooped some primer on the newly exposed metal. Let it dry with top down for a few days, put the black box back in (worked, yeah), folded the carpet, back, seat back in. Nothing I did shows in the slightest.

Though I have fixed the leak (I think) I never have to sweat it again. I don’t want leaks, but I know when the inevitable comes, I’m covered till I can sort it out. This is my 5th convertible. Give’m time and they leak...period.

Regards. PK

[porsche34]

Hello....,

I have had the exact same problem last summer.

Be sure you replaced the tray at the right place.The edge of the tray has to be placed inside the wings otherwise it will poor a lot of water....not easy to explain but just compare your installation with the one on the driver side.....you will probably find your problem.....by the way very easy to fix

Good luck

Robert

[lebow71]

Hello....,

I have had the exact same problem last summer.

Be sure you replaced the tray at the right place.The edge of the tray has to be placed inside the wings otherwise it will poor a lot of water....not easy to explain but just compare your installation with the one on the driver side.....you will probably find your problem.....by the way very easy to fix

Good luck

Robert

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The tear WAS from the push rod so I will look closer at the 'foot print' of the frame base as well as perform a drip test. There was a substantial amount of water so I am hoping it is just the process of the foam drying out. Will report back after the weekend!

[lebow71]

Hello....,

I have had the exact same problem last summer.

Be sure you replaced the tray at the right place.The edge of the tray has to be placed inside the wings otherwise it will poor a lot of water....not easy to explain but just compare your installation with the one on the driver side.....you will probably find your problem.....by the way very easy to fix

Good luck

Robert

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The tear WAS from the push rod so I will look closer at the 'foot print' of the frame base as well as perform a drip test. There was a substantial amount of water so I am hoping it is just the process of the foam drying out. Will report back after the weekend!

So after some difficulty locating the correct socket to remove the seat bolts I started the task of drying out the foam undrlay on the carpets. I was amazed at the amount of water the foam can absorb!!! I did not have a heater / fan powerful enough to dry the foam - it would have taken weeks at the rate it was going. I am now looking at removing the carpet completely and letting it hang to dry outside of the car.

[BillStL]

Hello....,

I have had the exact same problem last summer.

Be sure you replaced the tray at the right place.The edge of the tray has to be placed inside the wings otherwise it will poor a lot of water....not easy to explain but just compare your installation with the one on the driver side.....you will probably find your problem.....by the way very easy to fix

Good luck

Robert

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. The tear WAS from the push rod so I will look closer at the 'foot print' of the frame base as well as perform a drip test. There was a substantial amount of water so I am hoping it is just the process of the foam drying out. Will report back after the weekend!

So after some difficulty locating the correct socket to remove the seat bolts I started the task of drying out the foam undrlay on the carpets. I was amazed at the amount of water the foam can absorb!!! I did not have a heater / fan powerful enough to dry the foam - it would have taken weeks at the rate it was going. I am now looking at removing the carpet completely and letting it hang to dry outside of the car.

The rip in the tray on my car is at the front end of the tray. It is under the frame assembly. If I take the cover off on the inside of the car the rip is right above the seat belt rewinder. I tried putting a tape under it but I didn't really think that would work. So for anyone that was able to patch it how did you get to the rip with out taking the roof off. Anyone seen a link on how to take the roof off if I do decide to try to completely replace the tray.

Thanks Bill

[1schoir]

The rip in the tray on my car is at the front end of the tray. It is under the frame assembly. If I take the cover off on the inside of the car the rip is right above the seat belt rewinder. I tried putting a tape under it but I didn't really think that would work. So for anyone that was able to patch it how did you get to the rip with out taking the roof off. Anyone seen a link on how to take the roof off if I do decide to try to completely replace the tray.

Thanks Bill

Bill:

With respect to removing the entire top with frame assembly, I had posted this before here on Renntech, but could not find it, so here it is again.

Here is how to proceed:

1. Put the top in the service mode (if you are not sure how to do this, it's in the owner's manual), and make sure the clamshell is at it highest position (45 degree angle, as far back as possible). Unlatch the black/gray vinyl apron from its two plastic retainers on the rear firewall and pop off the two tension cables from their steel balls at the base of the cables.

Now, reaching under the B-pillar round black knuckle at its base, pull off the white plastic cups (maybe red plastic if yours have never been replaced) from the steel balls that they are pressed on to. If you have too much trouble popping those off, you can undo the 10mm bolt (with thick washer) from the middle of the connecting arm that leads to the white plastic cups on one end and the front of the V-lever on the rearmost end of it. Before you undo that bolt, mark the point where the two halves of the connect arm are joined so that you don't have to guess at the correct length later. I have attached a photo, where the white arrow shows the 10mm bolt with thick washer.

The yellow arrow shows where you should mark the position of the two halves of the connecting arm. The red circles show two of the three large bolts that must be removed (see step #3 below)

2. Now, from the inside of the passenger compartment (behind the outboard side of the driver's seat), remove the semi-circular carpet-covered plastic trim panel from around the base of the roll bar. This trim panel is attached with an 8mm bolt at the top (just loosen it, you don't have to remove it completely) and there is a Phillips screw near the bottom that is well hidden in the carpet covering. The 8mm bolt at the top is located near the forward drivers side corner of the carpet/foam engine compartment cover. The Phillips screw is about 6 or 8 inches from the floor and just forward of the firewall. Remove the panel.

This will remove the defroster hook up, and you will see the B-pillar microswitch about 2 inches down from the knuckle of the B-Pillar along the drivers side door jamb, which must be disconnected from its connector near the floor. There is also a zip-tie that will have to be cut, as the zip-tie holds the wire to the roll-bar.

3. Unbolt the 3 large bolts that are visible on the backside of the top frame, looking under the rear of the B-Pillar while the top is in the service mode. Some Boxsters have a plastic box covering these three bolts, and this plastic box comes off with removal of two Phillips screws. Some Boxsters that don't have the plastic box will nonetheless have one or two additional Phillips head screws that are located near the lower two of the three bolts, such as the one in the photo above with the blue arrow pointing to it.

Here is another photo which shows the upper of the three large bolts (circled in red) and an additional Phillips screw, again with a blue arrow.

The large bolts are self-centering, so it will not be difficult to re-install them in the correct position. The top, with the mechanism attached is still very light, but it is a little bulky, so you might want to have someone help you lift it off.

4. Once the 3 bolts on each side (left and right) have been removed, just slide the top back about one inch and then lift it straight up. If it won't come right off, look for more of those small Phillips head screws, similar to the ones shown in the photo (blue arrows).

That's all there is to it. It should take no more than 10 to 20 minutes or so for removal, about the same for installation.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited December 24, 2008 by 1schoir

[Kirk986]

When one of my pushrods punctured the sealing foam I used some Loctite 5910 RTV sealant to seal the tear. The existing foam was thoroughly cleaned and the I applied generous helping of RTV to the surface. Then I spread the material with a bondo squeegee, making sure to fill the tear and spread to the surrounding area. After 3 years everything is still dry. The 5910 was overkill (we use it in our shop to seal oil sumps, etc.) so any good RTV will probably do. Black will look best...

Kirk

'97 Boxster

[Ricey]

Hi

I have this same issue on my 2000 Boxster but I have a hard top on mine which doesnt come off all that often living in Ireland!!! Can someone tell me how to get to the drain plugs and tray? if I raise the soft top should I be able to see all this or do I have to dig deeper than that?

[1schoir]

Hi

I have this same issue on my 2000 Boxster but I have a hard top on mine which doesnt come off all that often living in Ireland!!! Can someone tell me how to get to the drain plugs and tray? if I raise the soft top should I be able to see all this or do I have to dig deeper than that?

Ricey:

Once you remove the hardtop, you have to put the canvas top in the "service position" to get a very clear look at the entire area around the drains. Look in your owner's manual for that simple procedure.

The drains themselves are easy to see on you have the top in the service position. Stand on the side of the car near one rear wheel, facing the car. Look directly down inside the convertible top well, just below and slightly forward of the V-levers and you will see the one drain on each side.

While you are at it, you may as well check your other drains, which are forward of the front firewall, to the left and right of the battery.

Loren has posted diagrams of the drains here before.

You can also find photos of the locations of the drains here: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/mikespor...boxsterwebpages

Regards, Maurice.

[Ricey]

Thanks Maurice this is a great help :)

[1schoir]

Thanks Maurice this is a great help :)

Ricey:

You are most welcome.

Remember, the importance of keeping the drains clear is not just to keep your carpet dry and free of must odors... It's to make 100% certain that your central alarm control unit under the seat does not get wet. That is a $$$$ repair that you should avoid at all costs! (pardon the pun). :P

Regards, Maurice.

[CapoGiro]

Ok, new to the forum, but have read just about everything I could find on this topic. I have had my 2006 S since the day after Thanksgiving and noticed early on that the passenger carpet was wet. Driver side completely dry. Thought it was isolated to the area immediately under the passenger seat (more to come). After reading all the great posts available on the subject, i cleaned the leaves out from the drain areas and tested the drains to ensure they flowed freely. Everything is good -drains flow and the pan does not leak.

At this point I thought that the issues was fixed by cleaning the drains. Reinstalled the carpet (after completely drying) and seat. Thought that I would wash the car before putting away for winter. As an aside, I was cautious about the amount of water I let run on the roof/clam shell since I was gun-shy. I did try to get the salt and dirt off of the undercarriage as well so I hosed the under side of the car pretty heavily.

Well, as you guessed, I checked the carpet to find it wet again. Removed the seat again and this time ventured further towards the foot well area. Yes, wet padding up there as well.

Does anybody have any additional ideas of where the water can be coming from? I saw a post somewhere stating that it could possibly be coming from the door if there was work done on it and a plastic sheet not sealed properly.

I know that I can sit in the car with someone hosing the outside but I am trying to avoid the clean up process for a third time.

[JFP in PA]

Make sure they are all clear, particularly #4: