996 GT2 drivebility

[boldis_63]

Hello everyone, I'm a new member in this forum but I have already read a lot of post regarding all kind of things.

Too bad, nothing that has something to do with my concern.

I own since august a 996 GT2 buyed here in Switzerland, used, with 63'000 km on it. The car is in very good optical shape but strange to drive.

Before this 996 I have driven during the last 10 years a 993 TurboS and i was very satisfied with, for sure I'm not an unexperienced Porsche driver.

Now my problem: My 996 is very bad to drive on light loads, like city driving around 50 km/h (30mph) , pushing the throttle very gently and release, just to hold the speed, the car shakes like it would go into fuelcut in and out. Very unconfortable.

The clutch is also really hard and shaky when you try to park the car.

Has anyone here similar experience or it's a fault of my car? My 993 was much better in this regards.

I have never driven other GT2's so I dont know how they feel on normal everyday driving.

Thank you

Boldis

[greenboxster]

Now my problem: My 996 is very bad to drive on light loads, like city driving around 50 km/h (30mph) , pushing the throttle very gently and release, just to hold the speed, the car shakes like it would go into fuelcut in and out. Very unconfortable.

The clutch is also really hard and shaky when you try to park the car.

Has anyone here similar experience or it's a fault of my car? My 993 was much better in this regards.

I have never driven other GT2's so I dont know how they feel on normal everyday driving.

Boldis -

I have a 2003 996 TT X50 that shares some components with the GT2. I, too, have noticed that it can be very difficult to drive smoothly with very light throttle application. I know most here would say "why are you using light throttle on a 450 hp 911" :P but I don't always want to go ripping about.

I changed out the Mass Airflow Sensor, but that did not change the stutter that I experience. My dealer said the car is operating normally and some of the stutter may be the Variocam coming "on". Don't know.

A couple months ago I had to have the clutch slave cylinder replaced and that has remedied my heavy clutch problem.

I don't have a lot of experience driving 911s, so I can't really tell if I am just being too picky or if the X50 package just makes the car a little too high-strung for easy, laid-back driving around town.

On the race track everything feels fantastic!!! :D

Steve D.

[GT2IAN]

Boldis,it shouldn't surge like that.It may be a faulty MAF.Try dropping to a lower gear and see what happens.When reversing into a parking spot mine shudders and clunks.Apparently it is the locking diff grabbing and letting go.It is normal for a GT2.

[boldis_63]

Hi and thank you for your replies

@greenboxter

You're surely right about " why slow driving around if you have 450HP" but I'm not living on the racetrack so I also like to drive the car everyday just ..."to drive it".

About the MAF, I already changed it but it didn't help. I felt no difference.

My old 993 Turbo S had 450HP too and practically the same engine (but a different ECM) but it never had this symptoms. It was absolutely smooth to drive (surely smoother than my actual GT2) even if the boost was slower to build up. Anyway i do not belive that the boost surging has anything to do with smoothness at 1500 rpm (and no boost at all).

@Gt2ian

As said, the MAF is brand new and this shaky feeling is there in all gears, in low gears more than in higher.

About the Diff, I think you're right, it can be very well related to the diff the "hardness" in the parking.

I also tried to buy the durametric diagnostic tool to see what was happening when the engine is running, in reality i did not found anything really "wrong".

Anyhow the feeling tells me that probably the engine sucks "wrong" air from somewhere, but how to find out?

Thank you guys for your help.

[GT2IAN]

Boldis,if it's not the MAF it is probably plugs,plug packs or fuel.Normally it will show a fault code and that should show on the durametric.Mine does a similar thing after I have washed it but it eventually comes good once the engine is hot.It doesn't show any codes but I am sure it is moisture getting into something.Does it improve after a long run?Are you using the correct octane fuel?

[porha]

Hello, we own GT2 2002 (US) and all I can say that <<this is GT2>> :) THe car is not made for city,and you must be hard on him,hard clutch,rubbering the tyers when turning on low speed(we did all the traction adjustment and weight adjustment on every tyre),always some strange noises from the rear achse usually when you are parking the car,can't drive on low RPM,the car must be hot to run normaly, but

all we can do is avoid city's and slow roads, so go fast.

Check around turbos-hoses for any bad air leaking.

sorry for my english

Edited November 22, 2008 by porha

[Danyol]

Has anyone tried cleaning the throttle body, I've read that coatings in the body from fuel residue may cause erratic behavior at small throttle openings on the regular 996?

I have a similar problem that's developed over the last 2 -3k ('03 X50).

[boldis_63]

Has anyone tried cleaning the throttle body, I've read that coatings in the body from fuel residue may cause erratic behavior at small throttle openings on the regular 996?

I have a similar problem that's developed over the last 2 -3k ('03 X50).

Thank you all for the suggestions. It's clear to me that a GT2 is "harder" to drive in town than a "normal" car, still the engine is basically the same as in every 996 Turbo (apart from turbochargers and intercooler), so I can't belive that it "has" to be so rough as mine.

I'm using V Power fuel here (100 RON) and the last service is 4000 km back. I noticed too that everything needs to be on temperature (expecially the gearbox) to make it a little better (when it's cold than gearshifting is really hard).

The suggestion about cleaning the throttle body is very good, I'm going to take a look at it.

Thanks again.

Boldis

[Danyol]

Boldis,

Working around electronics something else occurred to me. The throttle is "drive by wire", this means there is a pedal and throttle position sensor. Not sure if these are potentiometers but if either is, the largest wear will occur at the smallest throttle positions. If they're optical sensors then no big deal (unless we're missing a bit :huh: ).

Maybe I'm making it too complicated, I'll clean my throttle body first :)

Mehmet

Edited November 27, 2008 by Danyol