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Recommended Posts

Posted

I need to replace my alternator and was looking for a DIY reference here. I have a 2000 996 C2 Tiptronic. I have found several references to a DIY but have not found the actual article. Can someone help?

Thanks

Posted
Hi Granbury,

I recently went through this on my 99 C2. I can offer help, I learnt alot in the process. I have some documents at home I can send you tonight. There are certain things that make the job MUCH easier. The first is realising how to release the alternator once you have access to it.

My thread is here :

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=20598

-James.

Thanks James, appreciate the help. I read your string before. Did you have a big pulley where the bottom alternator bolt goes? I just looked at it this morning and it looks like this pulley bolt lines up with where the bottom of the alternator is. Also, to release the drive belt turn in clockwise direction? Then to return it to tension turn in the same direction? I would assume they would be opposite?

Posted

The tensioner is spring-loaded. When you release the bolt, the pulley will snap back into its original position. A couple quick suggestions from my recent experience with replacing the alternator...

If the top flange is really tight, have a buddy put downward pressure with a blunt chisel (or something like that) on the flange while you wiggle the alternator. That really helped it rotate clockwise to come out.

Have a local auto electric shop rebuild your existing alternator. My cost was $190CDN after taxes and it worked like a charm. The replacement parts of our alternators are generic.

If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine.

Have fun!

Posted
If the alternator was tight coming out, grind a couple thousandths off the rear bushing of the top flange. I took enough off so that it was still snug, but it rotated into place easily. When you tighten the bolt, the bushing will pull in tight to the mount on the engine.

I haven't looked but is the rear bushing designed to move to take up the slack? If so it can be moved backwards to allow more clearance removing the need to grind material off of it.

Posted (edited)

Neil, yes, the rear bushing is designed to move. A gentle tap to the fastening bolt before it is removed (but after loosening a few turns) is all that is required to open up the bushing and make removal easy.

Granbury, I sent you a PM.

Cheers,

-James.

Edited by jamesgood72
Posted

Definitely try tapping it back first. I forgot about that option. I couldn't get it to move and had to resort to brute force.

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