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Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi everyone hope you can help me otherwise my car is going to stay a spa!

Porsche service recently replaced the LHS rear foam driptray and red knob arm under the soft top (as well as realigning the top after wards).

Since then the top has started leaking a large amount from both sides of the car when being washed and in the rain (with the water pooling in the foot wells).

Sitting in the car during recent rains I watched water pour/leak through the channel joins in the attached photo (sorry my camera is hopeless so I stitched a few photos together of others and have yellow arrows pointing to the joints).

post-37694-1227669642_thumb.jpg

Porsche realigned the top again but that did NOTHING to stop the leak.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Or can anyone help/advice what to do to fix it?

Please help!

Sam

Posted
Hi everyone hope you can help me otherwise my car is going to stay a spa!

Porsche service recently replaced the LHS rear foam driptray and red knob arm under the soft top (as well as realigning the top after wards).

Since then the top has started leaking a large amount from both sides of the car when being washed and in the rain (with the water pooling in the foot wells).

Sitting in the car during recent rains I watched water pour/leak through the channel joins in the attached photo (sorry my camera is hopeless so I stitched a few photos together of others and have yellow arrows pointing to the joints).

post-37694-1227669642_thumb.jpg

Porsche realigned the top again but that did NOTHING to stop the leak.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Or can anyone help/advice what to do to fix it?

Please help!

Sam

That’s a weird one, I thought I had them all. Chances are good you have one leak being channeled to 2 places (or 2 in channeled 4 places). Since it’s on both sides It would seem to be systemic problem…like the whole top is twisted.

Since you undoubtedly paid Porsche a pretty penny I’d throw it back in there court. To much of a coincidence.

Regards, PK

Posted

Sounds like they don't have the tension on the top cables set correctly. The one pic shows what looks to be a crooked

gap at the top joint.

They need to have the "Top Guy" work on it.

Posted

Ok, used your ammo pk2 and took it back the third time for the roof realignment, making it tight as hell (requires 2 hands to latch the top on now) BUT, still getting leaks from those spots :(

LOL ... funny thing is Beelzy, the top guy IS working on it! Lucky me there is a lot of rain her so I get to test it all the time <_<

I've also been inspired to get this car WATERTIGHT so I've taken out all the carpet and with a microscope making sure there is nothing else wet going on!

Does everyone have this much luck with water and Boxsters?

Cause I'm sure that even the Mercury Capri keeps dryer then a Boxster! :unsure:

Posted

Maybe they have it set too tight and it is warping the top as it is closing?

IMO, it should not take any extra effort to latch the top aside from the latching itself.

Posted
Ok, used your ammo pk2 and took it back the third time for the roof realignment, making it tight as hell (requires 2 hands to latch the top on now) BUT, still getting leaks from those spots :(

LOL ... funny thing is Beelzy, the top guy IS working on it! Lucky me there is a lot of rain her so I get to test it all the time <_<

I've also been inspired to get this car WATERTIGHT so I've taken out all the carpet and with a microscope making sure there is nothing else wet going on!

Does everyone have this much luck with water and Boxsters?

Cause I'm sure that even the Mercury Capri keeps dryer then a Boxster! :unsure:

Sam:

I agree with PK and with Beelzy that since it's happening on both sides, and only started after the dealer worked on it, that it's too much of a coincidence to be something other than related to the recent "alignment" of the top.

One possibility is that, since they replaced one of the front pushrods, the left pushrod is now longer (or shorter) than the right pushrod.

It is a tricky proposition to adjust the pushrods to the correct length because they don't react on the top frame assembly in a purely linear fashion.

If you are 100% sure that the issue is NOT the alignment of the top, you can try adjusting the vertical distance that the windows travel, so that the windows pass the "sheet of paper" test. You can actually adjust that travel without having to remove the door panels, by turning the torx screw on each of the forward and rear legs of each window regulator through the access holes at the bottom horizontal surface of the door.

I did a write up with photos on that particular adjustment, but can't locate it right now in my old posts. If you want to go that route, let me know and I'll look for it some more.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted

Yes please Maurice, if you can provide me with the details I'll give that a go as well. The more I knock out the better.

I'm keen on getting this resolved ASAP as I'd love the carpet back and so does my wife :lol:

Thanks,

Sam

Ok, used your ammo pk2 and took it back the third time for the roof realignment, making it tight as hell (requires 2 hands to latch the top on now) BUT, still getting leaks from those spots :(

LOL ... funny thing is Beelzy, the top guy IS working on it! Lucky me there is a lot of rain her so I get to test it all the time <_<

I've also been inspired to get this car WATERTIGHT so I've taken out all the carpet and with a microscope making sure there is nothing else wet going on!

Does everyone have this much luck with water and Boxsters?

Cause I'm sure that even the Mercury Capri keeps dryer then a Boxster! :unsure:

Sam:

I agree with PK and with Beelzy that since it's happening on both sides, and only started after the dealer worked on it, that it's too much of a coincidence to be something other than related to the recent "alignment" of the top.

One possibility is that, since they replaced one of the front pushrods, the left pushrod is now longer (or shorter) than the right pushrod.

It is a tricky proposition to adjust the pushrods to the correct length because they don't react on the top frame assembly in a purely linear fashion.

If you are 100% sure that the issue is NOT the alignment of the top, you can try adjusting the vertical distance that the windows travel, so that the windows pass the "sheet of paper" test. You can actually adjust that travel without having to remove the door panels, by turning the torx screw on each of the forward and rear legs of each window regulator through the access holes at the bottom horizontal surface of the door.

I did a write up with photos on that particular adjustment, but can't locate it right now in my old posts. If you want to go that route, let me know and I'll look for it some more.

Regards, Maurice.

Posted
Yes please Maurice, if you can provide me with the details I'll give that a go as well. The more I knock out the better.

I'm keen on getting this resolved ASAP as I'd love the carpet back and so does my wife :lol:

Thanks,

Sam

Sam:

I think I found the posts in this thread:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?s...ic=16939&hl

I wrote it up for a guy with 911, but it's based on my 986, so it should work for you.

Let me know if that's sufficient to help you figure it out and fix it.

Regards, Maurice.

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