9x7 shifter feel?

[clickman]

I've been toying with the idea of upgrading my '01 5 spd to a short shifter ever since I got the car almost 2 years ago. I've always thought the shifting was something you'd expect in a Rabbit, not a Boxster. But I've always been concerned about overt notchiness and what appeared to be an unreversible install once the bushings were broken out.

This new shifter might be the one for me.

Are those of you that have done it in a 986 happy with it?

Can anyone comment on how "short" the shifts are in comparison to stock at one end and and say the B&M at the other? And also shift effort

Pls let me know if your comments relate to the "standard" shifter (997 424 010 00?) or the "short throw" shifter (997 424 983 00).

Thanks.

Norm

2001 Boxster, Seal Grey, 5 spd

Edited September 9, 2008 by clickman

[rsfeller]

We'll I just did a cheapo-knock off. If you have not seen my rant about the process you can find it on my website:

http://www.carboncow.net/index.php?option=...7&Itemid=85

Since I bought a cheapo and had a fun time installing it my end result could still be far different then those buying $300+ versions.

I would say the shift has been reduced dramatically. I should measure it but I'm at work right now. I am guessing the shift distance has been reduced from 8 inches of travel 4" easily...but it is considerably more "notchy". As much as that notchy had me concerned at first testing it in the garage the concern went away on the road. I believe the feel of the short travel makes up for the notchy concern. My wife didn't complain about it, and that is saying something! She hates any change on our cars...it's always for the worst in her opinion.

Since the shifter from the factory is lacking in feel and travel length...it's a great improvement.

I am quite sure the el-cheapo-knock-off is the exact same shaft length as the B&M, as that is who this stole the design from. I will guess your experience will be the same as mine unless you buy the brand name and skip the modifications I had to make.

[geoff]

I did the original install of a 997 OEM short shifter into my '01 seal grey Boxster (5 speed) and documented it here. At first, it felt like the shift throw was extremely short compared to stock. After about a week or so it felt normal. It is smooth and not notchy and I have been very happy with it. For the first few months I didn't think it was worth it. Now I do, which shows you get used to almost anything and notice the benefits over time. The Porsche short shifter (blue plastic one) I used is easy to shift with one finger most of the time.

If you're installing it yourself, I recommend getting the DVD. I did the install using the B&M instructions, but am sure watching the DVD first would have made the job much easier

[Cassiebox]

I put a B&M in and it's well worth it! :) One tip.... if you plan on "try" someone else's installed SSK (in their car), make sure the car running. With the engine not running it will still feel short but very notch-y which is not the true feeling you get while driving ;)

[clickman]

I did the original install of a 997 OEM short shifter into my '01 seal grey Boxster (5 speed)

Thanks for the reply, geoff. I should have referred to this in my original post, but is the shifter you installed the "standard" or the stock short shifter for the 997/987? (just to confuse things further)

Edit: Never mind, after 2 more seconds work I see in your link that it was the factory short shift kit. I'm curious about the "997 shift console upgrade" PN 99742401000, on this link:

http://e-partssales.com/Merchant2/merchant...ry_Code=986Tran

Edited September 9, 2008 by clickman

[Halo]

clickman, stay tuned. I also made the switch and installed the 997 (99742401000) OEM shifter. It is exactly the same one you have in the link, only I bought mine from Sunset Imports.

I took pictures and measurements to show how much shorter it is than the stock shifter.

I have just been busy upgrading my computer to upload my experience.

kind regards,

Halo

Edited September 10, 2008 by Halo

[Tool Pants]

The shift in the Suncoast link is black plastic so it s the standard 997/987 shift. The blue plastic version is the 997/987 short shift.

If I remember correctly when the 997/987 came out Porsche said the standard shift throws were 15% shorter than the standard 996/986 throws.

[clickman]

Ok so I went to the dealership and tried the shifter in a 987 non-S, with the engine running but not fully warmed up. The throws were definitely shorter than the 986. 15%? I wouldn't have said 25%. (I didn't measure.) But it's still not short enough IMHO.

There was more notchiness, although that might go away some once the tranny is warmed up. Other than the notchiness, the shift effort wasn't noticeably heavier.

So for me the questions now are:

What's the difference between the 986 and 987 short shift kits?

Is there a short shift kit that's "reversible" if I really don't like it?

Thanks.

Edited September 11, 2008 by clickman

[clickman]

clickman, stay tuned. I also made the switch and installed the 997 (99742401000) OEM shifter. It is exactly the same one you have in the link, only I bought mine from Sunset Imports.

I took pictures and measurements to show how much shorter it is than the stock shifter.

I have just been busy upgrading my computer to upload my experience.

kind regards,

Halo

Please, Halo, share ASAP!

[Tool Pants]

Evo has a short shift. It shortens the shift throws by adding an extension piece to the bottom of the stock shift lever. It is shorter than the 997/987 standard shift, but not as short as a B&M. And if you do not like it you can simply remove the extension piece.

This is a picture of the kit. The extension piece is the gold/black thing on the right. The kit comes with 2 red metal bearings to replace the stock plastic bushings, but you do not have to use the bearings. In the old days you had to pay extra for the bearings, but now they are included when you buy the extension.

[Halo]

Clickman, here are the photos of my install.

once you get the console removed (B&M instructions) you will be staring at your shifter assembly.

I marked the cables at the end of each shift link connections.

next, I removed the original assembly and popped out the cables from the sockets.

now it was time to install the new shift assy.

With the "green" shift tool in place snap the cable ends in place.

Note: I had to pull the left cable into place a little to match the marks, they just did not align perfectly with the tool in place. Probably about 3/16 difference.

I should have taken a picture of it (sorry). but it was not difficult.

next , lock the cables into place and test out your shifter before you put everything back together.

Now for the results:

original shifter throw measured from the top of the stick. I measured from this point of reference because thats where the shift know would located in your hand. (2nd and 4th)

Here is the difference. Again measured from the top of the stick. FYI, the stick was in the same position clamped to the hand brake.

The "black" lines are the original, the "blue" lines are the new shifter.

Now, was it worth it for $161.00, I think so. I did not want to do the shift kit and it was way eaiser and less expensive.

I also like the way it shifts, not that much play in the throws. it goes into 1st a little eaiser on the downshift for me.

one last thing, it doesn't wiggle that much in netural either.

Have fun,

Halo

Edited September 12, 2008 by Halo

[clickman]

Evo has a short shift. It shortens the shift throws by adding an extension piece to the bottom of the stock shift lever. It is shorter than the 997/987 standard shift, but not as short as a B&M.

Hi TP, thanks for the suggestion. I checked it out on the Pelican site (and one other): the Evo "Swift Shift" claims a 20-30% shorter throw. The stock 9x7 shifter is basically the same, at 25%, based on the measurements Halo made.

It seems like the only way to find out is try one. If I do install a SSK, are the bushings that come with it able to be used on the stock shifter if I want to go back?

Thanks

[Tool Pants]

If you are talking about the EVO unit then you would install just the extention piece. It attaches with set screws so you can take it off if you don't like it. If you like it and want to install the bearing that come with the kit then you have to break/remove the oem white plastic bushings. The EVO bearings fit the oem shift lever.

As I said, in the old days the kit only had the extension piece. And that is all we put in, unless the owner also purchased the optional bearings. Picture shows the bearings installed on the oem shift Back then they were silver - now red. You cannot see the extension piece in the picture.

[ekam]

If anyone actually go on the Porsche website it actually says this as one of the new features.

"Is there anything that feels as right as executing a gear change in a Porsche Boxster? It’s a feeling engineered in the Boxster to jumpstart your pulse rate each time your right hand makes its move. Rapid gearshifts on both models are achieved with a short-throw mechanism offering a 26% (five-speed) and 15% (six-speed) reduction in gear-lever travel from that of previous models."

[clickman]

If you are talking about the EVO unit

As usual I should have been more clear. I was actually wondering if the bushings that come with the shortest shift kit, say the B&M, fit the stock shifter.

Thanks.

[Tool Pants]

I have a 2005 987 brochure that I just looked at and it says 15/26%. Did not remember the 26%. Back then I thought it was due to a change in the transmission - since Porsche did make changes to the 987 transmission, and went to Aisin for the 997. Never dawned on me back then that Porsche simply put in a semi-short shift as standard.

I like what Halo did. That is similar as to how I measure up the claims. The greatest reduction that I have seen with a B&M was on a 5 speed Boxster.

Clickman, sorry but I can't figure out what it is you want to do. There are many short shift versions these days.

[sb01box]

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

[Loren]

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that).

[sb01box]

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that).

shift is precise and no functional problem. so should I just leave it as is?

[Loren]

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

You can never go wrong if mark the cables or count the threads and then put them back where they came from. (Unless, of course, it was not adjusted correctly in the first place -- but you would notice that).

shift is precise and no functional problem. so should I just leave it as is?

Yes.

[atta]

I just installed 997-424-010 shifter into my 01 5 speed boxster. in reading this thread, I deviated in the installation of the left cable.

I did mark the cable end/adjuster before removing my old shifter. but when it came time to re-attach the cable to the new shifter's adjuster, I did not pull on the cable to re-algn the mark as stated in Halo's description/photo instruction. I figure that the cables being attached to the transmission is at it's desired location; neutral (fore/aft) and at the 3-4 gear selection (side to side). Also assumed that the green tool that comes attached to the shift lever is holding the shifter at center.

should I have pulled the left cable up to the originally marked spot?

Make sure you put the alignment tool on the right way as it can go on from both sides and gives different results. I marked the cables and used the tool (just in case) and did not have to pull any cables. When I think back I might have pulled just a little on the right one, but just a little - and by hand.

Put the tool on from the right side, so that the opening is to the left. Also; it's a different alignment tool when using the standard 9x7 shifter from the SS. I think my tool was white. SS one is green.

Atle

[Halo]

If it shifts fine, then just leave it alone.

I reported having to pull the cable a little because that was my experience.

aligning the cable marks seems to have to work for others so that is what I went with. (lessons learned)

I was also going to realign it with the green tool in place just for fun but why bother, it works.

After getting adjusted to the new throws, I really like it more and more.

Halo

Edited September 29, 2008 by Halo

[sb01box]

If it shifts fine, then just leave it alone.

I reported having to pull the cable a little because that was my experience.

aligning the cable marks seems to have to work for others so that is what I went with. (lessons learned)

I was also going to realign it with the green tool in place just for fun but why bother, it works.

After getting adjusted to the new throws, I really like it more and more.

Halo

The green alignment tool was positioned with the opening towards the left per ATTA’s posting.

Little more description of my installation thinking - not restoring cable to adjuster at the marked points.

I assume that the tool kept the lever at the center, both fore/back and left/right such that equal tilt equal travel; simple trig. If you pull the cable align marks, then with the tool removed, the shift lever would have an offset , left/right or front/back depending on which cable was pulled or pushed..

This offset will induce unequal throw from neutral position, nominal 3-4 gate (5 speed) to gears. Throw to 1st may be longer than throw from neutral to 2nd. Similarly for left/right gates.

[Halo]

SB01box,

I aligned the cables with the tool in place. The green tool was already in place when I opened the box.

I left it in that postion (opening towards left). A little pull, not much, was used to align marks to original position with green tool in place.

I don't notice any longer throws from either gate as pictures indicate. 1st -2nd or 3rd - 4th are the same 5th and reverse, who cares?

kind regards,

Halo

[sb01box]

SB01box,

I aligned the cables with the tool in place. The green tool was already in place when I opened the box.

I left it in that postion (opening towards left). A little pull, not much, was used to align marks to original position with green tool in place.

I don't notice any longer throws from either gate as pictures indicate. 1st -2nd or 3rd - 4th are the same 5th and reverse, who cares?

kind regards,

Halo

for my installation, the right cable fell right in place at the mark. the left cable was about 1/4 inch short. but i left it so.

as for my rationale, simple trig equation and did not verified it by inducing gross offset. In reading this and other threads, i did not want to deviate from the norm, but when i encountered this 1/4 inch difference, i chose to not pull the cable.