HELP! Changed frame, now stuck with top almost up/closed

[atta]

1999 986

My rear window cracked and I could not find a shop to put in an aftermarket glass roof, so I purchased a used roof and frame from a 2003 model with the oem glass roof. Just swapped it over and tried to close, but stopped (stalled - motor working hard) about 2 inches from closed. I tried to just pull it in and close it with the latch, but when I open it up again it goes back the same 2 inches. Clamshell is completely closes. Now, when I push the button I can tell the motor starts working but nothing happends.

What could be causing this? When I think about it, I think when I put the red rods back in place the top was further back than the original frame.

Atle

ps! I moved over the b-pilar microswitch, but nothing is touching this now so I guess its in use when the top is down and not up?

[atta]

ps! I moved over the b-pilar microswitch, but nothing is touching this now so I guess its in use when the top is down and not up?

Ok, so I checked the old frame and sure enough, its not the same. Even though there is the same provisions for mounting the microswitch there is nothing touching it. I tried pushing it in, and the top started going down. It does not fit or needs asjustmens though, as it would hit the windscreen and not come down properly. I raised it again, and it will not go all the way closed.

Is there a way for me to get out of this other than putting back the old frame? Would a new gear with the new microswitch solve this.. ?

Thanks!

Atle

[pk2]

If your old top was a plastic window It’s a different animal frame wise. At some point they repositioned that micro switch. I think to the other side of the car.

Anyway, find out where, you may be able to cob it into place. If not, see if you can get the switch and any bracket somewhere (wherever you got the top is a good start),

Regards, PK

[atta]

If your old top was a plastic window It’s a different animal frame wise. At some point they repositioned that micro switch. I think to the other side of the car.

Anyway, find out where, you may be able to cob it into place. If not, see if you can get the switch and any bracket somewhere (wherever you got the top is a good start),

Regards, PK

From what I can gather the new switch is located in the new style transmission. So now my questions are:

- How easy is it to just replace the transmissions with the new ones, and

- Is the alignment issue I'm seeing fixable (not going all the way forward, hitting windscreen on the way back, not going all the way back)

I checked the wiring diagrams, and it appear like there is a different setup for both the locked/unlocked switch and the "top closed" switch. I'll get a SmartTOP, and then it looks like I "just" need to re-wire top unlock at the relay base and add the wiring for the transmission switch.

Hate that I did not do my homework when I bought the car and got a MY00... I think my car is a late 99 by the way, so this new setup probably did not happen until MY00.

A.

Edited September 12, 2008 by atta

[atta]

Quick update.

I did as suggested in another thread where someone had a top that was hitting the windframe after having had the frame out of the car: Loosened the six bolts holding the frame, grab the "knuckle" and pushed it up and back while tightening the nuts. It no longer hits the windshield! I simulated the microswitch and it now seems to be working fine. I also loosened one of the wires holding the top down, the ones you pop off going into service mode, to get it to go all the way forward but I think I might tighten it up a bit once everything is working as I suspect its just the top that is a little tight after not having been used for a while.

My battery died on me, so I need to get a booster and have it running again to verify for sure - but I think it is just minor adjustments left if any.

So the frame swap seems to be a success except for the microswitch issue. I hope changing out the gears and relay is not a big job as I have almost used up my wifes goodwill account already. :rolleyes: If anyone know the procedure and parts required that would be a big help.

Oh, and by the way: :renntech:

Atle

Edited September 13, 2008 by atta

[atta]

Hm. Found in the workshop manuals that they changed to the new transmission type in may 1999. Guess My car is an early model 99 then, so with 35 kmiles on it is it likely to see the engine fail soon? :( I just bought the car (imported from the US) ..it was first registered in june 2000, so I figured it was a late model but now it looks like its not after all. :( I paid almost $55 000 for the car, I don't want the engine to fail on me. ($24k from the lot, rest is Norwegian tax and duties).

A.

[1schoir]

Hm. Found in the workshop manuals that they changed to the new transmission type in may 1999. Guess My car is an early model 99 then, so with 35 kmiles on it is it likely to see the engine fail soon? :( I just bought the car (imported from the US) ..it was first registered in june 2000, so I figured it was a late model but now it looks like its not after all. :( I paid almost $55 000 for the car, I don't want the engine to fail on me. ($24k from the lot, rest is Norwegian tax and duties).

A.

A.:

You can make an adjustment that will allow the front edge of the convertible top to get closer to the top of the windshield frame, thus releasing some of the tension from your "overtight" top.

The adjustment is made by lengthening or shortening the pushrods with the "red" plastic ball cups that are attached (popped onto) to the underside of the B-Pillar knuckle.

You can loosen the 10mm nut (the one with the thick washer) and then adjust the length of the pushrod accordingly. Be careful not to overdo it, because at some point in its length it is not a linear progression (i.e., it will get further away from the top edge of the windshield when you expect it to keep getting closer, etc...)

As far as your "B-pillar" microswitch problem, you are correct that Porsche went to the "B Version" transmissions for the convertible tops in mid-1999.

With the "A Version" transmissions, there was a half-moon gear in there. With the "B Version" the large gear is a complete circle.

At that time, the "B-Pillar Microswitch" was moved to the passenger side (right side) transmission.

Replacing the transmissions is very straightforward: One large 19mm bolt that holds down the V-lever on each side, and three 13mm nuts that hold the transmissions to the studs that are mounted onto the rear quarter panel. You will need new type of studs for the new transmissions. Then, of course you have to connect the cables and pop off the plastic ball cups (red on your car) and the black hydraulic pushrods.

I recommend that while you are it, replace those red plastic ball cups with white ones, and keep the reds as spares. There is a guy in Belgium who sells just the plastic ball cups. Porsche only sells the complete push rod assembly. PM me if you want his info.

Regards, Maurice.

[atta]

Hm. Found in the workshop manuals that they changed to the new transmission type in may 1999. Guess My car is an early model 99 then, so with 35 kmiles on it is it likely to see the engine fail soon? :( I just bought the car (imported from the US) ..it was first registered in june 2000, so I figured it was a late model but now it looks like its not after all. :( I paid almost $55 000 for the car, I don't want the engine to fail on me. ($24k from the lot, rest is Norwegian tax and duties).

A.

A.:

You can make an adjustment that will allow the front edge of the convertible top to get closer to the top of the windshield frame, thus releasing some of the tension from your "overtight" top.

The adjustment is made by lengthening or shortening the pushrods with the "red" plastic ball cups that are attached (popped onto) to the underside of the B-Pillar knuckle.

You can loosen the 10mm nut (the one with the thick washer) and then adjust the length of the pushrod accordingly. Be careful not to overdo it, because at some point in its length it is not a linear progression (i.e., it will get further away from the top edge of the windshield when you expect it to keep getting closer, etc...)

As far as your "B-pillar" microswitch problem, you are correct that Porsche went to the "B Version" transmissions for the convertible tops in mid-1999.

With the "A Version" transmissions, there was a half-moon gear in there. With the "B Version" the large gear is a complete circle.

At that time, the "B-Pillar Microswitch" was moved to the passenger side (right side) transmission.

Replacing the transmissions is very straightforward: One large 19mm bolt that holds down the V-lever on each side, and three 13mm nuts that hold the transmissions to the studs that are mounted onto the rear quarter panel. You will need new type of studs for the new transmissions. Then, of course you have to connect the cables and pop off the plastic ball cups (red on your car) and the black hydraulic pushrods.

I recommend that while you are it, replace those red plastic ball cups with white ones, and keep the reds as spares. There is a guy in Belgium who sells just the plastic ball cups. Porsche only sells the complete push rod assembly. PM me if you want his info.

Regards, Maurice.

Thank you Maurice. Appreciate your help.

I already read your previous mention of the Belgium guy selling the plastic cups, so I found him on eBay and ordered a set earlier today. :D

These are the parts that I believe are needed:

- Left transmission : 986 561 179 03

- Right transmission : 986 561 180 03

- Studs / "spacer bolts" : 6 x 986 561 789 01

- Microswitch with support: 986 613 767 01

- new relay and some wiring

Is there anything else I need/should change while I'm at it?

Oh, and I read in the workshop manual that there are two centering screws (regular chassis) on each side of the frame where the bolts are. They were not used on my setup, but it would probably help with alignment as just moving the frame a little bit helped me clear the windshield. I think I might try this if I still have alignment issues. Right now it seems to be coming in a little high, but then again the car is new to me so I don't really remember how it used to be. :)

A.

[1schoir]

Thank you Maurice. Appreciate your help.

I already read your previous mention of the Belgium guy selling the plastic cups, s

[1schoir]

Thank you Maurice. Appreciate your help.

I already read your previous mention of the Belgium guy selling the plastic cups, so I found him on eBay and ordered a set earlier today. :D

These are the parts that I believe are needed:

- Left transmission : 986 561 179 03

- Right transmission : 986 561 180 03

- Studs / "spacer bolts" : 6 x 986 561 789 01

- Microswitch with support: 986 613 767 01

- new relay and some wiring

Is there anything else I need/should change while I'm at it?

Oh, and I read in the workshop manual that there are two centering screws (regular chassis) on each side of the frame where the bolts are. They were not used on my setup, but it would probably help with alignment as just moving the frame a little bit helped me clear the windshield. I think I might try this if I still have alignment issues. Right now it seems to be coming in a little high, but then again the car is new to me so I don't really remember how it used to be. :)

A.

A:

I think you have everything covered.

The only thing I am not sure about is whether your MY '99 still has the microswitch that sits on top of the electric motor housing (center of convertible top well just forward of the third brake light) AND that has the little black lever that gets depressed when the clamshell makes contact with it on the way to sealing the clamshell, or whether yours does not have that little black lever sticking up.

I know that its function, on the early Boxsters where it exists, is to trip the "after running" time of the top so that the light on the dashboard goes out and power to the electric motor is shut off before the V-levers rotate too far and the half moon gears run off past their limit.

Regardless, if yours has it and you keep it intact, it SHOULD work the same way.

Let us know for future reference, in any case.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

[atta]

A:

I think you have everything covered.

The only thing I am not sure about is whether your MY '99 still has the microswitch that sits on top of the electric motor housing (center of convertible top well just forward of the third brake light) AND that has the little black lever that gets depressed when the clamshell makes contact with it on the way to sealing the clamshell, or whether yours does not have that little black lever sticking up.

I know that its function, on the early Boxsters where it exists, is to trip the "after running" time of the top so that the light on the dashboard goes out and power to the electric motor is shut off before the V-levers rotate too far and the half moon gears run off past their limit.

Regardless, if yours has it and you keep it intact, it SHOULD work the same way.

Let us know for future reference, in any case.

Good luck!

Regards, Maurice.

I think the microswitch-part that I mentioned is this switch, so I don't need this as it's not used on the new style (and I already have it). I guess the microswitch is already in the new transmission then? If anyone has any hints to how to hook it up.. One can probably not buy just the plug?

I also found that I would need new cables, as they are 1" longer on the new setup. 2 x 986 561 717 03.

A.