2005-2008 Boxster 987 Porsche Rear Speaker Kit

[trieullionaire]

If your Porsche Boxster (2005-2008) doesn't have the Bose rear speakers, here's a great way to upgrade your system & get surround sound in your vehicle. The PNA 986 kit fits perfectly into the newer 987s and integrates seamlessly into the MOST bus perfectly.

Trieullionaire

http://stores.ebay.com/Euromotorspeed

[vabeach]

Has anyone tried installing one of these units? How complicated? Dealer reprogramming required?

[stef]

It's $145 which isn't too bad I suppose. I do miss not having rear speakers esp with the top down, although it seems it'd be lacking without also adding a good amp.

There's almost certainly no dealer programming required, and I'm pretty sure there's no fiber needed, either (but they advertise that it works with MOST). I could be wrong, but stereos are pretty straightforward. The real question is if it screws up the speaker impedance from the head unit.

[kbrandsma]

You also need the 986 rear hard compartment. I have a used black one in like new condition with a brand new OEM PNA-986 KIT rear speaker kit installed. PM me if interested in more info or photos.

Edited November 1, 2008 by kbrandsma

[trieullionaire]

Has anyone tried installing one of these units? How complicated? Dealer reprogramming required?

Installation take around 2 to 2.5 hours, depending on how mechanically incline you are. The 2nd option is to have a stereo shop install it for you for roughly $70. No dealer reprogramming is required. We've had several people install it already into their 987. It's a great option if you don't want to spend $1500 on a Porsche Bose rear speakers.

Trieullionaire

Euro MotorSpeed

[cseoni]

I just got one from Euro MotorSpeed...I will install in the next week and post pictures...having some issues with their instructions as they dont cover a Nav system (removal) (their instructions are very detailed and good though). I am also trying to verify if I have the amp on my 2005. There is some control module that looks like an amp in the front trunk, however, I am not sure that it is the amp based on looks, etc.

Edited November 15, 2008 by cseoni

[rsprin]

Does adding these speakers hamper the use of the center storage box? (not that you can fit much in it anyway...)

[cseoni]

Does adding these speakers hamper the use of the center storage box? (not that you can fit much in it anyway...)

I dont believe so. They replace the outside storage bins. I believe (will know soon) that the center storage area remains intact...

[secuuda]

Hi I have install the speaker system from Euro Motorspeed, "Great people to do business with " on my 2007 Boxster and it does not hamper the storage box and it does not go through or connect to the MOST on the amp. you have to use a small amp for powering the rear speakers I used an MTX amp that switches on automatically when I turn on the stereo this amp is the only amp that does that. it uses low power.

The wireing from the amp connects to the wireing going to the speakers in the doors and thats it that all you do. It take a couple of hrs to install the speakers in the storage box the amp and run the wireing. when I was done, I took it to one of the stereo installation guy and it cost me $60. dollars for them to do the final connections to the wireing, well worth the money. All in all in final cost when finished about $315. total. great sound and well worth it.

secuuda

[trieullionaire]

We do a lot of business with a local Porsche dealership so they were very willing to assist with the OEM amplifier & rear speaker integration. As of yesterday, we've revised the the installation manual to reflect the changes to speed the installation process. Please private message us on Renntech, email or call us should you have any questions or concerns. Many thanks to everyone who have contributed to making this possible!

Trieullionaire

cvt929@yahoo.com

727-643-2207

[robcorn]

Hi I have install the speaker system from Euro Motorspeed, "Great people to do business with " on my 2007 Boxster and it does not hamper the storage box and it does not go through or connect to the MOST on the amp. you have to use a small amp for powering the rear speakers I used an MTX amp that switches on automatically when I turn on the stereo this amp is the only amp that does that. it uses low power.

The wireing from the amp connects to the wireing going to the speakers in the doors and thats it that all you do. It take a couple of hrs to install the speakers in the storage box the amp and run the wireing. when I was done, I took it to one of the stereo installation guy and it cost me $60. dollars for them to do the final connections to the wireing, well worth the money. All in all in final cost when finished about $315. total. great sound and well worth it.

secuuda

Is is true that you need to add another amplifier or can you just hook the speakers into the current amplifier? I have a standard sound system on my Boxster, wanting to know before I purchase this item.

Thanks!

[bustanut]

i didnt use an amp to power mine. i just ran the speaker cables under the center console and ran them from the rear outs on the head unit. you get the right pins in the kit to do this from the Porsche wiring loom.

Edited November 19, 2008 by bustanut

[cseoni]

i didnt use an amp to power mine. i just ran the speaker cables under the center console and ran them from the rear outs on the head unit. you get the right pins in the kit to do this from the Porsche wiring loom.

What year boxster and what type of head unit? I have the speakers as well with Nav and plan to wire them directly to the amp...

[jjlehman]

Here is what I know about installing the rear speakers on a 2005+ Boxster. If you'd like a PDF of this please e-mail me at jjlehman [at] earthlink [dot] net. I don't have any pictures but when used with other instructions the below might be helpful.

INSTALLING REAR SPEAKERS ON A 2005 BOXSTER WITH THE CDR24 RADIO AND NO EXTERNAL AMPLIFIER.

I just spent a frustrating 8 hours doing what I was told was a 2.5 hour install job of rear speakers on my 2005 Boxster. This Boxster has the CDR24 radio. All 2005-2009 Boxsters that don’t have navigation have this radio. There are two additional sound system enhancements (meaning additional speakers and amplifiers), one of them being BOSE.

I read the instructions carefully and read some of the forums before starting. I thought I knew what I was getting into.

As I said, my Boxster has the base radio with no additional amplifiers. You will have to remove the radio to wire up the speakers, but I’ll get to that later.

Here are some pointers that I learned while doing the install:

You will need more tools than the installation brochure says.

You will also need:

Torx 30 screwdriver

Wrench to disconnect the battery

Dremel tool with a round “drum” sander (3/8”-1/2” approximately),

Dremel cutting disks

A ¼” round Dremel grinder bit

A penny to use as a screwdriver for fasteners on the foam piece under the glove box

Pliers

Adjustable wrench

Two non-marring hand clamps.

“L” shaped Allen wrench that it the same size as a Torx 30 screwdriver

I recommend a glue gun over epoxy because you could well make a mistake placing the speaker wires inside the storage compartment and need to re-do them.

Getting the storage tray out isn’t too bad but your glass window will impede you a bit. The illustration shows it standing upright. I couldn’t get it there. I disconnected the UPPER ball end of the tension cable because it’s easier to get to. I highly recommend laying a big beach towel across the back trunk lid.

Once you get the storage compartment out the fun begins. I’d suggest that you put it on a blanket on your workbench while working on the storage unit. This will protect it. You’ll also need to be very careful when removing the existing cubby holes from the storage unit. Note that the glue that was used in the original install of the cubbies has leaked down the side and it is very difficult to tell that there are some side clips to hold the cubby holes in. You might damage them while you are trying to hack away the glue. You have to be very careful finessing the glue to break free of the plastic.

Fitting the speaker grills takes some time. I had to knock off and smooth out the outboard tabs (closest to the car doors) of the grills. I also had to take a Dremel tool with a sanding drum and slightly increase the size of the opening at the outboard end of the storage compartment where the speaker grills fit. It wasn’t that much of an increase in the opening. You just need to take it slow and keep refitting the piece. It will never just pop right in but when it pushes somewhat easily into the speaker grill opening you’ll know you are done.

Once I got the grills so they would fit I used a hand clamp to hold them tight at the outboard corners while I used the glue gun to glue them in. The grills have a tendency to want to pop away from the housing at the outside corner. The glue gun worked great.

When you put the speakers into the appropriate place in the storage compartment there is really no way to put them in incorrectly. There is a way to wire them incorrectly however, something that even Eurospeed did in their instructions. Start with the left speaker and make sure you leave almost no slack in the line when you stick the left side speaker wire in the wire retaining clips. You will need as much wire as possible when it comes to positioning the right speaker.

As you run the speaker wires from the left side of the unit to the right side you will want to take the Dremel tool and, with a ¼” round grinder bit rout out two small spots so the wire can run freely from the left speaker compartment through the storage area with the slider doors and into the right speaker compartment. Once you press the speaker wire into the retaining clips on the left side of the storage compartment it will become obvious where each rout will need to be made. (It’s right where the inboard clip is located. It will look like the wire has to go over a plastic ridge.) You’ll do one rout on each side. This is so the storage compartment doesn’t cut into the wires when it is re-installed. Dabbing some hot glue in there is a good idea. Clamp the wire across the back of the storage unit and put glue in at least 3-5 places to secure it. This is where the glue gun is better than epoxy. You can remove the glue of necessary.

On the right side of the storage bin you will see a ¼” notch right near the location of the outboard Torx screw that holds the speaker unit in and the edge of the carpet. (This is from figure 3 in the three page Porsche installation instructions.) This is where the wires should exit the unit. There should be just enough speaker wire to get to the edge of the notch. All you will see once the storage unit is reinstalled is the tube that covers the wires and the connector plug. Before you put the right speaker assembly in place the two speaker wires under the right speaker assembly so they exit at the notch. They should not bind on anything. Then use the four Torx screws to secure the assembly.

Now is a good time to disconnect the battery. If you don’t you can create a potential airbag deployment.

After you remove the carpeted seatbelt retractor cover you’ll see on the roll bar that there are a series of small rectangles punched into a small cross member between the two tubes. I installed the white connector clip there in the small middle rectangle. You will need to install it so the channel runs vertically. You will need a pair of pliers to give it a twist to lock it in. I positioned the connector for the long cable that goes to the front of the car facing downward on the clip. The storage box connector comes in from the bottom. That way it can be fairly easily unclipped for removal.

When you route the long speaker cable down the side of the roll bar the white zip ties that were included in the kit won’t help you. They are too short. I didn’t use them as the speaker cable was pretty easy to tuck behind the roll bar and then route along the door sill.

Once you remove the door sill/umbrella holder there is a nice ridge right along the edge of the sill to route the speaker cable. Clips won’t be necessary. When you get to the kick panel you’ll need to get creative. (Make sure you have put tape on the end of the harness that has the exposed micro clips!) The panel is glued in place so you’ll have to push the wire around a bit.

Removing the foam under dash protector is easier if you use a penny as a screw driver. You’ll continue routing the wire behind the carpet.

This is where you say: Where the !@#$@ is the amplifier the directions were talking about? If there is one it is located in the front luggage compartment, behind the tire inflation kit. If it’s not there then you have the base radio set up and the radio has to come out.

Here is how you get the radio out:

Remove small carpeted trim piece from each side of center console using Torx 30 screwdriver. It takes a lot of turns to get it out. Must be to discourage thieves and people installing rear speakers.

Remove the piece of panel that covers the head unit on each the side of the console.

There are two Torx 20 screws per panel. This is the hard part: gently (but forcefully) pull each side panel forward. There are three clips that hold them in. The bottom two are fairly straightforward. The top one is a total pain. If you twist it upwards and don’t pull it forward you will probably break the top clip. It’s hard to get leverage on this piece because it is wedged between the radio and the dash.

On the right side of the radio there is a small screw that needs to be backed off so the radio can slide out. (Another security feature.) Don’t unscrew it all the way (but there is no way to tell if you are!).

There are 4 black plastic rotating locks that hold the radio in place. You will need an Allen wrench the size of a Torx 30 to unlock them. The upper one on the left side of the radio is a pain because it’s hard to see. You have to do it by feel.

The radio should then slide out. The connector cables are short so make sure you have a towel to protect the radio and the dashboard. I’d move the shifter down to give the radio some extra room.

On the back of the radio you will be looking for the brown connector. The directions refer to the rear speaker cable wires as red and green. They aren’t. On my kit they were white and black, and yellow and black. Use an AA battery to determine which side is right and which is left. Just connect up the leads and listen for the slight popping sound. I determined that Yellow was R and White was L. Double check that. Had to do the same thing with the main speakers since nothing is labeled!

You will need to push the pins from the speaker wiring harness into the brown connector. What no one tells you is that there is a thin yellow restraining strip that keeps you from pushing the pins in. You will need to pry that out first from the side of the brown connector. Make sure you put the new pins in with the same orientation as the existing pins so you can slide the yellow strip back in. It’s redundant because the pins lock in anyway.

Once everything was connected I re-installed the radio and reconnected the battery.

The fader feature doesn’t work, but the surround sound is great. Euro Motorspeed apologized for the misleading advertising and offered a refund…which is not possible once you have installed the speakers!

Needless to say, the speakers are worth the effort, but there are multiple theories on where the amps are, or aren’t, whether you need to remove the radio - or not, and even with the Porsche, Euro Motorspeed, PNP, and some forum instructions the project was still a cluster-f--k because the 2005+ Boxsters are just different enough from their predecessors and the documentation is pretty thin.

Jeff

[msediqi]

Hey thanks for those instructions that really clarified alot of things!! Now i have an amp in the front trunk, how do i wire them ? i am stuck at this last part please help

[trieullionaire]

Did you get the wires passed the firewall?

[msediqi]

man im gonna feel so stupid asking this, what is the firewall ? :x

[cseoni]

man im gonna feel so stupid asking this, what is the firewall ? :x

Firewall is the physical area of the vehicle that seperates the engine compartment and the cabin (person compartment) in a traditional vehicle. In a boxster, the firewall is the physical seperation between the front trunk and the cabin...

Basically he is asking if you were able to get the wiring from the front trunk into the passenger cabin (under dash, etc)...

[stef]

man im gonna feel so stupid asking this, what is the firewall ? :x

It helps prevent your car from being hax0red. :D

[bonerp]

I have just fitted my rear speakers as per the above instructions. Due to the hollow nature of the rear storage box I would suggest you use some cushion filling to dead the sound as some bass can sound very boomy!

Paul

[quinby1]

I just completed the installation of these speakers in my 2005 987 Boxster. I got them from Euromotorspeed through E-bay. They were quick to ship and came with all that was needed for installation, including detailed instructions. I read many posts, including JJLehman, and it was a big help. In fact it seems that Euromotorspeed has incorporated many of JJlejman's comments into their instructions. Since I have the enhanced audio with the amp in the front trunk, I can add some comments which might help future installers of this product with this configuration.

first, you need every tool mentioned in the instructions and by JJlehman and then some. The biggest pain (or should I say the first pain) is removing the storage boxes. You are supposed to cut the glue off the bottom of the box, but if it is cold, it is like iron. It helps to warm the glue with a hair dryer, then cut it with a very strong utility knife. But be warned, the front wall of the compartment it very thin and fragile. I didn't manage to break it, but it was close. Go slow, it took me 3 hours to dig, cut, scrape and gouge the glue out, especially from the drippings down the sides. I eventually had to cut one of the boxes to pieces using a dremmel drill and took it out in two pieces. Once the boxes are out the instructions for installing the grills are ok. I didn't need to grind much off, they fit well and I used ample amounts of hot glue to secure them all around. Mounting speakers and running wiring as per directions was fine.

The real problem came when I had to get through the firewall into the front trunk. The instructions say to locate the large rubber grommet to the left of the battery and to cut an X into it with a utility knife, then fish the wires through with a coat hanger or similar object. Well forget it. The **** grommet is at least 3/4 of an inch thick. I hacked away with knives for an hour. I couldn't get a wire through the thing and was afraid I would cut into the harness. Finally I realized the only way to get through the firewall is to pry out the Grommet from the top with a screwdriver. With the top of the grommet pried slightly out, you can cut a notch about 1/4 inch wide and deep into the top of the grommet. This gives you a small opening, which is big enough to get a coat hanger down and into the passenger compartment and will leave enough room when the grommet is replaced for the speaker wires. You can repeat the process for the second grommet to get the speaker wires into the forward most trunk area.

Hope this helps some other adventurous installer.

[trieullionaire]

I just completed the installation of these speakers in my 2005 987 Boxster. I got them from Euromotorspeed through E-bay. They were quick to ship and came with all that was needed for installation, including detailed instructions. I read many posts, including JJLehman, and it was a big help. In fact it seems that Euromotorspeed has incorporated many of JJlejman's comments into their instructions. Since I have the enhanced audio with the amp in the front trunk, I can add some comments which might help future installers of this product with this configuration.

first, you need every tool mentioned in the instructions and by JJlehman and then some. The biggest pain (or should I say the first pain) is removing the storage boxes. You are supposed to cut the glue off the bottom of the box, but if it is cold, it is like iron. It helps to warm the glue with a hair dryer, then cut it with a very strong utility knife. But be warned, the front wall of the compartment it very thin and fragile. I didn't manage to break it, but it was close. Go slow, it took me 3 hours to dig, cut, scrape and gouge the glue out, especially from the drippings down the sides. I eventually had to cut one of the boxes to pieces using a dremmel drill and took it out in two pieces. Once the boxes are out the instructions for installing the grills are ok. I didn't need to grind much off, they fit well and I used ample amounts of hot glue to secure them all around. Mounting speakers and running wiring as per directions was fine.

The real problem came when I had to get through the firewall into the front trunk. The instructions say to locate the large rubber grommet to the left of the battery and to cut an X into it with a utility knife, then fish the wires through with a coat hanger or similar object. Well forget it. The **** grommet is at least 3/4 of an inch thick. I hacked away with knives for an hour. I couldn't get a wire through the thing and was afraid I would cut into the harness. Finally I realized the only way to get through the firewall is to pry out the Grommet from the top with a screwdriver. With the top of the grommet pried slightly out, you can cut a notch about 1/4 inch wide and deep into the top of the grommet. This gives you a small opening, which is big enough to get a coat hanger down and into the passenger compartment and will leave enough room when the grommet is replaced for the speaker wires. You can repeat the process for the second grommet to get the speaker wires into the forward most trunk area.

Hope this helps some other adventurous installer.

Thank you again for your purchase! We appreciate you leaving comments on the installations on how we can improve the process. We're constantly looking for new ways to make the installation easier, quicker & user friendly. The instructions provided was completed in collaboration with JJLehman. JJLehman has been working with us for the last couple of months to finalized the instructions.

I like to know which grommet you're referring to so that I can make the necessary changes to the instructions? The grommet above the amp or the grommet next to the battery/firewall?

Edited January 13, 2009 by trieullionaire

[quinby1]

I just completed the installation of these speakers in my 2005 987 Boxster. I got them from Euromotorspeed through E-bay. They were quick to ship and came with all that was needed for installation, including detailed instructions. I read many posts, including JJLehman, and it was a big help. In fact it seems that Euromotorspeed has incorporated many of JJlejman's comments into their instructions. Since I have the enhanced audio with the amp in the front trunk, I can add some comments which might help future installers of this product with this configuration.

first, you need every tool mentioned in the instructions and by JJlehman and then some. The biggest pain (or should I say the first pain) is removing the storage boxes. You are supposed to cut the glue off the bottom of the box, but if it is cold, it is like iron. It helps to warm the glue with a hair dryer, then cut it with a very strong utility knife. But be warned, the front wall of the compartment it very thin and fragile. I didn't manage to break it, but it was close. Go slow, it took me 3 hours to dig, cut, scrape and gouge the glue out, especially from the drippings down the sides. I eventually had to cut one of the boxes to pieces using a dremmel drill and took it out in two pieces. Once the boxes are out the instructions for installing the grills are ok. I didn't need to grind much off, they fit well and I used ample amounts of hot glue to secure them all around. Mounting speakers and running wiring as per directions was fine.

The real problem came when I had to get through the firewall into the front trunk. The instructions say to locate the large rubber grommet to the left of the battery and to cut an X into it with a utility knife, then fish the wires through with a coat hanger or similar object. Well forget it. The **** grommet is at least 3/4 of an inch thick. I hacked away with knives for an hour. I couldn't get a wire through the thing and was afraid I would cut into the harness. Finally I realized the only way to get through the firewall is to pry out the Grommet from the top with a screwdriver. With the top of the grommet pried slightly out, you can cut a notch about 1/4 inch wide and deep into the top of the grommet. This gives you a small opening, which is big enough to get a coat hanger down and into the passenger compartment and will leave enough room when the grommet is replaced for the speaker wires. You can repeat the process for the second grommet to get the speaker wires into the forward most trunk area.

Hope this helps some other adventurous installer.

Thank you again for your purchase! We appreciate you leaving comments on the installations on how we can improve the process. We're constantly looking for new ways to make the installation easier, quicker & user friendly. The instructions provided was completed in collaboration with JJLehman. JJLehman has been working with us for the last couple of months to finalized the instructions.

I like to know which grommet you're referring to so that I can make the necessary changes to the instructions? The grommet above the amp or the grommet next to the battery/firewall?

The grommet that is just to the left rear of the battery, the one which comes from the passenger compartment into the front compartment. It carries most of the wires for the front end. It is about 3 inches in diameter. In the 987 it is very thick, about 3/4 of an inch. I spent at least an hour trying to cut and X in it. In fact I ended up digging it up pretty badly with no luck. No matter how deep you try to cut, you can't get through, nor can you fish a coat hanger through it. Then it dawned on me ( you know that cartoon light bulb came on). I just took a large screwdriver and pried the grommet out from the top, just enough to fish the hanger into the cabin and attach the speaker wires and then pull them through. Then just cut a notch in the top edge of the grommet to provide enough room for the wires when the grommet is pushed back into place. I repeated this process for the second grommet with ease. Quinby

[trieullionaire]

I just completed the installation of these speakers in my 2005 987 Boxster. I got them from Euromotorspeed through E-bay. They were quick to ship and came with all that was needed for installation, including detailed instructions. I read many posts, including JJLehman, and it was a big help. In fact it seems that Euromotorspeed has incorporated many of JJlejman's comments into their instructions. Since I have the enhanced audio with the amp in the front trunk, I can add some comments which might help future installers of this product with this configuration.

first, you need every tool mentioned in the instructions and by JJlehman and then some. The biggest pain (or should I say the first pain) is removing the storage boxes. You are supposed to cut the glue off the bottom of the box, but if it is cold, it is like iron. It helps to warm the glue with a hair dryer, then cut it with a very strong utility knife. But be warned, the front wall of the compartment it very thin and fragile. I didn't manage to break it, but it was close. Go slow, it took me 3 hours to dig, cut, scrape and gouge the glue out, especially from the drippings down the sides. I eventually had to cut one of the boxes to pieces using a dremmel drill and took it out in two pieces. Once the boxes are out the instructions for installing the grills are ok. I didn't need to grind much off, they fit well and I used ample amounts of hot glue to secure them all around. Mounting speakers and running wiring as per directions was fine.

The real problem came when I had to get through the firewall into the front trunk. The instructions say to locate the large rubber grommet to the left of the battery and to cut an X into it with a utility knife, then fish the wires through with a coat hanger or similar object. Well forget it. The **** grommet is at least 3/4 of an inch thick. I hacked away with knives for an hour. I couldn't get a wire through the thing and was afraid I would cut into the harness. Finally I realized the only way to get through the firewall is to pry out the Grommet from the top with a screwdriver. With the top of the grommet pried slightly out, you can cut a notch about 1/4 inch wide and deep into the top of the grommet. This gives you a small opening, which is big enough to get a coat hanger down and into the passenger compartment and will leave enough room when the grommet is replaced for the speaker wires. You can repeat the process for the second grommet to get the speaker wires into the forward most trunk area.

Hope this helps some other adventurous installer.

Thank you again for your purchase! We appreciate you leaving comments on the installations on how we can improve the process. We're constantly looking for new ways to make the installation easier, quicker & user friendly. The instructions provided was completed in collaboration with JJLehman. JJLehman has been working with us for the last couple of months to finalized the instructions.

I like to know which grommet you're referring to so that I can make the necessary changes to the instructions? The grommet above the amp or the grommet next to the battery/firewall?

The grommet that is just to the left rear of the battery, the one which comes from the passenger compartment into the front compartment. It carries most of the wires for the front end. It is about 3 inches in diameter. In the 987 it is very thick, about 3/4 of an inch. I spent at least an hour trying to cut and X in it. In fact I ended up digging it up pretty badly with no luck. No matter how deep you try to cut, you can't get through, nor can you fish a coat hanger through it. Then it dawned on me ( you know that cartoon light bulb came on). I just took a large screwdriver and pried the grommet out from the top, just enough to fish the hanger into the cabin and attach the speaker wires and then pull them through. Then just cut a notch in the top edge of the grommet to provide enough room for the wires when the grommet is pushed back into place. I repeated this process for the second grommet with ease. Quinby

Hi Quinby,

Thank you for your quick response, we'll update the instructions over the next couple of days! Enjoy your NEW speakers!!!

Trieullionaire

Euro MotorSpeed

727-643-2207

cvt929@yahoo.com

http://stores.ebay.com/Euromotorspeed

[eddy123]

Another feedback - from the UAE. Shipping these little speakers was not cheap (+100 Bucks) but EuroMotorSpeed was so nice to share the pain a bit, thanks!

I’m having the standard CDR-24 with front speakers.

It took me about five hours to install the rear speakers, with some coffee breaks.

My findings and comments: The provided installation guide is good but I believe too detailed and sometimes it confused me, I will come back to this later. It would have been nice if this installation guide was somewhere available on the internet with bigger pictures and clearer. The pictures in the guide were printed to dark and some too small. Nevertheless they did help me a lot.

Something about these speakers. Don’t expect miracles, it does improve the sound experience but for me it is still under performing so I’m thinking to upgrade with an amplifier or/and maybe a sub. I was a bit surprised that the rear speakers were already manufactured in 1998. This mean they are more than 10 years old. I hope they were stored all these years in a good environment as plastics and rubbers will breakdown over time.

Removing the Storage Compartment. As previous message and guide mention “ to use a towel over the trunk and disconnect the upper snap-in ball end of the tension cable on each corner of the top” This is not really necessary as you can easily remove the compartment from inside with the right twist. Turn the hollow side of the compartment over the roll bars. It was so easy and simple that it took me just one minute to do this.

Removing the storage box “cubby hole” enclosures. At first this was a bit difficult and it took me at least a half hour to remove the first. The second enclosure I did in less than ten minutes. That was because the cutting method didn’t work for me. The easy way to do this is first cut the glue somewhere half way. Push it up and when you have enough grip, just peel it off. It is better when the glue is still hard, don’t heat it!

Installing the speaker grills. The grill probable will not fit but don’t waste your time to exactly try to fit them. I would not take the effort to trim them, it will not make it nicer, especially when you make a mistake. What I did, I used the hand clamps and positioned the grill on one end. Used my glue gun and glued it forever tied. When it was dry I went around the other edges until it was nicely fixed. Ok the grills don’t fit 100% but you won’t see anything from the outside unless you know it. Beside this, the grills are behind your chairs so where to look for them?

Putting the speakers and wires in place. This was an easy job to do and the speaker wire is definitely not too short to run from one to the other compartment as the guide stated that “you will need as much wire as possible when it comes to positioning the other (right side) speaker”. Instead of the Dremel –like tool ,“ to rout out two small spots so the wire can run freely from the left speaker compartment through the right compartment”, I used a solder iron to create a nice clean path. I sealed several points of the wire using the glue gun.

Compartment connector and wiring harness at the roll bar. The hardest part of this installation, well for me then. I removed the carpeted seatbelt cover but I couldn’t get it back due to one fastening point, the little white one, which finally broke. If you can run the speaker wires without removing this trim, leave it where it is. To install the white connector clip in the small middle rectangle don’t use a pair of pliers but just connect it to the connector first, position it and then give it a twist, by hand, to lock it. I didn’t use any of the zip-ties, didn’t see the need of it.

Removing the protective foam under the glove box. Well we don’t have pennies here but a small headed screwdriver will just do fine.

Removing the (Radio) side panels. I don’t think there is a need to use these hook tools to remove them, it was quite easy actually the way I did it. Indeed the top one clip doesn’t give way that easily. The way to do this, just with your hands, so you don’t damage anything. To remove the panel at the passenger side, sit at the driver seat; use your two fingers to clamp the top and one hand on the bottom. Push it a bit up and pull it forwards. Reverse this for the other panel.

Removing the Radio. This was tricky! Why? Because the guide didn’t explain how you should rotate the 2 plastic rotating locks. You must turn these about 60 degrees. If you look to these locks you will find close to it a small lid, which have to come up. You will feel, when turning that there is some resistance.

Shifter. In the guide the writer move the shifter back to give the radio some extra room. Now this might work for a manual shifted 987 but not when yours is fitted with an automatic gear box. This as the manual advises strongly to remove the battery due to airbag sensors. Nevertheless I used a big pillow on top of the shifter and slide out the radio.

Speaker Harness. The most confusing part of this guide and this is where I made a big mistake. Was it me or was the explanation wrong or incomplete? It doesn’t tell me clearly where the plus and minus of the speakers cables are connected. In figure 26 I can clearly see where the yellow speaker cable is connected. So I followed that picture. When testing the sound, I could clearly hear that the right and left front and rear speakers were out of phase. Set your balance all the way to your right or left speakers listen in between. Move your head slowly left and right and you can hear the out of phase effect. Mostly the lower bass tones will not be heard good. So this Figure 26 is WRONG! So what you see at figure 27 is the front view of the connector, so not the side where the cables are coming in.

I had to cut the wires to correct them as I couldn’t remove them anymore. Not a big problem to correct but maybe there are people who mistaken this as well, at least, what I can see on the Figure 26, there is one.

Good Luck!

Eddy

Edited January 26, 2009 by eddy123