Ignition switch

[dbookman]

Lately I've been having some trouble removing my key from the ignition switch. This morning, when I tried to remove the key, I noticed that the only way I could do it was by turning the switch to the extreme left (to the stop). But once I removed the key, I was unable to lock the doors with the remote. When when I locked the door manually, I received a single beep from the horn and the lower portion of my gauge cluster (the digital section) remained illuminated. I'm guessing that I need to replace the ignition switch. Can someone confirm this for me and can you also offer some recommendations/instructions, both on the replacement and also on the parts I need to order to allow my existing key set to work? Otherwise, would it be better or cheaper for me to just order a new switch and key set?

Thanks,

Dave

[Azzie]

I'm having this exact same issue and am looking for a solution better than taking it to the cleaners (aka my dealer who quoted me $900). I am also interested, if anyone knows, in changing it to a push button start or some sort of upgrade. If I'm going to spend that much might as well upgrade it. F.Y.I. when you lock your door and get the single horn beep; a. you have about 2 days before the battery will die and b. the passenger door does not lock even though the drivers side does (you can ask my girlfriend about both of these!).

Thanks Gents!

[violaGT3]

I'm having this exact same issue and am looking for a solution better than taking it to the cleaners (aka my dealer who quoted me $900). I am also interested, if anyone knows, in changing it to a push button start or some sort of upgrade. If I'm going to spend that much might as well upgrade it. F.Y.I. when you lock your door and get the single horn beep; a. you have about 2 days before the battery will die and b. the passenger door does not lock even though the drivers side does (you can ask my girlfriend about both of these!).

Thanks Gents!

Hmmm, Sounds alot like the issue with my Passat, very common. I would use a little WD 40 in the ignotion cylinder, play with the key in there, then remove the key and give it a squirt or two rinse out. Leave it alone over night. It seems asd though the horn is letting you know that something inside the car is not right, much like the center console.

HTH

Also if the passenger door is not locking then use graphite powder in the door locks, from time to time I have to ust my key to open the door as my girlfriend keeps washing them and I noticed that sometimes the mechanical lock will open but the alarm sensor/central locking doesn't trigger. Turn the key a little farther in the door.

Edited November 16, 2008 by ViolaGT3

[1schoir]

Lately I've been having some trouble removing my key from the ignition switch. This morning, when I tried to remove the key, I noticed that the only way I could do it was by turning the switch to the extreme left (to the stop). But once I removed the key, I was unable to lock the doors with the remote. When when I locked the door manually, I received a single beep from the horn and the lower portion of my gauge cluster (the digital section) remained illuminated. I'm guessing that I need to replace the ignition switch. Can someone confirm this for me and can you also offer some recommendations/instructions, both on the replacement and also on the parts I need to order to allow my existing key set to work? Otherwise, would it be better or cheaper for me to just order a new switch and key set?

Thanks,

Dave

Dave:

The symptoms you describe are consistent with a faulty ignition switch.

I'm sure if you do a search on here, you will find detailed instructions.

Otherwise, you could also check this link for another set of instructions: http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/ignitionswitchreplacement

This is one of those DIY's that will have you scratching your head, asking how the dealer can charge such an astronomical price for a relatively simple repair. IMO, they routinely replace the entire mechanism, in addition to the electrical portrion which you will be replacing, and it's almost always not needed.

Regards, Maurice.

Edited November 16, 2008 by 1schoir

[Foster]

Maurice is right. DO NOT LET THE DEALER NEAR IT!

99% chance it's just the ignition switch. You can order it online for less than $20 bucks, and install it in under an hour.

If you take it to the dealership they will probably tell you they need to replace the lock and cut new keys. They may even refuse to replace just the switch.

The switch breaks easily so they updated the part, but the catch is that the updated switch will only fit an updated ($100+) lock. :rolleyes:

BTW If it's the switch, lube won't help, it'll just make a mess. And if the switch doesn't properly turn off when you take the key out you will end up with a dead batt.

Edited November 16, 2008 by Foster

[dbookman]

Maurice & Foster,

Many thanks! I will certainly give this a try.

Dave

[function12]

I would NOT use WD-40 in any lock. It will dry it out in the long run and it will also cause it to gum up. I would use a very lite lube LPS1.

[violaGT3]

Maurice is right. DO NOT LET THE DEALER NEAR IT!

99% chance it's just the ignition switch. You can order it online for less than $20 bucks, and install it in under an hour.

If you take it to the dealership they will probably tell you they need to replace the lock and cut new keys. They may even refuse to replace just the switch.

The switch breaks easily so they updated the part, but the catch is that the updated switch will only fit an updated ($100+) lock. :rolleyes:

BTW If it's the switch, lube won't help, it'll just make a mess. And if the switch doesn't properly turn off when you take the key out you will end up with a dead batt.

Hmm, I am assuming that by "if it's the switch, lube won't help" means that if the plastic switch is broken lube won't help. Hmm, good call but my suggestion was to attempt to alleviate any issues with the the switch if it is merely hanging up on debris. Like the one in my Passat does. I think this is a perfect example of "good info used poorly" It is not necessary to use the entire container of WD40(my apologies for not making that clear). Some people have a good general idea that a squirt or two in a cylinder with .002 cubic inches of volume might suffice and if in fact it was just hanging up then it would allow him to use his car regularly for the time being, like getting to work tommorow, or to the green!

Oh um to the response of not using WD40 to clean out the cylinder it'll gum up. Yea, that is right. It is not a cleaner, it is a silicone based lubricant, and it will gum up. Ah, oh well. I just wanted to help a guy out not have everything I say challenged. To lube a cylinder graphite powder should be used to clean it out. . . . I don't know, Pine Sol?

I'll pay $100 to someone who takes a lock cylinder and sprays as much WD40 as they like into it and gets it to gum up from it. Heck you can soak it in WD40 if you like?

[Azzie]

A $15 part sounds like a steal of a deal but can anyone tell me the difference between all these parts? What is the $15 ignition switch, the $150 ignition assembly, which ones do I need to replace my keys (what is a key cylinder?), how do I change these without changing my keys? I've read the DYI on here "DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster" but it doesn't seem to cover if you need new keys? I'm no master mechanic but can follow directions pretty well, maybe I'm missing something (what are the exact part numbers I need for the job). Any help would be great, otherwise I'm going to have to go to the dealer and drop $900.

Thanks again gentlemen.

[function12]

All I am saying is that in my 20 plus years of rekeying locks and picking locks. WD-40 is the worst stuff you could ever put into a lock other than dirt or superglue. Over time it dries out the lock and attracts dirt. It the short term it works great but over the long term the lock WILL start to fail/stick because of the use of WD-40.

Just my 2 cents.

[minny]

My car had the same problem and i changed the ignition switch as suggested by everyone. The instructions and Audi part number are on the forum. Its not the whole lock barrel/assembly, just the Audi plastic switch at the end. No special tools needed, just some patience and under an hour of your time. You don't need new keys as you are not changing the lock barrel. £27 for the switch from Audi in the UK. Porsche charge to change the whole assembly which is so much more expensive and takes forever hence the cost.

Edited November 17, 2008 by minny

[violaGT3]

A $15 part sounds like a steal of a deal but can anyone tell me the difference between all these parts? What is the $15 ignition switch, the $150 ignition assembly, which ones do I need to replace my keys (what is a key cylinder?), how do I change these without changing my keys? I've read the DYI on here "DIY Upgraded Ignition Switch/Lock Installation for 996/Boxster" but it doesn't seem to cover if you need new keys? I'm no master mechanic but can follow directions pretty well, maybe I'm missing something (what are the exact part numbers I need for the job). Any help would be great, otherwise I'm going to have to go to the dealer and drop $900.

Thanks again gentlemen.

No seriously do not take it to a dealer. That's like going to a dentist to have him brush your teeth. Below are addresses for ebay pages that have the switches for sale. 99% you do not need to replace the assembly, but it is an update to correct the known problem that you might want to do. Your call. If you were to do the updated replacement then you would have to replace the bracket assembly locking cylinder, and lastly the keys. But if you just want to repair the switch until the next failure then just get the appropriate part and replace it. This is the exact same part that fails on my Passat, The exact same part number, more than likely it is the same assembly too. If you are obsessive then spend the money if not just replace the switch and it'll last somewhere between 1 month and 10 years? Who knows. GL

99-01 OEM-4A0 905 849A- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Porsche...sQ5fAccessories

04-05 OEM-4B0 905 849- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-PORSCHE...sQ5fAccessories

PS you can use the part number locator on this site to get part numbers for just about anything.

Edited November 17, 2008 by ViolaGT3

[violaGT3]

All I am saying is that in my 20 plus years of rekeying locks and picking locks. WD-40 is the worst stuff you could ever put into a lock other than dirt or superglue. Over time it dries out the lock and attracts dirt. It the short term it works great but over the long term the lock WILL start to fail/stick because of the use of WD-40.

Just my 2 cents.

Well I learned to use it back in the 80's. and I have used it eversince and not had one issue using it to clean out the brass powder and lube grease that will build up over time and allow free movement again. You simply spray it in break down the greasy build up and let the excess drip away, and then use graphite powder to lube the cylinder. Oddly enough my 76 X1/9 had it done to it somewhere in the early 90's and they do not have a problem. Are they/you using graphite powder to lube the lock afterwards? Oddly enough I used the same method on my 01 Passat and it has not failed me yet. . . here's hoping.

P.S. don't look at the pic too close it needed a bath :rolleyes:

Edited November 17, 2008 by ViolaGT3