Front damage and radiator leak, help

[Pcar993]

I ran over Rocky Raccoon last night...cousins are coming over for BBQ today...JK

The new bumper and right air scoop replacement is no big deal. But the condenser is bent at the bottom and the radiator is leaking. The mounting frame for the radiator is bent back and will need to be replaced.

1. It seems that the condenser comes off easy enough…two screws, but my system is still charged; what do you recommend here? Just take it apart carefully and then get the system recharged later. I saw a post that talked about "rivet pins", any clue what those are? If the condenser were not leaking would you not replace this part?

2. From the third radiator DIY the radiator replacement seems straightforward. After disconnecting the hoses just remove the radiator frame with the radiator and fan still mounted to it in my case, do you agree? Any words of wisdom, am I heading down the right path?

3. I have already lost some radiator fluid. After replacing the radiator it seems that the bleeder value approach should work to get the air out?

Many thanks.

[violaGT3]

Ouch! Either that was the Terminator with a raccoon guise or you hit him while you were haulin @$$.

Most of the answers seem straight forward. The only recommendation I have is not to expose the A/C system until you are absolutely ready to complete all work and recharge it to avoid contaminating the system lines.

Also a good temp fix for the radiator some jb weld putty.

I know this doesn't help much But without first hand seeing the damage I would have to say just order the parts and go from there. Bend back what you can, but you have damaged unforgiving parts.

Hate to see it, BOL!

[whs]

Just curious, but are you planning on doing the repairs yourself? It would seem that just the cost of parts/paint would exceed your insurance deductible.

[Pcar993]

Good advice on the a/c coil, I will see if I have a problem on that and if I do likely go to a pro. I am doing the repairs myself; the parts are around $500 not including the bumper. Wanted to upgrade to a different bumper anyway so I am going to take my time on that; going to look at a good epoxy to glue it back together in the short term. As far as insurance I leave those mates alone as much as possible. This is my daily driver so I have learned to not get to upset about blemishes.

[violaGT3]

Good advice on the a/c coil, I will see if I have a problem on that and if I do likely go to a pro. I am doing the repairs myself; the parts are around $500 not including the bumper. Wanted to upgrade to a different bumper anyway so I am going to take my time on that; going to look at a good epoxy to glue it back together in the short term. As far as insurance I leave those mates alone as much as possible. This is my daily driver so I have learned to not get to upset about blemishes.

I would recommend using a metal grade 40-80 grit to scar the back side of the fascia, then drive a couple screws on opposing sides of the break line, then use safety wire to tension the opposite sides together and put fiber resin on each side of the break but not in the crack, then place a folded piece of fiberglass cloth over the break, and smooth it down flat. After you let that cure, you can move on to the next break if any. The reason for not putting the resin in or on the crack is that it'll bulge out of the crack and look awful on the painted side. I would apply a second piece of glass cloth to each break, and then work on dressing up the painted side. I have seen people use elmers to fill the crack on the painted side and believe it or not once you use touch up paint it is good. This is of course a track repair and will work until you decide on your new fascia or if you do it well enough could serve you for a long time. I of course do not endorse the use of elmers I merely wanted to get across that it's a fairly easy repair. Of course if you do not mind ponying up the dough you could scar the break all the way and resing the crack too (neatly) then wet sand 400, 800, 1500, 2000, and have a shop shoot it. As for the screw holes, ream the burrs and put a painters tape firmly and neatly over them and then use a drop or two of resin or what ever from the back side and the threading of the hole will allow it to permanently seal it back up. Gently wet sand as before mentioned and have shot or just touch up. Oh yeah if you should run into tiny pin holes/spots in the resin use glazing putty, simply smotth it over the area and allow to cure fully then wet sand.

It's a fun deal supposing you don't get resin all over everything. . . . sadly I have done that before.

Just FYI incase you don't know Trying to epoxy is a waste of time. They are great with surface area but in this case the wind drag would be enough to snap it. HTH

Edited November 4, 2008 by ViolaGT3

[Pcar993]

Good advice on the a/c coil, I will see if I have a problem on that and if I do likely go to a pro. I am doing the repairs myself; the parts are around $500 not including the bumper. Wanted to upgrade to a different bumper anyway so I am going to take my time on that; going to look at a good epoxy to glue it back together in the short term. As far as insurance I leave those mates alone as much as possible. This is my daily driver so I have learned to not get to upset about blemishes.

I would recommend using a metal grade 40-80 grit to scar the back side of the fascia, then drive a couple screws on opposing sides of the break line, then use safety wire to tension the opposite sides together and put fiber resin on each side of the break but not in the crack, then place a folded piece of fiberglass cloth over the break, and smooth it down flat. After you let that cure, you can move on to the next break if any. The reason for not putting the resin in or on the crack is that it'll bulge out of the crack and look awful on the painted side. I would apply a second piece of glass cloth to each break, and then work on dressing up the painted side. I have seen people use elmers to fill the crack on the painted side and believe it or not once you use touch up paint it is good. This is of course a track repair and will work until you decide on your new fascia or if you do it well enough could serve you for a long time. I of course do not endorse the use of elmers I merely wanted to get across that it's a fairly easy repair. Of course if you do not mind ponying up the dough you could scar the break all the way and resing the crack too (neatly) then wet sand 400, 800, 1500, 2000, and have a shop shoot it. As for the screw holes, ream the burrs and put a painters tape firmly and neatly over them and then use a drop or two of resin or what ever from the back side and the threading of the hole will allow it to permanently seal it back up. Gently wet sand as before mentioned and have shot or just touch up. Oh yeah if you should run into tiny pin holes/spots in the resin use glazing putty, simply smotth it over the area and allow to cure fully then wet sand.

It's a fun deal supposing you don't get resin all over everything. . . . sadly I have done that before.

Just FYI incase you don't know Trying to epoxy is a waste of time. They are great with surface area but in this case the wind drag would be enough to snap it. HTH

I bought a fiberglass repair kit and patched things up on the backside of bumper, everything seems to be fine. I'm all put back together and ready to drive. Thanks for the advice.

[violaGT3]

Bravo, good to hear! Just watch out for Rocky's relatives..... ;)