clutch pedal stays low

[kirk911tt]

Just changed the clutch/ pp/ flywheel and throw out bearing ; its a spec stage 2 with a fidanza lwfw. The clutch engages and disengages but the pedal stays close to the floorboard then slowly comes up and slaps the bottom of my foot. The mechanic has bled the system 3 times and says the slave cylindr looked fine on reasembly (the accumulator was replaced). The pedal is soft and doesn't go hard anymore but it is unerving to have the pedal slowly failing to return to the normal position and eventually staying downunless you pick it upand the it springs up. There is no leaking fluid anywhere. I'm very frustrated. HELP.

[CJ_Boxster]

Sounds like an issue with the pressure plate that the fidanza clutch kit comes with.

[savowood]

I ended up having to replace both the slave cylinder under the dash and the helper on top of the transmission. There's also an issue when under extremely hard braking (like at the track) where the line for clutch hydraulics will get pinched, but I don't think that's the issue you're having.

-Michael

[catmanluge]

I ended up having to replace both the slave cylinder under the dash and the helper on top of the transmission. There's also an issue when under extremely hard braking (like at the track) where the line for clutch hydraulics will get pinched, but I don't think that's the issue you're having.

-Michael

I experianced the same issue - keep bleeding the slave cyclinder...

[SA321]

pressure plate is the only thing that pushes it back... maybe you can see from underneath if master cylinder is pushed

[kirk911tt]

Turns out the problem was air in the system that wouldn't bleed out with the 2 man method. Had to pressure bleed the system and pedal was back to oem feel again. Thats a big whew from me.. already spent 2500 on parts and labor (didn't want to waste any more). All the components are new and the kevlar stg 2 clutch grips a plenty.. still don't understand why it has to be broken in for 500 miles.

[wross996TT]

still don't understand why it has to be broken in for 500 miles.

I have been told "Clutch and brake materials, when new, are in a 'green' state,the material has small gaps like a sponge,also the bonding agents are note fully cured.As you break in the clutch,as pads,the bonding agents 'gas off' and the compound is compressed into the voids as it beds. The purpose of breaking in a clutch is to engage the disc in a controlled, consistent manner to ensure the disc, pressure plate and flywheel all make full surface contact. It's also a chance for the friction material to experience normal heat cycles." I personally think heat cycles is more important...so drive it in stop and go and then let it cool...repeat. Not sure if this is different with the kevlar FWIW.